P15-D24

Factory paint chips cards in the vehicle reference section of the site. Resources -> Reference -> P15 Reference.

Distilled is the only way to go.

And make sure the correct bulbs are installed. Most of the time dim tail lights are caused by 12 volt bulbs in a 6 volt system.

Never know, maybe a PO put the wrong size brake shoes! Stranger things have happened!

Your on thin ice due to the type of welsh plug used. I wouldn't go over 4-5 lbs. I have seen them fail.

Rear drum sits on a tapered rear axle that should require a puller to remove. I suspect that won't be required on yours. Maybe the keyway is missing which is why it is sitting incorrectly.

Tod is correct, you need a Hollanders that covers both donor and destination vehicles. I'm out of state right now so maybe another member can help that has the correct manual(s).

I would check Hollanders. What year are the vehicles involved?

Look at a parts book and make sure all the parts are properly attached.(I.E., springs...)

Quick thanks to Adam for taking the lead in setting up the original version of this feature!

The 1 ton I picked up for parts was a 3 speed syncro. Think it was an option from the crash box. Per Don's post it looks like the PO didn't really understand the problem and tried some bandaids for a fix. You need to go through the cooling system. If you are getting air bubbles in the water the head gasket may have already failed.

If it is a three speed it won't have a syncro on first, just second and third. If it is a 4 speed, up and left should be compound low. On your cooling issues check the Tech TIps section. (Resources -> Tech -> Tech TIps. Their is a section on cooling system check out and another on replacing the the water distribution tube. If it is actually running that hot I would do a full cooling system overhaul. Pull the freeze plugs and water distribution tube and totally flush the block. Have the radiator cleaned and flushed. Pull the stat and replace. Pull the water pump and check for proper operation/or replace. Replace the hoses. Then you will never have to deal with the problem again. The danger with the engine running that hot is it is common for the head gasket to fail or the head gets warped.

212 is basically boiling over. Way to hot. Should be 160 normally. They are non -pressurized cooling systems. If is is a 4 speed with the compound low it is probably a crash box, no syncros, Learn to double clutch, or better learn how to shirt without the clutch other than starting and stopping. And welcome to the site!

It's being rewritten.

I would use the standard B&B.

Welcome to the site!

We actually have it pretty easy when it comes to getting our projects back on the road. Even though we are working on 60 year old technology original factory documentation is readily available. Original and reproduction shop manuals, parts books, factory technical training material are available from many parts suppliers. Think about how difficult it would be if you didn't have any reference information and everything was passed by word of mouth (or the internet)! So what should you have in your garage library? First two purchases should be a factory service manual and factory parts book for your vehicle. The factory service manual typically has wear limit specifications so you can determine when service is needed, general maintenance and tune-up specs and the the proper process for different repairs. A careful reading of the service manual before you start a repair is recommended as many times tips are provided to make the job easier or expose some less than obvious service procedure. The proper replacement of valve guides (they don't all go in the same way) or the correct process for lubing rear axle bearings comes to mind. It should be at your side when you are working on a repair. The gold mine for me is the factory parts manual. It answers many, many questions about what is the right part, what will interchange (mopar factory part number), how does this go back together (exploded diagrams) and what options were available. When I took ownership of my first P15 their was a steel bracket in the trunk. It was about 5" long, couple holes drilled in it with some angle cuts. No idea where it came from or it's purpose. Years later when I finally discovered a factory parts manual I figured it out. It was the bracket that held the spring so the clutch rod would fully return. (bracket 6-27-6 in the illustration) It held the spring that kept the rod (6-24-1) from falling out of the lever to activate the clutch! Because the lever had fallen out many times I had ended up taking a throttle spring and wrapping it around the clutch shaft to hold the spring in place. Many of us are the victims of the actions of previous owners and the results ending up in the trunk. A parts book is like having a native guide to find the path back to way the factory originally put it together. The parts book also lists factory mopar part number. This is critical for finding parts with many vendors that stock their inventory by factory part number, not application. With a factory parts number you can use a site like PartVoice.com to search many suppliers at once for a part. Another really helpful book is a Hollanders Interchange manual. They cover different years (I use a '40 to '56 version) and are a wealth of information you won't find anywhere else. Originally targeted for garages and junkyards they basically list what parts will interchange with other cars. Will a club coupe rear window fit a sedan? What ignitions can I swap? What are the bearing numbers I need for the front wheels? I would also add an owners manual to the list of must haves. It provides basic operation instructions, maintenance and care information for a driver unfamiliar with '40s-'50s technology. To finish out the library I would add sales literature for my vehicle, paint chips and some third party reference info. For example, Bunns B Series book is a fantastic resource for truck owners loaded with factory pictures. For more wrench turning support a Chiltons or Motors manual provides practical "how to" information. Stockel's Auto Service and Repair is also a great reference guide. To help you get started building out your garage library three of our site sponsors, Andy Bernbaum Auto Parts, MoParMall.com and Vintage Power Wagons have extensive in-stock inventory of factory manuals, part books, owners manuals and associated literature. Check them out now! Now it's your turn. What have you added to this list as a must have book for your shop?

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Welcome back! The '41 is really sharp!

To PA's point, eBay is strewn with the rusting hulks of similar projects that overwhelmed their owners skill and finances...

Looks like a 1 ton to me. Six bolt lugs on the wheels?

I don't think so. As Jim Y. noted usually they are drilled for both clutch sizes. Don't know why they have different part numbers, maybe thickness is slightly different?

Welcome to the site!

True if they have the same size clutch. Different part number for the 11" clutch than the standard clutch. If both have the 11" clutch they are a straight swap also.