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ntxcustoms

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ntxcustoms last won the day on August 21

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About ntxcustoms

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    Member, been hanging around a while...

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  • My Project Cars
    40 Dodge sedan, 41 Plymouth coupe, 46 Dodge truck, 64 volvo wagon, 40 Ford pickup

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  • Location
    Dfw
  • Interests
    Building cars, metal fabrication

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  1. engine code is. +PII+II3I54+
  2. Update, I reinstalled the gauge cluster and hooked everything back up to pos ground. I had to go get another 6v coil as the previous owner switched it to neg ground. I also replaced the regulator. She fired right up and all seems to work well electrically speaking. Now I'm on to the engine. It's starting to get a tapping noise up front which to me sounds like valve/lifter issue. Doesn't sound deep enough for crank/bearing problems. Also the front two spark plugs have oil seeping around them. So i plan a leak down and compression test next. Hoping I don't need a full rebuild...but you know...
  3. I can see! This is on the dim setting without the cluster crimped tight so there is light bleeding around the edges. Going to try the gauges with the face white for a bit...may decide to paint it back to the stock brownish color.
  4. Thanks 9ft I'm still getting used to the layout on here. So i bought some 55 bulbs from the parts store. I'll be ordering them online in the future as they were proud of them at 2.50 each. The cluster was still dim. So I took the housing apart, washed all the parts, and painted what was needed white. I went ahead and painted the face white as well to make the gauges pop. While i was in there i noticed the upper bulbs have metal cups that surround the bulbs and the lower to have a metal shield above them. I know mopar installed these to diffuse the light but I went ahead and removed them. Much brighter now!
  5. Some interior pictures. I have the radio delete plate off so I can remove the gauges.
  6. Ok, i removed the gauge cluster, bulb wires from the harness, and dimmer switch. Using jumper leads from a charged battery straight to the bulb harness and cluster on the bench it's still very dim. Doesn't change if i bypass the switch. The upper bulbs had some blue translucent plastic curled in the housing so i removed that with no difference. I'm thinking it's the wrong bulbs. Currently it's had GE 44 bulbs installed. Tomorrow I'm going to the parts store and try out some others. What bulbs are you guys using? Still 6v...
  7. Someone down the line changed it to negative ground 6v. I'm going to change it back...my dash light switch is the dimmer type
  8. My running lights are on. They are bright because i cleaned all connections, installed ac duct aluminum tape in the housings. and washed the lenses. I installed a column mount turn-signal switch with double filament bulbs.
  9. Thanks for the replys. Going to keep my threads under the thread "saying hello again" as suggested by 9ft box
  10. I'll post some interior pics tomorrow. Tonight i started taking out the gauge cluster. The bulbs are so dim I can't see the gauges on a pitch black night. My high beam light barely glows. When powering up with a power probe it doesn't make a difference, but now come to think of it i only supplied power not ground. Anyway night bugs are chewing me up so I'll give a go tomorrow. Btw i have 6.0 volts at the dash light switch input. 5.9v output on high and 3.5v on low. So i don't think the switch is the problem. I'm thinking I'm going to supply more grounds and clean contacts this weekend.
  11. Picked up my 41 plymouth deluxe, installed a disk brake kit, relocated shocks, and wired in a turn signal light switch. That's when i noticed that... 1. The previous owner changed to negative ground 2. The ammmeter stays very close to 0 and only goes up a tiny bit under accleration. If lights come on or i discharge the battery some the ammeter doesn't go up to show a charge to the battery. Also the ammeter needle rocks a bunch at idle and levels at 0 under mild acceleration So i took the car out in the neighborhood and it died with a drained battery. I got a jump and made it back home. I polarized the generator at the regulator according to the writing on it. Momentarily jump arm to batt. Regulator says pos and negative ground. Volt meter says the regulator has good grounds. When running the batt terminal says 6.5volts under mild acceleration. I want to make sure that i don't get stuck out again so how do i test and where do i go for here? I have a plymouth manual but it mainly goes over bench testing and rebuilds, not driveway mechanics. Thanks in advance
  12. Thanks guys! Ignore the 31 license plate on there...just getting a feel for when my plate arrive
  13. It's been awhile maybe 5 since I've posted? Had a 39 dodge coupe and wound up selling it. Anyway life, the shop, other projects...and time flew by. So me loves me Mopars! I've gone through 5 (39-46) dodge trucks and 2 (1.5 ton) COEs in that time. I still have a half ton dodge truck I'm currently building. Anyway it's been too long since I've had a running car to scoot around in. I own a rod/resto shop but always focus on getting customer rides done. That changed this last weekend when I picked up this sweet 41 Plymouth deluxe coupe. It's to solid to go chopping and all that, but I am installing disk brakes and doing the ol' shock relocation thing. I've drooled over this coupe since the previous owner mentioned he may sell it. Half a year later and its mine!
  14. Just bought me a set of Moog-cc840 springs from O'reilly. They are progressive rate and ride well, many guys use them on their shoeboxes but they are supposed to be a sure fit on Dodges and Plymouths. I plan to install mine tomorrow. I moved my spring plates to the bottom of the arms and with these springs it should bring the nose down a bunch. I'll post a pic of how it sits when they're in. Also running a 318...Tyler
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