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About mlozier76

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 10/30/1976

Contact Methods

  • MSN
  • Biography
    Originally from Michigan, but lived in many other states over the years through military and such.
  • Occupation
    Heavy Duty Truck Parts Sales

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Lewiston, ID
  • Interests
    Working on my Cars, Camping, Car Shows, My Club, and Kids. Nothing else matters. :)
  • My Project Cars
    1948 Dodge Deluxe Coupe. 1955 Studebaker Champion w/engine from 1961 Lark VIII, and 1948 Kit Companion Travel Trailer. Picked up a 1949 New Yorker as well.


  • Location
    Lewiston, ID
  • Interests
    Car shows, reintroducing forgotten gems, Fishing, Camping, 4 Wheeling

Recent Profile Visitors

783 profile views
  1. mlozier76

    Charging Issues.

    What are you showing from the F terminal on the regulator? That should be the Field terminal, which goes to the field winding on the Generator, which produces the excitation voltage to produce generating voltage. Make sure your grounds are all good, I had a Chevy this weekend that somehow the ground strap bolt had come loose and was only producing 1/2 the time. Also, not sure if the newer rigs are like the chevy, but it only charges at higher RPM's, not idling, which may be because of the way the field circuit is grounded via the regulator, as explained in Greg G's post above and the hyperlink to "texaspowerwagon.com" . My 48 Dodge on the other hand charges either way.
  2. Ford Axle Identifier View File Here is a nice chart that I came across while trying to do research on replacing my rear axle for something a little more readily serviceable. The chart has axle code identifier and show what ratios and type of axle. It does not have widths, but at least it is a very good tool to identify without counting teeth or revolutions, assuming tag is correct. It is a Microsoft Word Document and can be printed to put in a cheat book or something like that if you'd like. Submitter mlozier76 Submitted 08/31/2017 Category Reference Information
  3. mlozier76

    Rear End Help

    Did this get identified? I am in the process of possibly replacing my rear axle, as the drum...became misshaped last friday when i tried to remove a stud. Looking into it a little further i'm finding that originally it would have had a wheel bolt rather than a stud. This is where my possible dilemma begins, as i need to figure out myself what rear end i actually have under my 48. If it is not original equipment, it may shine a light on some sealing issues i've had, but that may also just be because i can seem to only get offshore seals. I am going to crawl under it hopefully this evening and try to get some good numbers which may shed some light on the situation.
  4. mlozier76

    Parts Catalogs

    A while ago I was at a Swap meet in the town I live in and somebody had some dealership "Streamliner Quick Reference" lists for 1947 and 1949. I picked them up, kind of as an original reference format for my collection of technical enhancement material. I have a handful of varying manuals. Just putting it out there if anybody would like original part numbers or maybe a parts breakdown to aid in something you are working on. These are parts related, not shop manuals, though I am keeping my out for Dealership Service manuals as well. These types of things can provide loads of information, and I highly recommend picking them up when you see one available. The reprints are good, but nothing beats an original dealership manual, as sometimes you find hidden gems in the form of handwritten cheats, speaking from personal experience, as I sell parts for heavy trucks, and still use good old paper almost daily, as quite a few of our customers have been driving the same truck for 30-40 years, well past the manufacturer selling out to larger enterprises.
  5. mlozier76

    Age at which your child can drive your antique

    Pleasure driving only? What is that? Wink Wink I personally don't want any of my cars to have the insurance caveats on them, as I don't want to be limited to my driving pleasure time in them. I've also let my older one drive my 48 last year on private property at 13. Not that I recommend anybody do the same, but I want to instill that thrill in them, we all remember our first time driving a tractor or 4x4 and what's cooler than your old man letting you drive his "Hot Rod", even though mine is far from it. But mine are also not as nice as most of yours, but that doesn't mean I'm not as proud of my old Mopar. I've noticed that most people steer very clear of these old beauties while driving, even when they are covered in black primer.
  6. mlozier76

    Trim clips that can be used on our cars

    We have a local bolt and chain company that I get Auveco clips for work. I have in the past used them for my trim panel clips using part numbers 2619 and 2557 together. There are a bunch of different ways to secure the trim, but these worked great for me. I need to find something yet for my lower rocker trim, as it is much wider. Was thinking of making some bracket then bonding with 3M Window Urethane. I've used it for plastic panel repair in the past and it works pretty well. The clip and nut look like this:
  7. mlozier76

    If you could have one more........

    1941 WC, maybe put a Cummins 4BT in it. That's slated to be my next Mopar.
  8. mlozier76

    Generator, Starter and Voltage regulator restoration

    I just went through my starter a few days ago. They are fairly easy to freshen up. Check to make sure all the springs have good tension on the brushes. The brushes on these are fairly short, maybe 3/4" new. I was expecting much longer. Found a new commutator end (cover with bushing and springs), leather washer and drive bushing for less than $10 at a local shop. Pays to find out who makes speedo cables and rebuilds starters and generators locally, try tractor service centers as well as many farmers use their equipment well beyond normal life expectancy of automobiles, and the may have parts you wouldn't expect them to have.
  9. mlozier76

    Well into Season, but car refusing to cooperate.

    I was going to make it myself, but found that my second manifold was cracked. I was getting ready to buy the Fenton one, when my buddy picked these up at the Portland Swap meet for me this year. I believe these are from a 218, pickup, or military T-137 as the outlets are different than my originals. I did build the dual exhaust from the headers back, by repurposing some 1-1/2" from a 1939 Chevy pickup. Not the prettiest, but doing it on the cheap. I also have a friend that has a waterjet I was going to have make flanges for a tube header, but wanted to run these old schoolers for a while instead to see if I like the way they are. Just from driving it yesterday I like the response from the more open exhaust.
  10. mlozier76

    Coupes you like

    Generally I think a coupe has to have a different roof line than a sedan. I consider my 48 Dodge to be a coupe, but my 55 Studebaker is a Sedan, though it is a two door. I believe the rear window on the side of the car helps in defining, if the roof line is not separating the slope of the vehicle. At least in my mind a fastback is not the same as a coupe, but rather more a sedan. Muddy waters they are.
  11. mlozier76

    Well into Season, but car refusing to cooperate.

    Here are a few pics of the Shanafelt intake I have. Unfortunately it is rare, as far as I can tell only made a handful in the mid to late 50's. From what I understand, he mainly made intakes for Fords and others, in the Pacific Northwest alongside others like I believe it was Edmunds. This intake is really similar to Edgy's Speed shop design, and uses a similar carburetor from what I can gather. I like it for the "what the heck is that" factor and the vintage speed effect or statement I'd like to make with my car. There are some new things there, but I want to keep it fairly true to the era as much as I am able.
  12. mlozier76

    Well into Season, but car refusing to cooperate.

    I found out the problem last night. I'm not exactly sure how it happened, but the two tabs that hold the bearing plate and bearing together in the distributor had come loose and as a result the bearing top plate was popping out of the bearing every time the vacuum advance tried to do its job. Simple enough fix, but hard to see in the car. Drove the car last night to verify the fix. Thank you all for the pointers. Now getting carbon brushes and bushings, hopefully, to rebuild my starter. After that, on to dual carb setup.... Getting closer. I have about a month until our next show in Emmett, Idaho, about 5 hours away.
  13. mlozier76

    Well into Season, but car refusing to cooperate.

    I did push it back in with my fingers, the car runs, but I was just a little concerned that finger pressing might not be enough, maybe it is then. I was debating pulling the old distributor off my yet to be rebuilt enginge, but maybe i'll check it again tonight after I get the new battery put in. There isn't anything that secures it in place? The old distributor moves on the bearing, but does not come apart easily (I only used a little force with a screwdriver to test my theory on pressfit, but it didn't budge)
  14. So, I pulled my engine a few months ago (5 or 6 really) to fix some leaks, repair a framehorn crack/bad repair, and tidy up the engine compartment a little while attempting to install the dual carb setup with the 94's I have with my Shanafelt dual intake. Plagued with problem after problem, but at least the car runs now, though I am still needing to repair the distributor. I cleaned out my water passages, and boy did they need cleaning. I never should have been driving the car from the looks of it, LOL. Don't trust that others took the time to work on the motor as needed when you buy them. I did drive the car for a year and a half, but she got a little high on the temps when pulling grades around here, so I wanted to make sure she was cleaned out. When I pulled the rear core plug, I found that it was completely plugged from rust and sediment, at least 3 inches in. It took a while with a hot pressure washer to clean it out, but she finally spilled her guts and I got her back together. Put on a new water pump. I got the engine painted and re-installed, went to start with new to me dual intake setup and dual exhaust, fired and started, but couldn't get to run reliably. I then pulled the dual intake off and put the old single barrel on, to find that she was still acting the same. A little troubleshooting and found that the vacuum advance unit had rotted out, so I pulled one from my rebuild core and installed it. I got the car to run and drove it home from my buddies shop after installing a hacked together repurposed dual exhaust system using his two post lift...kinda made it home. On the ride home, I was driving it up one of the hills (grade really) and she started to spit and sputter, then would clear up, then sputter when turned, but run good on flat ground... ARGGGH! Made it home at midnight essentially, the night before my clubs car show. Needless to say, went to show without my ride, but I'd already taken up my buddies 54 Chevy Wagon, so I had a vehicle to drive. I took another look at it this past weekend, because the starter seemed to be giving me trouble. Sure enough the bendix was not retracting on the starter and was staying engaged. I also noticed that the motor would try to rotate backwards a bit when the starter button was disengaged. I originally thought this was related to the starter problem, but when I pulled the distributor cap to aid in removal of the starter, I saw that the breaker plate appeared askew. Sure enough it was loose from the bearing. I pushed it back into place, still unsure how exactly it sits in there, I think it may be a pressfit, so maybe the tolerances are worn. I have another old distributor I am going to see if I can make work, otherwise she may be down for a while until I can afford an upgrade to the Langdon 12v GM style Distributor. A real shame, as I will then have 2 positive ground pertronix units i'll have basically wasted my money on, at least until I get the 1941 Military Dodge WC-12 and WC-21 that I have kind of been told I can get when I can afford them. I'm just a little frustrated that the car had been doing wonderfully until I decided to "freshen her up a little". I almost think I never should have touched her, made her kinda irritable
  15. mlozier76

    Rough Weekend with the Dodge

    Thank you. I was trying to figure out if I could put a pin fit shank bolt and nut on it. I was planning to just repair the pump I took off as it is less than a year old, and obviously a design flaw. It was just a little embarrassing as this is the third time I've seen this girl, and I'm pretty new again at the dating thing. But I guess I'm proving my chops as being able to fix things

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