kencombs
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Everything posted by kencombs
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Mine is all back together, but the engine has not been installed. Later this summer, I hope. Got to remember to finish the full flow oil filter plumbing before starting too!!
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Or, hook a timing light the coil output lead. Watch closely for a pattern miss. If not there, try each plug wire in turn. Best case, find a local car nut with an old fashioned ignition scope.
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That's one of the reasons I opted for the slant six mod for my build. 80ish Dodge PU slant six distributor donated its innards and it will be mated to a GM HEI controller. No resistor or condenser needed, with the right 12v coil
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Ford has had issues with variable valve timing for years, on more than one engine design. Yet other brands seem to have it figured out. My 5.7 Tundra is nearing 90K with no issues. Nor have I ever heard on any on the 'net.
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I've given up on a 33/34 Ford. Wanted one for years, but the prices have become unreachable for me. Unless, I build one, and I've got way to many unfinished things already.
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I ignored it too. But a mistake like that causes me to wonder about the vendor quality.
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What gasket? Seal goes in first.
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Yes, very true. That second lip is to protect the real sealing lip from dirt etc.
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Seems to me that selecting a coil-over that will fit into the original spring location would be best. Shock mounts are almost never designed to support the weight of the vehicle. The stock spring location is. A double shear mount in the upper frame pocket and lower a-frame should be fairly easy to do. However, that choice would place some tight constraints on the coil-over and may require a custom item.
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Never fail rule for me: The lip of a seal should always face the fluid.
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Yep, it is dust shield to lessen wear on the seal itself. Was a big thing, great idea back when these things were operated a lot on dirt and/or gravel roads. Still not a bad idea, just not as needed.
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Let me take a shot at explaining my redneck, Okie way of doing this. Most have turned there nose up at using a chisel. But a cape chisel is perfect for those. Lay the cover down with the outside up, and supported from the back. Piece of pipe, sockets, whatever. Use the cape chisel from the front but on the inside of the seal. Force it into or under the rubber so that it contacts the inside back of the seal itself. Solid hit with a 16 oz hammer should unseat it in that spot move 90deg and repeat, and repeat, etc.
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You''re right about the expense! Auto machine shops are a dying breed, and the survivors are charging for their knowledge, time and machine investment. Take a look at the pricing for head machines, boring and surfacing machines and it is obvious that the price is justifiable, but it doesn't make me like it. In the old days our local guy used a bolt to the block type boring bar, manual seat replacement tooling, washed the hot tank junk down the drain, seat grinding tools(stones) and charged very little. Those days are gone forever.
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I thought that's what sleeves were for!
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Taps don't work, need to HIT it. I hope you meant that you are hitting the seal with a drift not the 'timing cover' as stated?
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Clean some paint off and it should be obvious. One side will be larger in diameter than the other. Or, wait til the new one is in your hands. And, BTW, that is not a seal removal tool, it is an installation tool. I guess one could use it to remove, but I've never seen one used for that. A punch or chisel works best for removal IME.
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Yes it would. 'cause that chassis never had a 25" engine from the factory. Many, many years ago I put a 251 in a car , think it was an early 50s plymouth, that had a 23. Notched the crossmember. Moved radiator to front of the support. And drilled new mount holes. But, the pickup like mine was designed for either as it was used in Oz, USA and Canada with local assembly changes.
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The difference is in the location of the front mounts. For, instance my 56 pickup frame is built in such a way that RH drive and 25inch engines could be install for export builds. There are two sets of front mount holes in the front crossmember. The rear mount doesn;t change, just the front mount and radiator location.
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You need manifold vacuum. Usually available below the carb. If you have vacuum wipers that's a good place.
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Oil leak under chaincase cover on 48 DeSoto!
kencombs replied to MarcDeSoto's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Depends, do you have an impact wrench? If so, that is the answer. Otherwise I prefer a box end wrench and 3-4lb hammer to loosen. Always afraid the breaker bar would somehow rotate and damage something. -
Mitsubishi is the undisputed leader in mini-splits, especially the Hyper-heat units. But that expertise and performance comes at a cost.
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I had a dual fuel system install in 1980, long before that became common. Mine was the only one local installers had experienced. In '73-74 I did first heat pump and really liked it, but the electric backup/supplemental was expensive on really cold days. And, heat pumps were not as efficient below freezing as today's are. So, when I built the '80 I did heat pumps with propane aux heat. NG wasn't available at the time or I would have used it. Very happy with that set up. In my home today I have a high efficiency mini split in a room I added on. Works down to zero and very cheap to operate. Depending on the size and design of the home, mini splits can be a good solution.
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Search for 'threaded shaft collar' at Mcmaster-Carr, or similar online store. You can use one of those in the right size to replace the nut on your tool. Or, modify your nut using that design as a guide. Drill and tap a setscrew hole and saw a split into the nut. But, it's kind of tricky to drill at an angle like that so close to the edge. If you have a welder or can braze one can add and 'ear' on the nut to use for the clamp. In any case, the result is a nut with no play in the threads once clamped.
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The area of the pics is not where the problem is likely to be. The flange that bolts to the trans and the pieces that go on the u-joint at more likely to not be seated correctly. Try bolting the flange in place without the joint and shaft then turn and look for 'wobble'.
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The first thing I'd check is the install/bolt to the trans. Looks to me as it the flange surfaces aren't seated squarely. Should be easy to see by just looking squarely at ujoint and mating parts while turning the driveshaft by hand.
