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About kencombs

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • My Project Cars
    56 1/2T


  • Location
    claremore ok
  • Interests
    old cars and woodworking
  1. Alternative trans

    Try visiting here: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/ these guys are all about traditional hot rods and the LaSalle was once much sought after. Maybe someone is still looking. And they an likely help with a replacement model advice.
  2. Front axle castle nut

    I think the solution I'd use, is just drill a new hole and use a nut/lock like this:
  3. Has my 218 ever been rebuilt?

    That's true, I just like to save a buck when I can, so I'd prefer not to replace the bearings and pay to have the block vatted. Especially since I've got to reclean and verify all passages are clear before assembly anyway. And, I don't like to install cam bearings without the proper driver tool. and I sold mine a few years back when I thought I'd never need it again. It can be done without it, I just don't like to.
  4. Flywheel

    Not quite: https://www.facebook.com/Tulsa-Brake-Clutch-Co-LLC-199345430102494/
  5. Has my 218 ever been rebuilt?

    I agree with all the above, except hot tanking the block. Unless the cam bearing are worn, or the block really dirty, I'd just wash it well. Solvent first, flush all passages, soapy water finish and rinse well. Don't forget to hone first and oil cylinders when done. I say this because hot tanking will most likely ruin the cam bearings, adding to the overall cost of the project. Given this was a past rebuild, they are probably good, but measurement will tell for sure. Last item: I'd also carefully check the valve guides before replacing. Again, with it's history likely not needed.
  6. Scare of my life.

    I guess I just need to get older, maybe 74 isn't old enough to understand. The Ford example I gave was in the late sixties, long before antilock. Seriously, let me try to explain it another way: a good braking system should allow one to lock every wheel at exactly the same time, not one, two or three but all four. If they won't do that it makes it impossible to modulate the braking the all 4 to near lockup without actually sliding the tires Most older trucks will lock the rear wheels long before the fronts are near max braking. If you keep the rears rolling, you're not near the max braking of the front. So, more brake power up front or less in the rear is the answer. Actually more front and rear but still with a front bias, with today's tires would be optimum. My 225/75 radials stick a lot better than the 6.00 x 16 originals!
  7. Scare of my life.

    Of course your correct, but the point is: The rears locked way before the fronts even got close to maximum braking. That is/was due to two things: One, the rear was very light relative to the front and Two, the front brakes were much too small for the added weight and wider tires than original.
  8. Scare of my life.

    I'm planning my '56 build and brakes are on the list. My take on the loaded/unloaded issue is this: A proportioning valve will help with the unloaded problem but at the cost of rear axle braking capacity when loaded. But that may not be an issue for most as we don't often (ever?) load our trucks. I have a Mitsubishi tilt cab box truck, roughly equivalent to an American 3500 series in capacity. They attack the loaded unloaded issue with a valve linked to the rear axle. It reduces pressure to the rear brakes with the springs are not compressed by a load. Disks up front will increase front axle braking capacity. But, so would bigger drums. At this point I think that will be my path. A little back story to explain that choice. Way back when, I had a '58 Ford PU with a 354 hemi and cast iron torqueflite. Heavy front, light back. Just a few days after completing the install I had to make a panic stop and experienced a similar problem as the OP. I had a 56 Chrysler as a donor, so I removed the 12" brakes from the front and adapted them to the Ford axle. Only needed to turn the inner bearing area down to fit the Chrysler bearing and use a spacer behind the backing plate. And redrill the backing plate to fit the spindle of course. Searched the local parts store's racks to brake hoses that fit and had great brakes again. Long story short, more powerful fronts, not less rear is my choice. The stock drums worked fine with 6.00x16 bias plies but just don't provide enough force to use the traction of modern radials IMNSHO.
  9. Question about tire size

    FYI, on the older tire sizes the first number is the width, 6.70" wide. section width, not tread. Or 170mm And, I think the aspect ratio is 100, meaning they are that same dimension from wheel tread. I have some 215r8516 tires on a Mitsubishi box truck which are really close to the 6.50x16 on my 56 Dodge PU.
  10. What was your first car? Slightly OT

    2 door sedan, bought in '58. Babbitt rod 216. Dad and I overhauled it, rings, removed rod shims, valve job, got my license in '59 and I drove it for a year or so. Then drowned it in a flooded creek. Replaced with a really nice 52 chev w/later inserted rod 235. On topic: at that time my Dad's car was a really slick 54 Dodge Coronet with the little hemi and powerflite that he bought in 55 or 6. It replaced a 49 Plymouth that was just the most indestructible vehicle ever.
  11. 1953 Plymouth floor shifter

    Well and hole cutting. If you have the very hard to find selector conversion floor shift, it is just a bolt on job. Once the hole in the floor is located and cut, it's just a matter of bolting it in place and adjusting. The adjustment may be an issue if you don't have the original paperwork, but you should be able to figure it out.
  12. 230 head thickness, stock

    I'm going to start on mu 230 this winter. I have a spare head from a previously rebuilt forklift engine. There have been past discussions here regarding the stock thickness of the head. But, I couldn't fine a definitive answer. I would like to be able to measure the head and determine if it has been milled in the past. Any info out there??? I posted this in another thread, but it was buried near the bottom.
  13. Milled head disaster!!!

    I'm going to start on mu 230 this winter. I have a spare head from a previously rebuilt forklift engine. There have been past discussions here regarding the stock thickness of the head. But, I couldn't fine a definitive answer. I would like to be able to measure the head and determine if it has been milled in the past. Any info out there???
  14. Rod bearing

    Probably been worked on before after it spun a rod bearing, or wore one out so bad that the rod was egg shaped. Was common (still is) to mill some material off the rod and/or cap, bolt together and resize on a rod hone. But no QC on the actual center line as a result of the rework.
  15. oil rings

    All the replies so far assume a 3 ring piston. Do yours have 3 or 4 ring grooves? Ic yours has 4, the cast one normally goes on the bottom groove.