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61farnham

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Everything posted by 61farnham

  1. Sounds to me you have air in system, try topping the coolant up just above the fins inside the radiator and run the engine up to normal operating temperature with the cap off the radiator and top up the coolant if it drops below the fins when the thermostat opens, you should see some air bubbles come thru the top hose into the radiator when the thermostat opens and the coolant circulates these will vent thru the open cap instead being forced thru the overflow. Let it run with cap off till you get no more bubbles coming thru put the cap back on and you should be good to go.
  2. My first port of call for parts is https://www.rockauto.com/ they have the basics and quick shipping to the UK, not found any treasure shop this side unfortunately. A couple of other suppliers are https://www.oldmoparts.com/ and https://www.robertsmotorparts.com/store/ . Nos parts turn up on US ebay now and again but prices vary greatly and patience is required there if your looking for something specific. There are still companies in the UK who will reline your brake shoes if that's necessary, google to find someone local to you. The most important thing you can buy is a proper factory issue repair manual for your car, reprints are available but genuine ones can be regularly found on US ebay at sensible prices. I'm down in Hampshire on the south coast. Any questions you have post them up here and someone will have an answer, it's a great forum unlike some i'm on. Look forward to seeing your progress.. Regards...... Simon.
  3. Welcome to the forum, lots of good folk and info here, as Sniper says there's an small inspection panel in floor under the drivers feet you can remove for topping up the master cylinder. If the cars been sat for 15 years with no brakes i wouldn't bother putting any brake fluid in as you'll probably end up with a puddle on the floor. At the very least i'd be pulling the wheels and brake drums off and putting new seals in the wheel/master cylinders stripping the brakes shoes off and make sure everything is moving as it should, check the brake pipes for corrosion too while your there. Have you a workshop manual for the car? Great looking car you have there, whereabouts in the U.K. are you? Regards...... Simon.
  4. Had to google that, apparently they use nylon brake lines in some light aircraft kits and race cars for weight saving over metal lines, but as Dodgeb4ya states it's NOT for street use.
  5. If your using copper or copper alloy tubing for your brakelines i'd recommend the rubber lined clips as posted above and placing the clips about a foot apart for better support as it's more prone to vibration than the original steel tubing.
  6. If you need a new pedal shaft and bushings you can use a '48 f**d one, there's a seller on ebay who sells repro ones. Check out my earlier thread for details of how I fitted them to my stock '48 Plymouth master cylinder.
  7. I smell a cunning plan to get me active on Facebook?
  8. There's a seller on ebay with just the nuts, type in "1930's 1940's 1950's mopar exhaust manifold nuts" or I found another ebay seller mopar-direct, type in "1946-1959 Plymouth, Dodge manifold hardware rebuild kit", with the whole kit plus gaskets for $70 but they wanted $85 to ship to me in the UK and when you add on 20% import duty + tax it would have been almost $200 for the studs/nuts and washers, i run a Plymouth not a Rolls Royce?. Vintage Power Wagons sell the full kit as well for $60 without the gaskets but I never got a reply from them for a shipping quote. I'm envious of of that manifold you've on order if I didn't already have a tall Edmunds to fit I'd be next in line. Regards.....
  9. Ha, just gone through this myself with the studs whilst tracing a pinking/knocking noise in the engine on acceleration which i've hopefully traced to a leaking valve cover combined with a loose intake manifold. The valve cover had a slight leak on the top edge just under the intake manifold which not being sealed properly sucked the oil into the rear two cylinders on accelerating causing air/fuel mixture to be wrong hence the pinking, fingers crossed it's just a case of new gaskets and sealant I'll know when it's back together. Anyhow back to the manifold studs and with mine looking not the best I needed to replace them, according to my P15 parts book there were three different lengths of stud used, 4 no. 1-15/16" long 7 no. 1-11/16" long 2 no. 3-5/16" long with the 4 no 1-15/16" going at each end of the exhaust manifold with the conical nuts and washers on. The best match I could find was as follows Dorman 675-003 at 2" long Dorman 675-070 at 1-3/4" long Dorman 675-080 at 3-3/4" long These all have the 3/8" unc threads at one end and 3/8" unf threads at the other as per original spec. I've just ordered them from Rockauto so not fitted yet but i can see no reason why they shouldn't work ok. They all only come in boxes of ten but their cheap enough. Here's a quick to scale sketch I did to show comparsion between them.
  10. Just updating this thread, The silent block bushes I ordered arrived, Dayton RB1, and were fitted yesterday with no problems. Shown here with what i removed from the spring. I fitted nos shackles and bushes which i had to replace the worn ones. Also i fitted new lower shock mount studs which came from Speedway Motors part no.91036096. These were almost the same apart from a lack of a shoulder on the end which fixes to the mounting bracket, I got round this by pressing in a reducer bush to take the hole in the bracket from 5/8" to 1/2". One more job completed. Thanks again for everyone's input.
  11. I've ordered from Rockauto @ $18.50 a pair as their shipping to UK works out cheaper. I found them at truckspring.com @ $5.97 each but with shipping to me Rockauto worked out a better deal. I couldn't find a supplier over here. Thanks for your help.
  12. As usual nothing seems straightforward on this car. I've removed rear springs to find a previous owner had fitted the wrong silentblock bush. It looks like they'd found a bush with the right inner and outer diameter but too long and cut it to length but still too short and then added a washer between the bush end and the inside of the chassis mounting bracket, the bush on the other side of the car was the same so i'm assuming they had one long bush and cut it in half to do both sides of the car so it was no use for reference. The original bush had a mopar no. 1134486 according to my parts book and digging round the net came up with a cross reference to a modern part no. Dayton RB1 with the dimensions as follows- OD - 1-9/32" ID - 5/8" OD length - 2" ID Length - 2-5/16" On checking the mounting bracket and rear spring this seems to tally up so i've ordered these from Rockauto who had them listed for Dodge's of the same era but not Plymouth Desoto or Chrysler which are supposed to use the same bushing according to some sources, so we'll see what turns up. I'll update when I know more.
  13. Agree with your recommendation about using original silent block type bush, poly bushes are popular here for two reasons first there're available and secondly the quality of modern replacement rubber bushes is suspect at best, it's not unknown to be swapping them again after a few hundred miles!!
  14. Thanks for the reply's, all good info. A search of net brought up several truck and trailer places selling silent block bushing by size, i'll measure what I've got before removal and go from there. I'll update when I know more.
  15. Anyone know the dimensions of the silent block bushes that fit in the front of the rear spring on a '48 Plymouth as i need to change mine and I'm looking to find some locally here in the U.K. just need the size as I'm sure the old ones will be destroyed in the process of removal. Regards ......... Simon.
  16. Great weekend, Great people, Thanks go to Robin and crew for organising the event. Looking forward to next year. Mines the Grey Bus. Coupe in the first photo been on the forum since 2013, car was imported by the previous owner in 2012. It was built in L.A. and been around the San Francisco area for most of it's live that i know about. I've had to completely replace brakes, fit new fuel tank and have a new prop shaft made in the time I've owned it. Jobs for this winter include new screen rubber, investigate a knocking in the engine and fit new rear shackle bushes. regards to all ........ Simon.
  17. I had a new prop shaft made for my 48 Plymouth here in the UK cost me £315 (around $400 at todays exchange rate) it has modern uj's and a slip joint like dodgeb4ya's picture. New ball and trunnions joints were around $90 each end then I had to factor in shipping and duty and they still had to be fitted and maintained. New shaft is fit and forget except a couple of squirts with grease gun twice a year, I kept the original transmission and rear end. You should be able to take your original prop shaft to a specialist shop and they'll make you a new one to bolt back in. I would imagine the price of those original uj's is only gonna keep rising as they become scarcer. Regards........ Simon.
  18. Have you tried https://www.rockauto.com/ , shipping costs aren't too bad and import duty's included in their price so nothing to pay when the package lands unlike when using Royal Mail , you could always add a few other small bits, points, condenser, gaskets, etc, to make it more cost effective. Autolite 306 listed at £1.04 each. regards........... Simon.
  19. Hi GiraffeDan, The seals i used for my rear axle were as follows - Inner - National 470950 2.44" Outer Diameter 1.375" Inner Diameter 0.5" Width Outer - National 6241s I never did find out if the axle in my car was the original one or not but the seals listed above fitted it and are still good so happy days. Would recommend pulling the old seals first to get the part no. off them before ordering new ones if this is practicable. Hope this helps Regards........ Simon.
  20. Good to see your progress, look forward to seeing it on the road, I'll add my vote to leaving the paint as is. I can highly recommend Robins P15 picnic. Thanks for posting.
  21. Thanks for taking the time to post this build, got to love a wagon but then i'm a little biased, look forward to seeing your progress. Regards.......... Simon.
  22. Big thanks to Chris, Dean & Robin for organising the weekend, looking forward to next year. Nice photos........ Mines the '48 grey business coupe which was imported to UK in 2011 and I've owned since 2013. It came out of the LA plant, I only know some of it's history from the late eighties onwards gleaned from a large wad of receipts that came with the car and it seems it spent most of it's time in the San Francisco bay area with owners living in Freemont, Oakland and Los Altos that I know of. That would make a nice toolbox/bumper sticker? Regards to all ............ Simon.
  23. I used these bushings that fit a '48 Ford https://www.ebay.com/itm/1940-48-Ford-brake-clutch-pedal-shaft-brass-bushings-flathead/261944785986?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D4c532b0e9b374ebc9b5117f5f89d11c9%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D15%26mehot%3Dag%26sd%3D163287081014%26itm%3D261944785986&_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3Af0c9f562-c5c0-11e8-8fb9-74dbd1805b4f|parentrq%3A3188537a1660aad3210c51b6fff3d181|iid%3A1 od - 0.8125" id - 0.750" Length 0.680" They used a pair of bushings on each pedal on the Ford My '48 Plymouth needed a bushing 1.250" long for the clutch and 1.750" for the brake pedal so I fitted a pair of the Ford bushings in each pedal and cut off the excess on the clutch and lived with the 0.390" gap between the two bushings on brake pedal. I also used the Ford shaft and e-clips from the same seller. The Ford shaft is 0.750" in diameter but about half an inch longer than the Plymouth's, if your clever you could cut it length and remachine the e-clip groove or if your too impatient like me you can add a couple of 3/4 id washers on each end to take the slack.When i'm next under the car I'll take a photo and post it. Hope this helps regards............. Simon.
  24. Never come across them before but I'd say you'd need at least a triple carb set up to run one of our flatheads. A standard 1000cc A series engined Mini runs an 1-1/4" SU carb for comparison on my Ford Zodiac which has a 2600cc straight six i'm running triple 1-1/2" SU's which was a period upgrade in the day to replace the original single Zenith carb. Still would be a cool thing to see and a good talking point at a show and obviously you'd need to make an intake manifold as well.
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