mlozier76

Today my friends and I dragged home four cars and a bare Ford cab. The cars have been sitting in a back yard/field for an unknown time. There was a 46-48 Ford, 41ish Olds, 39 Chevy Pickup, and 46-48 P15. I'm torn as to what to do with the Plymouth. The more I looked at it and cleaned it, the better it looked. It definitely has blemishes brought on by tree damage and years of neglect, but appears to be rust free except for some floorpan rrust due to sitting with a few broken windows. The only papers and correspondence I found (several stamped Auto Club- like AAA and receipts) were dated 1951 and 1952. I really wasn't looking for another project, but if the signs pan out to be true, I feel compelled to do what I can to help it live out the life it was never able to see. There are some problems I see right off the bat, and body damage from trees, but with some affection I think I should be able to repair most of the damages. I don't think it's been parked since 52, thats extremely unlikely. I do believe it may have been in a backyard for 40 years or more. My 48 Dodge had been sitting since 1969, and from all appearances the rocker panels and floor on the Plymouth are in much better shape than mine were. I may work toward getting it titled and have it become another in my collection. My Studebaker may end up going to my son when he graduates in order to thin the herd and keep all of mine Mopar. Here are a few pics before I started cleaning it.

Yes it is from a Lewiston show. I have the motor out and almost done, but it used to pull the hill at about 50. I treated it kindly because she was tired and I wanted to drive it. I was trying to have it together and running for my club show in Palouse this weekend, but, I fell a little short. I've gone all over the PNW with it from Portland to Kalispell. I miss having it on the road. Soon enough, fingers crossed.

I have the original wheels and hubcaps. I had the wheels powdercoated.

One coil with 4" spacers in rear got me this stance

I'm taking advantage of the long weekend to try to finish up the things that are keeping me from getting back on the road. I was trying to use cloth wiring, but found I didn't have enough ends in my kit, so I'll just make the Belden kit work. I changed from the 2 tube to the clamshell wiring bracket. As a result, I'm going to have to figure out how to mount the ignition coil. Do any of you have pictures of how/where yours are mounted? I ordered a beehive oil filter housing because I needed to move mine after modifying my Chrysler New Yorker accelerator to fit and function with the dual 94s. It's coming together, but has definitely had its challenges. Any pointers on the ignition coil would be appreciated. Have a great weekend.

I cut one coil out of the front springs and put 4" spacers on the rear to get a lower stance. I may have dropped it much lower than you want yours. I didn't do anything more to the front, but did change the rear end to a Ford Explorer with spacers to keep the offset. I think the Explorer rear fits a Plymouth better.

I'm so sorry. I haven't been checking my posts as often as I thought. You've probably already gotten it figured out, but if not, here ya go. I had my cam reground by Earl "Edgy" Edgerton with a "boy racer" grind, suggested by The Montana Dodge Boys. Somebody had also suggested Oregon Cam Grinders in another post I had seen. I'm in the last few days of getting my engine to running condition, hopefully. I'm currently trying to get the linkage geometry right on the dual Holley 94s atop my intake. It seems that I have all sorts of linkages to choose from with ends that are too big or worn out for my rebuilt carbs. Go figure.

Its up to you. I spent a little over $2k for light machine work, new pistons, bearings, oil pump and gasket kit. Another $3-400 for cam regrind and tappet work, and my time to install the parts. It really depends on what was done to the motor (itemized receipt would be ideal).

i understand your meaning, I've got two kids who are pretty polar opposite when it comes to interests and abilities. Unfortunately the one who has mechanical skills seems to know it all at 14. He seems to think all of the old iron I have is already his, and that he's been turning wrench since he was three. True, I do have pictures, and he always wants to help, but he's still got a lot to learn, lol.

Here is a pic. Unfortunately that's all I've done with the engine the last three years, take pictures of my engine, lol. I have been fighting to get the engine worked on by machine shops and with myself. I'm usually more motivated than I've been able to be, but I did get the runaround from a machine shop for over a year. Some of them don't want to work on these inline sixes. Thanks for the info that you guys share, it is so helpful to share knowledge, so it doesn't get lost. I'll hopefully have this thing on the road by May. I'm trying to aim for a party that another car club throws down near Boise in May, before our show in June. Don't mind the writing, I was putting this on our car club Facebook page, as I recently became the Photo moderator for our Club.

thank you. that looks like it may help. that looks like a really cool find. I'm hoping to score some things like that at the end of the month in Portland at the big one there.

Is there an avenue to get parts for the Electric wipers on the D24's? I had some friends pull mine out this weekend while I was putting in the engine and others were modifying my exhaust headers to fit with the dual intake manifold. The wiper motor is an Autolite, but i forgot to take a picture of the model. I had some issues with it sporadically working when I last had the car on the road. I expect that the brushes may be at the end of their life. I didn't want to disassemble it too much until i have a cleaner area to put the parts, as I definitely have a problem with keeping track of projects. I may be able to source some brushes via the local Ace hardware, but beyond that I'll probably be up a creek. I've rebuilt many air wiper motors in the past on class 8 trucks and done a fair amount of electric motors, but it's getting harder to find suppliers for most things that should be able to be rebuilt. Dang throw-away society... enough on that. Any help on a direction to head would be greatly appreciated.

This is a very old topic, but this is what was recommended when I had my cam and tappets done. I have copied from the MoparMontana website (currently inoperative). I'm mainly trying to save the info to help others who may have had the work done as I did. I did remove the address because I don't know if Earl is still taking on work or not, and iI don't want to overstep. When I had my friends drop the cam off, he was doing other work. Information gets misplaced from time to time. The recommendations for break-in are at the bottom in the bullet points. Boy Racer Grind This camshaft provides noticeably more power without sacrificing low end torque. Great for a daily driver full-bodied car or truck. Good vacuum and idle. Slight lope, and excellent drivability. Advertised duration - 260* Duration @ .050" - 222* Lift - .410" Lash - .014" All cams require good, usable cam and lifter cores. Buyer must pay actual shipping to and from. All cams and lifters are ground to order. Turn-around is within 30 days from our receipt of your cam. Proper cam lube, assembly technique, high quality "break-in" oil, and proper cam break-in procedure at first startup are IMPERATIVE with flat tappet cams!

In case anybody wanted to know. I was able to find a saved version of the web page with the specs for the Boy Racer Grind from the MoparMontana web page. Boy Racer GrindGround exclusively for us by Earl "EDGY" Edgerton, this is by far our most recommended & popular grind. It has accounted for nearly 90% of EDGY's camshaft sales since 1996.This camshaft provides noticeably more power without sacrificing low end torque. Great for a daily driver full-bodied car or truck. Good vacuum and idle. Slight lope, and excellent drivability.Advertised duration - 260*Duration @ .050" - 222*Lift - .410"Lash - .014"

I just found out on the Facebook Mopar Vintage Speed Group (which I didn't know was their page until just now) that they are looking for a new web host.

I'm finally sending out my carbs and getting ready to set the motor in my 48 Coupe this weekend. I had Earl Edgerton machine my cam with a "Boy Racer Grind", but have forgotten the specs. I am planning to send the dual carbs out to be rebuilt and thought it may benefit them to have that info. Have any of you used that grind? I had found the specs on the Montana Dodge Boys website, but it appears to be a dead link now. Any help would be greatly appreciated. So far this is what I've had done. New pistons 0.040" over, new bearings, 0.020", Boy Racer Cam Grind, dual intake will be Holley 94s on a Bill Shanafelt Dual intake, and Phillips Performance Dual Exhaust manifolds. I'm looking forward to being able to enjoy the ride, as its been a tumultuous one. Lots of waiting on machine work, then the Hot Rod Blues hit in the winter, and I couldn't get a start on any projects. I'm trying to stay motivated.

Stupid reason, but could be dirt on the housing....ask me how I know, lol. When i first got my car running it would pop out of gear when I was going downhill. The shifter would seem to go into gear fine, but under load it was shifting just enough to pop it out. I found a healthy amount of 70 year old dirt, oil and grease caked (even some cat hair) entombing the transmission. After some scraping, degreaser and heavy power washing, wonder of wonders...it shifted properly. Not saying yours is feeling neglected like mine, but maybe somebody else is dealing with a nice barn find like mine.

I've been looking, but have yet to find a concise answer to the rear main seal being dry or wet on install. I have a 48 engine that I am in the process of finally getting back together and it has a felt, or rope rear main seal. Do I need to soak it in 30w oil before install or install dry? Searches on the main internet are giving both ways, and my manual doesn't seem to shed light on it either.

I feel ya. April is the timeline on the cam for me, which is still early enough for a season this year, but I've gotta stay on task for the body projects. Last year put me in a cloudy state, complacent. I'm looking forward to seeing things take form. I work in a parts and shop environment, on the heavy truck side of things, and last years events are still being felt. The ability to find parts for vehicles less than ten years old is hindered by this global shutdown, and the "essential vs non-essential" still. Hopefully we get back to having things available more readily soon. I've had to resort to using the web to locate parts on more than one occasion to keep a customer moving because some country didn't consider engine parts essential to export.

I spent some time last night removing my cam. I had to borrow an air powered spring compressor from work, but it worked great. I'm sending the cam out with a friend this weekend hopefully to get Earl to regrind it and moving the block to a machine shop next weekend when I am off work to start checking and decking. I've been too relaxed on my timeline, but need to get something moving. My friends have been pushing a bit to get a different powerplant (a 372 HP Challenger motor) that was found, and though tempting, is not the way I wanted to head with this project car. The Kustom Chrysler....very tempting.

Just remember, if putting in a more modern engine (anything with more horsepower) you should take a look at brakes, shocks and other items. Wiring has been problematic on my 48, but is to be expected. I've changed or rewired several harnesses now and the car tends to run much better as a result. Phantom draws definitely affect electrical performance.

Thermostatic valve, the capillary has a fluid in it that will regulate the valve. Very similar to operation of a thermostatic expansion valve (TXV) in a/c. I work with heavy trucks (parts side of things nowadays) and a lot of them use a valve similar in nature for the air conditioning, but they use two parts for the individual part shown there (capillary switch and separate water valve).

Change the tires to radials, that fixed 90% of my wandering issue. I tried bias ply after removing 235/75r15s from mine and did not like the wandering. After blowing a tube, I sent my wheels to be powdercoated and changed to radial. Very cool ride, BTW.