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Jims50chrysler

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Everything posted by Jims50chrysler

  1. Thanks Dale. It looks good but I have to revisit the design it did not quite fit...the clean lines are because I cut it o the waterjet at work. Jim
  2. Well at least I am moving forward today, I did get the bracket cut out of 3/8" steel today and a friend said he would turn the hubs for me tonight. I expect the rest will go as smooth as it is supposed to. Jim
  3. Hi Dale, I hope you don't mind if I add something here, I just wanted to let you and others know. I mocked up my explorer brakes with used parts from the wrecking yard and all went well, I picked up new rotors, Calipers and Pads and proceded to do the install and wouldn't you know it the rotors inside diameter where the hub fits in is slightly smaller on the new rotors so the hub will not fit inside without a small amount of material removal on the hub. I have contacted my parts guy because the rotors that fit are made by century and the rotors that dont fit are made by certified hopefully he can get me the ones made by century but really I should have the material removed from the hubs so any brand explorer rotor will fit. The good news is the wrecking yard charged me $15.00 for all the parts and I am getting $70.00 back for the cores. I will post the solution when it presents itself. Jim
  4. Thank you very much for starting this thread, I was at the scrap yard today and picked up explorer calipers and rotors to do my 50 Chrysler I have the rotors currently on the car and tomorrow will start designing the bracket as it will be diffrent than yours. Do you remember the part # for the longer flex lines your parts guy found for you? Jim
  5. Good work, I lowered mine the same way 3" blocks and cut 1 coil it will be awhile before I will know how it will ride....how do you like it so far?
  6. Thanks 47 droptop I will check the wiring again next chance I get in case there was a misprint on the instruction sheet, I do agree a dead short is a big streach but it seems like having continuity on those 3 poles can't be right either. the car is far from ready to start right now I am just building the wire harness. I will let you know what I find. Jim
  7. Hi all. I am hoping to figure out if this brain box is no good I am converting a 318 over to this style ignition for my 1950 Chrysler that I am building. I ran all the wires and fortunatly before I applied any power to it I checked for continuity and found with the ignition swich in the run position I had what appeared to be a dead short after some digging it appears to me that this brain box is no good if I check continuity from pins 1,2and 4 to the box itself it indicates that I have continuity....that does not seem right to me, I was hoping that someone might have a box laying around to do a similar check, if the results are different then to me it would confirm that the box is bad. thanks in advance. Jim
  8. I got one here out of a 50 chrysler Windsor got new brake shoes and pinion seal but farther than 100 miles. Jim
  9. Hi everybody: There have been alot of changes in my life over the last year but I have latley been back to working on my 50 (car should have been done 2 times over by now). I have changed direction on the driveline and decided to run a later model 318 with the 904 transmission, I bought a low mile 5th ave doner car and removed everything that I will need. The flathead and fluid drive is out and sold and the 318 with the 904 is sitting in the hole just about where I want it. I know that there are a few of you guys on here that have done this swap and I was wondering what you used for exhaust manifolds? the ideal driver side manifold for me if the engine is where it should be is a center dump manifold found on the trucks but for the passenger side a rear dump manifold would be ideal, is there such a thing? the 5th ave manifold hits the frame on the passenger side. It could be that my engine is not back far enough and I might have to rework the firewall but I was hoping for some imput from the someone who has been here before I start cutting. I know there are threads on this subject somewhere on here but a search did not reveal anything. Thanks Jim
  10. No Johnny I have not got to that yet....way bigger fish to fry first:)
  11. I plan on using a dry clutch......I am supprised at how hard it is for me to find a T5, not that I am in a rush or anything, the fluid drive seems to work good and I have alot of otherthings to do before I start into a job like that.Worst thing is I had a T5 that I kept from my 87 S10 but I sold it to the guy I bought the Chrysler from:eek:....if I had only found this forum before I sold it to him. Jim
  12. In my pursuit of a T5 for my Chrysler I stumbled across this and thought it should be shared. http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/Borg-Warner-T5-ID-Tags.htm Jim
  13. I was at home depot today and they don't carry it anymore I will have to get to a local hardware store and see if they can help. I did sandblast all the rust spots that I could see at the time (discovered a few spots later) it won't be too bad to clean up the rest of the rust but I do have to rebuild the bottom of my drivers door. Jim
  14. OK the small spring now has a home but the large spring baffels me as the exploded view only shows the one larger spring in the whole carb I guess it could have been left over from my parts carb. stranger things have happened. thanks to everyone on this forum for your help I am now driving the car in and out of the shop a couple times a week with the first rebuilt carb to sweep up... nothing inspires me more to work on the car more than a clean shop. Jim
  15. wow sounds labour intensive....where do I buy phosphoric acid? a hardware store? Jim
  16. I will have to see if I can find some phosphoric acid type product and treat some of the deeper pits as the sandblasting did not quite get all of it out. I do have a small quantity of rust converter I should check the label it is probably phosphoric acid does the metal prep stop any rust? if I could spray the whole car with something that will prevent the rust from comming through again that would be the way to go. I have never stripped a car before to find large areas of surface rust they must have painted over the rust the last time:confused: Jim
  17. Good for you Norm...you must be very happy. Jim
  18. I have heard alot of different ways to prep bare metal and I thought somewhere on this forum I read that if you treat it with Muratic acid before any bodywork or primer it will effectively stop the rust I am aware there are products you can buy that claim to do the same thing as well. I am going out to sandblast the visible rust now and I am curious on what procedures the good people on this forum use to treat their tin prior to starting bodywork? Jim
  19. You did a great job....the only reason you see the imperfections is you have been staring at it too long, been there done that. it is amazing the work that can be turned out from a non professional setting...there is a guy near here that paints cars for the stars his name is Harry Sherry (sp) I don't know if he still has it or not but he had clay brought in for his shop floor the idea is to eliminate dust. I just wet my floor down with water. Jim
  20. Hi Merle: I don't have an anti stall adjustment screw on mine there is a place in the casting where there could be one however it is not a through hole therefore could not adjust anything. I could buy into the theroy that the larger spring goes under the anti-stall plunger...makes sence. Thanks Jim
  21. Thats what I thought but I have one there already:confused: Jim
  22. Don't give up on me now....only 2 more springs to go. the arrows indicate where I have springs already but where in the world do these other 2 go? Thanks a bunch Jim
  23. a couple weeks ago I had cut some overbearing trees at my sisters in Toronto her neibours liked it so much they asked if I could cut 4 at their house Pay was good, I mean real good....before I had the 4'th one cut I had 10 more to do in the same neibourhood all paying real good.... I was filling out order sheets for Chrysler parts that first night the world was a beautiful place untill the next day when the lady from 4 houses away started yelling at me for cutting trees and sicked the bylaw officer on me. I wonder what enviro lady from down the road is doing with her garbage now that there is a strike....probably putting it in a park or something. Jim
  24. Ohhh, I guess they are not spare parts a pic is worth 1000 words I should be able to get that put together tomorrow night. The only difference that I see is my anti-stall plunger is closed in like the one in Merle's first pic. Thanks a ton dodgeb4ya Jim
  25. I have the carb reassembled as in the pics that merle posted but still have left over parts as in my pic 1. As said in my first post this could be a practical joke that my friend is playing on me as he owes me several . my question is do any of the remaining parts look like they belong in my carb I think not as there really is no place to put them. As far as the plunger goes I just wanted to make sure I needed to do that before I attempted it. Thanks for the offer James and I will take you up on that if it goes on for any length of time but for right now I will soldier on. DodgeB4ya apparently it will be easyier to just keep guessing at how to reassemble the carb then to find my manual I belive the model # is E7L1 Jim
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