Suess

I am not sure of the odometer. I was hunting for bad rust spots but since it has spent its life here I have yet to find any thing other than mild surface rust. Body is almost perfect just a couple dents. I am not sure what is in the trunk we haven't opened it yet. Headliner and panels rotted out but the seats are still intact, not sure why they lasted but they did. Also it has a little fan on the dash that looks like it was supposed to be there, spotlight was also smacked, I will keep it 6v (just because). I will start posting some more images as we clean.

Hello all. Been awhile since I posted but I picked up a new car last week. This was purchased brand new and the owner joined the marines and left. His parents stored the car for him in Durango. When he got back he drove it for a couple of years the. Started a family. Again the car was parked in a small garage at his parents. That is where it has sat until I pulled it out of the garage. Neighbor kids shot the glass out and took a hammer to the dash, they ripped some chrome off and destroyed the front and rear emblems (trying to pry them off). My wife has wanted a four door for years and this was the best surprise I could think of. I will,start posting as we get her up and going again. The original owner is hunting down pictures of the him and the car and I hope to have him be able to sit in it and take his kids for a ride.

TodFitch ..... I also stated "But secretly I may have found the car"....... "My goal is to get the car roll it into a barn and replace or rebuild the neccesties" and finally "This will be a anniversary car for us." This is a secret/surprise. She is not a woman of low intellect, if I start asking for her opinion then the gig is up.

Yes seat belts, my hold on the engine is that the one that is in it runs, it is old and tired but it still runs. If got another one and had it rebuilt it would be simple in and out, very little down time.hardest part about the rearend would be perches and the drive shaft. I will of course run split exhaust but other that's that she will be the same, no aluminum head or duel crabs. Just a nice everyday runner. Also what about the tranny is there anyone that rebuilds them?

So my wife has made the decision that she wants a 47 plymouth four door., a little history with me is haven my fathers plymouths. A red 47 business coupe and a 1948 convertible that was given to my wife. No she is on the hunt for a47 plymouth 4door. Her plan is to sell her everyday car a dodge caravan and drive the plymouth as an everyday driver. I have no issues with this what so ever. She is out wrenching on the cars as much as I am....meow this is how it changes. She wants stock. The car we are looking at is indeed stock. Has an old engine and drive train. If I purchase this vehicle I know I will be changing to a 230. And the dakota rearend along with disc conversion and shock relo. This vehicle will have to be a daily driver. I do not have freeways here but the kids have after school things they need to go to.so the car needs to be able to travel at least 60mph. She is aware that she will be losing all the cool things like power windows and back seat tv screen for the kids remote start... So on so forth. I have been squashing her dreams for awhile now telling her to enjoy to convertable. But secretly I may have found the car. So my question is should I try to find a 230 or just redo the stock motor. Also I am torn on the 6v- 12v or should a all push for the overdrive? My goal is to get the car roll it into a barn and replace or rebuild the neccesties. Any thoughts? This will be a anniversary car for us...more for her but you get the idea

Car looks great!! I am very glad you did not sell her.

Do you want the glass measurement or the actual glass and frame?

Any updates on the glass install? I have been waiting patiently.

The lines on mine did not go to the end of the rack. This is good to know when I was looking at the replacement rack their are two different choices for the r/p and the website had generic pictures so I wasn't sure what the difference was. Great pics! And my reason for using a celebrity. I could not find a cavalier anywhere at the yard.

Posie has them for 350.00 that's a little cheaper.

1984 celebrity. You can get all the parts from auto parts store but you have to get the clamps hold down off of the donor car. Also try and get the power side hose the end will not fit in the power steering pump but a quick trip to napa and they will crimp you on a new peice for 10 bucks. Otherwise it will cost you 30-40 for a replacement hose and the extra ten for the correct fitting. And if you can put the hose on during mock up otherwise you will have to drop the rack to get it to fit.i could not get the wrench to fit it was to close to the frame rail. Hope this helps. If you need pics or parts list please let me know

Rebuttal I have heard this before. The why did you pay so much this could have been done for half the price. I have looked and looked at 700r4 I have yet to find the $1300 dollar tranny that is just right. Granted I can go to a junkyard rip a tran out and have it installed for under 500.00. I do not disagree with that but I also do not work in that manner. If I am going to it I will make sure that the part that is being installed will be fully functional and new. So lets say I do get a transmission for 400 from junk yard. Then I get a rebuild kit for 200, then I need to do a converter for 100. That is 700 right there. So the tranny needs to be built. I do not know how to do this and will have to pay someone to do it. So lets say I find a good tranny guy and it is 600 to have him build it ( this doesn't happen and if you think it does put down the kool-aid). Now I need to do a lockout and kickdown 100.00 that is $1400.00. (These prices that I have stated are very low in estimate but for arguments sake lets say I get it for that price) I will still need to rebuild the tranny mount. This does not cost anything just time for me to rebuild it. But let's say the person does not have the ability to do this. Bamn that is at least another 150...... Total of 1550.00.... Savings of 1150.00 So you jump in the car fire it up and head on down the road sweet everything is going smooth but something does happen clutch pack, pump who knows but it happens. What's the warranty looken like. I will tell you it is 30 feet or 30 seconds. If I was going to do a 700r4 I would have done it and dropped the three grand to do it. The tranny that I have is perfect and has no problems what so ever. So I will brake the mold and do something unique. If you can get a 700r4 for cheap and it is what you like to run go for it. I can not find or would run a cheap tran? You do indeed get what you pay for. This car has been with my father since the early 70s I will keep it forever. So I will drop loads of cash on it and make it run for another 60 years.

I will give brief discription on the parts. This is the tail shaft extension, along with the speed cable and sensor. The kit does require you to put a electric speed sensor inline of the cable. This is done to protect the unit from low speed overdrive. The electronics of the device are all solenoid operated. You receive a dimmer switch that will allow you to manually flip between OD/drive. I used a spray can to give the idea of the footprint of the control module. This can easily be hidden under the dash. The kit also comes with a toggle switch and a red and green LED. I will place the lights behind the speaker grill in the middle of the dash. This is the actual unit and the tail shaft mocked up. Total length is 21.5 height is 7 inches. I have more than enough room for this. Ups claims the shipping weight as 53 lbs. I will of course have to have the driveshaft shortened and balanced 40.00 for that. This also brings up a point about proper install of engine and trans. Not only do you want the engine centered as much as possible but the final angle of the combo is crucial. If i had just plunked everything in and ran it with out doing my pinion and trans angle I would be running into a headache. The shorter the driveshaft is the more critical this measurement becomes. There are kits that will replace the yoke system for a cv joint system. These do work great but if you ever blow out the joint you are stuck. Not a simple ujoint swap. I would much rather have a couple spare ujoints at 15 a piece then the 100 dollar cvjoint. Just my two cents

Ok here we go. GV unit showed up today. I ordered it on Wednesday of last week. When you order they will ask for tire size and gear ratio of rear end. This is done so that you will get the appropriate gear for the speedo. Purchase price for this unit was 2700.00 I chose a gear vendor for the warranty, I want a cruising gear, 700r4 is very expensive and is weaker than a turbo 350, requires lockout, new tranny mount, and must have the kickdown set just right ( you can of course build a 700r4 to handle power but it of course costs money and will shift hard). People will disagree with this but it is my choice To go this route. Another big reason for this purchase was that if the GV is out of warranty and you smoke it. They will send you a rebuilt unit for 900.00. To me this is worth it ( if everything works) So I have a turbo 350 with the 6 inch tail shaft 3.73 gears. I still do not know what my rpms are at but i will get that this weekend before teardown. At 55 she is rapped up. I know there is a mathematical equation for this but it will be much easier to set up a dwell meter and go for a spin. Anyhoo GV is calling for Lucas oil or fully syn mobile 1. I am a believer in good fluids and will splurge on that. As soon as I get into work tomarrow I will get the photos downloaded and give a description of the parts and measurements. Thanks Suess

Well it shall be done. I will get exact rpms. So I know what the end result is and a mpg rundown