woodjunky

Reg, I adjusted them to where I hear the shoe's dragging on the drum, and then back off until silent.

I had both front brake wheel cylinders re-built and new pads on my 49 B-1. I have bled the brakes several times using the old method of using clear plastic tubing in a container with fluid. Helper pumping the brake pedal three times, and then holding as I open the valve(s). Can not see anymore bubbles in the tubing, but pedal is still spongy. After 2-3 pumps of the pedal seems where it should be. Wheel cylinders not showing any signs of leaking. Any advice on something I am over looking ?

Yes It is a Mopar Heater. I watched the You Tube Video. I sure wish mine was that easy.

The year is 1949 B-1 Truck . And it's factory heater.

I can not remover the passenger side inner fender to access engine without removing heater hose lines, and backing the heater mounting bolts off. Anyone else experience this ? Or am I missing something ?

Thank you Don and Tod. Good and useful information.

I have the Exhaust Manifold off. Five of the Thirteen broke off, two in the block. This is after heat and few weeks of PB Blaster. My question is the 3/8 stud thread that goes into the block. Is it the USS Course, or the Sae Fine, like the nut side ? What are the actual lengths of the Long Studs, and the Short ones ? Also does a Auto Parts Store such as O'Reilly's carry these. I will need the two long studs, and three short one's.

Jerry, Jeff is correct. I have already seperated the two. A couple days of PB Blaster, and the Turbo Torch and all four came out without snapping Imagine that.

I am going to fabricate a stainless steel block off plate to go beteween the intake and exhaust manifold. My question is, should the plate fit into the the square opening ? Or large enough to have to drill the four 5/16" holes ?

It came from Roberts.

Installing new sending unit in the tank. Wich direction should the float arm be placed in the tank, so not to come in contact with baffle ?

Over the weekend I was checking my lug nuts for tightness and discovered that three of the five bolts on the passenger rear would not tighten up. Removed drum and discovered the bolt threads in the Drum are stripped out. Are there replacements drums available ? Brad

Thank you Merle I will try that. I removed the sending unit again lastnight and checked with OHM Meter, and it's working properly.

Well I checked the gauge with OHM Meter per suggestions. Meter read 29 OHMS, so we are good there. I ran a seperate ground wire from one of the tank mounting bolts to the transmisson bolt that also mounts the positve battery cable. Did not cure. I removed sending unit and drilled and tapped a bolt into the base as suggested. Ran wire to the positive side of battery. Still did not cure. I removed unit with sending unit wire attached (not the ground wire) touched base of unit to the steel floor panel and manually moved float arm, and gauge moves as it should. I have been mounting the unit so the float arm runs parallel with tank facing rearward. Is this the correct ? And this is a New sending unit.

Tried the suggestions lastnight. Touch groundwire to sending unit wire at the tank, gauged junped to full. Used test light on gauge, getting power. My thought maybe since I re-painted tank, and the frame of the truck has been repainted it's not getting a ground ?