Jump to content

50 coupe

Members
  • Posts

    363
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by 50 coupe

  1. You may need to contact them. They are under new management in the past year so looks like they offer different conversion kits than in the past. I installed one of their conversion kits almost 10 years ago. Over time their kits and parts recommendations have changed based on what parts were affordable and commonly available at the time. So, what is on your car now may not be what they carry now.
  2. 1979, my car in high school. 1968 Super Bee. Pulled the 383 and put in a 440 six pack motor. Didn't have the 3x2 set up but back in the day the Holley 780, edelbrock torquer was the set up. TRW 10:1 pop up pistons, .30 over, headers, hoary Comp Cam, etc. 4 speed and 4:56 gears on the back. Yes it was a screamer. NO I don't have the car anymore. Long gone sadley. Sold it off in 1980. Time to move out and go to college. Hense the 1950 Coupe today.
  3. It's been a process. Hopefully by Spring the 383 will be in and running! First design of motor mount to frame didn't work. Second attempt appears to be successful. Passenger side done, driversid half way their. Just waiting for above 0 temps to get back at it. Transmission crossmember already completed.
  4. If you trying to do original, good luck on finding parts. I pretty much end up just making stuff. Of course my car is more of a Rat than anything else. LOL
  5. That is kinda what I thought looking at it. Remind me again what is involved in pulling the coil springs? I did it several years ago when I replaced the king pins but don't recall but I will check my manual. I think something like unbolt the top of the steering knuckle support and shock, support the lower control arm with a hydraulic jack and ease it down to unload the spring????
  6. Can anyone chime in and let me know if this will be enough clearance between the oil pan and this steering member? Looks like 2 inches with steering wheel turned all the way to the left. This is a 1950 Ply. business coupe and I am trying to fit in a 383 Chrysler engine with Torqueflite transmission. The car is off the ground with the frame up on jackstands, and no tires so the suspension is not compressed.
  7. OMG I do remember that add! That is another one 'that would never be allowed today'!
  8. I put a 98 Ford Explorer rear end under my 50 Ply. business coupe. Pretty much the same width, or w/in less than an inch from what I recall. Maybe a junk yard still has these?
  9. I know this is a really old thread but just reaching out to ask; I am installing a 383 b block in a 50 Plymouth business coupe and have a couple questions about your motor mounts. They appear to be bolted in vs welded, did you drill the holes in the frame with a hand drill? Did you tap threads for the bolts or did you secure them with nuts? If so, did you have to drill holes on the opposite side of the frame to get the nuts to the bolts? If anyone else knows the answers to my questions, please feel free to respond. Thanks!
  10. I did a Scare bird conversion a few years ago. Works great. Did they indicate if they will offer the 46-54 kit again in the future and when? If so, maybe wait until that time.
  11. You may need to pull the front clip off the car if you haven't already. You prolly gonna have to anyway to fit in motor mounts. I was able to get mine off as all 'one unit'.
  12. My filter mount just clears the frame of the motor to set down in the well (without filter attached of course). However, I will need to fit with a transmission attached to get a better idea. Still researching remote filter options to see how much clearance it will provide up front. Just wanted to see what others have experienced with similar set up at this point.
  13. Anyone who dropped a b/rb block in one of these, did you use an oil filter relocation kit or just set the motor back far enough for the front mount oil filter to clear the front of the frame?
  14. Yup!. Full service stations, high school through college, 1977-1984 in Florida. Also, did light mechanical work. Got paid commissions too. Drove a big block SuperBee so knew all the local gear heads also. Station owners were some real characters back then. I still have some great stories to tell.
  15. I should advise anyone taking the body off of this era Mopar to not forget to remove the two middle carriage bolts that go through the frame's rear cross member at the very back of the car. I have seen these bolts referenced before, where exactly are they located? Are you talking about the two at the very back corners of the trunk?
  16. This is the kind of demonstration that gives me confidence to go forward and not worry about what little experience I have!
  17. Picked up a big block 383 that I will put into my coupe after I am done with the million and one things I need to 'fix' in order to make it street worthy of the big block. Already have a Ford 8.8 rear end and disc brakes all around. Definitely want it to be a safe driver. Had it running with the old 218 but can't really drive it where and how I wanted to with that motor. I know this is always a debate on this forum and I admire the guys that can keep the old stuff running satisfactorily!!
  18. Dude, you can check out, but you can never leave.
  19. Do the kingpins themselves actually 'wear out' or is it just the bushings?? A few years ago I attempted to replace mine with new ones bought from AB. Turns out they were slightly over sized in diameter. Didn't find out until I tried to put them in. Long story short, I got new bushings, used the old pins and reamed the bushings to size.
  20. Great. Thanks for the info and the picture!
  21. Plymouthy, did you have to cut the crossmember? Where on the frame did you attach the mounts?
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use