ntxcustoms

Ok scratching my head here. I have a mystery block i came across. Numbers ground off the pad so no luck there it's a 23" block mopar l-head. But...the stroke is a little under 3 7/8" all reference material i see doesn't list that measurement. It's like it's destroked which would mean no torque...which would suck. Bore is 40 over from 3 1/4". It's fully rebuilt so i would love to run it but what the hell is it? Thoughts?

I went with eci with no problems. Everything bolted in like it should. They use a 1" bore mustang master cylinder. I have their front disks and a ford 8.8 disk on the back. Their kit bolts in with no mods and looks cleaner as it removes the original master

Started machining my parts you adapt the 85-87 ford ranger transmission. If you're interested on how this turns out, I'll be posting more of the process on the 5 speed-not t5 thread.

I'm using my 41 plymouth bell. Regular 3 on the tree trans. So we started on the machining today. We bored out the bell housing to register the bearing retainer plate. We also moved the two top studs down and drilled and tapped for a piece of angle iron for the lower bolts. These stepsare the same as shown in this thread previously. However that is where I'm moving in a different direction. Robert used the original dodge bearing retainer by bolting it to the ranger's retainer thereby using the dodges throw out bearing. The Rangers front plate (bearing retainer) is pretty thin walled and i don't want to risk having it crack after many miles. So after table inspection and mock up we are ditching the throw out bearing and using the Rangers hydraulic bearing. I'll post pictures of that as we wrap this up.

I wouldn't think so. Wax seems to me that it would be to soft which would allow the side walls to collapse.

If trim is stainless and channel shaped you can melt lead into the channel. You now will have a solid piece that will bend without kinking. When done you melt it out.

If there are no obvious kinks in the trim, you can fill the piece with lead and bend back to the desired curve.

Thanks Bobb! I'm glad to hear everything has been holding up fine on your swap. I guess I'm on the hunt for an earlier bell.

Yeah those are toast. My parts car has a good set on them that I'm going to swap over.

41 plymouth bell

I'm just starting the process of adapting this trans to my 41 plymouth. Problem is my 3 speed input shaft is 9", so I don't think this bell will work. Any ideas? Find an earlier bell?

What bellhousing do i need? I have another parts car so I'm going to checkthat one out in the morning

Here's my input shaft on the three speed

This afternoon i took the floor board out and began to remove the 3 speed. When i pulled it i found that it has a 9" input shaft and not the 7.5" shaft that i thought the 3 speeds have. So what trans is this. Doesn't seem like a manual semi-auto but...

Well i really wanted to keep her stock but, after crusing for a bit it's apparent that for the amount of driving i will do with this car she needs some help. Really boils down to an overdrive. So I installed an 8.8 rear, which is really simple to do. Now i have posi, 3.73 gears, and disks on all shoes. After reading through threads on overdrives here on the forum i decided to go with the 85-87 5 speed ranger toyo kogyo gear box. I found one local in a salvage yard for 175 pulled. I also grabbed the driveshaft for 40 bucks, as it has the yoke and ford flange to fit the 8.8. I went straight to the car wash and degreased all the engine oil and grime off the trans. To my delight i found that its a rebuilt box. The rebuilders heat stamp and a number were on it. So i called them and found it was rebuilt just 10k miles before the truck went into the yard.

engine code is. +PII+II3I54+

Update, I reinstalled the gauge cluster and hooked everything back up to pos ground. I had to go get another 6v coil as the previous owner switched it to neg ground. I also replaced the regulator. She fired right up and all seems to work well electrically speaking. Now I'm on to the engine. It's starting to get a tapping noise up front which to me sounds like valve/lifter issue. Doesn't sound deep enough for crank/bearing problems. Also the front two spark plugs have oil seeping around them. So i plan a leak down and compression test next. Hoping I don't need a full rebuild...but you know...

I can see! This is on the dim setting without the cluster crimped tight so there is light bleeding around the edges. Going to try the gauges with the face white for a bit...may decide to paint it back to the stock brownish color.

Thanks 9ft I'm still getting used to the layout on here. So i bought some 55 bulbs from the parts store. I'll be ordering them online in the future as they were proud of them at 2.50 each. The cluster was still dim. So I took the housing apart, washed all the parts, and painted what was needed white. I went ahead and painted the face white as well to make the gauges pop. While i was in there i noticed the upper bulbs have metal cups that surround the bulbs and the lower to have a metal shield above them. I know mopar installed these to diffuse the light but I went ahead and removed them. Much brighter now!

Some interior pictures. I have the radio delete plate off so I can remove the gauges.

Ok, i removed the gauge cluster, bulb wires from the harness, and dimmer switch. Using jumper leads from a charged battery straight to the bulb harness and cluster on the bench it's still very dim. Doesn't change if i bypass the switch. The upper bulbs had some blue translucent plastic curled in the housing so i removed that with no difference. I'm thinking it's the wrong bulbs. Currently it's had GE 44 bulbs installed. Tomorrow I'm going to the parts store and try out some others. What bulbs are you guys using? Still 6v...

Someone down the line changed it to negative ground 6v. I'm going to change it back...my dash light switch is the dimmer type

My running lights are on. They are bright because i cleaned all connections, installed ac duct aluminum tape in the housings. and washed the lenses. I installed a column mount turn-signal switch with double filament bulbs.

Thanks for the replys. Going to keep my threads under the thread "saying hello again" as suggested by 9ft box