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robt

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    37
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About robt

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    PA
  • Interests
    Job Rated era trucks
  • My Project Cars
    1947 WFX-32 1 1/2 ton truck
    1955 plymouth savoy
    1929 chrysler 65 roadster

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Love old mopar's
  • Occupation
    Tool and die maker

Converted

  • Location
    kingsley pa
  • Interests
    flatheads

Recent Profile Visitors

501 profile views
  1. robt

    overdrive options question

    Looking back ..I should have painted my name and address on the outside of the plywood box that I made and shipped it in. If someone opens the box they will find a paper with my name and phone number. They will need a screw gun to open it though. UPS...communication sucks! I tried to get in touch with my local branch to go and view there lost and found...you can't even get them on the phone. The "investigation team" wouldn't even call me. I called the 800 number twice a day for 10 days...no luck... I had read that they auction off undeliverable packages..I don't know if it is true or not. I tried to find out when and where they do this...and again....they wouldn't deny or confirm this. I'm just hoping that by some luck someone somewhere opens it and contacts me. I keep scouring the web to find another that isn't priced out of my budget. Rob
  2. I just shipped my R10G1 overdrive to George Asche for a rebuild. And UPS lost it! I filed a claim and have hoped for someone to find it...no luck! I was sick with grief for a week over it. I've come to terms with I'm never going to see it again. I didn't opt for additional insurance(big mistake) They gave me $100 for my loss. I will keep looking for a decent core at a reasonable price but want to look at other options as well. In any case I've tried to read through the archives to find other options. I'm planning on putting it behind my 265 into a 29 Chrysler roadster. The 883 is an option but I prefer to go with an earlier transmission. I have 2 ford and 1 Studebaker Overdrives. I'm sure someone has went this route....just wondering what the issues were? I know I'll have to deal with the parking brake, spline on the clutch, pilot bushing, and adapter plate. I haven't decided on a rear yet so I'll deal with u-joint and drive shaft changes also. Thanks for any Help Rob from PA
  3. robt

    Sand blaster advice

    I have 2 harbor freight units. they work ok with some fiddling. Ended up buying a quality nozzle and dead-man valve at a car show. works much better. I use the black beauty sand which has no silica. I still use a mask and a fabric hood. I have a 4 cylinder compressor so air is not an issue. I have also used one of the dustless blasters. They work well but you can have issues with them as well. Rob
  4. I thought I'd share my 265 project since I've spent countless hours reading this forum. I hope I can attach a link to the youtube video. The block is a (T118) 237 from a 1947 dodge 1.5 ton truck. I had to relieve (grind)the block just a small amount to create clearance for the 265 rods. I had a later 251 block to use as an example. The turned crank and reconditioned rods were from George Asche as were the matched set of carbs, cam, and split exhaust. The block had the deck machined and was bored .060 over. New valve guides and cam bearings were installed. The bearings, pistons and rings were from Terrel machine in Texas. The Manely valves were from ebay from a gentleman in Finland. I built the Accel plug wires from a universal set. The Edmunds custom aluminum intake was a craigslist find. The cam is the .380 lift with 242 degree duration that has been mention on the forum from AoK. Valve springs are from VPW. I'm starting with a 12 volt battery currently, although I plan on keeping 6 volt. Currently, I don't own a 6 v battery that has enough cranking power. There are several little things that are not completed to the way I want them, but I wanted to get it running. throttle linkage, fuel and oil lines, etc. I do have one issue. The front main seal drips one drop every 3 minutes but if you rev it, it throws 3 or 4 drops of oil as it decelerates. I'm running 10w30 with a zinc additive. Possibly 30 wt oil help this? Any suggestions or if anyone has seen this before, I'd love to hear from you. I bought a 1929 Chrysler roadster project that hopefully will be the new home for the 265. I'll probably do a compression test at some point just as a baseline. All and All I very happy with the outcome. Thanks for looking and for all the information. If the video doesn't attach , I'll work on attaching it. Rob
  5. Looks to be a fun truck. You'll certainly turn some heads. If I get a chance next weekend, I'll get a few pics of the 2 speed rear you requested. I have 3 of them, a 47 a 49 and a 51. If you were close to PA I'd make you a good deal on a rear. Not that you would probably ever need it. Your wheels look really nice. I really like the short wheel base with that bed. You'll have to run your engine numbers to see what you have. I bought 2 trucks ( 1.5 toners) that had different engines transplanted. Its always fun finding out that the 251 you just bought turns out to be a 265. Have fun with it!
  6. robt

    voltage regulator help

    I have spent several hours of reading threads and searching the web on voltage regulators. If my question is redundant I apologize. I have a GGW 6001C (40 amp 8 volt shunt) generator out of a 1951 dodge fire truck. It appears to be in very good condition compared to the other dozen or so generators that I have. I planned to use it on my 265 build, but after switching my lower pulley to a damper(with narrow belt) I had to switch the pulley on the generator. The original wide belt pulley was about 4.5" OD the narrow belt pulleys that I have are about 3.5" OD. I read in a past thread that the last letter in the gen # relates to the pulley diameter. I'm understand that because I'm going to a smaller pulley the generator will turn more rpm's. Will that be an issue? Will the regulator deal with extra output ? My next issue is the regulator. I found some Autolite data showing the proper regulator for GGw-6001 A,B,D, and J to be # VRP 6004A and GGw-6001 J and K to be #VBE 6001A. I could find nothing on the "C" which I believe is the pulley diameter. Will either of these regulators work? How specific does the regulator need to be to the generator? There appears to be about a dozen different voltage regulators listed between 1947 to 1955. Could I use any of these regulators as long as the are rated for my desired positive ground and are rated for more amps than my generator? Lastly, are there issues with buying a NOS or used one off ebay or should I be looking at buying a newer replacement type regulator? It would be easier to go to the one wire alternator either 6 or 12 volt but I don't want to do that because I want all the wiring in its original configuration. Thanks Rob
  7. Maok, Please keep up with progress on your build. I recently purchased a 29 Chrysler 65 roadster project. With it I got 2 engines. 1-65 series and one 75 series engine. the 75 series has the head off and has been bored .030. The rods with new pistons and rings attached are all bagged and ready to install. I plan on pulling the pan to confirm the mains are done. I will probably finish the rebuild and sell the engine as I plan on using a later 265 engine. In any case I'm very interested in you progress. Thanks Rob
  8. robt

    265 Dampner

    I was digging through a shelf of parts today and found damper that looks like the small one pictured. I didn't know I had it. It must have come off the car engine that I tore apart. in any case I'm going to clean it up and use it on my build. There is a layer of internal rubber that I could see. It appears to be in decent condition. I'm not going to soak it so as not to mess up the rubber. Is that rubber replaceable if you separate it? Only reason I ask is because I know how other 68 year old rubber parts have deteriorated. After reading dodgeb4yas post on the damper engine being a little smoother, I think I'd probably regret not using it knowing that I could have. Rob
  9. robt

    My first classic

    Great project. I like it! Glad to see you are giving the old flathead a little tlc and keeping it in place. Rob
  10. robt

    265 Dampner

    I've bought 6 of the 25" engines in the past few years. Two of which were 265"s and none of them had a dampener. five of them were from 1.5 or larger truck engines. The one Chrysler car engine that had been transplanted into a big truck didn't have one either. I guess it could have had one but was removed When transplanted into the truck. There was a thread several months ago on this topic. After reading it, I'm not planning on a dampener on the 265 that is going into my Chrysler roadster. Someone had mentioned that the damper may be more important on the engines with offset connecting rods if I remember correctly. I don't know if that theory is true or not. The one 265 that I bought came from a truck I remember seeing daily as kid. The gentleman that owned it hauled pallets of stone every day. The truck would be wound up pretty good when he approached a hill. It was this guys livelihood but he never babied it. That truck was 30 years old at the time. I also have a truck that hauled coal from 1947 to 1972. I have the weigh slips where it routinely hauled 10.000 lbs of coal. This truck had the 237 engine with no dampener but did have a governor. I think if I had a dampener and room was not a concern then I would use it. But in my case, I'm mating a 265 (bored .060,dual carbs dual exhaust,and cam) to a R10 OD and 3.90 gears. I think I should have plenty of torque to push a 2700 lbs roadster at rpms that I don't have to worry about a dampener. I would love to hear first hand from those who have driven vehicles with 265 or a 251 that compare any differences between engines with and without a dampener. Rob
  11. robt

    R10 OD w/fd bell housing fit 315 hemi

    Thanks for the reply. I bought the 315 hemi 25 years ago. It is complete minus a starter. It has a bell housing that appears to be from a later Mopar. We must have tried 6 or 8 starters that were on the shelf but nothing seemed to fit. Now I'm pretty excited to try it with the 55 dodge bell and starter. I'll plan on swapping out the fly wheel with the 55 as well. I'm pretty sure I read that the tooth count had changed around 57. It will be a project for the spring...guess I'll just have to hang on to the transmission until I see if hemi is a runner or not. Thanks Rob
  12. I've found and purchased several R10's over the past year. The hunt for parts is truly one of the thrills of the hobby for me. (although I'm still a rookie ) I have an R10 complete set-up out of a 55 dodge wagon v-8 car. It has the long input shaft with the fluid drive bell housing(Although it was not a fluid drive). What was the theory behind keeping the long bell when not needed? Just to standardize lengths for drive shafts and cross members ? I had planned on having the transmission converted to a short input shaft and using it on an earlier application. The bell housing wasn't drilled for both the flathead and v8. Since I purchased it, I found and purchased another set-up out of a 55 ply (short bell and input shaft out of a flathead car). This will be used in my next project. I do have a 315 hemi out of a 1959 truck. Will the long bell and input shaft from the 55 dodge bolt up to the 315 hemi? I'm thinking it should but not sure. I can't get at the hemi right now to try the fit but would like to confirm the fit either way. Should it not I'll probably sell it. thanks Rob
  13. I have 2 spare engines one from a 65 and one from a 75. The 75 is the 248 ci freshly bored .030 and new pistons assembled and bagged ready to go in. I need to pull the oil pan and confirm that the mains are done. I just have to see the 7 main bearings. I'm going to finish the rebuild whether I use the engine or not. The 65 engine came out of my roadster, looks like it was a running engine when remove. I have new pistons and rings for it also. Any issues with the vacuum tank? I'm not familiar with how exactly they work. I have a restored one but it has sat for years. I can hear something moving inside when I rotate it. Any idea if the 1930 down draft type intake manifold will fit on the 1929? Is there a Hollander manual that goes that far back that would cover that? I have a parts list coming from the guy I bought the car from(I hope). Its a whole different animal finding parts and information on Chryslers from that era vs the late 40s early 50s that are covered on this site. Both in availability and price. I'm planning on joining WPC club. Is there any other sources for information such as a forum that covers that era Chryslers? I've poked around the AACA site and have learned a little. I have quite few extra parts if you know anyone who is looking for Chrysler stuff from that era. Planning on probably selling some of it on ebay to help fun the project. I have 3 transmissions, an extra roadster cowl, 5 extra of headlights, extra set of front fenders, at least 4 bumpers, 2 extra radiators, a complete restored radio (head, receiver, and antenna), and more. I would love find a wire wheel car and convert my car to wires. I have a set of wire wheels but they are rough and pretty sure they are not correct for my car. Rob
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