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Everything posted by kencombs

  1. Since you have no other symptoms I think it is safe to say that too much pressure is not the problem. How about a pic of the plug location, with the plug out? and the replacement plug. edit to add: OK that plug is so small that there will be very little expansion if just dimpled in the middle. The whole dome needs to be flattened in order to get maximum size change when flattened. Be sure the recess has nothing in it, put some sealer in the corner of the recess and try again, with a new plug.
  2. I must have missed the problem description. Is is leaking, where? or overheating?
  3. I think you're on the right track. Why not go higher on the compression if you are doing pistons anyway? Not necessarily into Avgas territory, but 9.5 or so.
  4. JMHO, but I seriously doubt that the radiator cap pressure has any bearing on a welch plug issue. The same type plugs are used in unpressurized and pressurized systems up to 14PSI or more. A properly fitted plug will hold a lot more that 8 PSI. However, my core block from a 56 plymouth had been rebuilt at some time in the past, .010 crank, .040 overbore etc, and had the plugs all just smeared with gasket maker! Obviously the earlier mechanic either had no confidence in his work, or had to fix some leaks after the fact. A nice clean bore and a little Permatex in the seating area and installed correctly, they shouldn't ever leak. I plan to use a new aluminum radiator and up mine to 12 or so since it will eventually have AC installed and may need the higher boiling point.
  5. My take on the seal. The newer neoprene seals can be done right the first time by most anyone. The ropes need some technique or feel that only comes from doing one or a lot
  6. Not on Mopars, but on older Y block Fords (notorious back in the day for rear main leaks), I've replaced the bottom only with some success. Using a small brass drift and small hammer, compress the upper half on both ends as far as possible. Use pieces cut from the new upper section to pack into the resulting cavity. Coat ends with gasket maker and install the bottom half in the normal manner.\\No guarantee, but it works sometimes!
  7. As a matter of fact, the Mopar flatheads were used in tractors and combines!
  8. Not sure what to think of this, says cast steel but most are aluminum. Anyway, I don't need it but if someone does the price is right, IMO. https://www.ebay.com/itm/dodge-automatic-transmission-adapter-for-230-251-engines/273624908540?hash=item3fb550c2fc:g:byQAAOSwk3Rbssij
  9. I've seen several suggestions to pull the head. Please confirm what I think I saw in the original post, the head is off??? if so read on. Since the head is off, a pic of the cylinders may get some better advice. We can evaluate the rust etc and may say, don't bother, or maybe some better ideas. One more idea: if you don't want to go the grease gun or pan pull first: get a good solid piece of wood big enough to go into the cylinder with as little space left as possible. You want the grain vertical and cut square on both ends. That puts the load of the following whack on the outer edges of the piston, not on the weaker center. Landscape timbers are normally oval and 3.5" on the widest dimension so will trim down fairly easily with a plane. Set it on top of each piston and give it a really solid whack with at least a 3 lb hammer. Don''t try to kill it, just break the rings hold on the cylinder wall. and let the penetrating fluid creep past.
  10. If it rolls on wheels/tires and has a trans and driveshaft, rocking back a forth in high gear is a safe way to attempt to move the pistons. Or, find which cylinder has the valves closed and piston starting down on the power stroke. Now put the head back on temporarily, even use the old gasket if you have it. If not, a simple shim gasket made from a pop/beer can around that one cylinder will work. But if you do that, only use bolts around that cylinder or you could warp or crack the head. Make a adapter to attach a grease fitting in the spark plug hole of the cylinder identified above. attach a grease gun and fill the cylinder, shouldn't take much if the piston is near the top. Careful though, as the grease gun trick can generate a lot of pressure. try turning it each day, and add a little more grease if possible. Not guaranteed, but works sometimes. If/once it moves a half turn or so, pull the head. You don't want to hydrolock the engine and break something.
  11. I'm not Mr. Adams, but wire is a ground for the current from the coil to the points. It is very important that it only ground when the points are closed and not when open. After all, that is how a Kettering ignition works.
  12. I think I've told this tale here before but: Dad and I had a 54 chevy tow truck in 60-63 in his salvage. Later 235 but with the original 6v starter, 12v battery. Never had a problem. What I think could cause an issue is running a starter, 6 or 12 with the starter drive not engaged with the flywheel. The rpm is just unbelievable. Centrifugal may be even worse on a 6v since they have heavier windings in the armature. The one you show seems to have the windings thrown out of the core. I can't tell if the soldered connections are just torn or melted. A bad starter drive or someone not using the manual engagement type correctly would be my first suspicion.
  13. I suspect your oring temp fix may be a better seal than the original cork. Unless it's leaking, I see no reason to change it.
  14. That hp rating is sort of misleading as it is taken at 2800 rpm for that industrial application. Simply raising the rpm would undoubtedly raise the rating to near auto levels. Camshaft, distributor, and compression are the items most often changed for stationary use. They are tailored to fit the intended use, speed and fuel. I have been into a couple of forklift/tug 230s and noted no differences from the automotive models, other than the vacuum advance deletion and governor under the carb.
  15. Back when lye was more readily available, I would dissolve it in hot water and add corn starch to create a wall paper paste consistency. Brush on and cover with a plastic drop cloth to keep it wet. Works pretty good, and was cheap. Lye is still available locally, but in small containers, more expensive and kept under lock and key at most stores. Apparently it is a precursor ingredient in some meth recipes. But, it can be ordered on eBay!
  16. Let me offer an alternate electronic conversion idea. On this site is a post detailing the conversion of a later Mopar slant six distributor for our flatties. The advantage over an aftermarket conversion is the availability of local replacements when needed. Beats ordering from pertronix, and they seem to be more reliable also. Lots of pertronix failure stories on the 'net. Not evidence of poor quality necessarily, but it does point to the possibility. Anything electronic will fail in time.
  17. Standard Ignition UC14 coil. Listed on O'reilly's web site. I looked up the PN on rockauto.com. Favorite site of mine. easy to find PNs by application then search the web by PN. edit to add: NGK 48772 both 6v, direct replacement for your stock coil. Don's pic is for the correct parts for a 12v upgrade if you go to a 12v system.
  18. The lack of responses is probably indicative of the rarity of your project! Even fewer would still have an M6 and be modified for more power. M6's have never been noted as a performance trans. bullet-proof reliable, smooth to drive yes, but not a neck-snapper. A lot of early hemis now occupy a non-Mopar home in someone's hot rod. Sure wish I still had my 57 Ford stepside w/354 and Torqueflite. As to your carb plan, I can think of no reason that the trans controls shouldn't work from the center carb. The ends can be standard linkage, progressive linkage, or vacuum operated, whatever you want to engineer. The 3 deuce setup will look great. But, a single 4 barrel will probably outperform it. And probably a lot cheaper unless you luck into a deal on a 3x2 setup.
  19. Those worked well back in the day. Your plan shouldn't be too hard to execute. Matching a cylinder would be a challenge, got to get the diameter right to get the boost 'feel' ok and the stroke length, so it would give full travel and not bottom out. My plan, if I ever get to it, is to use a power steering unit from an early solid front axle 4wd pickup. They mount very similar to my '56 Dodge. I I have one on the shelf along with a spare, good condition original box in case I change my mind. My reason for selecting a box change is primarily to get rid of that solid steel spear pointing at my chest. I'll be substituting a collapsible column, GM as wiring for them is available everywhere. Also have one of those from a floor shift car on the shelf. The biggest issue with the Toy, will be adapting the pitman arm to get full range of motion and steering feel.
  20. Since your wheel has no holes for a puller, you can use a bearing splitter like the one pictured with a 'normal' steering wheel puller. The splitter has holes tapped for the puller bolts, at least that one and mine have them.. It's not necessary to have a two jaw type puller to use the splitter. And the splitter is useful for a lot of pulling/pressing jobs, not just steering wheels.
  21. Maybe this will help you sort it out in your mind. The red above is correct. Also the blue, but only after the ignition switch is fed by thfe amp gauge. So the switch is used to isolate those items when turned off, but the horn and lights work with the switch off. The ign sw to reg connection is also to isolate the charging system when the key is off, the reg actually feeds the switch. Current from the Arm terminal is sent to the switch through the regulator contacts and thus to the battery. The direction of flow is really important in an overall understanding. When reading diagrams like this, it helps to start at the battery 'hot' post (neg or pos, depending on you chassis ground) and follow the flow from there.
  22. If the hub is tapped for puller bolts, just go buy a cheap puller. Probably less than 10 bucks. Pullers like the one shown in the pic are a good way to ruin a wheel.
  23. Remember that alignment can be spot on, but still have a steering gear center/wheels straight ahead mismatch.
  24. I also like more caster, helps with wander and aids return to center. Also be sure the wheels are straight ahead when the gear is centered. Things can be assembled so that is not true and will cause the return to center problem. Wheels straight ahead and gear offcenter will really feel wonky.
  25. What are the markings on the bolt head? In most cases that will indicate the grade. But, on older stuff it may not be marked. 3 dashes are gr5, 5 dashes are gr8. As far as tension, not shear: torque is tension. The chain load when running would be shear. Most important, there is no way to tell how many times it has been removed, replaced, retorqued or even changed in its' life.
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