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ssnowden last won the day on October 9 2016

ssnowden had the most liked content!


About ssnowden

  • Rank
    Junior Member, just joined the forum !
  • Birthday 02/05/1966

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Bagdad, Kentucky
  • My Project Cars
    1948 Plymouth Special Deluxe Business Coupe
    1953 Dodge B4B Truck
  1. My 48 Plymouth is 12V and I used a Rebel Wire 9+3 kit. Kits Even though it was my first re-wire job, it was an easy installation, all the wires are marked every few inches with exactly what they are.
  2. It may do a wheelie, but it will be hard to beat Stubby Bob. Stubby Bob Wheelie
  3. I wonder what percentage of them will get totaled with less than 1000 miles? 10%? You know some are getting wrapped around a tree within sight of the dealer.
  4. Yes, I saw that was the reason in another article.
  5. I love seeing these new muscle cars! Highest horsepower of any production car, highest G-Force of any production car, first wheelie-capable production car, fastest 0-60 and 1/4 mile of any production car. Banned by the NHRA. Demon intro video Demon web site Interesting points from a Car and Driver blog post.
  6. 16 cars, two motorcycles and an airplane go into this one. Barbecue stove bolt hot rod
  7. I couldn't agree more! I'm a first timer doing this and the best decision I've made so far was to put my P15 back together ugly and get it running, driving and reliable and not worry about cosmetics. I addressed the structural or bad rust issues to protect it from decaying. I'm having a blast driving it and to keep to this thread's topic, I just want it to stop better. I'm hoping doing more bleeding and adjusting the drum brakes again will do the trick, but if not, I'll do the MC/disc modification.
  8. Having recently got mine back on the road see my First Drive with all gauges working post for video evidence , I kept the original drums. I still need to bleed and adjust them more because they feel like I'm stepping on a grapefruit right now. I'm not confident in them even though everything is new except the drums. I adjusted them with the tool per the instructions in the service manual. They are better than they've ever been since I've had it, but I still wouldn't drive it in traffic yet. After my final round of adjustments, if I don't have significant improvement I'm going disc brakes and new MC next because the rest of the drivetrain is ready for longer trips.
  9. I have all the Auto Meter gauges working now, so I took it for a highway drive. I'm using the GPS speedo and it is working great. I got it up to 60 mph and it felt fine.
  10. I took a drive in the P15. It's getting closer to being fully ready to cruise. I put on a Smithy's muffler and it quieted it down quite a bit. Here is the video I shot with my phone of part of the drive. If you click on the video, there is sound. The rattling you hear at :57 is the floor pan cover for the transmission. I only had one screw in it since I'm still adjusting things. Also the cheap Dolphin gauges just aren't accurate at all, so I should have my new Auto Meter gauges in tomorrow and I'll replace them. By the way, I changed the oil after the first start milky oil. Now, after it running for about an hour or so and driving it around, the oil looks good and like it should.
  11. I checked the oil after it ran for a little while and it is a little murky. I changed it before I started the engine and also added some Marvel Mystery oil. Considering it really hasn't run in nearly 30 years, how worried should I be and what should I check? It looks a little like the oil in this video, but not frothy or as gray.
  12. Thanks. Yes it does.
  13. It's alive! I literally bolted everything together and it started right up. I've got a lot of adjusting to do and I haven't tuned it or adjusted the new carb, but at least it's running again!
  14. Thanks. Back to work now though from holiday vacation, so progress will slow down somewhat. But I would like to get it running by spring.
  15. Thanks. My goal is to prevent rust and get it drivable. I actually did replace the clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing. I also did the dime trick with RTV to plug the lower hole in the transmission that I found on this forum and it totally stopped the oil leak. I added a new gasket for good measure as well. On the other end I put on a new emergency brake pad and springs so hopefully it will be good to go.