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kencombs last won the day on May 21

kencombs had the most liked content!

About kencombs

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands
  • Birthday 02/11/1943

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  • Yahoo
  • Occupation

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  • Gender
  • Location
    claremore, ok
  • Interests
    old trucks obviously, any 30/40/50 vehicle. Woodworking, welding, painting etc.
  • My Project Cars
    56 1/2T


  • Location
    claremore ok
  • Interests
    old cars and woodworking

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  1. Have you verified the red statement with a compression check? If so and it's OK, read on. Rislone is a very thin oil additive. Not at all like the STPs of the world. Uncle of mine used to sell it, wholesale supplier. One of the demos was using it to lube a polished angled plate. Let a steel disk slide down and compare to stp, oil, stp/oil mix, Rislone/oil mix. Much 'slicker' than oil. I'd add a quart to the oil, pour a couple of ounces into each spark plug hole of a warm engine. Let it sit without the plugs for a couple of days. Crank it over to clear any that may be on top of the pistons, put in the plugs and drive it! Change oil soon to your favorite stuff. Since your breaking carbon loose, hopefully, you will need to change it often to prevent bearing damage. Or, do the same with ATF, my favorite penetrating fluid. Can't hurt, may help.
  2. Complexity depends on your definition of rebuild. Outside of machine work, it can be done by anyone with hand tools, some precision measurement tools and ability to follow the book procedures. However if crank machining or cylinder boring is required, or valve machine work, that is outside scope of most home mechanics. I'm in process of doing my 230, but it was bored not too many miles back and the cylinders are serviceable with a hone job. Crank also turned to .010/.010 and good. So, replacing parts is needed but no machine work. I have valve reconditioning tools and will replace the exh guides, grind the seats and valves. I will have a machine shop true the head, after I check chamber sizes and decide if I want more than a truing cut. In most cases, a machine shop is needed for specific work. I'd measure everything and see about getting that done and move it home for finishing.
  3. I like that! It's good looking in a hulky/Hummer kind of way. More tire and 4wd and it would look right at home cruising with the dually crowd.
  4. I had the D50 version of hte same! Red/Black. At about 50k the chain that drove the balance shaft jumped time. Replaced the hyd tensioner and reset. At about 125k the 2.6 dropped one of the little 'swirl' valves in the 3 valve head. It got a Mustang V6 and C4. Overall a great little truck anyway.
  5. Good point. Also I've heard of many newer replacement sets having the spring as a separate part in the package. This results in it being overlooked, as in not installed, or incorrectly installed. So, not enough pressure to reliably close the points. Might check that also.
  6. I would suspect either the coil or condenser. Those are the items most likely to be affected by heat. the backfire sure speaks to ignition rather than fuel, at least IME. The distributor cap could be at fault also, but those are not normally heat sensitive.
  7. I'd love to have one of those with the nice interior and GLH engine!
  8. Vinegar., plains ole white vinegar is my go rust remover. Soak. Scrub with hot water and brush immediately coat clean surface with brake fluid
  9. kencombs

    Rear shocks

    Your old shocks are 2" longer than the replacements, according to the specs I linked above. That shouldn't require any weight to depress the springs to mid-point of the shock travel. Unless your 49 takes different shocks than the 50, or the linked specs are wrong it seems you have the correct shock. What I meant by the quoted statement is this: Most people install shocks with the car raised off it's tires. When you remove the old shock the axle will droop further, as it's being held up by the shock. It will be necessary to raise the axle to install the new shock. That doesn't stress the shock, unless you do some movie car chase scene jumps!
  10. kencombs

    Rear shocks

    I can't find specs on a station wagon. But, here is a link to the specs on sedan shocks. Seems to match what you have. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=60159&cc=124607&jsn=381&_nck=ZExt1ysfqhqWnq%2BEvUNdS3Txyey60IDtnjPWF5UU9J0BWQv7pvqZbkEUk86%2BAYIh%2F8vGRbRbhjsCasCj0GDdkbyZaWRra1d2NhiFvl%2BLog%2FoM%2FBflmaQCQjslFHx8ekdlD7fdWyJip8UeVvd7KcZNFHazka%2FDzQz%2FEo0Zqxfyq%2FhVxm3u42gcZFTU8optuWJ64UA1tklmAuOIZsPwZgNWeW3ShwdzcK%2BZ8ZOX%2F9DPAQCBFFOKRV53hR5QrkAIWXiJpdqHYXsh6Z%2BFf6A4lhxDRa6DLF10zhoOuM13ou8IWx4CRejperQtw4rJftkCw0bGEn7WUwUebXr9CBxdsiL%2BmE%2FCdRpNysf Edit, here is a link for 50 suburban shock specs. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=60159&cc=124607&jsn=381&_nck=ZExt1ysfqhqWnq%2BEvUNdS3Txyey60IDtnjPWF5UU9J0BWQv7pvqZbkEUk86%2BAYIh%2F8vGRbRbhjsCasCj0GDdkbyZaWRra1d2NhiFvl%2BLog%2FoM%2FBflmaQCQjslFHx8ekdlD7fdWyJip8UeVvd7KcZNFHazka%2FDzQz%2FEo0Zqxfyq%2FhVxm3u42gcZFTU8optuWJ64UA1tklmAuOIZsPwZgNWeW3ShwdzcK%2BZ8ZOX%2F9DPAQCBFFOKRV53hR5QrkAIWXiJpdqHYXsh6Z%2BFf6A4lhxDRa6DLF10zhoOuM13ou8IWx4CRejperQtw4rJftkCw0bGEn7WUwUebXr9CBxdsiL%2BmE%2FCdRpNysf
  11. At times like that, I'm sure happy with my IR impact and 165psi shop air! If that's not available, I'd use a good s 3/4"drive six point socket, breaker bar and 4lb hammer. My 1/2" stuff flexes too much.
  12. The description sounds right, but 'timing cover bolts'? Looks like they need to proofread the listing.
  13. Heavy trucks, later AC equipped cars, industrial applications or heavier cars are potential sources for a better fan blade. some of the later A engines may have the same bolt pattern and be useable.
  14. The high idle speed probably accounts for the need to open the idle fuel needle. The butterfly is open enough that the 'normal' 2 turn or so open does not flow enough fuel. Easy enough to check. Lower the idle to 500-550 range and readjust the fuel mix. As far as lean causing overheating, it will, but only lean while running under load. Lean idle just doesn't sound as good but not enough fuel is being used to overheat. Over heating a low speeds is usually due to low airflow over the radiator. If you're not concerned with originality, a small electric fan in front of the radiator can help, or use a blade that moves more air, at the loss of some HP.
  15. The diff leak is probably the seal. While it is out would be a good time to determine the spline count and dimensions. Makes searching for a replacement easier. Sure hope one with a more common U-joint and readily available will interchange.
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