P15-D24

I think the build card has paint codes.

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Got to Resources -> Downloads-> Reference Info ->Bulb http://p15-d24.com/files/file/2-bulbpdf/

Got to Resources -> Downloads-> Reference Info -> aftermarket turn signal wiring diagram http://p15-d24.com/files/file/6-aftermarket-turn-signal-wiring-diagram/

Good tool for finding out where emails originate: http://www.ip-tracker.org Some scammers will try to spoof their location but most of the time you can at least verify what they tell you.

Can you post a link to the ad. I didn't see the ad.

Welcome to the community. Jump over to the Member Map and post your location and see who else is in your neck of the woods.

3 speeds usually had syncros on 2 and 3. 4 Speeds were available both ways, most being non syncro. I believe syncro 4 speeds were offered as an option starting around 52.

Tell them to check this site in the Resources -> Tech -> Brakes section

Welcome and nice ride!

http://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/reference/maintenance.html

Having done both methods the manual method does not come close to providing a correct brake adjustment. I have down the manual adjustment then readjusted with a gauge, the results is significantly higher pedal any more effective braking action. As PA noted you really need to get full contact of the brake shoes to get best brake action.

Congratulation and great addition to your herd!

Factory installation instructions are on the Downloads page.

It a looks like a full floater rear axle, no puller required. Just remove the 8 bolts and slide the axle out. Then remove the nut that holds the drum. (You may need a deep socket to get it off) Invest in a service manual for your truck so you have the specs correctly.

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If you are talking about the leather cover on the clutch arm (Seal 6-23-3 in the pic above) it mounts to a rectangle metal frame with small bend over "teeth" to hold it. On the Downloads page is a pattern for making the leather cover.

If it is a different part number it is different then what you need. Trim parts are usually unique to a model or series. To find what will interchange you best bet is Hollanders Interchange manual. It covers items like glass, body panels and mechanical components.

Start looking for a leak. Don's point in post #26 is spot on. I would suggest cleaning off every fitting with alcohol, pump up the system then inspect each one for a weep. Also check your rears for leaks.

Remember what you are doing, centering the shoes to the axle. The arm (with dial indicator) pivots around the shoe allowing you to measure the distance from the center of the axle to different locations on the shoe. With the major and minor adjusters you move the toe or heel of the shoe in/out until you have the shoe entirely centered. Move the dial gauge to the location your adjusting and you can measure the amount needed to move. The other piece to this process is you need to determine the max diameter of the drum with a drum gauge before starting the adjustment. Then set the shoes to that diameter less the clearance, typical .006. This way the drum will just slide on after the adjustment. It's actually a pretty quick process once you understand the objective, centering the shoes with .006 clearance from the drum. Couple other tips, make sure our drums are true, if not get them turned on a brake lathe. If the drum is out of round you will never get the brakes adjusted correctly. Lastly, I don't recommend the process mentioned in post #37. It will not give you anywhere near full braking capability. If you do that process , then adjust them correctly you will be very surprised by how much more braking capability you have.

Start here http://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/tech/brakes.html

Welcome to the community!

We had a brief site outage (20-30 minutes) this afternoon. Cause was a hardware failure at the ISP hosting site. All site functions have been restored.

My 0.02 worth... Lose the black front fenders Not a fan of your tire selection, just don't work with this vintage of truck. If you want to do the black vendor accent I would limit it to the side of the fender and extend it to bottom half of the door. (Ala Spring Special)

Pull the plugs, then pull the front valve cover and verify you can identify TDC on #1. As you manually turn the engine over it will be pretty obvious when it is at TDC with both valves closed. Then static time it to TDC or a 3-5 degrees advanced. Did you inspect/replace rotor and cap or the plug wires?