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Jeff Balazs

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Everything posted by Jeff Balazs

  1. I would start with the parts diagram arrangement. God only knows what previous owners may have done over the years. Glad the Roberts seals worked out for you. Jeff
  2. My 52 B-3-C has a fluid drive 4 speed and I use it here in Southern California as my daily driver. They are great trucks and honestly the FD is a nice feature to have in heavy traffic. Your Truck o Matic is a fairly rare option and a great conversation piece. With a good running flathead I would not be afraid of using it. I have put around 20,000 miles on my FD since putting it back on the road and I am glad I left it as it was built. Dodge did a good job on these trucks. If you don't mess about with them too much the driving experience is a lot of fun. Basically they are old work trucks...... and very functional time machines . Enjoy Jeff
  3. I use NGK Br6s in my 230 and they seem to run cleaner than some of these other plugs. Motorcycle shops in the UK should have them. Jeff
  4. Welcome to the group. Roberts Motor Parts is a good source. They helped me quite a bit with the things I needed. Jeff
  5. Well about a month ago they had a Porsche Cayenne in .......guess what the battery and black boxes are in a box under the seat. It is a low spot like a sump. Wanna guess where anything spilled in the car winds up? Not sure what happened but the owner brought it in complaining about an odor......... it was a stinking mess down there. Never did hear what the cost was on the ruined electronics.....but it was not cheap. The "engineers" that designed this accident waiting happen should be ashamed of themselves.
  6. Hey John; It is wild how a lot of the new stuff is built. Too much plastic and way too dependent on electronics. Most of the higher end stuff really only has a short usable life. My buddy had a customer bring in a big BMW the other day that he picked up for $1500. It looked fairly new but was 8 years old. Oil leaks everywhere and the braking system needed $3500 worth of parts and labor to get it working. The fuel injection system was a real mess. By the time the fellow put new tires on it he had about $12,000 into it and it still needs a lot of attention. I think I will stick with my old truck. Jeff
  7. Good point Ed. My truck is still 6V positive ground. In retrospect I wish I would have converted mine to 12V during the build. Would have been less expensive and easier to set up and maintain. There is nothing really wrong with 6V but I have a lot of money in 6 volt specific components like the alternator, ignitions system, 6v to 12v power converters and batteries. Oh well.... Jeff
  8. I can't comment on those specific points. I can only tell you that most of the stuff like this that is available through retailers is made in China. Or somewhere overseas. I drive my truck daily and have for the last 4 years. It always starts right up. Besides easy starting the inside of the distributor cap and the rotor stays nice and clean. No points system will stay nice like this does. We are talking about zero maintenance with this system...... The best way to order the module is to call them directly and give them the distributor model # and the voltage and polarity you want to use. If you go this route you should buy their matched coil and follow the instructions carefully. I am aware that there are people who have had problems with these modules. I have not. I do know that this system should never be left in the on position for extended periods when the engine is not running.......and that not following the installation instructions to the letter can cause failure. I believe that these two items are probably the cause of the lions share of any module failures. Again mine has worked flawlessly. Also if it matters to you it looks entirely stock from the outside. Jeff
  9. Quite a lot of the points and condensers being sold these days are rubbish. In other words many just are not up to the job. Maybe you could find some good new old stock ones from when this stuff was made here? Otherwise you take your chances with the made in China items. I fussed around with 3 different sets of points from 3 different suppliers early on with my truck. I know it shouldn't be like that....simple stuff really ....but these days it often is. I got tired of it and put a Pertronix module and matching coil in. Never had a problem with this set up. Pretty much fit and forget. Jeff
  10. Nick; Once you have it sorted out I highly recommend using an additive in your fuel. The fuel these days can cause issues. I have found a few ounces of MMO in every other tank full works very well. Jeff
  11. Thanks Mark; I had done a search for this....and it didn't come up. Maybe I will just send a couple to you for rebuild when I get back. We are headed to Flagstaff on Thursday to visit our daughter. You know stuff like these cable actuated controls are part of the real charm these trucks hold over me. Screw all the "new" stuff I love the roll up windows....the hand actuated cowl vent....and the cable actuators. It is all just perfect. I have a buddy who has a automotive repair shop across from mine. OMG almost all of the late model stuff they work on is just silly. Plastic engine parts ? who thought up the plastic valve covers on BMW's & Audis? Guess the factory doesn't understand what happens to plastic that is subjected to heat? Many of the newer vehicles have 20 or more specially shaped hoses in the cooling systems. They had a Toyota van in there the other day......had to remove literally half of the interior including the dash and steering column to get at some these hoses. Great thinking there. And then there was a Honda van that had more wiring, switches and motors in one of the rear doors than my entire truck. What a bunch of hooey. I tell you what all the "new" stuff makes are old trucks look real good. Just spending a bit of time in Carl's shop has given me a deeper appreciation for the old ways. I will be driving my old truck long after most of this rubbish ends up in the recycling bin. Jeff
  12. Sound like you need to rebuild the accelerator pump......and make sure all the internal passages are clean. That is where I would begin at any rate. Jeff
  13. I knew it had come up....just couldn't for the life of me remember who. Care to share what kind of wire you use? I just want to fix a couple and put them back into my spares. Jeff
  14. Hey All; Anyone come up with a decent way to replace a broken inner cable on our control cables. Had one let go the other day..... fortunately I had a spare. I have a couple that have broken inner "wires" and would like to repair them for my spares. Not sure what material to use? Was hoping maybe someone here already has it figured out? Thanks, Jeff
  15. I got mine from Roberts and they fit pretty darn well. Seems to me I read at the time that the Steele ones were not a great fit. Jeff
  16. Jocko; I know I used Permatex........think it was brown. It has worked just fine on my truck. As far as pressure testing goes I borrowed a pressure tester from a mechanic buddy of mine and pumped it up to 12#. As I recall it held for 2 or 3 hours.....and I figured that was good enough. I did this with a freshly re-cored radiator and all new hoses, etc. It probably doesn't need to be tested that high.....I would think any leaks like you have had would show at 5#or 6#. Hth, Jeff
  17. Mark; I would think whoever repaired would have pressure tested the repair. Should have? When I had my original radiator re-cored the fellow that owned the shop said it was tested at 12# and that I could run it with a 12# cap if I wanted. After I put it all back together I borrowed a tester and pumped it up to to 12# for an hour and it held. If you have a original honeycomb core then I would not go that high. I would think 4# or so would be fine. Fwiw I don't think I would be comfortable using it if it won't hold a bit of pressure......even if it is at zero most of the time. Jeff
  18. If you have the stock fuel pump then you need a heat shield. You can either make one or buy one. They are essential when using these modern fuels. It is hot here in Socal. I ended up removing the stock pump and running a full time electric pump. I also made a shield that fits between the carby and the manifolds. Pretty much solved fuel issues I was having. With these newer fuel formulas and the way the manifolds are on these engines you may have to deviate a bit from the stock installation to solve this. Jeff
  19. It should work Mark; I pressure tested mine and ran a 4# cap for a while. Without some pressure on the system Bars leak has little chance of sealing anything. Jeff
  20. Mark; Think about this for a moment. The system needs to be pressurized for any of these products to work well. They need to flow into the crack in order to seal it. Doesn't need to 15#....4# would make it work. But in a 0 psi system there isn't much chance it is going to be forced through the crack. Jeff
  21. Pretty sure Bars just works on small leaks in radiators. There is "better" stuff that is supposed to work well in fine cracks in steel and cast iron. It is a liquid that has some sort of ultrafine ceramic particles in it along with a heat activated bonding agent. Be damned if I can remember the name of it. Next time I see one of my mechanic buddies I will ask him. I know that he has had some positive results using it. Jeff
  22. If it were my truck I think I would try a sealer mixed in the coolant first. Run it for a while and monitor it closely. A crack like this is likely to stop up with the sealer. The sealer will not work if the leak is stopped by external epoxy. The block sealer needs to flow into the crack when the engine is up to temperature in order to form a bond. Once this has taken place then you can do a external cosmetic repair. Jeff
  23. I think there is a likelihood it will leak if it is not at least functionally repaired. You can get a FD type repair kit from Mikes that has a new plunger assembly. Jeff
  24. Jocko; When the Felpro gasket on my truck let go I can assure you that I had white smoke in the exhaust and coolant in my oil. I was fortunate that it happened as I was leaving my house one morning. I just pulled it into the garage and drained everything immediately. I never bothered with trying to trace the path the coolant took to get into the oil. Instead I focused on the cause of the failure and a plan on preventing it from happening again. Because this truck is my primary transportation I keep a fairly comprehensive collection of spares. Including a complete new set of engine gaskets by Best. After removing the head I took it and the gasket to some mechanic and machinist buddies of mine where they showed me where and why it had failed. The consensus conclusion was an inferior gasket. I was back on the road later that day and have not had any further problems with it. That was a couple of years ago. Btw I took the precaution of running fresh oil in it for around an hour. Then I did another full oil change to be certain that there was no more coolant in the oil. Because of the design of this engine there are a few spots on the head gasket that have a very narrow sealing surface. My guess is that these areas are where 95% of all the L6 head gasket failures occur. Hth, Jeff
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