kencombs

Under most conditions that is correct. However, the auto-ignition temp of a gas/air mix is about 536deg F. I've seen exhaust manifolds glowing red after long hard usage and red cast iron can be well over 500deg, loaded trucks or tow vehicles usually but a hard drive on a hot day can really drive up the manifold temp. Not normal circumstances, but it could happen. Of course the distributor and spark plug wires are also a possible ignition sources of gas vapor, especially the arc inside the cap and weak/leaky wires.

Thanksgiving is almost over and I'm tired and way to full of food. But, really enjoyed kids, grandkids and greats! I really am thankful for the way things turned out for me and mine. But, like a lot of folks I often forget those who came before, thanks for reminding me.

I don't know how my mod would translate to an earlier chassis, but I used a 60 crossmember under a 60 clutch housing with the correct mounts on my 56. That housing is the correct depth for a later transmission, and is drilled for the L6 and early poly/hemi engine also. So, even though I'm keeping the six, I could later unbolt it and drop in an early V8, maybe even an LA version with some machine work. My trans is an A833OD which has a front bearing retainer sized to fit the clutch housing. I plugged the unused holes in the housing, welded some bosses onto it with Nirod then drilled and tapped for the newer trans. I'm pretty sure the same method could be used to bolt up most transmissions without an integral clutch housing. Since that housing has a big opening for the retainer a reducing ring may be needed for some trans.

I can never remember the location of the LH threads, always have to dig up the info.

Those fittings are available straight, 45 and 90deg, and in brass, which I recommend. The steel ones will rust and the cheaper ones are way too thin to be long lasting. eBay, Amazon or local parts place should have (or be able to order) them.

I also think it is heat related but believe the problem is the hot fuel(maybe even vaporized partially) creating pressure in the pump and the line from the pump to the carb. In effect that line is a sealed environment, check valve in the fuel pump, inlet needle at the carb. Pressure for the heat soak when shut off pushes the needle off its seat and since the carb bowl is full that excess fuel hits the intake. So, on start the engine is rich until that excess vaporizes and gets burned. If I'm correct is this guess, you should be able to smell the rich burn at the tail pipe on restart, maybe even see some black smoke. A fuel pressure regulator with a return line will help as will adding a heat shield to the line and pump.

I've used vaseline since the 60s. Always worked for me. First started this when working on the little aluminum Buick v8s. They had the pump in the front cover and the pickup in the rear. Factory speced a vaseline pack and without it they took forever to pickup the oil from way back there! Found that it helped with Ford y-blocks which also have a pretty long pickup tube. Vaseline will stay in place indefinetely, unlike oil which may seep away from the gear spaces when not started right away.

That configuration is used on those engines that have an internal bypass. That one has a little 'bump out' on the front of the head that covers a matching hole in the block.

Your pic seems to show 2 spacers, one under the 'stat housing and 1 on top of the water pump? If that's the case you can remove both and the bypass hose should line up. Then the rear of the head will get a heater control valve and the return side does to the water pump.

The engine moves when running and driving. The rubber protects the steel from work hardening and cracking.

AFAIK all three are adjustable on the cars. Trucks with solid axle must be bent to set camber, but caster is set with shims and toe with the tie rods.

It's hard to say impossible to say from the scant information we have and no 'feel'. IMO, first issue to resolve is it a mechanical bind in the box, linkage or kingpins? To do that I'd put it on stands and disconnect the tie rod ends at the spindles and check them for bind. The feel of each joint to ascertain if they are free to move. Then move on the box itself. If you still feel resistance with the linkage removed the box needs to be inspected. OTOH if it 'feels' like something besides mechanical binding, like feedback resistance when turning at speed, bent spindles with excess camber and/or toe way out of spec on one side can do that. That's what I referred to in my first sentence, we can't feel the things you do. Maybe a little more detail might help.

That PN is for the intake manifold only. Actually it is a casting number, which someone with the correct manuals may be able to convert to a PN. But, it will still be for the intake and will not include the exhaust.

I've always placed stands under the rear axle as far apart as possible and get a solid location. Under the front, the lower a-frames outboard of the spring seat. But be sure that your location is solid with no inclines or protrusions to prevent the stands for seating will with no possibility of slipping. Move to the frame forward of the suspension in a flat spot if any doubt.

I may be wrong, but IMO if the rear wheels are not dead vertical and parallel with each other something is bent. Axle, housing or wheels. When modifying rear axle housings great care is taken to make sure those targets are met.

Or the remote start button that I described earlier is used. Same results, two big terminals on the solenoid are bridged while cranking.

I started working on cars in earnest about 1960 Still lots of 6v vehicles around then and I have no idea how many we jumped with 12v from the wrecker. well over 100 I'm sure. In most cases we turned on the ignition and made sure the lights, radio etc were off. The do as Sam stated.

There were at least 3 maybe 4 of the 57 up differentials. I'm sure my 65 had the A body version, but I don't know what internal differences might have been beyond the casting numbers which define the body series use. Supposedly they are good, stronger, strongest. Haven't ever looked at internal PNs and interchange as my Hollander doesn't go beyond mid 50s.

Odd thing about that history from hemmings though, I had a 65 Dart back in the early 70s. 273/4bbl/4spd with the 66 cam upgrade. It came with a 3.23 differential and like a lot of guys, I was looking for better acceleration. I found a 55 Chrysler in Dad's salvage with a 3.55. Bear in mind that the Dart had flanged axles while the 55 still had the tapered version. Checking things over I found that the side gears in the two had different splines and the rear ujoint didn't match. But I was able to swap the side gears from the 65 into the 55 as well as the ujoint yoke. Only real difference was the use of an adjuster to set end play instead of shims. Point being, while the 'real' 8.75 didn't appear until 57 I think, there was a lot of the earlier DNA in them. Outside of drag strip I've never seen one broken, worn out maybe but never a catastrophic failure.

The network software is totally separate from the applications software. The network implementation may well bar communications, but the application and database software may still be the same. Not saying it positively, but there sure are lots of commonalities, even in the web stuff. Businesses seldom write their own, it's expensive and requires skills normally outside their skillset. Much cheaper to buy the package and pay the vendor to build and screen interface.

I suspect all the systems have the same data as their source, and maybe even the same software, with some individual features. Probably bought from the same software creator. I'm amazed at how much better Rock Auto is though. It's probably the whole package without the other stores changes.

Regarding my post above, I'm not familiar with that specific switch, but a lot of older vehicles with starter buttons had a simple 3 post switch. Bat/ign/Acc. So swapping the last two will cause the exact symptoms the OP sees. Lots of industrial and farm machines are that way also.

I've been following this with interest. Short dies will probably distort the edge as already mentioned, but that can be minimized by stopping short of a full bend. Go full length of the repair, then do it over and over a little at a time, overlapping the dies position each time. If you have an acetylene torch it can help by relieving the stress between press passes. I've done something similar on my shop press. It sorta works but I'll bet you will be wishing for a air over hyd jack before you're done! I know I got really tired of pumping and releasing over and over and over and.....

Miswired, but probably only two wires need to be swapped. The accessory and ignition posts. That is assuming everything else works as it should.