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flatheadtim

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  • Biography
    1946 club coupe, 1957 shortbed chevy
  • Occupation
    master mechanic

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  • Location
    South Oregon
  • Interests
    Cars, fishing, hunting
  1. I use my fluke DVOM plenty but a DVOM will tell you, you have 12 volts on a single strand ready to break where the test light will glow dim indicating a problem. Anyways check out Dons post for show your tools to get a better idea about me
  2. Not meaning to contradict you but I believe you have to check the condenser with a megger (not many people have these) thats to complicated. I would think if you have trigger (on--off from points on the points side of coil with test light flickering while turning over eng.) and 12 volts to coil on other post then you should have spark out of coil if the spark is intermittant check the condenser if not probably the coil. It takes me 2 minutes to check this with a test light once at trigger side of coil then at 12v side of coil then output high kv. You can also ohm the coil but this is not always reliable.
  3. If you have power to coil, check trigger side coil with test light it should flicker (turning on and off) when turning over if flickers could be coil or condenser. Also coil wire could be culprit but usually I would do condenser first then look at coil issue. Condenser cheapest.
  4. True-- unless there is a velocibrakecalpressurilizer inline to the rears.
  5. I would think an adjustable pilot bearing puller would work or a slight modification...The tool screws on the end of a slide hammer..your choice on how large a slide hammer. I have never done this job on a P15. Is the bearing attached to the shaft or the tube? Probably need to pull the shaft first. Good luck!
  6. type in "woody" in the search box on craiglist example http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/cto/3013186469.html
  7. If you understand braking--doppler effect, gravity and centrifugal forces then you know that 80% of braking force is applied to the front brakes and 20% to the rear brakes. When you apply brakes the car puts the bulk of the weight on the front wheels and da da da da OK.
  8. Some states when registering used the engine stamped number as the "VIN".
  9. You either invert a large can of brake fluid in the master opening (like a chicken watering station) this also insures you wont run out of fluid during gravity bleed. Or make a master cyl cap adapter with remote res.
  10. I would sand (ruffen) the shoes and round the edges a little. You should spin the drum while tightening the bearing nut, tighten the nut just till you feel it get tight then back off a little. Check and see how much play you have with tire off ground shake tire one hand on top and one hand on bottom of tire there should be very little play. Make sure where the play is and correct if to much.
  11. If you are in neutral when this happens. I would suspect a loose or cracked componet in the clutch sys.
  12. I would recommend using a sealer primer for the prep. This bondss well to what ever its on and forms a bond to the top coat (paint)
  13. I gravity bleed the system cracking bleeders on all cylinders that have been worked on then I bleed singular from the farthest. The reason to bleed from the farthest is to minimize the amount of cross-contamination between the new and old fluid.
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