kencombs

I've been lucky using the Chinese stuff. Replaced the turbo on my grandsons Cruze using the turbo core from eBay. 105 bucks vs GMs 600+. Worked fine. Not saying they all are good, just my experience. Buy through ebay and they will take care of you if the seller won't. At least that's been my experience. I would like to find some detail on the boost performance of those. Seems to me the output would be related to the input, almost in a linear fashion. But have found nothing to support that. I mean 820psi is easily obtained without a booster! Most pedal arrangement provide at least a 6:1 ratio and 125 lbs is easy foot pressure for most people.

Broken top rings in a modern engine(one without lots of taper and wear) are often caused by detonation or early ignition. Same is true for broken pistons. Is this the one you had issues with a crank postion sensor???

One of my favorite 60s Fords. 2spd Fordomatic? I had 60 Ranchero with that trans. Bought it, cheap, with a deep knock and no drive. Everyone assumed it was a rod out. Broken stud on the torque convertor. Really loud and let all trans blood out! My first auto trans rebuild. torque converter, clutches and seals. One of my best deals ever. Later had a 66 Rancho. Not nearly as pretty as the earlier ones, IMO. But a lot more engine!

Reduced, not completely removed in most. Due to incompatibility with modern catalytic converts is what I understand. It is also my understanding that that is immaterial for our flathead sixes as those where not present at the time they were designed or for the most part during their lifetime. Now if I were running a 56 V8 (or any OHV) especially with non-stock valve springs, I'd have a different view. (and I wish I was but Hemis or Polys are just to expensive to build).

Cheap and Chinese, but lots of good reviews. https://www.ebay.com/itm/275357422644?hash=item401c94d434:g:UPQAAOSwipNhIIWS

First check the actual pedal free play. It may now have the rod too short. Then adjust shoe to drum clearance as you mentioned.

When I want solid oil info I spend some time at bobistheoilguy.com. Lots of time!! More info there than I can possibly absorb. But, seems to be factual. Even some fairly good info on what the API designations mean. Edit to add: this is a link to a concise list of API info. https://penriteoil.com.au/knowledge-centre/Specifications/194/api-service-classifications/363 It's important to note that early in this article the point is made that newer classifications are backward compatible. IOW, newer meets all older specs +.

Paging James Douglas! Patriot, search for posts by the above name here. He has done such a swap and I think it was done as a custom job, no real kit.

I don't want to list all the references, but a quick search of the question will turn up dozens, if not hundreds of sources. All state in some way that zinc was first added to engine oil in the 50s to enhance starting lubrication with the new-fangled OHV engines. I've referenced this in a few post but normally stay out of the discussions. Suffice to say that my flattie won't be getting any special additives or high zinc oils. If the sources are correct millions of pre 50s flatheads ran there entire life without it. I've never seen a worn (other than rust-caused) flathead cam in any make.

I don't know the length, but it normally sold in bulk lengths Local hardware store handles 6 and 12". I think they are 3/8sq, but just measure the width of the axle groove. And, they aren't Woodruff keys, just plain key stock. Woodruffs are arc shaped, and the shaft socket is cut with a circular cutter cutter.

I disagree with the term cheap. The parts are substandard, but the prices are anything but cheap!

No help on rejuvenation tricks. But Have you tried searching the Chicago Rawhide catalog for a modern cross, by dimension, not application? It's amazing what kind of cross applications you can find sometimes. I needed seals for the rear axles on a Case garden tractor. Found crankshaft seals for a Kohler engine that were a perfect fit. You'll need shaft OD, approximate width and recess ID.

Reminds me of my first experience with the slant six. The airline I worked for back in the sixties has bought a new 63. Crew cab, (when 4dr six passenger trucks were rare), slant six with Torqflite. Our hangar was at the North end of a 10,000ft runway on the East side. The passenger terminal was on the South end, West side. So just over 5 mile round trip. When I left that department in 71, it had well over 125,000miles on it, with 127 different drivers. No engine or transmission repairs! It had only been off the airport a couple of times for two 200 mile trips to service a plane grounded at a non-maintenance station. literally thousands of short trips, lots of drivers and still truckin'!! Always had at least 4, usually 6 guys aboard + tools. Slower that molasses in that heavy thing but reliable.

That wire in the edge roll was a common thing when that type of fender construction was common. Many times a dent would stretch the metal and deform the shape and the reinforced bead was the best way to restore the shape. Or, at least easier, if not better than properly shrinking it so it would hold its shape.,

I don't worry about adding zinc as there was none in the oils available when these cars were new for the most part. It only became common after high performance OHV engines came on the scene. The increase invalve train weight, higher rpm and spring pressure drove the need to reduce wear at the cam/lifter interface. The gray is primarily aluminum from piston wear, fine cast iron particles from the cylinders, and lead alloys from bearing wear. Larger Iron/steel particles come primarily from timing components, chain and gears.. I've never seen any research confirming lead from combustion contributing to sludge. It's interesting to me to see the difference that was apparent back in the 60s whe full flow filters became common. Back then I was deeply into at least a couple of engines a week. Engines just didn't have the heavy gray deposits if equipped with full flow filters like the yblock fords, poly head mopars and small block chevys. Blowby create black sludge from oil carbons , but not the gray stuff.

I think the common Ford axle flange will be too small for the 1T bolt circle.

Here's one source: https://www.ebay.com/itm/225099154783?hash=item3468f4855f:g:XgoAAOSwtqJi5fHU And, the can is a nice display item too! Or, here is modern version:https://www.amazon.com/Millers-Oils-5256TB-Classic-Grease/dp/B00JFF4Y44

Well, it looks bad. But if only one journal won't clean up at .030, it can be welded up. More than one, and it could become cheaper to find another core.

First thing I thought of too! I see some custom wheel adapters in his future if he wants to retain the matching wheels front and rear. I would. Second option for me would be a front axle swap to match the new rear bolt pattern.

Look for exhaust interference with something under the car, manifold to rear bumper. It tends to move with engine torque and could be touching somewhere or something. Or rear spring noise when the leafs move against one another during torque changes.

Just use a bolt that fits, with the same thread sealer you used on manifold and head bolts that enter the water jacket. Or use a copper sealing washer under the head if you prefer. Not a big deal.

My simplistic definition of dwell: The duration of a completed circuit from a coil primary to ground, expressed in degrees of rotation. The latter is important, the time varies by RPM, the degree doesn't. A points system can't vary that. An electronic system can change according to it's map as stated. So, I would expect the dwell, expressed in degrees to change as does the time. That is exactly why my project will be getting a GM controller, slant six modded distributor and ecoil. TO THE OP: Is your dwell a constant 28deg, or do you see a variance with rpm changes? I would almost bet that the current version of the product your using may be different that older models as the maker 'remapped' it to fix issues or improve it. I do know that they fixed them to keep from burning out when the ignition was left on without the engine running.

That one sure looks like the warranty replacement I got from Stanley/Black&Decker to replace a Craftsman from Sears. Mine was a 1/4" but the style is just like that.

The leak cause is dependent of the rebuild method. Some rebuilders use the original type bushing and seal. Others may upgrade to a needle bearing and different seal. Do you have access to that info?? If it has no zerk, it may have been upgraded and the new seal is not seated, if it is a face to face type. But, it wouldn't hurt to add a zerk, give it a shot of grease and run it a bit. Edit: was your old one rebuilt and returned, or was it an exchange rebuilt. If exchange you may have a newer pump with the bearing and new type seal as part of the new core.

#5 warms my heart! I've been watching the thread but didn't post because it would have sounded argumentative without your post. The Mopar suspension science is/was just about as good as they come. Kingpin vs ball joints is mostly a cost thing. Lots fewer parts and assembly time with ball joints. And grease points for owners to overlook! That is also the major justification for R&P. Much simpler and easier to build a nice driving car. Recirculating ball is better IMHO, but requires a greater degree of precision manufacturing to get there. Think about this: back in the day no parts store had rebuilt steering gear in stock or even warehoused. Today R&P replacement is a big business. Bigger drum brakes or disk upgrade, replace parts as needed to remove slack, change springs for ride height adjustment as needed, good shocks and drive it is my recommendation, FWIW.