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kencombs last won the day on May 21

kencombs had the most liked content!

About kencombs

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands
  • Birthday 02/11/1943

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  • Yahoo
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  • Gender
  • Location
    claremore, ok
  • Interests
    old trucks obviously, any 30/40/50 vehicle. Woodworking, welding, painting etc.
  • My Project Cars
    56 1/2T


  • Location
    claremore ok
  • Interests
    old cars and woodworking

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  1. Looks like if functions similarly to what used to be called 'water pump pliers' or slip joint pliers. Jaws open and close near parallel whether set for narrow or wider opening.
  2. About the hole pattern: If you have a machine shop nearby with a CNC mill it is fairly simple to make new holes precisely. My grandson has done some for me. Unfortunately (for me) he now works in a shop that doesn't allow employees to do such things. The machines he's used all come with some standard software that includes controls for holes on a circle x degrees apart. The operator locates the wheel, inputs the circle radius and degrees of seperation. mount the tools. Hit start. quick and easy. So if you can find the right size/style wheel, a new set of holes is possible..
  3. since your dampener is rebuilt I would just ignore the old marks. It's possible the rebuilder failed to index the ring to the keyway and wrongly assumed the location it was in when received was correct. Find TDC and mark your own. Then measure the pulley circumference and divide by 360. that is the distance of 1 deg. Mark several degrees from your new TDC and get on with the assembly. A positive stop works best for the TDC location if the head is off. Otherwise use the plug over #6 in conjunction with a dial indicator to precisely locate TDC Truth be told, I almost never use a timing light on older systems anyway, just use a vacuum gauge and set it at the optimum for your particular engine.
  4. Yep, split rings are OK. IF, the ring hasn't been deformed by mistreatment in the past and the groove it seats into is rust-free. But, I still use utmost caution when airing, either on the truck with the ring side in or in a cage.
  5. That's true abut the ballast. But, one of the most common complaints back in the day was 'my car will start, but die when i release the starter'. Saw a lot of those in Dad's shop/salvage. LOTS of those things where changed due to failure. I drove Mopar V8s from the mid 60s and well into the 80s. I kept a spare in the car at all times.simpl Plenum mounting I mentioned earlier is a simple, reasonable precaution.
  6. Lots of cars/trucks have used a single speed motor with different speeds accomplished with a variable resistor. Others have used multiple resistors selected with the switch to offer different fixed speeds. The point of this is that they all did the same thing to keep the resistors from burning out. They placed them in the airflow of the heater, inside the duct downstream of the blower. You can copy that design to handle the heat of a resistor of your choice.
  7. CWO, That is exactly why my planned installation is an a833 with the original, (I think, 4.10) in my '56PU. And, with the 3.09 first, it will make starting a trailer much easier.
  8. The way I heard it: old fishermen never die, the just smell that way. Old truckers never die, etc.
  9. If you have the 260-7563 then this one: 260-14244 looks like a similar fit. But for some reason it is about 100 bucks more. the one you mentioned above is a single piston unit. Good luck on your hunt.
  10. That's why I suggested the math first. If the calculations show it's enough displacement, then it would be worth the work. It sounds like you just a little short of enough displacement, judging from the recorded symptoms. 1/8 more may do it. It still might be worth a try, IF the kit supplier will swap for you. not a lot of work to change if fittings and lines fit up ok. FWIW, I would never use a single piston master. Single res, serving two circuits is OK but not a single piston.
  11. That info makes it sound almost positively a volume issue. If the master was part of a kit, maybe the seller will swap for the 1 1/8" version. In any case, that would be my choice as it would require no line or fitting changes. But, a 1 1/4" would be a safer option. Maybe do some math and determine the volume needed to move the pistons in the calipers and rear brakes then compare that to that displaced by a 1 1/8 bore. If it is questionable, go for the bigger.
  12. I'd try reducing that to near 0 just to see what impact it has.If it is 1/8" at the piston, it may be too much. As long as the return port in the master is open when at rest it should be OK with reduced clearance. Depending on the linkage that may provide an inch . I see that it only has a 1.1 inch stroke, And assure that the linkage arrangement provides at least a 1.1 inch after the free play is taken up.
  13. I think I posted this before but: Have you confirmed the free play adjustment? Too much free play will result in lack of adequate stroke/fluid displacement also. and could cause the symptom you mentioned in another post, loss of pedal when either front or rear bleeder is . As a test, you could reduce free play to zero and see if it changes the symptoms. It seems odd that a company like Wilwood would offer a cylinder no bigger that 1 1/8" if larger is needed.
  14. I just took a look at eBay and found this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/DODGE-1951-1953-Pick-Up-Truck-Shop-Manual-CD-51-53/290463199700?hash=item43a0f4b1d4:g:440AAOSwkwVaU55J:sc:USPSFirstClass!74017!US!-1 Not good for my '56 but may work for you.
  15. Many years ago, (many, many years) I had a good friend that took all the tubes from my radio, broke the glass, removed the guts and soldered in the solid state components needed to replicate the functions of the tube. Sure wish he was still with us, d(U*d Cancer!
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