52dodge

back when i first finished the job the topic came up and most seemed to think either the pedal was outta adjustment or the rebuilt tranny had to break in but after 1200 miles and playing with the clutch adjustment the problem is elsewhere, pulling the tranny out is pretty easy so ill try that first and oil up the bushings and shaft with oil

wouldn't you think that if a little oil was put on the end of the input shaft 60+ years ago from the factory it woulda dried up or wore away by now and i woulda had the same situation before i did the clutch job?

i have tried adjusting it all the way to the very last thread on the rod,didn't change anything. Its something besides the clutch not disengaging thats keeping the input spinning slightly

thanks for the responses guys....i didn't replace the pilot bushing because i have a fluid drive converter and was informed that a special tool was required, i inspected it and it looked fine.The input shaft was smooth with no burs or anything. I didn't lube the end of the shaft with anything because i read if you do it could cause knawling of the pilot bushing.If i do put it in second the syncros do stop everything from spinning .......but i have to quickly shift to reverse or first for it to go in grind free.If i pause the gears start spinning and it will grind.Originally i was using 10w oil in the tranny.I thought maybe this was too thin causing my problem so i changed it out for 80-90w gear oil but it didn't help any.I have 1 inch of free play in the pedal and have tried adjusting it from one no freeplay to alot of freeplay to get a longer stroke thinking the clutch wasn't disengaging all the way but none of this helps.I have even pushed the clutch in and waited a full 2 minutes for everything to stop spinning but this also had no effect. It seems to be just a slight drag because i can grind it to a stop and it will go in.With the car not running it goes easily into any gear

I put a new clutch and pressure plate in my d-42 about 3 months and 1200 miles ago.Heres my problem thats existed since i completed the job.The transmission grinds when trying to go into 1st or reverse.If i put the transmission in 2nd or 3rd it goes in no problem because those gears are synchronized.If i put it in 2nd then quickly go into either 1st or reverse it goes in no problem.The problem seems to be that the input shaft on the transmission is spinning even though the clutch is pushed in.I have one inch of freeplay in the clutch pedel and have played with adjusting it from one end of the adjustment to the other with no change.Something is physically keeping the input shaft spining even thought the clutch is disengaged.If i grind it bad it will slow to a stop and it will go into gear but if you take it back outta gear it will start spinning again.Every other aspect of the clutch works great,it dont slip and once you get it into first it shifts smooth through 2nd and 3rd.What could possibly be causing the input shaft to continue spinning even though the clutch is disengaged?I thought that maybe the aftermarket gasket that goes between the tranny and bellhousing is thinner than factory causing the input shaft to bottom out in the pilot bushing?? I tightened the transmission bolts evenly when installing the transmission.Im outta ideas!

quick question guys,on my exhaust manifold the heat diverter/flapper things spring is broken,the blade inside is not frozen and it flips back and fourth,which position do i want the blade when the car is warm looking at it from the passenger fender?All the way clockwise or counter clockwise?Not sure which way is open and wich way is closed.

thanks captain den,i ordered new upper and lower wheel cyls and 2 new brake hoses along with new shoes.

i wouldnt think the brakes would go that far outta adjustment overnight

looking at the brake hoses i think there actually dated,they say Sunsong DOT SAE J1401 09/07, So maybe the brake hoses were alreay done by the previous owner,i wouldn't think they would be bad after only 6 years but who knows,at first glance nothing looked like it was leaking,but there is moisture maybe brake fluid on the lower wheel cyl,its not dripping or anything just moist

I promise not to clutter up the site and keep all my inquiries in here lol.My D42 developed a new problem today on the way to work surprise surprise, seems like its one thing after another.Since i got this car it always pulled to the right when braking,it was kinda bad at first so i pulled the right front wheel and found the lower wheel cyl leaking.I took all the brakes apart on that side,replaced the leaking cyl, sanded the shoes and washed them and everything down gd with brake clean and put it back together. It was much much better but still pulled alittle,but it was livable.Today i pulled out to go to work and when i went to hit the brakes the car took a scary death pull to the left real hard into the oncoming traffic lane,thank god nobody was coming. It continued to pull extremely bad to the left the rest of the way to work and home,so bad it would easily lock the left front tire up like it was the only brake working.Im home now and pulled both front drums to inspect figuring id find a leaking left side wheel cylinder but found nothing leaking and everything looking ok.Any ideas? I thought maybe a brake hose but i thought the brake would be hanging up if the hose was collapsing internally.

did you get it completly restored for $300? or just repaired to working condition?

WOW $300? What happened that it became a paperweight?What have others payed to have theres repaired?Id rather take my chances with a $100 used one than pay that much

thanks shel_bizzy_48,ill head over to napa tomm with that part number

My speedo has always had a mind of its own,sometimes it would swing erraticly,sometimes it would read to slow,sometimes it would work great.I figured the speedo cable was getting old and wore.Well today the speedo completly died and just sits on zero,i figured the cable finally broke.Well thats not the case cause the odometer still works fine.Are there any places that service these old units or am i gonna have to buy a used one off ebay or somewhere?

i thought about this at one point when i was trying to figure out what fluid to use,and to be honest it was so black and nasty it coulda been either,i stopped at napa and tractor supply and neither had a listing for anything other than gl4 or 5