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Jeff Balazs

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Everything posted by Jeff Balazs

  1. Scare of my life.

    Before I put my truck back on the road I spent quite a bit of time adjusting the front to rear balance of my disc brakes. I did this on dry and wet pavement and tried to get fairly accurate measurements. To begin with my rear discs actually locked up before the fronts. With the Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve I have it is possible to fine tune this. Makes a huge difference in how quickly I can stop the truck.....and how straight and predictable the stop actually is. I think a lot of modern vehicles while good still have a tendency to lock up the fronts first. I really don't likes this bias and feel like there is no point in having 4 wheel discs set up this way. I have the bias set so I can feel the rears working almost as much as the fronts and honestly it is almost impossible to lock them up. But man does it slow to a stop quickly. Jeff
  2. Scare of my life.

    Fiddy; I drive my 52 3/4 ton daily in relatively heavy and fast moving traffic here in SoCal. As you are already aware these trucks are from a completely different era of traffic and road conditions. I knew as I began my build of this truck that there were some serious upgrades required to handle the traffic conditions it now faced. Good reliable and predictable braking was at the very top of the list. Some people will tell you that the original brakes are more than adequate. I don't agree. The folks you share the road with these days have no idea and don't care if your pride and joy can stop as quickly as their new whatsit can. I get constant reminders of this almost daily. I went to the extra effort of putting 4 wheel disc brakes in my truck and I am very glad I did. I have had to use them to their full capability more than once. As a bare minimum I would suggest putting discs on the front of any of these trucks that anyone intends to use in regular traffic. It isn't that expensive or complicated. And done carefully it may just save your day...... Jeff
  3. Scare of my life.

    Could be an adjustment is required? Seems to me that a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve could be piped in. I have one on my truck but then I also have 4 wheel disc brakes. Hth; Jeff
  4. Tie Down Hooks - Thoughts?

    Yep......it is not anyone is going to notice a few more chingas. I want to know if it doubles as your camper shell?
  5. Water distribution tube

    Y'all are too wimpy. You havent lived until you have been through a real stinker of a WDT. Here is what came out of mine Jeff
  6. Tie Down Hooks - Thoughts?

    Merle; You are exactly correct. Might not work as well on the smaller beds but on our larger 3/4 ton or even the 1 ton beds it really does the job. Best part it is easily put back to original. I find I carry some sort of load pretty much weekly and so far it has handled everything I have thrown at it. These old trucks seem to be happiest when they are put to work. Jeff
  7. Tie Down Hooks - Thoughts?

    Hi Ed; Yes they are not in the way at all. Of course this is the wide bed...... but that is a 48" wide piece of plywood in the photos. I haul stuff all the time and this set up works well. To me the hooks on the outside of the bed that most folks seem to have are really only useful for tying down a tarp over a tall load. Like hay or boxes. Several times I have had well over a thousand pounds of hardwood lumber or the doors I make in the truck. With ratchet straps nothing ever moves around. Jeff
  8. Tie Down Hooks - Thoughts?

    Here are a couple of photos of the tie down Eye-bolts I have been using in my truck. These are good for heavy loads down in the bed and are actually through bolted into the frame. Keeps stuff from shifting around during transit and wont bend the bed sides. There are 4 of these on each side of my 3/4 ton truck bed. Hth., Jeff
  9. Tie Down Hooks - Thoughts?

    I replaced the 8 main anchoring bolts in the bed of my truck with large eye-bolts and this has worked out well for me. Have had well over 1000# tied down several times without the load shifting. Jeff
  10. A 833 Trans Transplant Thread

    That is one way to deal with part of the situation, but only part of it. I will tell you right now the 3.55 works just fine at speeds above 50 mph. Level or hills. What would really enhance my truck and I suspect many others is to have a gear between the current 3rd and 4th. And it seems to me that there is at least one version of the A833 that is pretty much spot on this spread. Just don't have the info in front of me. As I recall it was an early variant. Jeff
  11. A 833 Trans Transplant Thread

    Exactly.....perhaps I didn't do a good job explaining the issue. My issue is between the current 3rd and 4th gear ratios. And it is primarily an issue on hills and at slower speeds. The current 1st gear ratio is so low that I never use it. So in effect the gear box I have is used as a 3 speed in normal driving. 2 to 3 to 4. Jeff
  12. A 833 Trans Transplant Thread

    Just so it is clear I determined quite a while back that doing a T5 swap is not something I am at all interested in. I would have some interest in learning about what is involved with a non OD A833 swap. Honestly the fact I have a fluid drive 4 speed has little or nothing to do with the equation when it comes to optimum ratio selection. I typically use this as you would a non FD 4 speed and in that mode it is plenty quick off the line. Where it could be improved upon would be having two closely spread gears (2/3) instead of the third gear ratio it currently has. In other words there is too big of a jump in between the current 3rd and 4th gear ratios. I have seen some data on non OD versions of these A833 transmissions that looked pretty good in this respect but I have never actually come across the actual item. Or heard of anyone using this particular model tranny in a truck. Jeff
  13. A 833 Trans Transplant Thread

    Agreed. After more than 2 years of daily use I am convinced that a close ratio 4 speed w/o overdrive would make for a much better set up. The 3.55 rear end I put in my truck lets me cruise at 65-70 just fine. I would much rather have a closer spread of 4 instead of the spread between 2nd and 4th I currently have with my 4 speed FD tranny. Add in the full synchros these trannys have and that would be the perfect combination for my truck. Jeff
  14. locking the hood on a b3b

    Paul; It ain't nuttin to do with dating. Peaky Blinders is a Netflix show about a particularly nasty post WW1 mob that runs Birmingham England after the war. They know no limits........ if you catch my drift. If you have trouble sleeping this is definitely not the show for you. Jeff
  15. locking the hood on a b3b

    I gave this topic a fair amount of thought a while back when I was building my truck. All you really need to do is use an old choke or throttle cable and some hardware to interfere with the operation of the hood latch on both sides. Just never got around to it. Maybe a good winter project. My anti-theft system consists now of an un-marked fuel pump switch and a battery selector switch with a removable key. I totally get where you are at on this. If I were to ever catch someone messing with my truck I would go all Peaky Blinders on them. Jeff
  16. low oil pressure

    I doubt very much that the relief spring is the problem. If it were broken a problem would be present all the time. Could be an oil issue.....wrong viscosity, dilution etc...or it is caused by worn out main bearings and / or oil pump. Need more info. Jeff
  17. Tim; I don't think it has anything to do with the location of the fuel line. I am pretty certain that those springs are there to keep torsional twist in the frame from deforming the tank. If you look at it from this point it wouldn't really matter which end of the tank the springs were on. These frames actually "twist" a fair amount as they go down the road. Jeff
  18. Fire Extinguisher Recommendation

    I have a Maxout dry chem unit mounted in my cab ala Merle. This is a similar unit to what most off road racers carry. Very effective. If you stop and think about it the air cleaner is the first line of defence against engine wear. Most of the abrasives that enter an engine come in through the intake. Stopping them from ever getting into the internals of you engine is about the best thing you can do. Here in SoCal plenty of studies have been conducted on particulate matter along our roads and freeways. It is very bad and is compounded by the dry conditions so it stays airborne a lot longer than you would think. I suppose an oil bath probably works best at high rpms when the velocity of the airflow is strongest. But I rather doubt it's effectiveness at idle. I have a K&N with a Uni oiled foam sleeve over it hidden inside a modified oil bath housing. I know it work very well. I wash the foam element about every 6 or 8 weeks and the stuff in the bottom of the pan is always gritty. I feel fairly confident that some of this stuff would make it through a plain oil bath. Jeff
  19. 1953 Dodge 'coupe' truck project

    He probably went walkabout.........or is on a fair dinkum holiday.
  20. Southern AZ B2B Build Thread

    Real nice job on this truck. Love to see another one back on the road! Jeff
  21. IFS question

    Radials and an inexpensive set of gas shocks from Napa are quite effective on these trucks. Take the time to check the kingpins and make sure to inspect and grease things up. These trucks are capable of a being very good commuters for their age. Just takes some attention to details. Jeff
  22. Gas gauge question

    Hi Guy's; I know this has been covered but I am stumped. I can't seem to get a reading of any sort on my gas gauge. I have power at the sending unit and added a ground per Merles idea when I installed the tank and new Roberts sending unit. Tried a jumper across the terminals and no joy at the gauge. I get a reading of 92ohms from the terminal to ground. What should I be looking at next? Thanks, Jeff
  23. New 1950 dodge Truck to me

    You'll shoot your windshield out!........
  24. New 1950 dodge Truck to me

    These pivot points need to be well lubricated in order for the wipers to work well. I used Mobil 1 synthetic wheel bearing grease on all the pivot points and it has worked quite well. Stays in place too. I also packed my steering gearbox with the same stuff. Doesn't leak either. Hth. Jeff
  25. Oil pressure relief valve

    I have had luck braking stuff like this loose using repeated cycles of penetrating oil and heat. Try soaking with your favorite penetrating oil then applying heat to the surrounding area. Doesn't have to be a torch....even a heat gun would get the surrounding metal hot enough. Allow it to cool and soak again. Repeat the process a few times then see if it will move. Usually 3 or 4 cycles of this is enough. Hth, Jeff
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