p24-1953

tim beat me to it.

im asking about the cardboard one that was in engine compartment

Where is the best place to get them for a 53?

yestesting in a series with a bettery and it shows no draw. i will test to see if the batery is charging as you said to and see what it shows

i ended up taking the car to a brake shop. i found i that i had one cylider that was leaking in the front but could not get a firm pedel. the shop said that the rear were not properly adjusted as soon as they fixed that i have a very firm pedel and the car stops great now.

robert, i ended up taking the car to a brake shop. i found i that i had one cylider that was leaking in the front but could not get a firm pedel. the shop said that the rear were not properly adjusted as soon as they fixed that i have a very firm pedel and the car stops great now.

i have just been idleing in the garage or slowly driving aroung the block while i work on my breaks. the battery is new (a month or two old) i dont think there is a drain my teseter is not showing any draws when the key is off. what are the symptoms of a failing voltage regulator?

i am trying to chase down a problem with the charging on my 53 plymouth. the battery will last for about 6 weeks before it is dead. I run the car twice a week for 20 mins aprox. when the car is running you can disconnect the battery and it will continue to run. what could be causing the battery to drain? i do not have a short. The car has been rewired and has no signs of a draw when the battery is connected with the key off. When the car is running the dash shows that it is charging. Is it the gen. or the volt regulatior, or something else?

bob how did you do that? wire the fm modulator to pick up on am?

hey lou what email? thanks for the info and i would like to talk to you about that door..... this place is great....

does anyone know the part number for the emergancy brake band?

i bought the weather proof ones from summit. i think that there good quality?

i think i paid about 12-17 for 100' but it did not match the original... those prices could start to add up. i totalled at less than 100 for the whole car including crimpers and wire ends

i did mine about a month ago. i bought my wire in hundred foot rolls from summit it is a third of the price that way. a 100' worked on everything but the 16 ga i think i had to start a second roll on it. probley only used 25 ' of the second roll. i picked a different color for each guage and started at the headlights and worked back. take your diagram to a kinkos or something and blow it up 200-300 % stick it to the roof or wall and highlight as you go. its not hard i did mine on a friday after noon and worked a little each night for about a week or so and finished it up.. its amazing how bright 6 volt headlights can be... let me know if i can be any help

well i tried again last night. i replace the push rod with the originals. bought a nice flare wrench and tighned the crap out of everything. went for a test drive and the pedel is a little soft the first pump but the second push will lock the tires up at 40. we wiil see if there is a drip tonight. do i just need to rebleed the brakes to firm up the pedel?

if you dont mind me asking what was the total cost.

also are any kits direct bolt on? do any kits switch to a direct bolt on dual chamber m/c? are any kits direct bolt on for the rears?

thought about that but i have yet to see a total price to switch over. i have read 400-1000 and that is a pretty wide spread. does any one actuall know what it cost to do a front brake conversion?

i started with rebuilding my old front wheel cylinders. this worked good for two days untill the car started pulling to the left when you hit the brakes. attempt #2 so, i bought new cylinders (raybestos), put them in, bleed everything. went for a drive and they worked for a while but the longer i went the softer they became, after it sat overnight i had drips on both tires. Attempt #3 i pulled everything and one cylinder on each weel seemed to be taking on air. i thought it was at the supply hose. ordered and installed new hoses, put it all back together. rebleed everything had good pressure, took it for a spin two days later the pedel had to be pumped to get pressure. and i had a puddle at both wheels.... attempt #4 when the wife applied pressure to the brake pedel on the ruturn you could hear a hissing sound from the top two cylinders. i didnt know if it was a bad seal or if they were taking air at the hose so i pulled everything, installed a rebuild kit that i had lying around and put hydralic thread sealer on all hoses re bleed everything had good pressure. it was two late for a test drive so i thought i would wait till next day.... this morning i had two new puddles and had to pump the pedel to get pressure. rock automotive said they would return the two faulty cylinders but im about to give up on these things i am tired of pulling everything apart reassembling it , rebleeding, and re adjusting the toe and heel.... im thinking it time for the midus touch.. what could i be doing wrong? could i really have got 4 bad cylinders at once?

if you could check it out for me or let me know where to go. i would appreciate it. if you need a hand pulling parts holer

ohh your my hero..... where.....please tell me

i dont know about you guys but my ebrake is as tight as i can get it and im lucky to keep it still on a slight incline. there is no way it would stop the car.

while driving...... other than praying. my master cylinder went out a few years ago but luckly i was on the highway so i just kept on going till i rolled to a stop, but what about if i was intown.. what should i do? how can i stop. i just installed new lines, cylinders and pads, but the M. cylinder is a older rebuild job.

i have been looking for a front pass. side door for a 4 door 53 plymouth. i have been searching for a junk yard in middle ga. but have not found one that has not sold all the old cars for scrap. any one got any leads? i will post this in parts wanted also...

What not to do while under your car..... Voice #1: hey thats a odd looking spot! voice #2: hey poke at it with that screw driver. voice #1: okay Voice #1 and #2 in unison: son fo a #@%@#$@@# Moral of the story... I found rust. when i got my car i was told to check the floor boards for rust which i did and i did not find any , but i did not know that near the door on the drivers side the desginers thought it wuld be good idea to design a holding area 2" wide by 8-12" long. after the poking and proding the damage is about 1" wide x 6" long. so i want to know where else to look for rust. Pictures would be great. this is a dry west texas car so i hope i am over reacting.