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Matt Wilson

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Matt Wilson last won the day on February 23

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About Matt Wilson

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    Junior Member, just joined the forum !

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  • Location
    Keller, TX
  • My Project Cars
    1949 Dodge Power Wagon

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  • Location
    Texas
  • Interests
    Dodge Power Wagon

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  1. I'll answer it a third time. On my '49 Power Wagon, these bolts were used for attaching the horn.
  2. Great stuff! I hope I'll still be stepping on the starter rod of my '49 Power Wagon when I'm that age (and then the engine coming to life and me driving off in it).
  3. Over on one of the Power Wagon sites, www.dodgepowerwagon.com, one of the guys was having a problem that turned out to be caused by the fuel line in the tank sucking up chunks of sealant that were sitting in the tank. These chunks would find their way to the tube and block the opening of the tube. Then after letting the truck sit for a while (not running), he could start the engine again, presumably because the sealant had fallen back to the bottom of the tank and unblocked the tube opening. It's conceivable that something like this is going on with yours. The others have offered good suggestions, but I figured I would mention this one as well.
  4. Good news! Who did you end up using to perform the rebuild? Just curious.
  5. All good replies. The only thing I still wonder about is how to deal with the ridge at the top. The last time I removed the ridges from the tops of the cylinders, I thought I was being very careful not to remove more than necessary to get the pistons out, but my machinist said I removed a bit too much - enough that he had to bore the cylinders out by two oversizes instead of just one oversize (He had to go to 0.030" I stead of 0.020"). I'm thinking if you don't remove enough of the ridge, you can beat the piston out of the engine (something my machinist said he recommends), but do you run the risk of the new top ring hitting the remainimg ridge? If you remove too much of the ridge, is there any issue with that, such as the top ring comtactimg the "de-ridged" area? Maybe I'm over thinking this.
  6. Hey Joe, congratulations on the addition of your new mechanical supervisor!
  7. I also enjoyed reading this for the first time this evening. Looking forward to updates, although I realize they may still be a ways off.
  8. You might consider Permatex high-temperature thread sealant 59214P. It's advertised as being good for head bolts into through holes.
  9. Can anyone tell me the thickness of the two center main bearing caps (#2 and #3)? I'm talking about the thickness in the front-to-back direction. For example, the front cap (#1 cap) is approximately 1.288" thick, as shown in the attached photo. I need the corresponding dimension for #2 and #3. I don't have my block or caps #2 and #3 with me at the moment, or I would measure it myself. I'm hoping someone has a 25" engine that is accessible for such measurements at the moment. Thanks!
  10. Wow, this is quite the acquisition. Congrats!!
  11. If you have surgery, I hope it goes well, with a full and speedy recovery. As for the rod and piston idea, I'm sure you can make something work. I suspect it would cost a lot, but you never know. You might be able to come up with something reasonably priced. I seem to recall Tim Kingsbury mentioning that he has had aftermarket rods made, but they were pricey (in the thousands of dollars, I believe). The rods and bolts for these engines are hard to find and often expensive when you do. There is a potential clearance issue with the lower end of the block, where the oil pan attaches, but I don't think that's where you're talking about. The early 25" blocks have to be modified in this area, but the later ones were cast with the necessary clearance. I thought the clearance concern for the rod bolt heads was with the camshaft, but I could be wrong. You seem to be thinking it is with the block casting. Anyway, good luck with it all.
  12. By the time you get this done, it will probably be too late for me to take advantage, but I will be interested to know if you succeed. A couple of years ago, I sent ARP a 265 bolt and asked them about making up bolts. They are very specialized, and ARP said they had never made any bolts for the 265, and had no bolts that could easily be adapted. I asked them for a ballpark cost to make such bolts, and they said it would be at least a few thousand dollars, maybe more. At that point, I stopped my query. After some research and queries on this forum and others, I found that most people who are not building race or hot rod engines just re-use the stock bolts, as long as they don't look damaged. I even called George Asche, who has raced many of these engines for decades, and he said he re-uses his stock 265 bolts and has never had a failure, even with 5500-rpm (or more) operations. So I reassured myself with that, and decided I'd re-use the stock bolts. If you have better news than that, I'd really be interested to hear about it. I still haven't reassembled my engine, so it's not too late at this point, but if it's going to be another six months before bolts are ready, or if they are going to be $1000 per set of 12, then it probably won't be in the cards for me. If they do end up making some bolts, one thing to consider is whether they will be able to achieve the proper curvature of the underside of the bolt head, so that it will fit correctly into the curved, recessed socket of the rod. Maybe it's not a big deal to get this feature correct, but it's something that had crossed my mind.
  13. I pressed a worm gear off a steering shaft and replaced it just using a hydraulic press. I didn't heat it or cool the shaft or anything like that. This was on my '49 Dodge Power Wagon. The worm has an integral key, and shaft has a machined key way. The first time I tried it, I had the key slightly misaligned from the key way, meaning it was rotated a few degrees and it created a sliver of a new key way on the shaft, resulting in the overall width of the key way being wider than it should be. I didn't care much for that, so I got another shaft I had in my stock and tried it again....pressed the worm off the not-quite-right shaft and onto the other shaft. This time, I was very careful and got it right. The gear on mine looks just like the gear in your photos, so yours may respond similarly. Not sure if you have access to a press or not. Maybe a gear or pulley puller could be made to work. I would suggest not using the tapered piece of the puller inside the shaft, as that will probably tend to expand it and make it harder to get free of the gear.
  14. If you have a new cam, I've always read that you should run the engine at about 2000 rpm for 20 minutes when the engine is first started. After that, I agree with varying the rpm and power demand as you drive. I wouldn't rev it up too much, but I would think 2500 rpm would be a good limit for the first couple hundred miles, then gradually increase that over the next few hundred miles. About 16 - 17 years ago, I spoke to someone at a piston ring manufacturer (can't remember which company) and he said that once I've stepped on the gas pedal at near-full throttle under load (not high rpm) about 5 or 6 times, the rings are basically broken in. I got the impression this was just for a few or a couple of seconds at a time. These are just my own take on things based on what I've read and what I've done, although my experience is much more limited than that of others on this forum.
  15. Ditto what these guys said. I've pulled a couple of flathead sixes and did so by running the head bolts through chain links with several large fender washers between the bolt head and the chain. The longer the length of chain between the two head bolts, the less stress on the engine block casting because there is less sideways load pulling on it. I agree with using two head bolts placed at diagonally opposite locations of the engine (i.e., left-front and right-rear or vice-versa). Good luck!
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