dudford

Do you know if these are sold as aftermarket or replacement parts? I’ve had a search briefly on the google but to no avail

Interesting Ed, I have a set of the L brackets but someone had gas axed them both in half making them useless. How does the rubber mount attach inside the web of the chassis? It’s feasible I could knock up something that uses a rubber donut which might be easier than using what I already have

I’ve had a brief search around and can’t find what I’m in search of. This is for my regularly cast aside 30 Chrysler CJ coupe, I’m posting it in the truck side of the forum as it relates to the use of a 40’s-50’s (?) truck bell housing. I’m stumped for sourcing the rubber mounting pads so before I go cobbling together a home brew replacement I thought where better than to ask the kind folks here. I’ll attach some pics but I’m looking for the rubber sandwich plate units I suppose you’d call them. Not impossible to replicate but if anyone knows an easily sourceable part number or supplier then it’d save me some time. Thanks!!

Hot rod, it’s an odd term really as a car like this will never look like a 32 Ford fenderless, chopped, channeled coupe with a hemi and lakes pipes... essentially the hot wheels idea of a “hot rod”. In my opinion and it’s always going to be your decision but I’d just trad rod it. Freshen up the motor, add some hop up period correct equipment like split headers, dual intake, junior cam, high comp head, lay it down on the floor a little and cruise it about. You get way more interest in it like that than just another chopped out hemi version. That’s my $.02

In England parts can be pretty difficult to get hold of unless you’re willing to part with wads of cash in shipping and duty charges. Having said that I’ve done alright from people shipping vehicles to our shores with a plan to rip out the running gear to go sbc 350/350 etc. When that happens I’ve always made myself available to relieve people of unwanted parts and stopped a lot going to the scrap yard. Something I did ship over that took years of watching and waiting and failing with bids in eBay was a period correct radiator cap for my 30 Chrysler Coupe. Consistently beaten as I wouldn’t go over $225, eventually after about 7 years or so I got lucky.

Cool pics Kirk, fair play to that roll hoop. Curious looking wide five axle/wheels? Be interested to see more if you uncover any, great history!

Goodness triumphed today. I had poured diesel down the bores and let it soak, applied pressure forward and back at the flywheel over last few days and finally there was movement. Looks like it was definitely weather seized, corrosion at the rings. All moving nicely now!

My thoughts also, I think it’s the rings that have corroded to the bores. Good soak in diesel and then wind it over off the flywheel

Sorry for the confusion and yes I hijacked the thread. I have a seized/stuck engine (only 30,000 miles on it and was running when removed but has sat for a few years). My aim is to unseize it and rebuild it for my Coupe.

Agreed, leverage on the flywheel sounds to be the easiest option, if no joy may try the knuckleharley route. Thanks for all the pointers!!

From that image you might just make out the presence of shims in the ring spanner around the nut (a hacksaw if you can see the teeth). It’s on there good with no wiggle. I’ve stood on it, there’s diesel down the bores, I’ll leave it soaking a week and stand on it everyday. That’s worked before fingers crossed it’ll work again. Otherwise I think I’ll have to apply heat which I’m loathe to do. Hey Andy, that’s an AF spanner 1 1/14. If all goes to plan once I pull it I’ll give you all the details, I too am curious!! Yeah turning the flywheel/torque converter is an option and probably the easier option with the leverage though I’m on a budget and shipping a tool from summit to the UK not top of my list. I am thinking to put a ratchet strap around the flywheel and torque converter and twist a scaffold pole in and give that a go just to get it turning.

Any help in the size of my Plymouth p30 230 crank bolt? It’s not the 1 11/16 or the 1 13/16 that Dodgeb4ya shows from that picture, it’s smaller. As a metric size it’s 31mm or 1.22” so 1 1/4 is a bit sloppy. Any ideas what the actual size is?

Great, I love a bit of history thanks B-Watson. So would it be safe to assume that the bodies built by Briggs in the 30's for all their manufacturing partners, Ford Chrysler etc, would have been very similar or would they have been completely different?I had another cursory look in the block this morning, I'm now certain that the line that appears to be a crack heading up to the water jacket and cylinders is a casting line as it's repeated twice in the block: I think that while the crack doesn't affect anything essential, I won't be taking it to the scrap metal merchants to be melted down just yet. However the mind now boggles over the collet situation. I have two differing sets of valves with two different types of collets! I'm just guessing that the chap who worked on the engine before me just couldn't source the correct parts. Anyway, Andy yes, still having fun!

Hmm... I assumed the vertical "line" was a seem from the original casting that just happened to intersect with the crack but, if like you say, it extends up to the jacket then I think it's coffee table material. The second thing that strikes me as strange on this teardown is the lack of collets holding the valves... They're all held in with what look like washers with a slot cut out to slip them on. I fear a "bodge it" job has transpired. Good to be back Joe