kencombs

I only use that tacky gasket stuff if installing in a really difficult spot or lots of bolt holes to line up, like an oil pan. WP doesn't fit any of those and that stuff is why old gaskets are so hard to properly clean. It's not really necessary for sealing if the surfaces and clean and flat. That said, I do use the black silicone stuff a lot. But not a bead like the instructions say, that's way to much for a flat machined surface. I use vinyl gloves to apply a v e r y thin coat with my fingers. Thin enough that almost none is visible when tightened. It can even be used on the bolt threads which you must use something on.

Probably be easier/faster to swap the axle gears in the carrier. AFAIK, all the axle and spider gears are the same for years except for the spline count. I once swapped the axle gears from a '65 Dart into a 55 Chrysler center section.. Yep, one tapered axle and the other with wheel flanges. Years apart, direct swap. I think they come out and go in without disturbing and settings. But, I you do need to pull the carrier, only the carrier bearing preload and backlash would be disturbed and those are easy to reset if needed.

Yeah, I've had 318a, 273s and a few B series but never lost a WP. Lucky, maintenance or maybe Mopar used a better alloy. Wouldn't take much nickle in it to prevent rusting.

Kinda hard to see with that shield in the way and dark photo, but it sure looks Fordish to me. 8 and 9 inch look a lot alike, the oly way I can tell is the lower bolts that hold the center section into the housing. If you can reach all of them with a socket and ratchet, it's an 8-incher, if one requires an end wrench it's a 9.

Maintenance is more important than color, agreed. At least IMHO. Dad bought a new Ford Taurus in about 86. Probably never changed it. I was driving it after he passed in 95. Taking Mom somewhere and noticed the temp would rise whenever it idled and the heater was almost non-existent. Very low water flow. Pulled the pump and found that almost all the impeller was rusted away. Ford saved a few cents using plain stamped steel instead of cast or stainless.

Need to see the pinion end to really know.

I do the same for a new install. Once the clearance is established, check the free play. As it wears, and the play deduces only the free play needs to be reset.

Some copper and brass or alloys of those and connected with lead based solder.

Exactly, the current flow is from the post through the internal wiring and then to ground.

Green in that area is likely due to the solder flux not being completely removed when the fill neck was installed. Common thing. Mild acid, little scrub brush and follow with a soda water flush and scrub should get it ready for paint if you wish.

I don't think polarity really makes any difference to the starter, but the ground (black lead) from the charger/booster goes to the stud on the starter, the 'hot' (red) red goes to the starter case. You terms above kinda confused me. The stud must be isolated from the case. Check with a meter. It would be good practice to just replace all the parts surrounding it, washers/bushings etc, with new just to be sure.

Coil question: IMO, a bypass resistor is the way to go, if you are staying with points ignition. Better / hotter spark when cranking. 12V to a 6v coil is good for cold weather starts. In my case it's getting a real 12v coil, slant six distributor mod and a GM HEI controller. edit: As to the coil bursting: Sounds like what happens when one leaves power to the coil, engine not running and points closed. Makes no difference what type of coil you have, it will get hot and go bang if left like that long enough.

Most, if not all, rebuilders will surface grind the pressure plate. Whether yours is too deeply grooved to save, I don't know.

Reminder probably not needed for most of us, but cell phone and charger are necessary facilitators for the towing, credit cards and insurance contacts. I have a little snapon box originally sold as a container for small socket sets. It's only maybe 6w, 12L and maybe an inch tall. But it will hold a ratchet, 3/8 to 3/4 socket set, a couple of small screwdrivers, pliers, probe type circuit tester. Fits most anywhere. If that doesn't get me going, the cell phone will!

Not a factory install for sure, but since the truck isn't original it is possible that it was installed by a previous owner. The pics aren't clear enough under the hood to see if there is wiring for it at the carb.

The ground must be through the points, that is the purpose of the wire in the diagram.

Is that NiCop or just plain copper? if the latter please consider swapping it.

The only thing that comes to mind, other than mismatched bearings and crank,is the oil delivery tube from the pump side to the oil gallery. Bad fit or not tightened?

We've all been there! Both sides of the accusation too. At the risk of wandering too far into religion I'd suggest we all try to remember 'do unto others, etc'. We'd all be better for it.

3 spd w/fluid coupling = Fluid Drive Gyro Matic = M6 trans (2 spd trans with 2spd OD integral) behind a fluid coupling.

You probably won't find a automotive resistor of the correct value. I'd probably just measure the current draw of the original coil on the 8v system and calculate the resistance needed to drop it to 6v. Ohms law and all that. At a guess, maybe two wire wound resistors from a 60s GM or Ford in parallel may be close. They drop 12v to about 8 or so and two in parallel would halve the resistance. But I really don't remember the current draw of the 12v system so can't do the math, to many unknowns

It gets converted to Iron Phosphate (FePo4). So the rust (FeO2) becomes FePo4 due to the interaction and 'stealing a couple of O atoms from the converter. A good coating of it seals the underlying steel preventing further rusting. But, the original rust must not have any loose areas lest they break loose, crack and breech that seal. Same thing the expensive moisture cured coatings do, except they are more durable. I choose to use the Ospho which is partially phosphoric acid, which provides the Phosphate part if the formula and strengthen the sealing part with a liberal coat of epoxy primer. Epoxy sticks to anything, and everything will stick to epoxy making a good choice both as a rust sealer and underlayment for filler primer.

Yes, merging like that is called zipper merge and works well if everyone remembers and obeys the 'every other car in the zipper'. But there's always one, or more, that need to be first. I've driven through 15 states or so in the last year and most of them had similar signs in construction zones. Makes sense a as all available lanes are used as long as possible which in theory speeds traffic flow. OK is one of those states that doesn't encourage passing the white walkway at intersections until your path is clear for a left turn. No marking, don't enter the cross traffic lanes, lest you be caught blocking them when the light changes.

Reasonable is a really open ended term ya know. I had a reasonable estimate in my head for my pu. About x I thought. I’m at 2x, cost and time. Still ‘reasonable’ as my definition has changed.

I think it depends on what your goal is. In my case, I removed almost all the visible rust with rust and paint stripping disks on a 4.5" grinder. So I only needed the converter to deal will little bits in pits or sheet metal folds, like at fender reinforcements and door skins. For that I used Ospho. I've used Picklex 20 which is really good, but come at a premium cost! That was followed with a quick hit with 80 grit and epoxy primer. In the door skin and fender lap areas the primer was literally poured in as I had the parts on a table so I could roll it around to get it into every nook and cranny. I don't trust any rust converter to work if the rust hasn't been removed first to a great degree. Sanding, grinding, stripper disk, acid or something needs to get to the metal. Because, the primer bonds to the converter, the converter supposedly bonds the converted outer layer of rust to the substrate. And in all the tests I've done and seen online there is always red rust between the metal and the black converted layer. If the rust de-bonds from the metal, the 'sandwich' will eventually fail, IMHO. Just don't trust that.