Jump to content

kencombs

Members
  • Content count

    295
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About kencombs

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • My Project Cars
    56 1/2T

Converted

  • Location
    claremore ok
  • Interests
    old cars and woodworking

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. kencombs

    Exhaust smoke and oil consumption

    IMO, the chances of valve guides causing excessive oil use in our flatheads in almost nil. There is no oil delivered to the valve / tappet chamber other than a small amount of mist from the crank. So, the guides and stems are not flooded with oil like an overhead valve would be. Smoking on deceleration is usually due to worn oil rings not properly wiping the oil from the cylinder walls and the vacuum above the piston sucking it into the chamber. Or, more accurately, the air pressure in the crankcase pushing it up. I'd pull the head and measure the cylinder size and taper. It may be possible to just hone and ring, but don't be suprised if it needs more. I recently tore down a 56 Ply engine that had been 'overhauled' sometime in the not to distant past, at least recent in terms of miles. The piston crowns still showed scratch marks from decarboning, but were covered with a thick layer of soft, wet carbon. .010/.010 crank, good bearings, but the cylinders have at least 15 thou wear. I didn't even bother to measure taper/egg shape wear when calipers revealed that much wear . They must have reamed out a huge ridge and put in standard rings!
  2. kencombs

    Need help , Engine misses / stumbles

    Maybe time to consider the slant 6 electronic conversion. Parts readily available for the advance and upgrade to electronic too boot.
  3. kencombs

    Compression test results

    They probably assume that a head removal would also entail valve work. Not a bad assumption, in most cases. Probably should be called a valve grind set though.
  4. kencombs

    Chrome alternative

    That reminds me of the demos of Muggyweld by the salesman. Looks so easy. But I've never been able to weld/solder/braze whatever it is, an aluminum can with it. Guess that makes be suspicious of demos. But I'd love to try it, but not at the cost I've seen for it. Cheaper than chrome for sure, but LOTS higher than paint.
  5. kencombs

    rear axle swap

    Or synchronizer worn. Since it does shift after a wait, I'd lean toward that. c As to the heat, since we can feel what you do I have to ask: how hot is too hot. When you drive far enough the clutch housing will be near engine block temp. I think getting worse in first gear may be just the friction material changing as it warms up. It is really doubtful that the trans is impacting the clutch operation
  6. kencombs

    The Extremely Versatile Universal Slant 6

    a couple of slant 6 stories. When I was about 19 I worked for an airline as an aircraft records clerk on the flight line of an overhaul base. We were located on the opposite side of the airport from the passenger terminals. Daily work required several trips to/from the terminal, about a 6mi round trip. We bought a 63 crew cab 3/4 with a slanty and Torqueflite. When I left that job, it has about 130,000mi and with 127 different drivers! Never missed a beat. Slow as molasses since it was so heavy, but bulletproof. When I was much older, my oldest daughter had a Swinger, 74 model, cherry one owner. She married a quy with the mechanical knowledge of a rock. He was driving her car to work, about 45 mi one way. He called on morning saying the car go hot and wouldn't start.. I was drafted to go get him and it. When I asked how far he drove it after it overheated. 'till it stopped!!!" I pulled head and pan. Bearings were fine! Rings were toast. Replaced rings, rod bearings to just because, did a quick valve touchup grind. It ran perfectly for years after that mistreatment. Those things are just indestructible.
  7. kencombs

    1949 Chrysler New Yorker rear tire lockups

    Your way is the factory shop manual way! Tapered assembles are never to be lubed. For two reasons: the one you stated and the possibility of splitting the female part. The last isn't likely with steel, but can happen with cast parts. Every manual I've seen that provided instructions for reassembly clearly states, clean, dry surfaces.
  8. kencombs

    1949 Chrysler New Yorker rear tire lockups

    I've seen older bonded linings separate from the metal and lock the wheel(s) when it wedged between the remaining shoe and drum. Backing up will free them. Then driving forward again could cause a scraping sound. It would be unusual for both to happen, but if it's been unused for a while anything's possible.
  9. kencombs

    1949 Chrysler New Yorker rear tire lockups

    It's not clear to me when or how the brakes locked. Just driving down the road and the spontaneously lock? Lock when stopping and won't release ? Or????
  10. kencombs

    rear axle swap

    I'm no expert, but my money would be on a pressure plate that was never adjusted correctly, finger heights uneven and/or a defective flywheel surface. Have the flywheel ground, don't even look If possible have the clutch disk and pressure plate serviced by a shop that does the rebuild in house. Much more likely to get a well built set than from any parts house. Their sources are not as experienced. Lastly, make sure that when the new clutch/pressure plate/T/O bearing are installed that the free play is correctly set. Many new sets have been ruined when a new T/O bearing was left touching the fingers. ruins bearing in short order and if really tight can cause clutch slippage/heat all kinds of bad things.
  11. kencombs

    Hand Crank a 218

    Don't rely on the ramp. Take a close look, it's designed to push the crank clear when the engine starts. There is a straight face toward the crank if/when the engine kicks back in a cc direction. The only way to avoid that, is never, ever, have hold of the crank when it's on a down stroke and you're pushing, pull up only and never have your thumb wrapped around the handle. All that and pray.
  12. kencombs

    rear axle swap

    I agree. I can't think of any rear end problem that would eat clutches. OP, tell us more about the clutch issue and maybe someone can help. Has hte flywheel been surfaced, pressure plate new or rebuilt etc.
  13. kencombs

    Craigslisters

    They're just people. Remember, 1/2 of us are below average. some way below.
  14. kencombs

    Car crushers

    When my Dad retired, 1990, from his salvage business he crushed all his remaining cars. Most were just hulls and had no real value, no classics etc., with one exception. He had a '58 'bird, complete. It had been on the lot for years and never sold any parts off of it. They were just not popular around here. I could have had it for the taking but was so tied up with my job at the time I passed. Boy, do I regret that now.
  15. kencombs

    Where do I connect the amp gauge wires?

    On most cars of that era, the amp gauge indicates +-30. Most all alternators output far exceeds that. And, a voltmeter will actually show your gattery condition not just plus or minus usage vs charge available.
×

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use