Jump to content

StreamlineDeco47

Members
  • Posts

    19
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by StreamlineDeco47

  1. Lol! I looked through all his pages. There's so much to try and make out, but I got an good idea of what's going on in there. More pictures would definitely help out a lot!
  2. Good point to bring up, though. I would stray away from using caps from a different engine-unless I knew they were interchangeable! No worries. I'm looking for more assembly photos of the similar engine's bottom end, if anyone has or knows of any.
  3. Found some replacement Bearing Cap bolts online. Gonna see how the positions of the 2nd and 3rd caps differ them hopefully start assembly. Thanks for your help everyone!
  4. Cool Video! I would love to see more of your Chrysler!
  5. Hi Dave72dt, With snugging the caps I did feel a small lip where cap and block meet. I think I will attempt to install bearings and see what my readings are. I think I'll stamp them once everything is in it's right place, too!! Just in case there's a future rebuild.
  6. I did notice the dimples you mentioned and matched those with the bolt holes. They appear to be lined up. I will plastigage and see what type or readings I get, once I get some replacement bolts. Thanks guys!!
  7. Hey everyone, Recently I have gotten the time (and funds) to continue, and hopefully complete, my engine rebuild on my 230 Flathead. About 6 years ago I purchased a '55 Flathead from a buddy, while taking an engine rebuilding course at my nearby community college. This was after learning my lesson when buying a cracked engine from an unmentionable forum. After finding the one my buddy sold, I began the teardown. I photographed as much of the teardown as I could. I'm also pretty anal (can I say that here?) about labeling everything. I zip-locked each bolt set and labeled their size, count, and where they belonged. Now, here is my issue: After receiving my 230 crank from a local shop I am ready to plastigage it with the bearing caps, but I don't remember how my caps go. Attached is a photograph of my setup. I could have sworn I stamped them, but also notice there's oil caps, as well. I have looked through my Service Manual from 1955 and don't see any diagram or illustration as to the order in which these caps go. I've checked images online of similar engines and nothing close to what I'm looking for. Long story short, if anyone has any photographs of their rebuild on a 230 I would really appreciate a shot of the bottom end install. Also, Could I get away with replacing my Bearing cap bolts with some grade 8 bolts? I have called various suppliers (i.e. Burnaby and Vintage Power Wagons) and they don't carry any. Any info would be appreciated! =Adrian=
  8. Sorry for the late response Merle Coggins. I already found a replacement backing plate without the hole for the bypass. I plan on plugging the block port, as well. Thanks! I will fill you guys in on how it works out. I'm sure someone else will (or has) run into this issue.
  9. Thanks for the response! My water pump has the top spot to mount the bypass elbow to route to the thermostat housing elbow on top of the cylinder head. I found some backing plates without the extra hole for the bypass on the block. We will see how that works once I receive it.
  10. Thanks shel_ny. Do you think a different backing pate would block off any water from seeping through? The passage being there would'nt interfere with anything?
  11. After doing some research, I realize I will also need to get a water pump without the bypass port to the water passage in the block. All I would need then is a new thermostat housing with the external bypass and just plug up the hole in the block. Correct me if I'm wrong anyone??
  12. Thanks for the response Merle! So, I need to have the external setup for my thermostat? Do most shops do plugs on blocks like this? =Adrian=
  13. Hey everyone, Got a little dilemma, here. Recently got my hand on an Edmunds Aluminum head for my '55 Flathead. All the bolt holes line up. The only difference is, as opposed to the stock cast head, the 'hump' in the front for the water pump is absent. As you can see in the first photograph, this is how much lip is left once the head is aligned. The little bypass port is exposed. The second picture is just to show the area clearer. Does one plug the bypass? If so, any recommendations on what type of sealant to use to plug this? I've been going crazy trying to figure this out. Any tips would be helpful and appreciated. Thanks!
  14. Thanks for the tip Norm! what kind of battery is that and where can i get my hands on one? Thanks in advance! =Adrian=
  15. Hmmm...all this two-sided info on switching to 8-volts is making me weary, rob. Maybe it's battery season or something! I am now in the market to replace mine and in the middle of which way to go, voltage wise!
  16. Hi everyone, Have a bit of a problem here. I'm rebuilding a P-15 six and wanted to know what some of you recommend for the valve tappets. Some have told me to machine them flat and use them that way. Others say I should just replace them (I'm using a performance cam)I need to preserve the radius it has. Im stuck here wondering what to do! Im sure some of you have come across this and im wondering what would be the best solution to take on this issue. Thanks in advance! =Adrian=
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use