Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


James_Douglas last won the day on February 21 2016

James_Douglas had the most liked content!


About James_Douglas

  • Rank
    Guru, have been a long time contributor

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • Biography
    I am just a geek who likes old cars. We drive a 1947 Desoto Suburban as our daily driver.
  • Occupation

Profile Information

  • My Project Cars


  • Location
    San Francisco
  • Interests
    Planes, Trains, and Automobiles

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. James_Douglas

    Rack and pinion steering for 46 Plymouth

    I would love to use a R&P in the Desoto next year when I start working on it. But, non of the usual suspects has a rack that is designed to take the load of a 4500 pound car. I talked to all the rack makers an they have nothing for a car over 4000. James
  2. James_Douglas

    New Project - '52 Suburban - Some Parts by Craigslist

    I REALLY would like to know how the wilcap conversion works out. I am planning on that for a 265 I want to rebuild for my '47 Desoto. James.
  3. James_Douglas

    265 Blown Head Gasket

    There is no way I would run a flathead without taking out and inspecting (replacing if necessary) the heat distribution tube.
  4. James_Douglas

    Question: Axle supplier...

    I just got an answer via email from a friend. It was Vintage Auto Parts of Denver (www.vapinc.com). They and their parant company looks like it is dead. No website no nothing. I wish I know who they sold their stock to. James. PS. Web master, you may want to remove them from the links list as it is dead.
  5. James_Douglas

    Question: Axle supplier...

    Hi all, Getting old. I purchased an Axle from a supplier about 6 years ago. Now for the life of me, I cannot remember their name. The had a website that had multiple marquees. They had a ton of axles and also some expensive NOS carburetors. I cannot find the link in my list of links and I just cannot remember the name. Anyone have any idea of whom I am talking about? I thought it had the word vintage or obsolete in it, but searching on that came up empty. Thanks, James.
  6. James_Douglas

    Dual Carbs on 218

    One thing to keep in mind is if you are running a n M6 or a BW-OD then the Pentronix requires some wiring changes and resistors and ....
  7. James_Douglas

    What is the limiting factor on mopar flathead rpm?

    Special rod bolts on the 265 to clear the block. I talked with ARP and they said they can make them. I have not asked how much yet. I will be building a 265 over the next year or so. James.
  8. James_Douglas

    Want to get my steering box rebuilt

    I second that. The gear is hour glass shaped. It is designed so that as it wears one can take up the clearance at the center and when on turns it will not bind. If it is tight on the turns then it is very likely that someone who did not know what they were doing adjusted it too tight. As an aside, tire size makes a BIG difference in steering effort. What I changed the Desoto Suburban to the Yokohama R700-15 tires it felt like I added power steering to the car. Those tires have the same contact patch as the factory tires. The other thing is thick oil grease does nothing and will actually cause wear as the grease cannot get deep into the worm bearings and races. Use factory specified lubricant. I would recommend pulling the box out. Replace the bushing on the sector (output) shaft as the are almost always worn out. Also, but in a new seal so the prescribed oil does not run out. Usually the worm gear bearings are ok, but, their pre-load is determined by paper shims on the end plate. You can get an old hand pull scale on ebay if you look around. Then follow the Service Manual, or look at the booklet on the Imperial Website (http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/028/index.htm), and set the worm gear and sector shaft as they tell you to. I suspect that a good cleaning, the work I stated above, and careful attention to detail and the thing will be good for another 100K miles. James.
  9. James_Douglas

    OD usage - and yes I am not getting my brain around it

    I had George's wiring in my case and I took it off. I did not feel the need to have the toggle switch. Since the Desoto Suburban is so heavy, I always have to kick it out of OD when heading up a hill. I just floor it to kick it out and then back off the throttle a little and it stays out unless I take my foot completely off the throttle again. As to the switch in the engine bay...I made a bracket, that used one of the drivers side threaded holes in the cylinder head, to mount the switch. I then made up a linkage arm that had a steel arm to activate the switch. This was much "cleaner" for me than using it on the carburetor and gave me a good granular adjustment.
  10. James_Douglas

    Got my 413 Flathead Delivered Today

    Thank you very much for posting the photos and sharing your knowledge on this subject. I need to go take a look at my friends spare flathead 8 with the casting (raised) word special on it. If memory serves me correct, that engine has steel tubes, like the one in your photo, going to EACH lifter bore hole thus providing pressure oil to each bore. I am assuming that they are mechanical lifters but he has never had it apart. I will take a photo of it in the next few days and if it looks like I suspect, I will post it. I am wondering if I could round pressure oil to each bore and use a roller hydraulic lifter? My concern would be too much oil pressure loss out of the lifters. James.
  11. James_Douglas

    Got my 413 Flathead Delivered Today

    I would love to see a photo of both a hydraulic lifter and a photo of how they "feed" it in the block. I have a friend that purchased a spare 8 cylinder L-Head for his 1946 Chrysler. That block, with RAISED CAST lettering has the world "special" nobody has ever figured out what that special means. The one thing that I noted and it may be that all the eights have it, I don't know, is steel inverted flare tubing feeding all of the lifter bores. I do not know if that was just to add pressure oil to the mechanical lifters or if there is something like hydraulic lifters in there. The engine has never been taken apart. I am curious as to how they did the hydraulic lifters as I would like to modify my 265 block to use them. Any photos would be appreciated. James.
  12. James_Douglas

    Anyone got transmission crossmember photos?

    http://wilcap.com/webdoc8.html They have the GM adaptor plate set up. I just ran across a IND 265 and purchased it. It turns, assuming it looks good on tear down, I will use it in my big Desoto. We looked at all the ways to get a 4000-5000 pound classic car to have a modern engine in it and the steering issues basically means that the entire front end would have to go. Even at that there is nobody making a power rack or an electric power assist for cars over 4500 pounds... So, we are going to build the following: 1. 265 with holly 2 bbl throttle fuel injection, and cam from Earl, cast iron headers, and the like. 2. GM overdrive automatic using Wilcap adaptor. 3. Don Smiths solution on the Desoto Suburban and use a late 1960's Pontiac Station wagon power steering (This works for the large wheelbase cars not the regular size cars). 4. A set of custom built DC motors that will electrically drive the power steering pump and the AC compressor. 5. Convert to 12 volt neg and use a 100AMP alternator to drive the above. We will not get to this for about a year. If you move ahead with the GM transmission let me know as I would be interested in how it goes. James.
  13. James_Douglas

    Flathead Production date (industrial block) from serial number ?

    Can anyone tell me how to ID the date of a 265 Industrial motor? I could not find anything on the block that would ID it by date. I just have the serial number on the block and plate on the side. James.
  14. James_Douglas

    Fluid Drive fluid, what is available in today's oils?

    *************************************** Fluid Drive Fluid Tech Note ************************* Technical Note on MOPAR Fluid Couplings (Fluid Torque Couplings are NOT covered by this Technical Note. Copy/Publish at will so long as you copy the entire note.) By James Douglas – San Francisco Having run several types of oil in MOPAR “Fluid Couplings” over the years and heard many recommendations, I decided to see if I could approach the issue of what lubricant to use in one of MOPAR’s Fluid Couplings by a more scientific method. As is well known, Chrysler instructed all owners to use “MOPAR Fluid Drive Fluid” only in their FluidCouplings. Problem is, MOPAR stopped making it decades ago. My first stop was Chrysler Historical. After a month of looking, I was told that they do not have any of the original engineering information as to the specifications of the fluid. Then I headed off into internet land to hunt down anything I could find on the subject from ORIGINAL sources. I managed to find an original Chrysler Question and Answer sheet from 1939 about fluid drive from Chrysler Engineering. In it they stated: “…The proper fluid is a low viscosity mineral oil, which also servers to lubricate the bearing enclosed in the coupling. The pour point is such that the oil will pour at the lowest anticipated temperature, and has no corrosive effect on the steel parts of the unit.” All well and nice, but not enough to figure out exactly what they used as fluid. Later in the same document they talk about the types of metal used and the carbon-graphite seal. Hum, carbon-graphite seal. I did some more digging for a few months and turned up a can of unopened original MOPAR Fluid Drive Oil. An analysis of that oil, and some more literature I ran across, stated that the original fluid was a pure-base mineral oil with a Saybolt Viscosity of between 100 and 150. The fluid had a Viscosity Index of greater than 80. The fluid had anti-foaming and anti-oxidation additives. It specifically did NOT have any seal swelling agents as these can attack the carbon-graphite seal and the copper in the bellows. This last specification eliminates most modern transmission fluids. After finding several formulas to convert Saybolt Viscosities to Kinematic Viscosities, it appears that the best match to the original specification is ISO 22 or ISO 32 oil. However, the ISO 22 is just below 100 Saybolt and the ISO 32 is much higher than 100 Saybolt. Based on a period (c.1947) Lubrication Industry article on fluid couplings that had the following admonishment: “Contrary to popular supposition any attempt to use a higher viscosity fluid would actually reduce the torque transmitting ability of the coupling since torque-transmission is dependent upon a high circulation of fluid between the impeller and runner and is not caused by any viscous drag between the two.” During my continued research on the history of the Fluid Coupling, I ran across the fact that the original company that licensed the fluid coupling technology to Chrysler is still in business and still making fluidcouplings for industrial applications. After a couple of weeks of digging, I found a senior engineer from that company that would have a long technical talk with me on fluid couplings. In essence, he agreed with the period information I quoted above. He added that the lowest viscosity oil that would still provide for bearing lubrication is the one to use in theory. However, he did say that unless the fluid coupling bearing has been replaced and is know to be very high quality then err on the heavy side viscosity wise. Just don’t over do it, he stated. I was also told that normal hydraulic fluid does not have large amounts of anti-foaming agents in them as they usually do not have large amounts of air in the systems to foam in the first place. A fluid coupling is only filled to 80% and as such has lots of air in it. Therefore, when looking for fluid coupling oil, one must look for an oil that is a “Circulating Oil” which has a lot of anti-foaming additives in it. I was also informed that the additives tend to have a shelf life in the can, or in use, of 5 to 7 years and it should be changed at that time. I was also told that the couplings are actually somewhat permeable and water vapor will work its way into and then back out, when hot, of a steel fluid coupling. Very little amounts, but apparently is does go on. I was also told to never use engine oil or ATF as both would cause problems in the long run. Based on the research and discussions I have come to the conclusion that ISO 32 hydraulic oil with the proper additives and VI (Viscosity Index) above 80 is a suitable replacement for the original MOPAR fluid drivefluid. ISO 22 would be a better exact match, but only if the quality and condition of the bearing is know in a particular coupling. The oil I have identified that meets the specification, with a higher general viscosity to deal with the age of the bearings, is: Mobile DTE light circulating oil ISO 32. This oil is available at Granger. I have run this oil for about six months in San Francisco city traffic as well as up steep mountains on very hot days. The coupling works well. I have noticed, and other car people have as well, that the car seems to move out from a dead stop to 10 MPH better with the fluid. Only a before and after session on a dynamometer would tell for sure, but I feel that it moves out much faster. Classic car owners are advised to use this information at their own risk. I am not a fluid coupling engineer, a bearing engineer, or a lubrication engineer. I have done my best to find out what was in the original MOPAR Fluid Drive Fluid. This effort is in essence industrial archeology and should be carefully considered prior to use. As a post scrip in 2014. I ran across and old Gyrol book that talks about the filling of the fluid couplings. In short, how much you fill it affects the torque-stall curve. Chrysler set that by the position of the hole in the bell housing. However, if one is to fill it a little less or a little more one can change the curve. Do so at you own risk and never fill it past 90% so it has air in it to compress less you blow the thing up!. James Douglas San Francisco
  15. Hi All, Is there a way to ID the year of a IND-265 industrial block from the serial number (13909C) ? Thanks, James

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use