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timkingsbury last won the day on January 7 2018

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About timkingsbury

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    Junior Member, just joined the forum !

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    .AoK HQ - Fertigs Pa or Campbellville Ont
  • Interests
    Everything Mopar, Flatheads and oh of course..Smoking Chevys..
  • My Project Cars


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  1. George Asche can make you one out of your stock intake, You can do it integrated with your exhaust and split them internally and added a second pipe, or do it with headers. In terms of an aftermarket intake, Eddie Edmunds made a decent on and I do see them up for sale from time to time, although they tend to be pricy. The factory dual carb and dual exhaust manifolds that came on the 1952-1956 trucks are also available from time to time, but big time pricy. I know a guy who has a fully restored setup, from carbs to linkage to cross over pipe and dual exhaust but your looking at $3500. The fentons or offy or other low profile intakes I wouldnt touch with a ten foot pole. They loose too much torque. In terms of our AoK plans, we wont be making a dual carb intake. Our triple works so well on everything from a 201, though to the later 238/250/265 series it just doesnt make financial sense for us to develop a dual. Finally sorry for the late reply. I have not been on the forum much this year.
  2. We have had 1950 Plymouths that required nothing, and 1 that required a bit of modification (grinding) on one sport of the cross member. I am not sure if the case of some of the A833 transmissions have slight differences.
  3. You can use any 23 spline (fine spline clutch) from the 1960s and newer. The current one you have is a course spline that was from the 1950s and older. I would use the biggest clutch your pressure plate will take. The last one we put in was for a 1966 dodge cornet rt clutch (10 ½”) and it came with a pressure plate as the one that was in the car was in rough condition. It came from napa and was listed as a clutch pack although there are lots of great and inexpensive options available. If your current pressure plate is in decent shape then likely a 10 1/2" clutch will work fine and they are readily available from all the major part suppliers. I really dont know the width of a jeep cherokee. Here is a handy chart for a lot of the cars which gives you the widths and that is the key for you is making sure you have the track width close. Having the spring widths the same is also a nice thing as it saves more work. In terms of drive shaft its just a case of having the yoke with the finer spline for the transmission and the rear end. So measure your spring widths and your track width and compare them to the jeep. Personally I prefer going to a car version and depending on what your doing engine wise, likely around the 3:55 or 3:73 ratio. One of the mistakes guys do is going to something 3:23 or 2:73 and you suddenly have a dog at lower speeds. So unless your really building a performance engine 3:55 would be as low a number as I would suggest. Hope that helps get you rolling. Tim
  4. Yes they are ... There are some bell housings it does not fit. Primarily the larger trucks. Feel free to drop me a note directly at fargopickupking@yahoo.com as I am not on the site often these days
  5. Ok Folks - For those who would like to see Legendary Plymouth Motorcycle, she is on display at the National Motorcycle museum. http://www.nationalmcmuseum.org/plymouth-monster-and-bonneville-in-1935-one-mans-dream-for-the-worlds-fastest-motorcycle/ Tim
  6. timkingsbury

    George update, and AoK Intake updates

    Just thought I would share a picture of fellow Canadian Joe Flynn's cool ride, now running an AoK dual carb intake, linkage and air cleaner setup that I just got.
  7. timkingsbury


    Howdy Shull - The fact that there is no stamped number of the block likely means at some point in time the block was cracked or could not be bored out any further and someone bought a replacement block. The casting number on the block and the head actually do not really provide you the information one might hope it does. For the year of the block, on the oil filter side of the block, right close to the oil pan and close to the oil filler there will be the date of casting. It was used for internal purposes as blocks became generational items that often were used over several years and several engine sizes. The last generational change for the 25 1/2" Canadian engine was october 1951.At that point the block was carved internally to allow for the 4 3/4" stroke motor for the 265 ci motor, however that block was also used for the 238 and 250 ci motors. Same block same bore for those 3 just different stroke. After 1955 the year was actually dropped as there was no further block generation. So if your block has a month and day but no year code is was cast after Jan 1955. So your back to the strokes using the method BobK outlined will tell you if it happened to be a 238 (4 1/4" stroke) 250 ( 4 1/2" stroke) and 265 ( 4 3/4" stroke) although you could also have a 228 ci motor or several other cubic inches with a spitfire head on it. As well while the 238, 250 and 265 are 3 7/16" bore stock you would have to remove the head to know for sure the cubic inch. I would however do as BobK suggested as a start. Pull the brass plug and measure the stroke. That really narrows things down quickly. Tim
  8. timkingsbury

    Split exhaust/heat riser

    Sadly this is an idea that may work with other engines, but it most certainly does not work with the flathead. We have done extensive tests. Shortly I will do a complete blog entry on it. But the short version is that when an engine 1st starts up the temperature of the water/antifreeze is the outside air temperature. I dont want to get into a big technical arguement as I know at minus 46 degrees the antifreeze isnt minus 46 so save the comment. Are the water is moved by this plate at start up you are actually drawing heat away from the intake. Heat that even with the split i the exhaust is naturally coming from the exhaust and hitting the intake. Now headers made from stock exhaust actually have a closer profile to the intake than does say fentons, so there is more heat coming from them. But with the water heat attached you have no positive effect until the engine has actually reached close to or reached operating temperature. My then you dont need it. Prior to that point you are actually drawing temperature away from the intake. I can say that with absolute certainty. I have tested it at multiple temperature ranges. Just like I have with the couple of generations of edmunds that offered water heating. So save your time and money. It doesnt work as one might expect and the icing of carbs, Ive heard this story many times and have see many cars do it, but none where flathead mopars until we are talking very cold temperatures which there are some on the forum that drive in them. Absolutely no doubt about that. In that case split your exhaust internally and leave it connected to the intake.
  9. timkingsbury

    Overdrive frustrations

    Well here is the wiring diagram (courtesy of George Asche. Yes bypassing the circuit certainly tells you whether that was an issue. The electronic ignition by itself really doesnt have anything to do with anything assuming everything is wired correctly. Ill drop you a pm.
  10. timkingsbury

    Gear Oil Recommendation

    Here is what we use in every vintage overdrive transmission (R6, R7 , R10G1) and every straight vintage 3 speed, 4 speed and yes even the 5 speeds in our heavy 1952-1956 Dodge trucks. We have trannys with over 100,000 miles on them using it, as would the recognized expert in vintage trannys George Asche. He has taken apart a tranny with tens of thousands of miles on it using Fuel Synthetic oil that yes is really designed for Diesel engines and the internals were perfect.
  11. timkingsbury

    Will not Cross Drill my crank

    While a pre oil pump or sump design is certainly an improvement, its over kill and definitely not anything your going to need. On pistons, again, for what your talking its over kill. Cast pistons with 4 rings are more than capable of running a couple of hundred thousand miles. Now in terms of original pistons and rings, well right off the bat it depends on what engine your talking about. There were forged pistons and cast pistons, as well as chrome rings and cast rings used over the decades in flathead mopars. But for a discussion on which is better, original 1930-1959 technology verses modern forged pistons and modern rings well there is little question which is better. We use custom pistons are rings all the time. The biggest issue is simple.. They are expensive. But in my 1949 Plymouth or our dragster, they are Venola Top Fuel Pistons, coated with plasma moly rings. They are smaller, lighter, stronger and.... expensive. I will attach a picture of a modern forged piston sitting beside an OEM 265 ci piston from 1954. The last 6 pictures are the pistons we had custom made for the 1933 Plymouth race car, and as you can see the rings are super thin. But back to your engine your describing, you dont need that. You should be able to do a rebuild with decent cast pistons, decent bearings etc and never have to rebuild it again. Even if you want to bore it out a bunch, regrind the cam to some mild custom grind, deck the block, shave the head etc, you dont need pre-oil pump and custom pistons. But then, lol, there is lots I dont really need but I have anyways, so by all means fill your boots.
  12. timkingsbury

    Will not Cross Drill my crank

    The challenge he has is the same challenge I have on my 1949 Plymouth Business coupe, and that is the back air cleaner is so close to the firewall. The actual diameter of the air filter is actually only part of the equation when it comes to air filters. Its the total amount of square inches or square feet of media surface that is actually the key number. Obviously the larger the diameter and larger the height the more opportunity there is to utilize filter media. I mention that as on my car I am actually using a custom made filter media which has almost 3 times the total media area of the ones the owner of the 1933 Plymouth put on his car. Improving the air flow is one of the items on the agenda to improve on the car. With the help of a friend were actually working on off setting what are known as 7" round air cleaners. That being said there is nothing wrong with oval designed air cleaners. Would love to have a look at your creation.
  13. timkingsbury

    Will not Cross Drill my crank

    A couple of still shots of the dragster and in answer to the question of how about some videos of it running. Well they will be coming and they do already exist, but for a couple of reasons, including an non-disclosure agreement we cant post them publicly at this point. Again, my apologies for the slight wavering from the original thread intent, but I really couldn't resist and have tried to also clarify the relative oiling points I think the originator of the thread was looking for. Tim
  14. timkingsbury

    Will not Cross Drill my crank

    Hey John - Just to clarify as I sit here laughing while reading your post, I am definitely not taking over George's business or anything close to that. Ive know George for over 20 years. George has been building performance flathead engines for over 60 years. His 1929 Desoto which he still owns was undefeated at the Flying Mile on Daytona Beach in 1955 at 142 mph. That highly modified 265ci engine was built by George. George built the engines for his Uncle Harry Hiens who is in the nascar hall of fame. Those flathead engines were legendary for beating all kinds of v8s. My family background dates back to my Grandfather who worked for Chrysler starting in the 1930s, my Dad who was also an automotive engineer, who build flathead stock car engines in the 50s and 60s, later moving on to building engines for a number of well known top fuel racers. My background really pales in comparison to all of those, although have grown up around some of the best and brightest in the industry.While I do have an automotive engineering degree, it was definately not where the bulk of my career focused by any stretch. I did run a car in the pro stock class in the 1970s and owned the track record at Toronto International when it closed. While I helped build a couple of engines for that car, it was really as an assistant as it was primarily both of my grandfathers that were the primary builders along with my Dad. I have been fortunate to have known George Asche Jr and he and his family have enjoyed a special bond with my family for a long time. From that yes with George, my Dad Eddy along with a buddy I went to school with and myself we did come up with a couple of performance intakes. As you point out that is likely where George and I are likely better known and your also correct George would be pretty well known for his building of overdrives, carbs, linkage etc. But that really is a tip of the iceberg in many ways. George had built likely 50 performance engines since I have known him, and maybe that is a conservative number. In the last 5 years I know he has build 18 of them. Now I think its safe to say that he would say, as my Dad would have while he was still alive as I would, were always interested in learning more about flathead mopar engines, and improving them. None of use pretend to know everything about them in terms of improving their performance. That being said, let me say this about the topic of oiling. There are lots of things you can do to improve the oiling. 1st thing with any rebuild is to simply turn the two cam bearings from using the big hole, which is how they came from the factory, to using the small hole. There is way more oil hitting the cam than was ever needed. Next make sure you have good oil pressure, which really is a way of saying make sure you have a good oil pump. Yes there were higher volume oil pumps for trucks. Yes we try and use them on higher rpm builds but for 99% of every engine I hear being built its not required. I could go though a bunch of tips but unless your planning on spinning your engine above, let me peg it at 5000 rpm regularly and your running a long stroke engine, you dont need it. Use the small hole in the cam bearing, make sure your have a good oil pump and drive on drive on. In terms of a couple of race engines.. Attached are pictures of a 1933 Plymouth. Its spent its life as a road racer. It was highly competitive at the Brickyard at Indy and was a engine build by a well known engine builder. Its owner found out the hard way that yes there is a portion of the track with a bank on it, and as he rode up the bank to pass a Porsche and a Ferrari he lost oil pressure and it locked up. It literally bent a rod and another rod broke loose and went through the block. George was called on to build the new engine for the car, and what I will say is in this years season, the car which has always been competitive, rose up the ranks significantly and the performance improvements were categorized by its owner as "simply incredible how much additional power it has".. Here is was recently as it has finished off the race season and was brought back to George for some further improvements, including changing the fuel distribution, and changing the rear end gearing. This engine is capable of in excess of 6000rpm and of course another video of the AoK dragster (which for you trivia fans, AoK was a name George came up with.. It stands for Asche over Kingsbury).. and George's official answer to the question of - " how fast is that car".. Answer - "Its faster than the average Echo" Aka The Toyota Echo.. A couple of things off topic I like to note here putting to rest the myth that you need electronic ignition for a performance engine, this engine runs an original Chrysler dual point distributor with points! Yes its been modified, but there is no electronic ignition. Yes we also do have a magneto set up for the car to eliminate the battery but what we were puddling with here is trying to get the idle off of the stall which used to be around 2000 rpm. Now down to just over 1000 rpm, its quite easy to drive. Back to the oiling in the engine. Yes we grooved bearings, and did some internal drilling and modifications to get oil return. We have a windage tray with crank scrapers for pulling off oil as this engine spins well above 7000 rpm.

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