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kencombs

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Everything posted by kencombs

  1. kencombs

    I may have shot myself in the foot!!

    I'd try an extra gasket. But, the best solution would be to find a plug with similar heat range, but not off the projected tip design. Those are much longer than the stock recommended plug.
  2. kencombs

    Bench seat mounts

    I'm partial to Chrysler mini-van middle row seats from a 'stow and go' optioned van. They have a folding arm rest on the side facing the center and the back folds flat down to the cushion. And a lot of them are leather. Those are in my ever-changing plan for my '56 PU. Edit to add: They also recline quite a ways, useful if you car has room for that, my PU won't.
  3. kencombs

    Hound dog hauler

    Back when sludged up engines where common, '60s, lots of parafin oils, no PCV etc, we flushed a lot of them. Always covered the radiator when idling and get them to 200+ for several minutes. Actually get them to near boiling for a while, That gets the oil hot also. Pull spark plugs, a little penetrating oil of choice in each hole, let it set for a few minutes and change oil. But, I've never had success with cleaning the sump with those. Better to start with a clean pan. Pull, clean reinstall. Then do the internal flush. that also gives you the opportunity to be sure the pickup screen is clear.
  4. kencombs

    304ss exhaust to manifold corrosion / help needed

    Personally, I wouldn't worry about that at all. By definition, galvanic corrosion requires dissimilar metals in contact in the presence of an electrolyte. That last item is almost nonexistent in an exhaust application. Couple that info with the fact that stainless exhaust and cast manifolds are the most commonly used materials in today's auto production and my conclusion is: No problem.
  5. I had a '78 Le Baron, 318, torqueflite and I think 2.73 rear. Not real quick 0-30, but OK after than and a nice highway cruiser.
  6. I agree wholeheartedly on the powerflite, but the Torqueflite is a totally different animal. Yes, OD would be nice, but the torqueconverter and nice gear spreads make the use of a much higher rear gear possible.
  7. There's really nothing antiquated about that torqueflite, unless you are counting a 3spd auto as old tech. No overdrive, but a darn good trans. Much more suited to the 230 than a 2spd.
  8. As stated above, the 230 had autos fitted in the mid to late 50s from the factory. The powerflite or torqueflite (cast iron version). The torqueflite could be had in either water or air cooled, I think only air cooled behing 6 cyl or smaller v8s. I had a Dodge 325 with the air cooled version way back when. There is a guy over on the HAMB that has a torqueflite from a package van. Last time he mentioned it it was complete. that has the ebrake, pushbutton shift etc. I don't know about under car clearances but otherwise that should be a boltin, IF your crank bolt count and pattern is the same.
  9. I don't have one now, but when I did the feature most used was the ability to shift out of o/d in anticipation of a hill that would require direct drive without 'flooring' the throttle. Or in preparation for an upcoming passing opportunity. Also driving in traffic in second gear, in/out of OD as speed varied. Much easier on the leg that 2/3 shift with the clutch.
  10. I see main bearings speced for 'with torque converter'. I know at one time a different part number was listed for automatic trans 230s versus a standard shift. But, the crankshaft dimensions are the same. Anybody know what the actual bearing difference may be? I suspect a stronger material on the thrust surface, but I'm guessing.. And, would these be useable in a standard shift?? Edit to add: AFAIK, all current listings show one PN to service auto and manual trans. The ones I've seen for 'torque converter' where NOS
  11. kencombs

    230 main bearings....For Torque Converter????

    Jeff, you're right. Working on a standard shift application, but have seen the TC mains for sale cheaper than 'normal'. And,looking to see if they could be used.
  12. kencombs

    Tire size question for p-15

    According to my calculation, a 6.70x15 is about 2inches taller than the 215-70r15. And even then, it will vary a bit by maker. 6.70 x 2 + 15 = 28.4. 215 in inches is 5.9. ((5.9 x 2)x.7) + 15 = 26.8. A 225 would be closer. BTW a 6.00 x 16 should be exactly 28 diameter. Just a hair smaller than the 670x15. I think the difference is in maker as noted above. That shouldn't be true but unfortunately not every tire company adheres to the size printed on the tire. Especially the oriental makers. EDIT to add this copied from Coker's web site: Numeric sized tires (such as 6.00-16 or 6.70-15) that end in zero feature a 90-series aspect ratio, while numeric sizes that end in five (such as 6.95-14) feature an 80-series aspect ratio. I used 100 in the above calculation, as i've found on 4 1/2" wheels at 32PSI they are always over 90. On wider wheel and 28PSI they are closer to 90 .
  13. kencombs

    Fluid Drive Transmission adaptability

    If your engine is original it is likely a 230. The easiest upgrade to gain power, scads of low end torque actually. would be a 251 or better, a 265. That will bolt up to your clutch housing. It is a couple of inches longer and will necessitate moving the radiator forward. But, that is easily done. Both of those are becoming harder to find but are still around if you look harder and ask a lot.
  14. kencombs

    Hound dog hauler

    I had a lot of buildup in a little tilt cab diesel truck. Radiator was beyond repair, every tube was just rotten and lots of crud. Ordered a radiator and while waiting on delivery, I filled the block with white vinegar. Let it set for a couple of days, flushed and repeated. By the third iteration, it finally flushed clear. After a year or so of use the coolant is still rust free. Vinegar is a mild acid, as is molasses, a little stronger so works faster. Your muratic acid will work but the fumes will rust everything in the shop if not handled very carefully. I use it to clean metal for soldering, but do it outside because of that.
  15. kencombs

    230 main bearings....For Torque Converter????

    Great info! thanks for posting. So, if the bearing size is the same, I wonder what the bearing cap difference might be?? And would the TC bearing fit a non TC cap? After thinking about it some more, I suspect the cap difference is in the oil flow to the Hy-drive, as the engine and trans share oil supplies. I'll see if there is a flow diagram on the net somewhere.
  16. kencombs

    Teaching my grandson to drive a stick

    Don, he'g gonna have a real shock when the time comes for him to drive a non-fluiddrive stick! Clutch feel is a tad different!. And, shifting is not optional. That's why the FD was so good back in the day, and today.
  17. kencombs

    Starter Removal

    These aren't cheap, but a set will be the handiest thing in your tool box: with a compact 3/8 drive impact or air ratchet they are a great time and knuckle saver.
  18. Before anyone can answer that question they will need to know how you actually have it wired. You posted a diagram, but stated that the kickdown isn't installed. So we have know way of knowing how it is actually installed. Also, if you're not using the kickdown, only a toggle, a simple on/of single pole/single throwf is all that's needed. The single pole/double throw, three terminal switch isn't necessary and only complicates the discussion.
  19. kencombs

    48 Chrysler New Yorker starting issue

    I know this is heresy to purists/restorers but for a driver, an electric pump will prevent those issues. Install near the fuel tank, out of sight. Wire to a hidden switch us.nder the dash and only use to prime the system after disuse for several days. Near instant starts. 6v pumps aren't common, but can be found.
  20. kencombs

    Fuel Mixture Screw doesn't change the idle.

    And I agree wholeheartly. The wording of your original opening sentence confused me, not that it's hard to do that! I think we agree that the Idle speed is the first thing to check. If it can't be reduced without stalling, time to check the fuel passage under the rivet plug.
  21. kencombs

    Fuel Mixture Screw doesn't change the idle.

    OK, that differs from my understanding so let's discuss. It has always been my understanding that the idle air bleed only serves to atomize the fuel being metered by the idle mixture screw. The bulk of the air ingested at idle comes from the almost closed butterfly valve. The control of idle speed is from the butterfly stop screw. The idle mixture screw meters the correct amount of fuel, not air. It is of note that all the manual that I have available state that turning the screw counterclockwise (opening) richens the mixture and clockwise leans the mixture indicating fuel metering. How wrong am I? Anyway, with my understanding, I think the idle fuel passage is plugged or partially so. That is assuming the idle speed is within range. If not, start with lowering it. To the op, did you remove the rivet plug above th,e idle mixture screw and carefully clean the passage, as well as the one from the mixture screw to the carb's bore.
  22. kencombs

    '53 Dodge Junkyard Project

    Let me second this. Once a block has been vatted or cleaned in an oven, the oil is gone. But there will be remnants in the form of sand like granules all through the engine.I think that is due to carbon particles, combustion byproducts, that have bypassed the rings and the oil carries it everywhere. That, in the case of the oven cleaning processes, it's ash. IMO, that is a process that shouldn't be used. I've seen the results of engines assembled without properly flushing all the passages. Not pretty. Bearings had scoring overall surfaces in just a few minutes run time. Mine will be cleaned by a long soak in my little home vat and a lot of pressure washer work with all plugs out. Followed by gun cleaning brushes, solvent and air.
  23. kencombs

    Synthetic oil

    IMO, formed after many, many, many years of working on engines and lots of study of oil info is this: the need for zinc is driven by a combination of four things: Valve spring rate. Light springs are easy on wear, The heavier they become the more demanding of oil. Valve opening rate: Some high performance cams have very rapid open and closing rates which really stress the cam/lifer interface. That is what drove the development of roller based lifters and cam followers. RPM, The faster it turns the more wear per operating minute. Newer engines normally have a much lower highway cruise RPM, but are capable of much more than our flatties. My 5.7 Toyota cruises at less that 2k, but will shift a 6.5K if I make it. I think it's electronically governed at 7k, but i don't intend to find out for sure. Valve train weight. Long push rods, big 'normal' steel valves, heavy rocker arms etc, require lots of push to overcome their inertia. And, lots of spring pressure to reseat. Our flatties have light springs, really slow opening and closing rates, aren't capable of really high rpm and have short light valve trains. My '56 that's getting worked over for my pickup had mostly tar in the oil pan!! Cam and crank fine. So, I'd feel OK with no added zinc, but use a high zinc oil. belt and suspenders kind of guy
  24. kencombs

    ANSWERED 1949 Dodge B1D - no oil pressure

    Best answer so far IMO. The fact that you see oil coming into the oil filer canister indicates to me that you do have oil pressure. That's because the oil is only routed to the filter when there is sufficient flow and pressure to direct oil to that area. IOW, the bearings get priority, excess would go to the filter.
  25. kencombs

    230 dodge w/Edgy aluminum head, problems

    Yeah, but he stated that the flow in the radiator was good. the hose into the radiator comes from the head. AFAIK.there is no way to determine the flow through the head other that observing the radiator hose flow. So, what exactly is the observed probem? That is my question. If it were mine, I'd be shooting the head temp with an laser thermometer, available at HF cheaply. If there is a problem that would show it up easily.
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