Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


wayfarer last won the day on April 24 2017

wayfarer had the most liked content!

1 Follower

About wayfarer

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • Yahoo

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Central Ory-Gun
  • Interests
    Mostly Old Parts And Rust
  • My Project Cars
    47 1½T, 77 D300, 79 W150, 73 RoadRunner, 47 Suburban (for sale), 47 DeSoto (for sale), 50 Windsor (for sale)


  • Location
    Central Ory-Gun
  • Interests
    all things automotive

Recent Profile Visitors

919 profile views
  1. 270 poly-head swap

    The 270 is a fairly compact assembly so this should be a relatively easy swap. As Andy mentions, the PF is a bit heavy but, when in good condition, a very adequate performer. The usual interference will be the exhaust manifold and steering column so move the engine/trans to the pass side...2" is not extreme. Oh yeah, move BOTH the engine/trans, not just the engine. The '56 is 12v but you can use a '55 starter and generator and keep everything 6v. The 'other' big questions are how well equipped is your shop? How much working space do you have? How are your fab skills?
  2. Hi-teh, lo-tech or no-tech....sorta depends on the desired outcome. If kencombs wants something 'interesting' there are a multitude of options as we have discussed prior. The Chrysler version of the 'poly', which I prefer to call 'Spitfire' (since that is what is embossed in the valve cover) is one helluva a performer. With a FiTech efi on top it will do just about anything one would ask of it. The late 4.7 is under-rated by the hot-rod crowd but still a good performer and most folks will stare a long time trying to figure out what it is. Yes, a bit more complicated.
  3. I'll try to keep this succinct....... All pre-62 V8 engines, as well as the L6 engines have an extended crank flange. The pre-62 A engines, and the various EarlyHemi engines, except for the 51-53 Chrysler 331, all share the same block bolt and dowel pattern. The V8 crank flange bolt pattern also changed with the 1962 model year. If you only redrill a pre-62 bell and relocate the dowels you will need a spacer for the crank flange and, you will either redrill an early flywheel bolt pattern for the late pattern or you will put an early ring gear on a late flywheel. Keep in mind that over-laying a late 6-bolt pattern onto an early 6/8 bolt pattern some holes will overlap. As to the bellhousing, most often, there will not be adequate material in the area where the new dowel needs to be. It has been done where locating dowels have been drilled in a 'new' area of the bell after 'zeroing' the bell to the crank. There is additional info on my web page.
  4. Summer fall Plymouth trips

    The Walter P Chrysler Club national meet in Chattenooga, Tenn Sept 4-8 could be possible as I was thinking of hitting the Whisky Trail at about that time....maybe add a couple of days to the trip.
  5. 318 and 904 swap into 1951 B-3

    There are several past threads that deal with engine swaps that could offer-up some of the details that you seek, but you are not likely to find a complete 'how-to' since everyone has a slightly different approach. In addition to 48dodger you should also look at Dan Babbs Hemi swap. Start searching.
  6. 1955 C1B Build Thread

    ...ceramic won't fit..? you must then have Chrysler insulators. Buy some of the 'plastic' pieces and cut them to fit. As to the 8mm, they are often a problem simply because they are so fat. https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwix1ce42YLaAhVMan4KHdW6C3MYABAQGgJwYw&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAESEeD2CD64Sp6MVRV4e6N290v2&sig=AOD64_1B6fjSsGrCJIORtj7KVyVbgWTvmQ&ctype=5&q=&ved=0ahUKEwiMj8G42YLaAhUL7WMKHdDADTMQ9aACCDM&adurl=
  7. 1955 C1B Build Thread

    ...sounds like 8mm stuff....
  8. Sbc in 50 plymouth

    The A body unit has a 'special' curve to clear the steering shaft. Fester60 has a good photo of this on his project. ...cannot get rid of this 'pop-up' ...would not just a link be just as good???? http://s1224.photobucket.com/user/FESTER50/media/Dodge pics/101_0305.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0 You WILL have to wade through a massive amount of pop-up ads to actually get to his album........
  9. Sbc in 50 plymouth

    The 'usual' driver exhaust manifold is a 69-72 ? A body unit. The Durango units, as in the above photo, look good.
  10. Sbc in 50 plymouth

    Now that you are back on track you might change the title of the thread. Is the 318 and 904 an assembly or from two sources? If together, then be damn sure to keep the throttle pressure governor linkage in place as you develop you swap. If you are getting them from separate sources then find out if either has the linkage, you will need it. Operating the transmission (driving the car) without the linkage in place (and properly adjusted) will destroy the trans.
  11. Sbc in 50 plymouth

    Ok Don, now we need some more information on that...
  12. Engine swap

    I really doubt that adding 6 carbs would make up for a gear change...the rpm will still be the same. If the fan noise at freeway speed is causing you fright then swap to a clutch unit.
  13. 51 Plymouth, Mustang II Kit, Custom Stub?

    Yeah...gotta call ya on that.... The Early Hemi is no different than any other engine if it is properly rebuilt. There should be no reason to be in need of parts. These engines will easliy outlast most ownership time periods.
  14. Unless there is an overpowering reason to use the old axle assembly then I'd be shopping for the Explorer 8.8 axle. As mentioned the Cherokee is also a good fit. Both are usually very reasonable in the Pik-n-pull yards. Newer axle= better parts supply.....and no tapered axles.... Do some searching, there are some threads on this subject.
  15. Question: Bellhousing Profile

    Not sure which 'automatic' trans that is for......Mopar ring gears are mounted on the torque converter not the flex-plate.... More photos would be nice.