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Everything posted by P15-D24

  1. P15-D24

    Sand blaster advice

    I had a similar compressor and tried to run my pressure pot. Didn't get the job done. They use a lot of air and you need a 2 stage 5 HP minimum. Check the stuff at TIP https://www.tptools.com. They are the pros at this stuff. If your not using a pressure breather you need a full face mast. Safety first.
  2. P15-D24

    Sand blaster advice

    Been there, done this. For a pressure pot you need a 2 stage 5 hp compressor with moisture traps and a big tank. Use 1/2 air line. Don't use sand, find your local distributor for abrasives and they can recommend the best type of abrasive for the job you are doing. Get extra gun tips, they wear out. For safety, I use a full mask with pressure air feed under a full cloth hood. Heavy duty long sleeve shirt and pants, work shoes and good gloves. If you set your gear up correctly if can be a very fast and easy job, if not a very frustrating day with clogs. I set up a heave duty plastic backstop so I can captures the abrasives, run them through the strainer and then reuse.
  3. P15-D24

    Wanted Ad here at this site

    Yep, that is correct. Why your ask? Because a portion of the community wouldn't follow a few simple rules about keeping their ads text only and in my grumpy oldness I have grown tired of being bitched at why other people don't keep their ads current. This way, if you really want sell/need something you will buy an ad. And the small amount of $$$ generated helps pay the ISP and software bills. The fee is pretty trivial.
  4. P15-D24

    Heat riser anti rattle material

    Something like this on Grainger:10 ft. Compression Packing Seal, 3/16Sq, Flexible Graphite
  5. P15-D24

    Want ads?

    Yeah, but it still goes in my pocket 😉
  6. P15-D24

    Want ads?

    rant on/ Honestly, between the amount of crap I've gotten from people about the ads being out of date, items sold or no longer needed and other members not following some very basic simple rules I would just as soon not have any. Sorry folks, it not my fault ads get out of date and the original author doesn't update or delete them. If people want ads, they need to step up and be responsible for paying and managing them. /rant off
  7. P15-D24

    Brakes again

    I would look for a replacement backing plate from a salvage yard.
  8. P15-D24

    Fuel not getting to all cylinders

    I doubt it will run a 30. I've seen them barely run at 50 but never that low. I would do a leak down test to verify the valves are closing/not leaking. Never heard of a rebuild having that low of compression and it tells me something mechanical is seriously not right.
  9. P15-D24

    I am at a cross road

    That is why you need to read the manual...
  10. P15-D24

    Fuel not getting to all cylinders

    First I would pull the valve covers and verify all valve are working and nothing is sticking. Second while in there I would check the camshaft timing to verify the cam gears are correctly installed. The manual has the specs for the degrees the #1 valves open and close. You can check the degree marks on the crank pulley. Then do a static timing of the ignition. Are your sure the ignition isn't 180 degrees out? (This is why a you need to do a static timing) Does it pop or backfire or is it totally dead?
  11. P15-D24

    Main bearing shim stock

    Agree with Merle, seriously doubt if it's something internal to the engine. I'm curious what was packed with grease in the distributor. If I remember correctly only grease called for is a very small amount of the pivots of the centrifugal advance. I would set it up to TDC on #1, pull the distributor out of the block and see what is going on.
  12. P15-D24

    I am at a cross road

    My .02 worth... Convert to 12 volts, not a big deal, many have done it. (Just make sure your wringing is in good servicable condition) Convert to more modern u-joint set up. Again, not a big deal, many have done it. The engine, with a good rebuild should last no problem. Big issue with any tow rig is heat and that is what will cause other problems. Make sure your temp gauge is accurate. Sounds like your override has some mechanical issues and needs repair. Have you downloaded the factory manual off the Downloads page? Again, I wouldn't tow in overdrive, think your going to push the engine RPMs down to far and out of the power band.
  13. P15-D24

    I am at a cross road

    Couple things, first overdrive and towing not a good idea. Second, 4.1 is way better for a tow vehicle. Regarding the u-joints, either they were installed incorrectly or consider upgrading to a more modern (and serviceable) setup. And good local drive line company should be able to take care of the job, or check POC or Hemmings. Your fuse problem has nothing to do with towing, just work the issue. In the Downloads section is a wiring diagram. It is a pretty simple circuit and shouldn't be that hard to trouble shoot. (I suspect a shorted field coil in the solenoid.) You never mention the weight of the trailer, or if you have any braking issues. ( If your going to do this a lot I would probably add surge brakes on the trailer, or convert to 12v and got with electrics.) The 6 to 12 volt light switch problem is easy, just get a set of magnetic clip ons for when you run with 6 volts. Also any issues with overheating? A good engine will run all day long at 3500 rpm and that should be good for 60-65 on flat roads. Solving all of these will still be cheaper than dong a swap to a Chevy 6 which I don't think will buy you much if anything. If your going to do a swap go to a VB. I've personally twice towed my boat (2k pounds) to a lake in the Sierras at 7,600 feet in over 100 degrees temperature. Actually pretty extreme, wasn't fast or comfortable, but we made it both times without any issues. Radiator got pretty hot, but didn't boil over, and brakes were a little sketchy in a couple sections coming down the mountain, but in the valley we were running 60 all day on the interstate. This was without an overdrive, stock P15 three speed.
  14. P15-D24

    Engine pre-oiling

    Assembly lube is good for a revolution or two at most. Factory manual recommends using an external pre lube system. TO do the job right you need one of these:
  15. P15-D24

    251 engine bearing part #?

    Uploaded now.
  16. CHRYSLER-DODGE Block Forge By Numbers.PDF View File Listing of engine block forge numbers for Chrysler made products Submitter P15-D24 Submitted 08/22/2018 Category Reference Information  
  17. P15-D24

    251 engine bearing part #?

    Must be a brain fart. I'll see if I can find it and upload it.
  18. P15-D24

    251 engine bearing part #?

    Should have a casting number towards the rear on the distributor side. In the downloads section is a list of block/casting numbers.
  19. P15-D24

    251 engine bearing part #?

    Casting number on the block? Terril or Vintage Power Wagon should be able to help.
  20. P15-D24

    Classified ads

    Just respounded to your note. After you fill out the form with your ad info and click on “Save Ad” a new page appears with your billing address, check box to agree on Terms and conditions and a button for “Place order and pay”. Clicking on “Place order and pay” button will take you to the credit card processor web site. Make your payment and that’s it.
  21. Double clutching is the easy way. If you practice you can shift up and down without using the clutch. Just have to match the engine speeds while shifting. Once you get the hang of it you will only need the clutch for starting and stopping. You would only use the compound low for stating out when you have a heavy load, lot easier on the clutch.
  22. 3/4 T did not use a floater, only the one tons. Difference from the 1/2 tons is the 3/4 T axle has more splines. Other than that is is just like the 1/2 axle.
  23. Check the front and back motor mounts. It would have tubeless rims. 225 tire is about the widest you want to go. It I was doing it again I would go back down to a 205 tire. The "C" is a 3/4 ton model.
  24. P15-D24

    Thinking About Selling Most of My Parts

    Locking, starting to look like an ad.
  25. P15-D24

    ? for auto electricians out there.

    Instrument Services in IL, will convert to update internals.

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