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James_Douglas

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James_Douglas last won the day on February 21 2016

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About James_Douglas

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    Guru, have been a long time contributor

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    http://www.dacoglu.com/cars.htm
  • Biography
    I am just a geek who likes old cars. We drive a 1947 Desoto Suburban as our daily driver.
  • Occupation
    Technology

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    None

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  • Location
    San Francisco
  • Interests
    Planes, Trains, and Automobiles

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  1. James_Douglas

    Got my 413 Flathead Delivered Today

    Thank you very much for posting the photos and sharing your knowledge on this subject. I need to go take a look at my friends spare flathead 8 with the casting (raised) word special on it. If memory serves me correct, that engine has steel tubes, like the one in your photo, going to EACH lifter bore hole thus providing pressure oil to each bore. I am assuming that they are mechanical lifters but he has never had it apart. I will take a photo of it in the next few days and if it looks like I suspect, I will post it. I am wondering if I could round pressure oil to each bore and use a roller hydraulic lifter? My concern would be too much oil pressure loss out of the lifters. James.
  2. James_Douglas

    Got my 413 Flathead Delivered Today

    I would love to see a photo of both a hydraulic lifter and a photo of how they "feed" it in the block. I have a friend that purchased a spare 8 cylinder L-Head for his 1946 Chrysler. That block, with RAISED CAST lettering has the world "special" nobody has ever figured out what that special means. The one thing that I noted and it may be that all the eights have it, I don't know, is steel inverted flare tubing feeding all of the lifter bores. I do not know if that was just to add pressure oil to the mechanical lifters or if there is something like hydraulic lifters in there. The engine has never been taken apart. I am curious as to how they did the hydraulic lifters as I would like to modify my 265 block to use them. Any photos would be appreciated. James.
  3. James_Douglas

    Anyone got transmission crossmember photos?

    http://wilcap.com/webdoc8.html They have the GM adaptor plate set up. I just ran across a IND 265 and purchased it. It turns, assuming it looks good on tear down, I will use it in my big Desoto. We looked at all the ways to get a 4000-5000 pound classic car to have a modern engine in it and the steering issues basically means that the entire front end would have to go. Even at that there is nobody making a power rack or an electric power assist for cars over 4500 pounds... So, we are going to build the following: 1. 265 with holly 2 bbl throttle fuel injection, and cam from Earl, cast iron headers, and the like. 2. GM overdrive automatic using Wilcap adaptor. 3. Don Smiths solution on the Desoto Suburban and use a late 1960's Pontiac Station wagon power steering (This works for the large wheelbase cars not the regular size cars). 4. A set of custom built DC motors that will electrically drive the power steering pump and the AC compressor. 5. Convert to 12 volt neg and use a 100AMP alternator to drive the above. We will not get to this for about a year. If you move ahead with the GM transmission let me know as I would be interested in how it goes. James.
  4. James_Douglas

    Flathead Production date (industrial block) from serial number ?

    Can anyone tell me how to ID the date of a 265 Industrial motor? I could not find anything on the block that would ID it by date. I just have the serial number on the block and plate on the side. James.
  5. James_Douglas

    Fluid Drive fluid, what is available in today's oils?

    *************************************** Fluid Drive Fluid Tech Note ************************* Technical Note on MOPAR Fluid Couplings (Fluid Torque Couplings are NOT covered by this Technical Note. Copy/Publish at will so long as you copy the entire note.) By James Douglas – San Francisco Having run several types of oil in MOPAR “Fluid Couplings” over the years and heard many recommendations, I decided to see if I could approach the issue of what lubricant to use in one of MOPAR’s Fluid Couplings by a more scientific method. As is well known, Chrysler instructed all owners to use “MOPAR Fluid Drive Fluid” only in their FluidCouplings. Problem is, MOPAR stopped making it decades ago. My first stop was Chrysler Historical. After a month of looking, I was told that they do not have any of the original engineering information as to the specifications of the fluid. Then I headed off into internet land to hunt down anything I could find on the subject from ORIGINAL sources. I managed to find an original Chrysler Question and Answer sheet from 1939 about fluid drive from Chrysler Engineering. In it they stated: “…The proper fluid is a low viscosity mineral oil, which also servers to lubricate the bearing enclosed in the coupling. The pour point is such that the oil will pour at the lowest anticipated temperature, and has no corrosive effect on the steel parts of the unit.” All well and nice, but not enough to figure out exactly what they used as fluid. Later in the same document they talk about the types of metal used and the carbon-graphite seal. Hum, carbon-graphite seal. I did some more digging for a few months and turned up a can of unopened original MOPAR Fluid Drive Oil. An analysis of that oil, and some more literature I ran across, stated that the original fluid was a pure-base mineral oil with a Saybolt Viscosity of between 100 and 150. The fluid had a Viscosity Index of greater than 80. The fluid had anti-foaming and anti-oxidation additives. It specifically did NOT have any seal swelling agents as these can attack the carbon-graphite seal and the copper in the bellows. This last specification eliminates most modern transmission fluids. After finding several formulas to convert Saybolt Viscosities to Kinematic Viscosities, it appears that the best match to the original specification is ISO 22 or ISO 32 oil. However, the ISO 22 is just below 100 Saybolt and the ISO 32 is much higher than 100 Saybolt. Based on a period (c.1947) Lubrication Industry article on fluid couplings that had the following admonishment: “Contrary to popular supposition any attempt to use a higher viscosity fluid would actually reduce the torque transmitting ability of the coupling since torque-transmission is dependent upon a high circulation of fluid between the impeller and runner and is not caused by any viscous drag between the two.” During my continued research on the history of the Fluid Coupling, I ran across the fact that the original company that licensed the fluid coupling technology to Chrysler is still in business and still making fluidcouplings for industrial applications. After a couple of weeks of digging, I found a senior engineer from that company that would have a long technical talk with me on fluid couplings. In essence, he agreed with the period information I quoted above. He added that the lowest viscosity oil that would still provide for bearing lubrication is the one to use in theory. However, he did say that unless the fluid coupling bearing has been replaced and is know to be very high quality then err on the heavy side viscosity wise. Just don’t over do it, he stated. I was also told that normal hydraulic fluid does not have large amounts of anti-foaming agents in them as they usually do not have large amounts of air in the systems to foam in the first place. A fluid coupling is only filled to 80% and as such has lots of air in it. Therefore, when looking for fluid coupling oil, one must look for an oil that is a “Circulating Oil” which has a lot of anti-foaming additives in it. I was also informed that the additives tend to have a shelf life in the can, or in use, of 5 to 7 years and it should be changed at that time. I was also told that the couplings are actually somewhat permeable and water vapor will work its way into and then back out, when hot, of a steel fluid coupling. Very little amounts, but apparently is does go on. I was also told to never use engine oil or ATF as both would cause problems in the long run. Based on the research and discussions I have come to the conclusion that ISO 32 hydraulic oil with the proper additives and VI (Viscosity Index) above 80 is a suitable replacement for the original MOPAR fluid drivefluid. ISO 22 would be a better exact match, but only if the quality and condition of the bearing is know in a particular coupling. The oil I have identified that meets the specification, with a higher general viscosity to deal with the age of the bearings, is: Mobile DTE light circulating oil ISO 32. This oil is available at Granger. I have run this oil for about six months in San Francisco city traffic as well as up steep mountains on very hot days. The coupling works well. I have noticed, and other car people have as well, that the car seems to move out from a dead stop to 10 MPH better with the fluid. Only a before and after session on a dynamometer would tell for sure, but I feel that it moves out much faster. Classic car owners are advised to use this information at their own risk. I am not a fluid coupling engineer, a bearing engineer, or a lubrication engineer. I have done my best to find out what was in the original MOPAR Fluid Drive Fluid. This effort is in essence industrial archeology and should be carefully considered prior to use. As a post scrip in 2014. I ran across and old Gyrol book that talks about the filling of the fluid couplings. In short, how much you fill it affects the torque-stall curve. Chrysler set that by the position of the hole in the bell housing. However, if one is to fill it a little less or a little more one can change the curve. Do so at you own risk and never fill it past 90% so it has air in it to compress less you blow the thing up!. James Douglas San Francisco
  6. Hi All, Is there a way to ID the year of a IND-265 industrial block from the serial number (13909C) ? Thanks, James
  7. James_Douglas

    Generator vs. Voltage regulator problems

    If anyone is using a Optima battery and has odd problems with charging over time, go look at the archives on the subject from me. Some Autolite voltage regulators do not work with generators and optima batteries. James.
  8. James_Douglas

    Fuel Sending Unit Erratic

    I have had erratic reading on NOS senders. Fill a bucket with gas and stick it in and test it. I had one that read off on the bench but worked fine when submerged...
  9. James_Douglas

    Engine Number in the title?

    I can tell you that my 1949 Desoto, first sold in Virginia and then moved to California in about 1955, had the VIN number on the drivers door listed on the Virginia paperwork but the engine number on the California paperwork. Also, the number is stamped on the frame mid frame and NOT over the wheel arch. When I restored the 1949 Desoto a few years ago, I filled out the paperwork to change the Pink Slip and registration slip to have the car VIN and not the engine number on all the paperwork. If you Deck The Block on one of these engines the engine number will be obliterated. James.
  10. James_Douglas

    Has anyone ever had to deal with a aggressive neighbor?

    I can tell you that this is not always true. Living in the middle of San Francisco in a residential, high density, neighborhood, I have had less hassle with the neighbors than most of my friends in the suburbs or small towns here in California. In particular when it comes to working on my cars.
  11. James_Douglas

    water tube question

    I always flare mine to fit the block. More important is to look at the plate at the back of the water pump. It is most times so far off that it is not a good match at all. I "port match" the back of the water pump to the block so that flow will not have turbulence and most of the water will go into the tube. I even had my machine shop jet cut me a few stainless steel plates for the water pumps. It is amazing how after only 5 or 6 years the back plates start to degrade inside the water pump.
  12. James_Douglas

    Fluid Drive Stalling

    Hello, I would recommend that you sit down and read a copy of my post of many years ago. The fluid couplings work by the velocity of the fluid pushing the internal fins. They do not work passed on any pressure or on the viscosity of the oil. Also, if you do not have a dashpot in working order the car will stall often when coming off of a stop sign. In addition to all of that, I ran across a Chrysler tech note that said that a fluid coupling should not be left engaged for longer than 5 minutes at idle. So, if you are stuck in a traffic jam, put it in neutral until the traffic starts to move. *************** Technical Note on MOPAR Fluid Couplings (Fluid Torque Couplings are NOT covered by this Technical Note. Copy/Publish at will so long as you copy the entire note.) By James Douglas – San Francisco Having run several types of oil in MOPAR “Fluid Couplings” over the years and heard many recommendations, I decided to see if I could approach the issue of what lubricant to use in one of MOPAR’s Fluid Couplings by a more scientific method. As is well known, Chrysler instructed all owners to use “MOPAR Fluid Drive Fluid” only in their Fluid Couplings. Problem is, MOPAR stopped making it decades ago. My first stop was Chrysler Historical. After a month of looking, I was told that they do not have any of the original engineering information as to the specifications of the fluid. Then I headed off into internet land to hunt down anything I could find on the subject from ORIGINAL sources. I managed to find an original Chrysler Question and Answer sheet from 1939 about fluid drive from Chrysler Engineering. In it they stated: “…The proper fluid is a low viscosity mineral oil, which also servers to lubricate the bearing enclosed in the coupling. The pour point is such that the oil will pour at the lowest anticipated temperature, and has no corrosive effect on the steel parts of the unit.” All well and nice, but not enough to figure out exactly what they used as fluid. Later in the same document they talk about the types of metal used and the carbon-graphite seal. Hum, carbon-graphite seal. I did some more digging for a few months and turned up a can of unopened original MOPAR Fluid Drive Oil. An analysis of that oil, and some more literature I ran across, stated that the original fluid was a pure-base mineral oil with a Saybolt Viscosity of between 100 and 150. The fluid had a Viscosity Index of greater than 80. The fluid had anti-foaming and anti-oxidation additives. It specifically did NOT have any seal swelling agents as these can attack the carbon-graphite seal and the copper in the bellows. This last specification eliminates most modern transmission fluids. After finding several formulas to convert Saybolt Viscosities to Kinematic Viscosities, it appears that the best match to the original specification is ISO 22 or ISO 32 oil. However, the ISO 22 is just below 100 Saybolt and the ISO 32 is much higher than 100 Saybolt. Based on a period (c.1947) Lubrication Industry article on fluid couplings that had the following admonishment: “Contrary to popular supposition any attempt to use a higher viscosity fluid would actually reduce the torque transmitting ability of the coupling since torque-transmission is dependent upon a high circulation of fluid between the impeller and runner and is not caused by any viscous drag between the two.” During my continued research on the history of the Fluid Coupling, I ran across the fact that the original company that licensed the fluid coupling technology to Chrysler is still in business and still making fluid couplings for industrial applications. After a couple of weeks of digging, I found a senior engineer from that company that would have a long technical talk with me on fluid couplings. In essence, he agreed with the period information I quoted above. He added that the lowest viscosity oil that would still provide for bearing lubrication is the one to use in theory. However, he did say that unless the fluid coupling bearing has been replaced and is know to be very high quality then err on the heavy side viscosity wise. Just don’t over do it, he stated. I was also told that normal hydraulic fluid does not have large amounts of anti-foaming agents in them as they usually do not have large amounts of air in the systems to foam in the first place. A fluid coupling is only filled to 80% and as such has lots of air in it. Therefore, when looking for fluid coupling oil, one must look for an oil that is a “Circulating Oil” which has a lot of anti-foaming additives in it. I was also informed that the additives tend to have a shelf life in the can, or in use, of 5 to 7 years and it should be changed at that time. I was also told that the couplings are actually somewhat permeable and water vapor will work its way into and then back out, when hot, of a steel fluid coupling. Very little amounts, but apparently is does go on. I was also told to never use engine oil or ATF as both would cause problems in the long run. Based on the research and discussions I have come to the conclusion that ISO 32 hydraulic oil with the proper additives and VI (Viscosity Index) above 80 is a suitable replacement for the original MOPAR fluid drive fluid. ISO 22 would be a better exact match, but only if the quality and condition of the bearing is know in a particular coupling. The oil I have identified that meets the specification, with a higher general viscosity to deal with the age of the bearings, is: Mobile DTE light circulating oil ISO 32. This oil is available at Granger. I have run this oil for about six months in San Francisco city traffic as well as up steep mountains on very hot days. The coupling works well. I have noticed, and other car people have as well, that the car seems to move out from a dead stop to 10 MPH better with the fluid. Only a before and after session on a dynamometer would tell for sure, but I feel that it moves out much faster. Classic car owners are advised to use this information at their own risk. I am not a fluid coupling engineer, a bearing engineer, or a lubrication engineer. I have done my best to find out what was in the original MOPAR Fluid Drive Fluid. This effort is in essence industrial archeology and should be carefully considered prior to use. As a post scrip in 2014. I ran across and old Gyrol book that talks about the filling of the fluid couplings. In short, how much you fill it affects the torque-stall curve. Chrysler set that by the position of the hole in the bell housing. However, if one is to fill it a little less or a little more one can change the curve. Do so at you own risk and never fill it past 90% so it has air in it to compress less you blow the thing up!. James Douglas San Francisco
  13. James_Douglas

    Question: Bellhousing Profile

    I may have run across a bell housing and flex plate off of a tug that has a Plymouth engine on it. I want the bell housing and plate to put an automatic in my car. James.
  14. James_Douglas

    53 NEW YORKER BRAKE BOOSTER

    That booster is a bitch to rebuild. I have two in a box that I took apart and was going to use on my 1949. The main valve in it is aluminum and it turns to crud. Part are very hard to get and several of the rebuilding houses would not touch it. The one that did wanted a small fortune to do it. So, all the parts sit in a box. James.
  15. James_Douglas

    Question: Bellhousing Profile

    Hi All, Is the rear of the smaller Plymouth-Dodge 230 engine the same as the larger Chrysler-Desoto 251 engine as to bell housing pattern? Do the transmissions bolt right up and can be swapped between them? Thanks, James
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