timkingsbury

This was my Dad's original 1938 Desoto - Plymouth Approved Service Dealer Sign. My Grandfather had a later Desoto- Plymouth sign and a Chrysler - Fargo Trucks sign hanging on the outside of his shop, which he built after he retired from Chrysler Corporation. It was a 42" sign and of course Dad always admired it. When Grandfather passed away the signs were sold at auction and the pair sold for $18,500 and after their sale Dad almost immediately started looking for one. Years later on his first trip to our friend George Asche's he smiled when he saw George had one hanging on his garage. I took a picture of the pair of them in front of the garage and it became one of Dad and George's favourite pictures. The meeting of the Northern and Southern Flathead Mopar minds. In any case, it would be about a decade later when Dad would finally see one come up for auction and of course it wound up costing more than did the one that sold at Grandfathers Auction. During the lead up to the auction it came to light that dealer sign was an original 1938 sign and as we checked out the sign measured it, and then compared it to the one that sold at Grandfathers sale, there was indeed a slight difference in size. Grandfathers was 42" and this one was 45". Grandfathers, well it had made its way back to Chrysler and was on display at the Walter Chrysler Museum. Given its age, it was in remarkable conditions when found (see picture of the pre-restoration sign) but after speaking to George who wished he had restored the enamel instead of painting its spots missing enamel, and speaking to the Curator at the Walter Chrysler museum it was decided to have it restored by the best we could find. It underwent a world class restoration on the few areas that needed attention, by the leading enamel sign restoration company, Don Van Kannel - Van Kannel Sign Restoration and it is in absolutely spectacular condition. Sadly its restoration would take a number of years, and Dad would pass away without ever seeing it finished. The family has wrestled with keeping it, or selling it. It had been appraised at $15,000 prior to it being restored and with the restoration cost, the imminent sale of Mom and Dad's place it really didn't make sense to keep it. So we put it up for sale and also consigned it to a large automotive memorabilia auction. We got a few people express interest, and a couple of trade offers, but nothing serious, so off it went to the automotive memorabilia auction with no reserve but a guarantee for the auction company on the minimum sale price. As our luck has seem to have gone lately, the sign appeared to sell at the auction for well above the guarantee the auction company had provided us. But a couple of days after the auction we were told that the buyer had failed complete the sale. Grrrrrrr, what else can you say. So the Sign went up for sale on this week Ebay and locally. Here is the listing - and the current bid is $17,250 (a verified buyer with a 5780 rating) http://www.ebay.com/itm/252734854732?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 We have put it up for sale at less that we (Dad) had in the sign, but it needs a new home and we would really like to see it go to a new home. We might consider a trade for something, but it will need to be something one of the family wants, and then they will put the cash into the estate. If you have any questions feel free to drop me a note at fargopickupking@yahoo.com Thanks for your time Tim Kingsbury

Update: To all the kind words we have received over the years and since this post thank you. The AoK intake setup is on its way to Gary Street for those of you wondering if its still for sale or who got it. Oh and yes, it was spoken for pretty much within an hour of it being listed with a few backup homes looking to Adopt the Piece of History! So you missed out on our last (and most likely final) run of AoK intakes and are kicking yourself. Unlike other times over the last 30 years, we stopped taking names for a waiting list as George Asche Jr is now 90 years old, and while he is still unbelievable active, he is moving more to small projects, 1 and a time. While I (Tim Kingsbury) could continue on, I think after 30 years of giving back to the hobby and not making a dime on intakes, its time for me to concentrate on my own projects, as life is too often shorter than we expect. In that vein one of the guys who purchased an AoK dual carb intake for the 23 1/2" Mopars (201, 217 (that a lot call a 218) and 230 engines), got it a couple of years ago, then found his dream car, a 1948 Plymouth business coupe. He send his intake back to use as he was not sure if he would be putting it on a preww2 car or truck or a post ww2 car when he bought it. Of course the AoK intake was designed and created so it can be used for inboard or outboard linkage as well as a mounting spot for the pivot points on trucks or preww2 cars.. It is the only multi carb intake ever made for a 23 1/2' motor ever made to easily accommodate both. George rebuilt him to Siamese twin Carter Ball and Ball Carbs, created the linkage for a post WW2 car, then setup and aligned everything so its ready to mount on a car. The customer wanted a "back woods" look and asked if George could put something special like a copper space or something for his project. If you look close at the 1st two pictures, George did make a subtle piece of copper to try and give him that look. The project was finished and sent back to the customer. Sadly, shortly after getting back the intake he fell ill and has since passed away. His widow called me, .let me know the Plymouth has been sold to someone in Europe but they didn't want any of the spare parts and she wondered if we would consider buying back the intake, carbs and linkage. I am not going to go to deep into the families challenges, except to say she needed to try and gather up as much cash as she could not that her husband had passed and the realization that his life insurance was not going to keep them in the house they have and the life style they once had. Without hesitation I asked her what he had in the project. He has supplied the carbs for George to rebuild, which were super nice to start with, just had been on a shelf for a long time. She had receipts and what he had in the intake, carbs, linkage as seen in pictures 1 and 2 is $1600. That is what I paid for it, plus shipping to me and that is what I will sell it for. The last picture shows what the intake is like with headers made from a stock exhaust by George Asche Jr. They don't come with the intake, nor did he has a pair. But if you wanted a set made we can get you a set made for $195 plus shipping, using your supplied exhaust. You can also use Fenton reproduction headers, or whatever you like. So the 1st one to reach out, with $1650.00 usd will own the intake, carbs and linkage all set up ready to mount on a 23 1/2' flathead mopar that has linkage coming across the head. Shipping inside Canada or the USA will be $50 usd for Postal Ground service. If you prefer to use your carrier or express shipping, that is no problem and will be done at cost. Reach out to me at Fargopickupking@yahoo.com if you want it.. Remember, there is only 1 of these, so when its gone its gone! Tim ps: If you want to know more about the intake and its development, you can find lots of articles on this blog. Here is a good one to start with

Sunday February 6 2022 - Guess who turns 90 today ? The answer to that question is - George Asche Jr, born February 6th 1932! Here is an great article that was published in the local paper earlier this week, celebration "The Nifty at 90 - George" If you want to call George and wish him a Happy Birthday, his number is 814-354-2621 although around 4pm on his birthday he likely wont be answering the phone until 7pm. I cant confirm or deny there maybe a Birthday Party, but I can confirm there will be cake! If he asks you who told you it was his Birthday and you want to get a chuckle, tell him - "It was your 3rd son", which will get a smile from him as that is often how he introduces me. For those wondering if George is still active these days, the answer is - "Heck yes" - he is still doing what he loves every single day. Here is a little video when I was down before Christmas. I was down for a few days and he rebuild an overdrive, finished off an engine rebuild doing the assembly of the engine, and rebuild 3 carbs. In the video he was mounting 3 rebuilt carbs on one of our AoK triple intakes, and making some modification to some linkages that came from a customers previous intake and what I wanted to document was how to setup and adjust up 3 carbs all operating on a common rail. What it will show is not only how to do that, but also shows George still at it and going strong. Oh and yes for those with a close eye, that is a copy of the poster that was on the back of the door at my Grandfathers office at the Chrysler Engine plant. The poster which was made in late 1951 was announcing the new Hemi for the Dodge Truck line and introduction of the factory dual carb and dual exhaust on the 265 ci motor. I will attach a copy of that poster at he bottom of this post.

The number under the water pump means nothing concerning size of the engine, that is for sure. The head, as I said, same part number over several years. Without seeing the underside your not going to get any further information, sorry. The bombardier well your could remove the pan and check the part number on the crank and rods. Beyond that its just speculation on what it is. What was originally in a late 50s bombardier was a 265, but there were 251s in smaller ones and I have seen many times when we have pulled the engine it turned out to have come from a car or truck, so based on what your telling me only a part number is going to help us. On the sum and pan, you can change the pickups and pans to have back, front or center pickups. the pans are interchangeable depending on the application. You just need to remember to also change the pickup if you change the pan. Tim

There are over 60 cam patterns for industrial engines. It all depends on what horsepower was required and for a 265 that ranged from 80hp to 120hp, what rpm the engine is going, and what the gallons per 8 hour shift target is. An industrial engine typically can be a low as an operating rpm of 1450 rpm. a lot little higher in the 1800 rpm and rarely is anything over 2400 rpm. It is not just the cam, they will also use a lower compression head often times. In your case a 1959 industrial 265 tell me it more likely is in a combine, swather, harvester, tow motor or airplane tug. By 1959 the 251 industrial out sold the 265. Your 1948 238 ci motor would be likely from a truck and the lift would be the same as most of the 1959 265 engines, although the duration will be less. You will also find the head of the industrial is less compression than the 1948 238 motor.

1) A D49 is a 1954 dodge car engine serial number 2) Under the water pump stamped number - do you have a picture ? 3) March 18th 1957 the block was cast. So most likely a replacement block that a dealer or rebuilder both the internals over and stamped the block with the d49 serial number 4) crank cap number is over several years so not really relevant 5) Head number also over several years. I could look it up to see if it what it was for. If it was off the engine a picture of the chamber would be easier for me to tell which year. 6) distributor number irrelevant. 7) no , but if you have the pan off the part number is on the crank and rods. That would tell you. 8-) a late 50s bombardier could be a 250/251 or 265 but see next point The thing I would do for the bombarder is pull the brass plug over cylinder #6. put down a small rod, turn the motor over with a bar measuring the distance between top dead center and bottom dead center. 4 1/2" is a 250/251 and 4 3/4" is a 265 and for your d49 if its 4 1/4" stroke is a 238 ci motor. Chrysler referred to vehicle version of the 4 1/2" stroke ( 3 7/16" bore ) as a 250 an the industial as a 251. Same bore and stroke. The reason why is the cams are always different on the industial. The head can be different (usually lower compression) and the valves can be thicker stemmed sodium cooled which are low rpm valves for engines that are run constantly. another note: a 250/251 has to be 1946 or newer in anything civilian. 265 has to be september 1951 or newer. Tim Kingsbury fargopickupking@yahoo.com

The good news is the A833 options is still very much available. My dad Eddy put one in my Mom's 1956 Fargo in 1975, and George Asche and my Dad were great friends and George has been making the adapter plates for over 30 years now in two formats. 1 for a pickup and 1 for the car bell housing. You can find that option elsewhere on my blog. He has sold hundreds of them and still does, so if that is a direction someone wants to take, that is still available today.

I completely understand and while its easy for me to lay my hand on an r10g1 or a straight 3 speed, its not something i personally need and so its tough to devote the time to it as i just have too much to deal with these days. I do hope you have a treatment plan for the Lyme disease as it can be a huge issue and sometimes people are tested several times, it shows negative and then all of a sudden they test positive. I have had a few close friends get it and the longer it takes to diagnose it the tougher it is to tackle and though there are several antibiotics approved in the states for it. Im sure you have done the search many times although like so much there is as much misinformation as information. But trusted sources are out there Treatment for erythema migrans | Lyme Disease | CDC

Im sorry to hear that Paul, but believe me I completely understand. On the air cleaner, that is a reasonable target. The challenge is most air filters are made off shore where you need to over thousands to make the project viable. This project just is not going to be of a scale that your going out to place the minimum order quantities in the thousands, which means a much smaller run and cost for tooling and dies for the run that has to be spread over the run. I know what the star tops costed, which was a buddy that owns a manufacturing company who when asked if he could make them, he said let me get back to you. Next thing he showed up with tops and had invested a stupid amount in tooling to produce them. Of course he wanted a set and one of our AoK triples so that was his motivation, more than trying to make it a profitable or even a break even project. For the offset bases that direction wont work so the search is on for a few different options to make something of a decent quality which we can add a commercially available air filter element and a star top. The idea of having them so that they are ready to paint or powder coat is likely a good suggestion as you are right a lot of people might like them the same color as their car.

With that feel free folks, if you have a floor shift concept that works for a straight 3 speed or a r10g1 overdrive (That came in the 1952-56 Plymouth that are so popular from the 1939 - 1956 cars) post away!

Hello folks - Back in 2017 I started a thread on floor shift concepts. It kicked off with Paul Flaming @pflaming who had made a shifter for a straight 3 speed. He was planning to work on a version for an overdrive and got a prototype which was a 2 shifter concept. The other one was Ron Allworth's who had made one for a buddy. He had gave consideration to try and make production versions but the demand wasnt there, a lot of people were really hoping for something for the r10g1 Overdrive version and to be honest Ron is always swamped with CoolViewThermostat.com Your can always check out that original blog and comments through this link. Recently the thread drew some revised interest and I decided to circle back with Paul and Ron to see if they had done anything further. While neither really have Ron Allworth was so kind to forward his original hand drawing he made when he was making the shifter for his buddy. He said - "I think this is pretty much all someone would need to reproduce what I did. Feel free to post the drawings, but unfortunately I just don't have time to help anyone if they decide to build one"... "i know as previous comments, it's somewhat over engineered but you can be as hard on it as you want when you shift and it wont break." With that - here is Ron's sketches The shift pattern is standard, reverse is left and forward, 1st is left and back. 2nd is straight forward and 3rd is straight back. Oh and if you want to check our Ron's other cool stuff here is a link for that Cool-View: Transparent Thermostat Housing (coolviewthermostat.com) Picture 1 of 7 Page 2 of 7 Page 3 of 7 Page 4 of 7 Page 5 of 7 Page 6 of 7 Page 7 of 7 His final product Finally, if you make one based on Ron's design, please post up some pictures on the thread below!

I think you will find there are members who have logged in with a username and password, that have not logged in with an email address for years and now cant log in. Potentially because they no longer have the original email address they used to sign in. Best bet to email you at info@p15-d24.com ? i know at least two members - 50plymouth being one emailed me saying they couldnt log on and wanted to comment on a post on my blog. Tim

*** note: Hang in there and at the bottom of this article, you will be asked if you have any interest in a potential new product. For now over 30 years we have been making AoK Triple carb intakes for the 25 1/2" Canadian flathead engine, found in Chryslers from 1937, Desoto's from late 37/38, and Canadian built Dodge /Fargo trucks, Plymouth, Dodge cars since 1936. Prior to that George Asche has been making triples from factory intakes from both the American 23 1/2" platform, the American 24 - 24 3/4" platform and the Canadian 25 1/2" platform from the early 1950s. As well renowned performance intake manufacturer made a Triple carb intake for the 25 1/2" motor starting in 1952 and of course when Chrysler came out with the optional factory dual carb, dual exhaust options on trucks for the 25 1/2" platform, almost immediately car enthusiasts were trying to put them on cars. Of course the governors and balance tube made it tough to get under the hood but they made it happen on stock cars and I will attach a picture of the factory intake and then the "modified version" that was used on a vintage stock car. For all of those Air cleaners are always a big topic. Air cleaners for both cosmetic purposes and of course for functionally removing dirt from the air become the reason, but in many cases the challenge is to get them to fit in the engine bay. Lets start with my 1949 Plymouth, which is a Canadian built car that came from the factory with the 25 1/2" motor, and when we put the Aok triple on it. The 1st two pictures was the very day that was done and joined the "what air cleaner can I use club" So I measured from the firewall to the middle of the carb. You can see that picture here and the paper was because to cover the hole where the cardboard air duct had been. Like lots I looked at various 3 1/4 - 3 1/2" air cleaners and the one that was marked 4" actually wouldnt fit as it was actually 4 9/16" So he hunt was on, and I found 3 vintage Edmunds air cleaners which after some searching found that the 4" air cleaner cartridges for a VW fit perfectly. On they went Side view of the AoK triple on my 1949 Plymouth Almost immediately I was asked where I had gotten them and could they get a set. Of course finding the original Edmunds was next to impossible. Over the next year I lent my intakes to someone who then copied them and they are in fact available today. Here is the Eddy Edmunds 1952 - "Edmunds Racing" triple carb intake for the 25 1/2" motor. Where we put the triple of our dragster, we didn't have the firewall restrictions so we were able to move up to 6" air cleaners. when your do the calculations there is a huge difference between a 4" and 6" air cleaner and we could see on the dyno, but of course I had access to air filter engineering test equipment and it was unbelievable the difference between the 2, never mind when we tested some of the so called 4" air cleaners which were really 3 1/4" and 3 1/2" air cleaners. Here is a closer look at that air cleaner which is actually 6 1/2" air cleaner. Here is the factory dual carb intake I referenced and then the modified version to get it under the hood of a car. This being the factory air cleaner for the dual carb setup but they maybe the rarest of the rare for mopar air cleaners This being a reproduction of a 1930s Mopar aair cleaner which was later used by the 1951 GMC pickups and in the late 1940s and early 1950 Fords, We had the star tops made and chromed or powder coated. This allowed to use a modern air cleaner element. Here is one of the original 1930s air cleaner. Of course the air cleaner as much as I would love to have it on my 1949 Plymouth, or my buddy George Asche Jr would love to have it on his prized 1929 Desoto, they just wont work without a major firewall modification. George as you will see here has run the Edmunds Racing intake since 1954 and it was instrumental to his going undefeated in 1954 on Daytona Beech on the famed flying mile drag race course. Hitting 142 mph over the course George stunned those running everything from the hot v8s of the day, Hemi's, a hot rod Lincoln dragster to a v12 Jaguar. Of course George knew if you remove the air cleaners, as much as that put the engine at great risk, the increase in performance was obvious. Over the years I have often toyed with the idea of offsetting the larger 6" or 6 1/2" air cleaners to get the major increase in air surface and in some cases even with dual carb intakes the offset is needed to avoid conflicts under the hood. A few years ago a customer we were doing an engine for, took a sketch I made, our stop air cleaner creations and created 6 offset air cleaners. Here are those prototypes Which if you look closely you will notice they will sit nicely on the flare top carter ball and ball carbs. Which allow you to use the factory air cleaner clamps for a super snug fit Here is the prototype sitting on my 1949 Plymouth This is just a mock up but you will notice the 6 1/2" air cleaner fit perfectly and is no closer to the firewall that the original Edmunds Air Cleaners. Now the creator of the original prototype found out just how big of an undertaking the offset base was to make and really had no interest in making any more and believe me I tried. In fact I chose not to mention him here, not in an effort to avoid giving him credit, but because naming him could wind up unleashing the masses trying to pester him to make "just one more set" for them. At this point I could just leave it be, have the 3 air cleaners finished and given to George Asche Jr for his 90th birthday and the other 3 finished up and place on our 1936 Fargo which although rock stock internally, sports an AoK triple and a set of George's headers made from factory exhaust manifolds like my 1949 Plymouth. BUT... and it is a Big but, that really isnt the AoK style to make something that no one can ever have. To that (and congratulations if you have read through this book to this point.... lol) another AoK customer and Flathead Mopar super fan has decided to join forces and see if he can get the offset air cleaner bottoms made. In this case, he is well versed with the manufacturing world both in the United States, Canada, off shore in the orient and down under in Australia. i know there is massive amount of interest, but and again its a big but, at what price is that interest ? I know if they were $10 we could sell, oh about a million of them, and if they were $1500 for one we would sell pretty close to 0. I say pretty close because I know a couple of guys who have already offered me a ridiculous amount of money to scoop 3 of the ones I just had powder coated. I also know how pricy it is to create the star tops and those air cleaners without the offset are in the $150 range. It is possible that the offset bottoms could be sold just as a bottom where a customer could do their own air cleaner element and top or as a complete air cleaner. I can tell you if we can make these cheap, as in low cost and high quality we will, but at the end of the day demand will determine if the project gets off the ground. If your interested, drop me a PM here or a note to me at fargopickupking@yahoo.com. Of course is your interested at the $$ below what the current off shore bottoms with hose clamp connection, replaceable elements & star top air cleaners, sorry but at this point I don't think there is a need to get in touch with us, because unless something unforeseen happens I don't see that happening. Thanks - AoK boys

Thanks to Shirley aka Plymouth#43 who called me to wish me a Happy New Years, and reminded me that I was supposed to put up a couple of pictures of earlier overdrives, I have updated the original rough spotters guide blog entry with a bunch more pictures and a little more information. Primarily on the mounting of the emergency brake cable with up and including 1937 was on the right side and then for the 1938 model year the emergency brake was mounted on the left side. Which of course was the answer to the question - "for my new 1937 overdrive should it not have a floor mounted emergency brake" and the answer was that yes for 1937 for the emergency/parking brake was floor mounted and the mount was on the right side of the brake drum. Of course right side is determined when a driver in North America is sitting in the car. In north american that would see the driver sitting in the left side of the car and the passenger on the right hand side. Of course if your in England, Australia etc, the driver is sitting in the right side of the car, but their right arm is of course, still on the right side. In other words labelling things as drivers side and passenger side can be problematic, but if you are thinking of sitting in the car and facing the front windshield, no matter what the configuration of the driver and passenger is, the right side is always the right side. Thanks Shirley and looking forward to seeing the 1937 soon !

You can also swap your tranny out, put in an Aluminum A833 4 speed which is floor shift and gives you overdrive . Same blog just a different topic.

The person who made that, made it as a 1 off and didnt express any interest in making more. The one at the top of the thread was made by pflaming - P15-D24.com and Pilot-house.com and I cant tell you if he would have interest in helping you make the floor shift for what is normally a column shift tranny.

Well folks as 2021 starts to wind down we reflect on the 2nd year challenging year us a row under a global pandemic. With now over 5,412,000 dead world wide, over 837,000 dead in the USA, over 30,000 dead in Canada, 2% of everyone who gets it dies and just over 24 million active cases in the world right now, of which just over 11 million of those are in the USA it’s a very challenging and stressful time. While its easy to get caught up in the effects on our lives from unable to get things that are stuck in transit somewhere, or getting things accomplished as things that used to take a couple of weeks or a month, now take months and months it pales in comparison when it’s a friend of loved one that gets Covid19 and dies, or even when they have long term health issues. Sadly this year we saw friends and loved ones get sick from Covid19 and we buried far to many, not to mention many remain with long term health issues. The pandemic has worn down so many of us ,who have tried to stay safe, or there were too many who bought into some conspiracy crap floating around on social media which collectively has seen the current variants of Delta and Omicron to run rampant. While Canada is now at 90% vaccinated, the USA remains around 70% and while there is not over 8.9 billion doses of Covi19 Vaccines administered around the world, collectively the world is at jut 57.3% vaccinated which has left a great breeding ground for new varriants. On a positive note, this year, at least around us in both Rural Pennsylvania and Rural Ontario (Canada) there has been some return to normal things, like Santa Claus parades, Cities and Towns lit up every night with fabulous Christmas light displays. While School kids and churches are not putting on Christmas plays and pageants to as they once did, it is great to see that thanks to vaccines there can be something close to a normal Christmas for the kids. Santa Claus and the elves at he Magical North Poll as now resting, and everyone enjoying their Christmas day. For the hockey fans counting down the outs until the IIHF U20 World Junior Hockey Championship tournament begins tomorrow…. Lol sorry had to throw in some Canadian Hockey influence here.. and visions of getting your vintage Mopar out next spring are dancing in the heads of many enthusiasts. I am sure every Mopar fan made a list of parts they hoped to find under their tree this Christmas and our apologies, if you got an AoK IOU under your tree this morning for something. Like so many, we continue to be waiting in some cases 9-12 months for things that pre-pandemic took weeks or a month or two. I do know in 2021 the AoK boys did ship a record amount of stuff to the North Pole this year, subcontracted by Santa for some of those harder to find Mopar items that Santa’s elves have a difficult time to make! Lol On behalf of the Asche family; George Jr (who turns 90 in February 2022), his sons George III & Rob, the Kingsbury family; Tim and his son Dan collectively known as the AoK boys we wish one and all a Very Merry Christmas and a Happy, Prosperous & Healthy New Years!

1st we should start about heating intakes, and to make it easy this is primarily about Chrysler/Dodge/Fargo/Desoto/Plymouth intakes on Flathead (L-Head) engines from the 1930s-1950s and I would also refer you to read my article on multiple carbs. Chrysler Corporation was building cars and trucks to run 12 months a year and under conditions that range wildly in terms of how hot, how cold the climate was as well as different levels above sea level. This is going To be at a more high-level basis, because clearly a difference between Alaska or the Yukon in January which has been as low as minus 80Ff/62.2C and the average temperature in Florida in January, or even the coldest which was minus 2 degrees Fahrenheit. It was recorded at a Tallahassee station on Feb. 13, 1899 And of course summer time temperatures at either, or out in the desert. Had Chrysler built engines to operate on nice spring, summer and fall days between 60F/15.5C and 80F/26.5C they would not have created intakes and exhaust setups that they did. That is just a fact. That is important because for most vehicle owners reading this, they have a nice car or truck that they primarily use it for 3 seasons and when it’s snowing out or over 100 degrees F it’s not the normal temperature, they are operating in. What Chrysler did come up with for their 4 seasons, all weather engine setup was to bring the exhaust up close to the intake although actually put an asbestos based washer to place in between to provide slight separation of the two. When the engine is cold or cool there is a flap in the exhaust cavity connected to the intake that is in an open position, allowing a heat to rise up under the intake where the carb is. That allows the intake to quickly warm up and help the engine at start up and with the engine “warms up”. I could go into the scientific pieces behind that, but lets just leave it at that. When the exhaust reaches a certain temperature there is a coil spring which the heat effects the spring and the flap moves from the open, to the closed position, thus lowering the amount of heat going directly to the intake. This actually happens relatively quickly under the temperature ranges I described earlier and even in temperatures well below that down to freezing, it still closes relatively quick and most certainly well before the engine’s water/antifreeze temperature reaches the point where a thermostat would open. This fact become important later on in this discussion. It is very effective although 60-90 years after they came from the factory, they are often found with the coil spring gone or ceased up leaving that flap in some position between wide open and closed. If it’s closed that actually is far better than wide open. The reason being if it remains wide open after the engine is warmed up, gets into the 165-180f range continuing to toss a lot of heat at the intake will Actually, change the fuel/air mixture and not for the better and when you turn off the vehicle and then restart it after just a few minutes you may encounter what is often referred to as “fuel percolating” In winter condition and certainly in the far north in the winter, you may know or have heard of people putting cardboard or shutters in front of radiators and the reason they do that is to reduce the amount of air going through a rad and therefore slow down the cooling efficiency of the system. Even with this in place to try and bring the engine temperature up quicker and of course get it so the heater in the cab of the vehicle is working, that flap helping to warm up the intake shuts of fairly quickly. That too will be important later on. To add a little wrinkle into this discussion Chrysler actually created a factory dual intake and dual exhaust for big trucks, which often times were designed as winter plow trucks and they never had any such flaps that turn and off the exhaust heat under the intake. What they did was use a different metal allow which had aluminum as the base element in an equalizer tube and intake which both drew heat during start up. A side note here that many may not realize, the alloy the intakes were made of by Chrysler for single carb intakes changed with the metallurgy over, with things changing a great deal from preww2 and post WW2. One of the reasons was at higher elevations in the heat of the summer cast iron intakes can actually freeze up or frost up with a “refrigeration effect”. That is something Chrysler lead the industry in, while GM/Chevrolet had intakes decades later with this “freeze up” or frosting effect. It is why in my opinion the leading reason why one of the big pushers of water heating intakes comes from the GM world and their experience is limited if any with Flathead Mopar intakes and operation. Now let’s shift to the aftermarket arena and almost from the start, running multiple carbs to better balance fuel distribution and of course dual exhaust to better equalize back pressure. A could time to suggest reading my piece on multiple carbs. You will also see that - no, multiple carbs are not just for racing or super high performance. You can increase fuel economy and make an engine for more efficient with multiple carbs/ www.p15-d24.com/blogs/entry/118-single-carb-intake-dual-carb-intake-triple-carb-intake-why-not-more So now that you hopefully have read about multiple carbs and realize while yes if you were building a race engine you would want multiple carbs but if you can afford the additional carbs just the pure increase in fuel efficiency makes the modification worthwhile. Now let’s talk about the Elephant in the room, you have decided to run an aftermarket multiple carb intake. Some in the past seemed to have water heating on the outside of the intakes, while other didn’t. Edmunds had water heating and then dropped it in their late manifold for Mopar’s how come? Then the later created manifolds (post 2000) don’t seem to have water heating, like the AoK intakes. Was that because they are just for racing? The answer to that question is absolutely not, but clearly there is more to that that just No! I will explain why shortly and no, it wasn’t because we forgot about heating the intake or because it would cost more. If it had been the better thing to do, we would have done it in a New York minute! In fact, we designed both our AoK intakes for both heating of the intake and utilizing some very high-tech metallurgy that actually helps with the both overheating and with things like the frosting or freezing situation that Chevys ran/run into. Let’s start with the “really cold” outside and below 0F which of course water freezes are 32 F or 0C. Now this isn’t in the range I described earlier but let’s start here. You start up your car, likely need to use a choke to get the car to start and you have an aftermarket intake that doesn’t have a connection to the exhaust. What happens. Depending on how close the intake is to that exhaust, and what the intake is made from, there will be heat coming off the exhaust that will rise and provide heat on to the intake. Interestingly with the exhaust running under all of the intake will provide an even distribution of heat where on the original single carb setup you get more heat hitting the middle but of course that is where the 1 carb sits. On your multiple carb Setup tossing the heat just to the middle of the intake isn’t as effective. In the case of most of the aftermarket aluminum intakes, even the early ones they actually will warm up fairly quick. Certainly, faster than cast iron. The later intakes like the later generation Edmunds actually changed their aluminum mixture so that over the longer term the intake didn’t deteriorate and they actually found that mixture helped conduct heat from the exhaust quicker. But back to its “really cold” and well wouldn’t having water/antifreeze going beside the intake help warm it up? The temperature of the water/antifreeze (lets call liquid) is actually below freeze and only because off the magic of antifreeze or “colligative properties in action” that the water/antifreeze isn’t frozen. We start up the engine and while we are getting heat coming from the exhaust warming up the intake, guess what, liquid being so cold actually draws heat from the intake. Here is where the elephant has basically **** in the middle of the room. Faster than your exhaust he can heat up the intake, the liquid is drawing heat away from the intake and worse when this liquid is just running along the outside, it becomes a “heat sync” changing the temperature on the outside of the intake compared to the inside of the intake. Run that water on the underside and it becomes and even more efficient heat sync drawing more heat from the intake. In fact, by the time the engines liquid temperature has reached a point where it might actually help warm the intake, the engine would already be warmed up and running well. Now let’s move to where the thermostat opens because the engine is 160F – 185F and you are still running the liquid to the outside of the intake and guess what, you are actually introducing more heat to the intake when it doesn’t need it. As well you still have the added issue of your changing the part of the intake that has the “liquid” flowing by its vs the rest of the intake. That has a negative impact on the air/fuel mixture so unless you have a way of shutting off the flowing of the liquid you have a problem when the engine is hot, a problem that is even worse when the outside temperature is summer time hot. Even if you can figure out a way to shut of the flow of liquid going by the intake when it’s too cold or too hot which will be a big challenge, by the time the liquid is the temperature you were looking for to help heat the intake, the engine is already running well. Now in the past, provided that information, the “unnamed GM engineering guy” eventually came back with – “the other reason you want hot water running by your intake is to stuff it from icing up in the summer”. Well, if you’re running a GM with the cast iron intake, I’m not sure. nor to be honest do I care although the heating the intake with antifreeze/water in the cold concept, goes down the drain really quick because running cold liquid by, even a cast iron intake still has the heat sync issue? For a factory intake or any of the aftermarket intakes I have seen the metallurgy is such and the proximity of the exhaust to the intake is such that there is no freeze up or frosting of the intake that we have ever seen. Even at higher elevations where its more of a potential to be an issue I know of several guys running late generation Edmunds intakes and not having an issue. On our AoK intakes we used modern metallurgy magic and introduced a lot of elements that were not used in the 30s, 40s, 50s, or even the 60s and 70s. One of those is silicon. This modern alloy mixture actually helps both better utilize heat coming from the exhaust at start up, but actually repels heat when the intake reaches a certain temperature range and when it encounters conditions that will definitely see the GM ice up in the summer, the AoK intakes metallurgy makeup actually utilizes the constant exhaust heat and not only does frost up like a Chevy. lol. but actually, helps the fuel/air mix better because we have casted in end caps which promote swirl and the heat hitting the intake provides a stable environment for that to happen. They are not flathead side valve engines with 3 ports feeding 6 intake ports but even modern intakes feeding overhead valve and overhead cam 4cylinder to v8 to v10 engines are not running water/antifreeze beside or through the intake, oh and even GM has changed the mixture of metals from the cast iron mixture they used long ago. Now if you happen to have an old intake on your Mopar with a single carb on it, and you can’t turn the shaft that turns the flap or the spring steel is long gone and we have no idea whether the flap is open or closed, taking off the exhaust and closing off the gap would be a really good idea. You can buy a phenolic washer to go between the intake and carb to help stop the “percolating effect” although blocking it off or welding it shut would be a better Side topic – antifreeze and running it in an engine. REAL WORLD APPLICATION Antifreeze is the perfect example of colligative properties in action. Antifreeze is a mixture of water and ethylene glycol. The ethylene glycol is the solute. Cars typically have water in their engines to keep them cool, but if the weather outside gets below freezing, the water would freeze, expand, and crack the engine. By using antifreeze, the freezing point is lowered and the cars are able to withstand a lower outside temperature before the engines are ruined. The purpose of antifreeze is to prevent a rigid enclosure from bursting due to expansion when water freezes. Water usually freezes at about 0˚C or 32˚F, but when antifreeze is added to it that changes to being able to freeze at about -50˚F. It actually takes a long time for the antifreeze to freeze. Herein, can you freeze antifreeze? The name “antifreeze” might trick you into thinking the coolant cannot freeze at all. But in actuality, pure antifreeze, which is ethylene glycol, will freeze between zero and minus five degrees Fahrenheit. Only by mixing antifreeze with water can you lower that freezing point. Additionally, does antifreeze expand when frozen? Water is a pretty effective coolant, but if it freezes, it can expand enough to burst the rigid enclosure of an engine or electronic. To avoid icy explosions every time the temperature dips below freezing, we use antifreeze to change the water into a different chemical solution with a lower freezing point. Additionally, what temp does coolant freeze? There comes a point, however, where even antifreeze can't protect from a freeze. At -36 degrees Fahrenheit (that's -38 degrees Celsius), antifreeze and coolant will start to solidify, making it very difficult for your engine to turn over.

No problem Tony... Just calling it as I see it. if it was crap, or creating parts that there is no need for, Id have to say so.. all though as diplomatically as I can.. lol But this is truly the #1 performance offering I have seen in the last 50 years and i am including development of F-heads, and a ton of stuff that has been developed even if it was in small batches. As you know I am not a 23 1/2" platform guy but this combination of high high end rods and pistons, are just for me legendary parts. When we were building our rear engine dragster 30 years ago, if I could have gotten these for a 265 in 125 over for $10,000 I would have had a set in a New York minute. Heck I had guys back then and surprisingly recently mention a billet crank. My reply - why ? The 265 crank is forged, balanced to a gram from the factory, and I can do everything with that crank I need. Heck we paid $2500 for Venolia top fuel grade coated pistons and rings and had to buy several sets and these pistons are way above those. Not to mention Venolia is not longer in business after being the NHRA top fuel pistons source for decades.. Add this level of rods with the pistons as a "tag team" that your doing and this is incredible. Heck I would bet the farm if I put a set in a rock stock engine it would last longer, rev better and get better fuel mileage. Of course that isnt what the market it, but the point is these are parts that if back in the day from Walter Chrysler to every Engineer who was involved with Flathead (L-Head) motor could see these they would be saluting you.. So kind words.. Id say well deserved praise....

That it is.. Tony has spent a ton of time and energy with Carrillo. They are a company that get calls every day with people dreaming about custom parts but usually with no real intention to purchase them which means just to get them to work on a project like this, you need to have a major reputation, willing to spend time and money just to get them to spend time on such a project. My guess was they would cost $1000 a hole. While I am sure most will think its expensive, Tony put in the work and the costs are far less than what I expected. To put in context, the Venola Top Fuel Pistons, in our Dragster were $2400 a set of 6. That was 25 years ago and we had to buy 3 sets, so to me its a Mopar Miracle that this project became a reality.

Folks - Im excited to be able to share Tony Smith big announcement A key member of the Montana Dodge Boys involved in multiple land speed records. MONTANA DODGE BOYS VINTAGE LANDSPEED RACING - Home (fastfourspecial.com) As many know my family and friends have been known to dabble in high performance Chryslers (Desoto, Dodge, Plymouth, Fargo) engines and while the Kingsbury side of AoK racing is more 25 1/2" motor based, the Asche side of AoK racing is heavily into the 23 1/2" USA platform motors as well as the 25 1/2" Canadian motors. Im my opinion in the last 30 year our AoK intakes start the top 3 Performance Items to come to the sport in the last 60+ years and #3 best performance itens is the best intakes you could buy. Then Peter (Pedro) Hendrickson the Godfather of Dodge Fast Fours, took an aftermarket head and took it to a new level for both the 23 1/2" and 25 1/2" motors to be in my mind the #2 best performance item to improve the motors with his Edgy Aluminum heads. Im excited to share what I think is the latest of the big three and the #1 best performance item available to improve the Chrysler Flathead Platform. For now Tony Smith is coming to market with a 23 1/2" rod and piston platform. Having reviewed what he has spearheaded to bring to market, I am confident if Walter Chrysler and all his best and brightest were alive today, they would be giving a standing ovation for this development. If your looking to take your 23 1/2" flathead Plymouth/Dodge engine to the next level in performance or even want to build a long term, durable and efficient motor this is something you want to look at closely. One final comment from me before I introduce the star of this blog post - It takes demand for a quantity of customers wanting them now, to bring this type of product to market. Our AoK intakes or Peter's Edgy Aluminum heads sold out fast and currently are not available. Both of us get inquiries regularly from customers wishing they had bought them. The lesson is, Tony is coming to market with the 23 1/2" rod and pistons packages and if, there is demand, Im sure he would do the same for the 25 1/2" platform. But this is not something to "screen print" and save for future reference a few years from now. This is one of those things I would strongly suggest you jump on while you can. And now... as I stand and applaud yelling - Well done Tony well done Let me introduce for those who dont know him, Tony Smith ! Contact information: tonymontana357@hotmail.com www.facebook.com/thefreewheelingtonysmith **New Product Alert!** After over 6 months working with CP/Carrillo I can now offer a wholly modern piston and rod combo for the 230 cubic inch Mopar flathead 6's! Custom forged extra long Carrillo rods mate to very short CP pistons built on their top of the line X-forging. Smaller diameter and much shorter tool steel pins and thin modern rings round out the package and contribute to the 3/4 of a pound (346 grams) weight savings per cylinder vs. factory rods and cast pistons! Loads on the bearings and crank will be substantially reduced with this combination while increasing reliability, power limit, and RPM potential. Crowns are coated with a ceramic heat rejection coating which lowers piston temperature, helps prevent detonation, and increases combustion efficiency. Skirts are coated with a moly dry film which reduces friction and protects the skirt in events of marginal lubrication such as dry starts or high temperature operation. As the pistons are custom they can be ordered in many different oversizes, the only limitation is ring availability. Cost is $4450. $1000 non-refundable deposit is required. Remaining balance due at shipping. Lead time varies but expect to wait several months for these custom parts to be made. A lead time estimate will be provided when the purchase is made. I have received multiple inquires regarding making these for 25" engines, primarily the 265. I would be happy to offer a similar rod/piston combo for those engines. Expect the price to be within the same ballpark but with design time the first set will likely take 6+ months to deliver. New CP piston built on their top-of-the-line X forging, modern thin low drag rings, and a very short smaller diameter pin compared to the old school forged piston and ring set. The Crowns are coated with a ceramic heat rejection coating which lowers piston temperature, helps prevent detonation, and increases combustion efficiency. Skirts are coated with a moly dry film which reduces friction and protects the skirt in events of marginal lubrication such as dry starts or high temperature operation. Custom extra long Carrillo rod allows the compression height to be dramatically shortened. Factory rod (835 grams) compared to the extra long Carrillo rod (736 grams). FEA combined with modern machining makes the extra long Carrillo rod 100 grams lighter yet stronger than the factory rod. My new piston and rod combo weighs in at 1099 grams with pin, rings, and clips. That's 346 grams lighter than factory parts! Substantially lighter yet substantially stronger.

Howdy. Did you ever get your floor shift finished ?

Hi . The adapter plate will mount to a fluid drive bell housing and an a833 aluminum 4 speed will connect you to the adapter plate . BUT there is no long input shaft for an a833 transmission so it's not viable. The fluid drive and fluid drive bell housing would need to be replaced. You then need a standard flywheel , pressure plate and the a fine spline clutch . Your throw out bearing is a long one to accomodate the long transmission input shaft so the throw out bearing needs to be replaced with a straight standard throw out bearing . Sorry it's not an easy swap for a fluid drive car .

ps: The Picture of George with a "pail" of Yuengling Lager was at his 85th birthday when he literally had a sip of my beer. That was his 1st sip in 85 years and he said that for his 90th birthday he was going to have his own pail for his 2nd sip! The other guy in the picture would be his good friend and my Dad Eddy Kingsbury who for years the two actually thought Dad was 2 days older than George. It was at Chrysler Carlisle in 2007 that George and Dad were chatting with another member of the 1932 Birthday club Big Daddy Don Garlits when the 3 of them pulled out the license's and surprise, George turned out to be a few days older than Dad.... and funny enough Don who said -"yah I was born on Feb 6th 1932, looked at his drivers license and went, no I mean January 14 1932".. True story..

I thought for George's 89th Birthday I would let you folks in on a small sliver of his past. A story I am sure many of you have heard and one I have heard from both George and his Uncle Harry Hein's, the Legendary Stock car driver of Car #90. Interesting, my Dad, Eddy Kingsbury who was born less than a handful of days from George's birthday, had long before ever meeting George, heard about an old Desoto Roadster with a Chrysler 6 beating a Hemi Powered Drag Car at the Flying Mile. Yes, it is often a very small world! In any case, lets start... Once Upon a Time, It was Saturday February 6 1932 and the Toronto Maple Leafs would beat the New York Rangers that night. It would be preview of the Stanley Cup final where the Leafs would beat the Rangers to win the Stanley Cup. Also on that day, Walter Chrysler's personal 1932 Chrysler was finished, yes on Saturday and it would be delivered to him on Monday February 8th 1932. The other important story of the day, came from Pittsburgh Pennsylvania where George Asche's son and future Flathead Chrysler Legend was born. That of course became his name sake, and known to us today as George Asche Jr. Yes a lot of really cool things happened on February 6th 1932! George Jr would grow up working on Mopar's from an early age and when he was 18 he purchased his 1929 Desoto Roadster which he still owns today. Like George the Roadster has had an incredible life. George would build a full race Chrysler 265, bored out 125 thou, the wildest cam of the day, and a 3 carb intake which had just been released by Eddy Edmunds. For the fun of it I will attach a picture of one of those intakes. It would be 1954 that George and his Uncle, who was even then a Nascar Stock Car racing legend when to Florida for stock car racing. When they were down there then when over to Daytona Beach, home of the Legendary Flying Mile Drag Race course. They were hanging out watching the drag races and arrived early where there was some testing and tuning taking place which included several guys wanting "canon fader" in the other lane as they were testing and tuning their cars for the evenings race. George's uncle Harry Hein's was egging George on to try and get his race out there and before George knew it, Harry had arranged a race against one of the track stars who was driving a full blown drag car with a Chrysler 331 Hemi. While the dual 4 barrel wouldn't be seen until the 1955 Chrysler 300 the owner of the car clearly had connections as they were running two 4 barrel carbs. George pulled the Desoto down on the beach and got in line beside paired beside the hemi. When their turn came, they rolled on to the track and started towards the starter. The flying mile being on the beach, both cars drive up side by side and if the starter feels they are both close to even, he drops the flag and the race is on. George got a little ahead of the hemi,, when he shifted into 2nd, but the hemi caught right up to him and when they got to the starter, he dropped the flag and the race was on. George didn't have the horsepower the Hemi did, but he did have lots of torque and a secret weapon which was a 1940 2nd gear and cluster, known as a "fast second" along with his tranny being a Plymouth r10g1 3 speed with overdrive. That combination gave George the edge right after the starter gave them the go, George nailed the throttle and got a car length jump immediately. George took the engine up to 5 grand and speed shifted it into 3rd. The hemi was still a car length behind with the finish line coming up, but the Hemi was coming on hard. As the crossed the line the crowd was on their feet trying to see whose car cross the line 1st as it looked from the starting line to Harry that it was just too close to call. That didn't last long, as the winner was declared as the 29 Desoto Roadster. Then all of a sudden, everyone wanted to race George. He had just knocked off the reining "King of the Hill" and when he got back being a Gentleman he told the crowd that they started off fair and square, the Desoto got the jump on him and he just couldn't rein him in by the finish line. That would be the 1st race of a very memorable evening of racing. Racing where George would take on everything from Lincoln v10s to a Jaguar with a v12. From dragsters to hot rod engines on chassis with almost no body on the car. Strictly Flying Mile race cars. Harry told me the toughest race George had was against the British Jaguar. George got the jump at the starters flag by about a 1/2 a car. and the two cars looked like they were welded together has they went down the track. George said he saw the Jaguars lights lift several times and he could hear the engine screaming but neither he or the Jag gained an inch on each other. At the end of the evening George remained undefeated with a top speed of 142 mph across the mile course. George would be just 22 years old as the Champion "King of the Hill" for the Friday night Drag Races. That would be the start of George being known for building performance engines, performance transmissions, and performance cars. George would soon become his uncle Harry's engine builder and with Harry's driving skills and George's engine building Harry would go on to a Nascar Hall of Fame career. Now 67 years since George and his 1929 Desoto became part of the history of the Legendary Flying Mile Drag Racing on Daytona Beach, George was just this week building another high performance Chrysler Flathead Engine. He has also been busy rebuilding carb and creating linkage for our last round of Of course the Covid10 Pandemic has put a damper on what normally would be a big birthday celebration. Of course we certainly have February 6 2022 marked on the calendar, where God wiling, we will be celebrating George's 90th Birthday. Oh and if you have a moment, and a decent Long Distance plan, George's number is 814-354-2621 and Im sure he would get a smile if you called him and said - Happy Birthday George!