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About kencombs

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • My Project Cars
    56 1/2T


  • Location
    claremore ok
  • Interests
    old cars and woodworking
  1. Frame, dirty, clean, painted

    I'm researching for my work on the '56PU. I found info on Prep and Etch, which is a Kleanstrip product, but nothing on Prep and Prime. Do you have a link to any info on that??
  2. Vac assisted electric wipers?

    There are also alternators with provisions for mounting a vacuum pump on the back end.
  3. Coil and distributor wiring issues

    Can you provide either a diagram of your test set up, or a pic showing the connections, power source etc?
  4. Need some help with my rear brakes

    As stated by AndyD, there is really no need to remove the backing plate for a brake job. I just put a big oil change pan under it, scrape and brush away the crud. The, empty the pan, add some solvent, slide it under the backing plate and scrub with a parts brush.
  5. Is 180 psi in engine ok?

    even with really low compression, with ether you should get something. So I'd be checking for spark... primary circuit, 12 to coil, points etc. Points making and breaking circuit properly. rotor, cap, wires and plugs. If all that is good it should at least pop a few times. As stated Marvel Mystery Oil will help free the rings. But, IMO a shot of ATF will work almost as well, especially with 50% acetone added.
  6. Electrical issues

    I can't think of anything in or on an ammeter that would or could click. However, there is a self-resetting circuit breaker in the headlight circuit that could do that. It is close enough that it could seem like the meter was making the noise And, that coupled with a short in the light circuit could account for one of your other problems. t
  7. Lack of parts support can be an issue , however a lot of the internals, timing chain, sprockets, oil pump etc interchanges with the LA series.You can even drop an LA crank in them to use later flywheels. As far as technology goes, the only advantages the LA held of over the a back in the decision day where economic. Lighter castings, simpler heads to machine etc. The head design is quite similar to the big block chevy, remember the 'porcupine head' label when chevy rolled out the big block for NASCAR? Excellent flow with the offset valves. There are guys making big horsepower with them today. Only problem is, they spend BIG money to do it! I drove my Dad's 57 318 a lot in high school and my own 273 Dart 4barrel 4 speed years later so the two designs aren't new to me. Gas mileage was directly related to the weight of my size 11 1/2s! When the 318 was used for family stuff, we regularly saw 18+, when I drove it dating, not so much!. I'd bet the poly would outperform the Magnum version using modern electronics. But, I'm not going to waste the money needed to find out.
  8. FYI, the relay Mopar used for this function is a Standard Motor Parts SR105. Should be able to find that at any parts store. And, it's almost guaranteed to do what you need. Not so sure about a diode in a potentially high current situation.
  9. No, I didn't suggest the 6 distributor, it's just that your distributor's reluctor does the same thing and will drive a GM module without any need for a resistor or relay or special wiring.
  10. I think I'll stay with the 6 for now. But will continue to keep the v8 idea open in the future. since I want power steering, ready availability of pumps and mounts, as well as maybe A/C would be a plus. I had a 277 but gave it away since it needed far more machine work and parts than I wanted to put into it. Maybe a poly 318 should be in my future??
  11. Yeah, I see your problem. You definitely need a means to send 12v to the coil when starter activated, but with no continuity from coil to starter solenoid pull in coil when not in start position. A relay is the right answer IMO. I think Mopars in the 80s/90s used such. Or you can just use a simple headlight relay from the parts store. Or, replace the Mopar ECU with a GM HEI module and the wiring is really simplified, not need for the resistor or bypass wiring. Better/hotter spark and dwell control too. GM on a Mopar: blasphemy I know but in this case it may be better. Somewhere on this site is a how to on that. Some guys have used the slant 6 electronic distributor, with mods of course, to run there flatties and used the GM module. That's my plan at the moment for my '56 1/2T.
  12. I think you need a relay to send 12v to the coil when the starter is activated, not a direct connection. On older Fords and some Mopars there was a starter relay that had two small posts, one to engage the relay and one to to coil. With your starter you could use a common head light relay to do that. Or, if your connections are available, you can use the post that is only hot when the starter is running. Again a pic is worth a thousand words.
  13. Not an expert, but it sounds to me like the wiring is incorrect. The S wire should not go the a terminal on the solenoid that provides the current to engage the solenoid. Post a pic of the solenoid in use. s
  14. Thanks, after rereading the info at Allpar, I found that only the very early hemis had a different locating dowel location. even those could be interchanged by removing the dowels. But, I'm still not clear on which early hemis, only that it wasn't the extended block Chryslers in 53/54. But I think all that means that my clutch housing meant for an A series 318 should work with a later LA or even magnum. IF, I decide to not use my flattie.