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wayfarer last won the day on April 24

wayfarer had the most liked content!

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About wayfarer

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

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Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Central Ory-Gun
  • Interests
    Mostly Old Parts And Rust
  • My Project Cars
    47 1½T, 77 D300, 79 W150, 73 RoadRunner, 47 Suburban (for sale), 47 DeSoto (for sale), 50 Windsor (for sale)


  • Location
    Central Ory-Gun
  • Interests
    all things automotive

Recent Profile Visitors

693 profile views
  1. Is the H.A.M.B. down?

    Not being a techie, is that reasonable ? Why would anyone have/maintain such a huge forum not backup on a regular (hourly??) basis? Like I say, I am not a tech-guy so maybe I am missing something.
  2. galvanic corrosion / stainless steel washers ??

    I agree, it would appear that the SS threads are 'soft' enough to move around under pressure and try to meld together. I use Never-sieze on just about everything and I like to use Everdur nuts on SS bolts.
  3. Is the H.A.M.B. down?

    Hamb is back up...kinda...alot of threads that seem to have 'lost' several days worth of posts. Time will tell .....
  4. Rotors help please

    Charlie is a good guy and has sold a multitude of his kits for a good reason, they work. That said, there is, somewhere, a link to a thread with a sketch for the front brackets that, as I recall, uses Explorer bits and pieces. Cannot recall if it is for car or truck. Maybe someone has it parked in a folder.
  5. V8 conversion for my 47 P15 sedan

    I agree! good stuff right there.
  6. V8 conversion for my 47 P15 sedan

    3 or 4 years ago I went to a car show where the owner had used the front dakota frame with motor, cut the P15 frame overlapped them and welded them together. Kept the look stock, used the column shift to shift the automatic. The Gen I Dakota swap is popular for many reasons and none of them will appease those who don't like hot-rods of any sort. Some of you guys like to brag about all of your engine and trans modifications but scoff at a frame clip. Whats the deal? What makes a dual carb swap ok but not disc brakes? Seriously, I gotta know so that I can try to figure out the logic (assuming that some exists). We are blessed with modern suspension, brakes and the ease of installing a newer engine (that some of us prefer) so whats not to like?
  7. 5sp conversion

    ...and once again I'll mention Rober Horne's swap using the Ranger 5-spd swap that can be done easily and no doubt for less money than the t5.
  8. V8 conversion for my 47 P15 sedan

    The OP says that he just want to add a few comfort features. In my world that would include enough power to keep up with any/all freeway traffic if the need arise. Adding something like an a/c pump to an L6 will just suck up hp that is already in short supply. The OP wants to install a small block so a late 360 Magnum is a good choice...in my little world I could easily stretch the definition of "small-block" since the EarlyHemi is closely related so maybe a healthy 392 is in order? On a more practical side, there are plenty of rusted/wrecked Ram 1500 in the bone yards and as Plymouthy Adams suggests, some of the late v-6 are plenty stout if the electronics don't scare you off.
  9. 318/360 in a 55 or 56

    55 and 56 what?? Some big differences between the various make/models. And what, exactly, is the problem with whatever the oem engine happens to be? Dartgame, thanks for the nod!
  10. V8 conversion for my 47 P15 sedan

    Certainly a good swap and has been done many times in various configurations so you just need to sort out the details before you dive in. Troll through the search button and see what others have done. Here are 2: http://p15-d24.com/topic/22985-im-back/ http://p15-d24.com/topic/37426-360-magnum-nv3500-in-my-48-plymouth/
  11. Rear end swap

    It is all in the math...and the available torque. Many 5-spd trans will have a overdrive ratio in the .7 to .8 range. If you simply multiply the rear axle ratio by .7 you get the 'new' effective ratio. The first gear ratio is also a concern so some balance must be struck or the 1st gear is rendered useless. Example; 4.56 x .7 = 3.19 Similar to what we had in the old days when MaMopar used 3.23 in nearly everything. However, if you put an OD trans behind the 3.23....3.23 x .7 = 2.26..... Not a good number when you are low on grunt to start with. It would certainly keep the engine rpm down but the driving results would be less than spectatular. There is a reason why the 3.9 and 4.3 gears were used behind small engines. Conversely, the 1st gear ratio would probably be happier with the 2.26 rather than the 3.23 or, worse, a 3.9 final. Here is a favorite on-line gear calculator so you can play with the numbers: http://ctny.audiworld.com/mark/s4/gears/gear_calc.html
  12. Will not Cross Drill my crank

    Full groove bearing were once state-of-the-art for drag racing and such. I do believe that even NASCAR engine builders have moved away from any grooves in order to increase surface bearing and better maintain the fluid wedge. The usefulness of cross-drilling is a factor the oil system design itself. Some engines benefit more than others. The bottom line is that you need to have oil at all times at all places.
  13. Rear end swap

    Some of the Ranger axles are too narrow. Check my web site for a list of axles. If you take the time to do a search on axle swaps you will find what is needed on the flange.
  14. P15/explorer park brake problem

    Unless the attachment point of the cable is moved away from the pivot then nothing is gained with the Lokar. Moving the attachment was my previous thought.
  15. Help picking a motor for my 1940 chrysler

    I'll add a couple of random thoughts. If you want a 5-6 speed manual then perhaps the best option, and one that can be done in your garage, is to follow Robert Horne's swap with the Ford Range 5-spd. The A-833, as great as they are, are not getting cheaper or easier to find, and they are still a 3+1. Oh Yeah, the linkage alone can be hundreds of dollars US. Just food for thought.... You should have a long talk with your favorite machine shop and have them price out a full overhaul of your 264 so you have a place to start making comparisons. Quite frankly, I am shocked by Jolly's rebuild costs. If you want a v-8 and 5spd then start looking for rusted out Dodge pickups, 1500 or Dakota, with the 318 or 360 Magnum and 5-spd trans. Some even had a Getrag 6-spd. You will require a new rear axle so look for an Explorer with the disc brakes you were planning on. Yes, a swap of this kind is not for the faint of heart as it will require some serious fab skills, but a bone stock v8 will have more power than any modified L head. And, if you don't want to muck about with the oem EFI then there are other intake manifilds available for carbs/throttle bodies. I'll stop here as I'm sure that some will disagree with my approach.