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swiftrev

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    14
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About swiftrev

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    South NJ
  • My Project Cars
    1952 dodge coronet

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    always on the go
  • Occupation
    d.j.

Converted

  • Location
    Pennsauken NJ
  • Interests
    Football
  1. 218-230 engine question

    Thanks for the perspectives, I am a novice, but I was just trying to figure out what i was reading. the poster of this information stated that it would only increase low end torque at a cost of more friction and heat. which would create cooling problems.....but the 1/4 stroke difference between the 218 and 230 would only be 1/8 at TDC and 1/8 at BTC right? In measuring my engine there is about .1 inch between the block deck and the piston at its top height. I was thinking about all of this because I have the gyromatic and need the 230 crank, but all I find around the graveyards here are 217s for rebuild. If I were to try this I would hand crank it to see where the piston meets at block height. it was just a thought. I was wondering why no one ever tried it.
  2. 218-230 engine question

    I was reading on another site somewhere where someone explained that using the 230 crank in the 217 engine and NOT changing the rods is also a performance upgrade that aids compression. He said that using the 230 crank with the longer rods would only slightly push the pistons to go over the deck and could be trimmed. Has anyone else ever tried this? I keep finding a lot of 218's around and not many 230's, besides my own which has a bad crank.
  3. Mid- 50's Mopar power steering compatability

    sorry to double post. but I think this video is more detailed
  4. Mid- 50's Mopar power steering compatability

    although Im far behind on my project and am more likely to leave it as is, I was intrigued by the new electric power steering conversions people are doing. It involves taking the electric power steering motor out of the 1990-2000ish saturns. I think for earlier Mopars the steering shaft cover has to be cut out. Im still trying to figure if its feasible on my 52, but its certainly worth looking into
  5. fluid coupling swap out

    yeah thanks I thought about it after I posted about the spline location for the clutch disc. So the real problem would seem to be the input shaft. because I have already have a custom driveshaft after switching rears I just didnt want to do again.
  6. fluid coupling swap out

    Hi to all. I was just wondering- while I have the fluid drive off my engine If I can replace the fluid drive coupling with a regular 8 bolt flywheel like they sell at vintagepowerwagons.com. With doing it this way I would be able to use the same Gyromatic bellhousing with just a dry clutch? 1952 Dodge Coronet Gyromatic with Chrysler 8.25 Jeep rear
  7. Gyromatic question

    yeah Im gonna have to test with the rear wheels up in the garage. maybe I could disconnect everything and just have a switch to the solenoid.... I wont have to wait a minute to shift to reverse will I?
  8. Gyromatic question

    I put a Chrysler 8.25 rear on it with 3.55 gears. after I finally got the driveshaft to length, someone offered a plymouth 3 speed tranny, which is what i wanted but I dont feel like going for another driveshaft. Im just being cheap at the moment. I still have never driven it out of my driveway. and the only time I did I drove it like a three on the tree going from first to third.
  9. Gyromatic question

    yes thats it. though I wouldn't mind a shift rite but I imagine they are as hard to find as floor shifters. I really just want to cut all of the anti stall and stuff off of the carb and just drive it like a stick shift. maybe even change the carb. the part i was wondering about was the oil pressure that shifts it from first to second/ third to fourth. I understand what your talking about I read it here: http://www.imperialclub.com/~imperialclub/Repair/Transmission/index.htm. It seems most usable with just 2 and 4 rather than 1 and 3. I was actually thinking about finding some way to jam the hydraulic shifter to stay stuck in two or four since the trans cover is off now. but if with the solenoid off it start in 1 and the oil pressure shifts to 2 I can manually shift to four I guess thats good. I cant drive it out of the driveway so ill have to jack up the rear wheels to figure out what works
  10. Gyromatic question

    OK I see. thanks. I havent found shift rite but I get what to do, like the shifters with the "nitrous" button on it
  11. Gyromatic question

    Im actually away from the car right now so I cant look at the trans to see what your saying Im only able to work on it on Saturdays. but..are you saying that it wont shift into reverse with the solenoid de energized?
  12. Gyromatic question

    is there a way to switch the wires on the governor so that the transmission stays in low- 2/4. and then the driver could just switch between high and low at the shifter? kind of like a powerflite 2 speed with a shifter.
  13. engine pull

    HI everyone, Im originally from Philadelphia, Im Now In Pennsauken, NJ. here is the actual car i bought. the ad is still online. http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?39550-1952-dodge-coronet-4-door-1600-obo I stripped the wheel lug bolts trying to get the rear drums off with a puller...because the nipple of the wheel cylinder fell off from rust as i was running new brake lines I gave up and got a 8.25 chrysler rear. so ill have to figure a drivetrain/ u bolt swap or something It also needs a rear main oil seal. thats why Im looking at how to pull the engine. It actually runs tho. I havent driven it far enough to shift the gyro yet. but I figure if its bad ill just glue the solenoid shut and drive it as a two speed on the tree.
  14. engine pull

    what are the best mounting point on a flathead 6 for the engine hoist chains.
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