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About BobB

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    Family, work, and driving my new truck.
  • My Project Cars
    1952 B3B Pilothouse and a 1939-47 job rated 1-ton - year to be determined

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Bought a '52 B3B five window in March 2013 after wanting a pilot house for 35 years
  • Occupation
    Aerospace Engineer


  • Location
    North Alabama
  • Interests
    Family, old trucks

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. Another thing to check since it is what took mine out: the bolt that holds the points in place can loosen allowing the points to rotate enough that they never open. That prevents proper firing for sure.
  2. Good Guess I’ve just seen too many requests for my bank info from obvious scammers. Thanks for setting me straight. Bob
  3. I would be very concerned about their payment terms. Have my bank cut a certified check to them, yes. Give them access to my bank account, never. You could be out much more than the $500. Unless you have a burner account that doesn’t have any other funds in it, I wouldn’t do it. I’d rather drive to their location and hand them cash. Just my two cents. No part is worth that risk.
  4. Wow! Autotype can certainly make an interesting sentence. Mine is 85.25” to the outside of the treads. It’s more like 85.75 to outside of the tire body. Hope that helps. I look forward to making some progress this Spring/Summer on “Big Frank.”
  5. Well, I’ve made exactly zero progress on the one ton, but I certainly get you a measurement. Mine has came with no bed, but the rear end doesn’t appear to have been modified. I’ll get out and check it once it stops storming here in north Alabama. Regards, Bob
  6. Just a quick note to warn you about the line that connects the two rear cylinders. If you don’t get it tucked down flat enough, it will make contact with the drum. It it only takes half a mile to wear through the line and dump the fluid. Ask me how I know. Unless you’ve upgraded to a dual cylinder, that event will make your brake pedal useless. That’s when your emergency brake come in really handy - hope the T-handle is well oiled though it’s amazing how hard you can pull when you’re that motivated. This forum has a great supply of really knowledgeable people as well as those who can share lessons learned the hard way. Regards, BobB
  7. I'm having the same problem with my B3B. Can't seem to find the built-in short that causes it to go off all the time when I make the final connections at the horn. Pictures noting the place/connection that's tricky or a description of "the trick" would certainly be appreciated. Have to agree with the comment in the Additional Information that proper alignment of the spokes is quite difficult. I'll gladly give up on that, though, if I can get a working horn that doesn't work until called upon. Bob
  8. So that’s your definition of a dirty garage? Can’t speak for others, but I’m thinking more like “boy that’s a lot of space” than “ I spy something that’s out of place.” That looks better than mine after a good cleanin’. Congrats on the GREAT find.
  9. Someone has designed a removal tool for these nuts that fits the four indents and has a hole down rather center for the post that sticks out when you unscrew the knobs. The tool runs about $25 on EBay. Seems a bit high, but it works really well and I didn’t find a good alternative. Regards, Bob
  10. BobB


    Hi Just wanted to point out the member map that shows where members are located and gives access to their profiles which usually list what types of vehicles they have. Under “browse” the selection all the way to the right is “members.” Under that is a “members map selection. Just keep zooming inuntil you’re in the desired area. There appear to be around 20 members in the area. Many of them have car projects, though. If the menus don’t show up for you, you may have to join up to see those resources. Regards, Bob
  11. There is a set screw accessible through a hole in the end of the door. I don’t mean to imply that it’s easy, though. After 65+ years these fasteners get pretty hard to dislodge. I’ve tried penetrating oil, shocking it with cold, and trying to drill it out. Nothing has helped so far. I did find a locksmith who was able to cut a key without removing the lock. That may be an option for you. There is quite a bit of discussion on the forum on this topic. Hope you find a way that works for yours. If you find a trick that works, please feel free to share. - Bob B
  12. I have somewhat of a Frankenstein truck. When if first posted about it, I had a lot of questions and the smart guys on here pointed out features that were unique to 1942 and 1947, so not really certain of its heritage. in particular, it was pointed out that a 1 ton truck should not be sporting a 3 speed transmission. That’s the main reason I’m looking for something stouter. I just haven’t seen conversion charts for transmission swaps like I have for differentials, etc. just wondering what resources are out there. Guess it’s spline counting time... thanks, Bob
  13. Looking to strengthen the transmission in a 47 WD21 to make a heavy hauler. would a C-39883/C-39011 transmission from the same year be likely to fit? Is there documentation somewhere that I can use to evaluate options that I find? thanks, Bob
  14. My original horn, made for 6V, works just fine on my12V system. Just two cautions: keep it to short blasts (if you’re prone to laying on it hard you may want to add a voltage reducing resistor) AND it will be plenty loud run on 12V (careful when testing it in close quarters). Bob
  15. If you have an iPad and a family member that’ll let you borrow theirs, you can set one to watch the other end and sit upright to turn the wheel. FaceTime will let you see what’s under there reasonably full size. You can watch the one you’re holding while you adjust the one watching to just the right view before getting behind the wheel.
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