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40desoto

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About 40desoto

  • Rank
    Junior Member, just joined the forum !

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    West Covina, CA
  • Interests
    Cars, baseball, drums, education
  • My Project Cars
    1940 Desoto Coupe<br /><br /><br /><br />
    1964 Cadillac

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    From Los angeles California. Gain interested in working on cars in 1991 while in the military.
  • Occupation
    College administrator

Converted

  • Location
    West Covina,CA
  • Interests
    Cars, Drums, Education

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  1. Thank you Ken! Great advise. I will be renting a pressure tester and doing the pressure test along with checking that the water pump is circulating water. I have a feeling its not because the water temperature varies drastically around the block and radiator.
  2. Thank you Los Control. Here's my update. I flushed out the water from the radiator and block. filled with water and coolant. Filled radiator all the way to the top. ran the car and about 13 minutes in the car guage spiked to 210. At about 180 I noticed a bit of coolant trickling out of the overflow tube on radiator. when it got to 210 it was flowing out pretty fast. When it hot to 190 I turned on the electric fan and the temp kept rising and did not stop at 210, when it got to 215 I just the motor off. When I shut the motor off the coolant continued to gush out pretty consistently for another minute or so. Keep in mind that I used a non-pressurized cap. Until I get the kit to measure any exhaust leaks in the car, Im going to concentrate an another part of the car to get mind off of it for a bit and stay sane. Thanks to everyone for all the advise and insight.
  3. I used two different infrared thermometers (to check accuracy) and both read 175-180 at the rear of the head when guage read 178ish at that point, the thermostat housing read 165 and the top of the radiator read 148. Something just doesn’t seam right. I will continue to troubleshoot. not sure if its relevant but I did notice even at the first time filling with water after the. Rebuilt when i drained the wAter looked very dirty. Brownish/red rust color like. how detailed does a machine shop go in flushing out the water passages when cleaning an engine block before machining?
  4. Thank you LosControl. My engine is a fresh rebuilt and a new water distribution tube installed. Ive had had a similar issue on an older motor I had overheating issues as well.
  5. So heres my latest. Installed a non pressurized cap on my aluminum radiator and filled radiator with water leaving about 1 inch space on top for water expansion. once the temperature at guage reached 175 water started flowing out if the radiator relief tube. It reached 210 and water started pouring out of the tube consistently. When the temp reached 180 I turned on a household fan that I had mounted to the front of the radiator and it didnt change the temperature at all. on the positive side, there are no more water leaks on the head studs. I plan on flushing the system and refilling with distilled water and testing again. hoping the distilled water and coolant will make a difference.
  6. Don is that small return tube on top of the radiator critical on a non-pressurized system hope I dont regret purchasing an aluminum radiator instead of rebuilding my original
  7. Thanks Adams, I was thinking that in the engine bay that it would somewhat better control the air flow through the radiator. Since the car did not come with a fan shroud I didn't think it would make that much of a difference outside or inside the engine compartment. I guess every lil bit can make a difference.
  8. I am running a 3 row aluminum Champion radiator that came with the 9 lb cap. I do have the original non pressurized cap that I can use. I understand that the original system was non-pressurized. Thanks for everyones response. ill be sealing the remaining head studs. Flush the system, refill will coolant, move the radiator closer to the fan blades and use a commercial fan in front if radiator to see if it maintains the temperature down. Keep in mind that this is a freshly rebuilt engine with a new radiator. I not quite following on how the engine temperature would vary whether its in the car or on a stand with everything connected? Im hoping to run the car on idle without an wxternal electric fan and keep under 200.
  9. 😳🤑 I think ill just use two interlocking 1/2 nuts to install and remove. thank you
  10. What do you guys consider water temperature too hot on these flathead six engines? I hear many opinions ranging from 190 to 220. Ive never felt comfortable seeing my guage on any car stay too long over 205. Here my situation - I'm running my engine on a stand with a new three core aluminum radiator and just water. Doing so because Im taking care of the head stud leaks before I add coolant to it. The engine reaches about 210 within 10-12 minutes of starting. Also, one think I noticed is that the water seems to continiously flow throw the thermostat housing as if its stuck open. The cap opens at about 185 degrees and gushes water out to the reservoir (9 lb cap). Something just doesn't seem right. Once I get the leaks fixed I plan on using coolant, moving the radiator closer to the fan in hopes that the motor maintains a good temperature at idle.
  11. What size/range is that stud removal tool?
  12. Thank you for all the advice James. I think I will order a new set of studs from ARP and install. Its best to be safe than sorry.
  13. I thought I'd share the latest and my experiences and what I've learned. Along the way. The rebuild shop dropped off the engine to me and stated that they did not have to proper stand to put the engine on the dyno as they initially mentioned they would be willing to do for an extra charge. The shop installed everything on the engine- Distributor, plugs, wires, water pump, head, flywheel, starter, triple intake, exhaust, etc.. When I proceeded to break in the motor as soon as I put water some head studs, one exhaust bolt, the water pump and one freeze plug leaked water. This is without staring the motor. When I communicated with the shop they stated that this was common and that they will self seal over time. I removed and reinstalled the water pump using permatex pft sealant on the threads and also removed and used permatex on the leaking head studs. Added water again and no leaks. When attempting to start the engine it would not fire up due to the timing issue. The distributor was installed 180 degrees off. I adjusted it it and to avoid having to reindex the oil pump I extended the adjusting gap on the distributor cap to be able to do further timing adjustment. While doing so my neighbor that was assisting me to find TDC dropped a 6 inch wire down the 6th cylinder chamber :-O.. Lucky I had an extra head new headgasket laying around. We were finally able to minimize the water leak and get the the motor to start and stay on for the 20 minute break in period without overheating. All other head studs started leaking. I eventually removed all studs and resealed them with permatex PFT. Man, so far this stuff works great. I have since installed an electrical pump (rather not rant about what happen with the mechanical pump), a Holley 2-4.5 psi pressure regulator, a triple carb fuel block and plumbed brass/nickle hard fuel lines to the carburetors. The car starts fine and stays idle, timing issue solved but I do noticed that the carburetor gaskets seem to slightly leaking fuel. My neighbor which is not a big fan of Carter B&B's says that this is why he doesnt like these carbs and since they are old technology will always leak like that and will be near impossible to tune and adjust due to tolerences on the mechanisms and thus causing vacuum leaks...?? I'll send an email out to Tim Kingsbury and see what he recommends regarding the fuel leak. Attaching a couple of videos and pictures of the project. Once again, thanks to all those that have provided advice and input.
  14. Since Im using the Stovebolt mini-HEI I had to modify the clamp in order for there to be more adjustment on the distributor. I did this in order to avoid having to re-index the oil pump.
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