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Jeff Balazs

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Everything posted by Jeff Balazs

  1. Mark; Do you have one of the old Accuspray guns with the composite grip that can be split apart ? Jeff
  2. Hi Stumpy; :D:D That's perfect! I love to see these trucks used for the work they were meant for. Do you have a sawmill? Please post more pictures. Never mind Hank.......he should have got an Escalade or maybe a Navigator. Jeff
  3. Mark; It is not a good idea. No matter how much you clean it. I have had several friends try this with disastrous effects. And once you run solvent based through it that gun is a solvent gun from then on. One of my buddies fought with this for quite a time and had to deal with more than one project that he had finish failure on. I don't know if you have had your gun completely apart but there are passages inside the handle which will get a build up over time. If you only spray water base this has little or no ill effects.....but the minute solvent hits it....the problem starts. Jeff
  4. Hi Dave; Basics are a good place to start. I am not really certain if using a turbine gun is even a viable option? The only one I have seen that might work is a gravity feed Fuji....and it has a fairly small cup. The reviews said it was a great touch up gun but no one had painted an entire car with it. As far as air goes my main air supply is a 2 cylinder oil type compressor rated at 6.5 CFM/ 120#. It has a 60 gal tank. I have another similar portable with a 12 gal tank that can be hooked up to the shop manifold. It is rated at 6 CFM @ 100#. I don't know if this enough air? If I understand your comment It sounds like I would need 3 gal of paint. Would I need a similar amount of primer as well? Thanks, Jeff
  5. Hi Dave; I don't really have any equipment suitable for mixing or applying automotive paints. The stuff I have is used with water base products and once contaminated with oil base of any type is pretty much useless to me. The products I use are shot straight from the container so I don't even have to test viscosity or thin it....ever. I said before I wish they made automotive finish.....'cause if they did this truck would be a lot farther along. Jeff
  6. Mark; Yes General Finishes is what we all use here. Used to be Enduro. In our climate it is all just strain and shoot. No fussing about. When the poly came out years ago it was the best. General has made several improvements since they bought out Enduro. These days I use the Exterior 450 and the pre-cat most often. The spray on stains are great too. I wish they made an automotive finish. The old Accuspray equip. is really great. As close to flawless as it gets. My old cup gun is at least 10 years old and still works perfect every time. Now that 3M took them over....price is higher and they have made some questionable design changes. Fuji has a nice gravity feed turbine gun that would probably do the job.....but by the time you buy all the tips etc.... around $400. I suppose this would be OK if I sprayed oil based products all the time. Dave Can you recommend some gun brands ? Also what sort of mixing etc.. kit will I need as a minimum? Thanks, Jeff
  7. Thanks for all the great input. I have the hammers and dollies.....but will need some of those fancy sanding blocks. And a decent gun. I have used a turbine to spray wood finishes in the shop for years.....but I suppose I will have to spray auto type finishes with air. Too bad as there is almost no mess, mixing fuss or over spray with my Accuspray turbine gun and waterborne finish system. I cringe every time I think of spraying this truck.....it just seems like I am going back to the old oil based lacquers and crap we used to spray back in the dark ages. :eek: Jeff Hank....your truck is way too shiny. I think a rub down with a brown scotchbrite pad will fix that.
  8. Hi Rob; I don't think I want to mess with a clear coat type paint job. I am in SoCal so formulation may be different and cost's are definitely higher. Jeff
  9. Hi Tim; I am not planning on using the truck until all the work is done. My one concern with this is that I won't be able to do all the painting at one time. With my work schedule as it is I can only work on this stuff a day here and there. So this process of priming and painting may be spread out over a period of a few months. I am not certain if this has any bearing on material selection? I did get a price of $160/gal from my local supplier for the tinted primer. This included hardener and reducer. I believe this product is made by Valspar but I am not sure. Jeff
  10. One of the ideas I have been considering is using a primer that is tinted the same color as the topcoat. In my case this will most likely be a light tan color. What are the pros and cons of this? I can keep it out of the weather until it has a final topcoat. I am taking all the body parts down to bare metal. There is some filler work to do which I think will be fine to do on the bare metal. I suppose once this has all been primered there will be another pass of filler to take care of some imperfections that were missed in the first pass. Then more primer and prep for topcoat. I am planning on leaving some of the old dents and scrapes but it is my intention to do a good enough job on this to protect against future deterioration. I would be perfectly happy if this turns out looking like an old work truck.......cause after all that is what it is. Thanks, Jeff
  11. Hi Guy's; I am afraid I inadvertently hijacked the thread Dolly Dodge started. Sorry about that Dolly. I thought maybe I should start a thread specifically to share body prep and painting ideas. I am learning (hopefully) as I go and am certain that there are others here who are in the same boat as me.....you know need to put a finish of some sort on our trucks.......but can't afford a big buck paint job. Also this might be a good place to share ideas about the level of finish and techniques & equipment required to get there. Jeff
  12. Welcome to the forum Justin I am just finishing up a conversion on my B-3-C 116" 3/4 ton with the high side bed. Dana 35 3.55 ratio with 12" disc's and 11" Volare disc;s on the front with stock 15" wheels all around. I have done this so that this truck can be used as my daily driver here in Southern California and still look fairly original. Keeping up with traffic and stopping well is just is not an option here. I am all for originality wherever and whenever possible. You haven't said if your truck has the standard 9' bed but if it does I think it might be possible to do these swaps and get it to look fairly correct. If there was one thing I could change about my truck it would be to go to 126" wheelbase and the longer bed. Sort of a long wb 3/4 ton look if you will? Dodge may have even offered this as an option? Now I know that this conversion suggestion may not set well with others but I think it could work well depending on how and where you intend to use the truck. Jeff
  13. Hi Hank; Not sure I like the bare steel look much either. Maybe if it were stainless? The only thing that could be wrong with painting it yourself is if you put a whole lot of effort into it........and then hate it when it is done. A big part of me just want's this aspect of the build to be over with. Maybe I will just buy an assortment of rattle cans and turn it over to the local taggers for a few days. Jeff
  14. I hear you. Rust is an insidious thing. I wonder if you could apply a satin wax over it as it is? Seems to be if you could keep it from "growing" it would be OK for a long time. I do know you don't want it to get out of control. I am just about done getting my entire truck down to bare metal. It has been quite a job with the limited experience and tools I have. What little original paint I found under all the primer seems to have been laid on directly to the bare metal. At least I could see no evidence of primer under it. At this point I think I am going to paint it myself. :eek: Probably a 50's type tan. The local auto paint supplier can tint the primer to match the topcoat which I think may be the way to go for someone with my limited skills. If it comes out looking like an old work truck.....I will be happy. Keep up the great work on Dolly. Can't wait to see another adventure video. Jeff
  15. Yes I can imagine how you might feel that way. What looks great to me...... may not be as easy on your eyes. I think it is sort of one of those grass is always greener things too. I really like it though......has a ton of character. And it looks like it belongs to the country it lives in. I have been trying to come up with a finish scheme for my truck......and it has been a real struggle. What I know is that I don't want it to look new and shiny. I know I don't want flawless body work either. I don't mind a few dents and scrapes....in fact I think that it is totally appropriate for a 60 year old truck to show some signs of wear and tear. Who or what goes through that much time without some scar's? I also know I don't really care for the rat rod primer look either. Or most of the artificial looking patina paint jobs I have seen. The few that I have come across that looked interesting seem as though they are probably twice as much work as a normal paint job. I am really having a tough time determining how to proceed with this. It doesn't help that I don't have much experience with auto paint....or that much money either. Jeff
  16. Mark; Boy O boy.....I hope you weren't counting on these guy's to get your back. Sargent Shultz said it best, maybe a bit before your time........ "I know nothing.......nothing at all" Jeff
  17. Ok......I am sure you already know this ....... but the patina your truck has is amazing. Genuine character like that just can't be duplicated. I wish...I wish....I wish. Jeff
  18. Chris; I believe you will have to look at pre-98 Cherokees for that pattern. Jeff
  19. Well sort of .....but maybe more like glued, sealed and painted. In my opinion doing it the way you have done reduces the chance of future failure dramatically. Stop leak products work best when there is a bit of flow....and not so much on a tiny weep that might have occurred with the JB Weld if you had used it first. Jeff
  20. Wow! Are you painting Dolly? or did you just do the interior? Jeff
  21. Mark; Good deal. Now if you go over it with JB weld and repaint you will have the best of both worlds. Jeff
  22. Sounds like your swap is similar to mine. Good news is that the yoke will be a dead on match. Just need the Jeep mounting clips and bolts. You will have to do some "extra" work to switch over to stock type 15" 5x5 wheels. If the wheels you have are like mine they are meant for a 9/16" dia. lug stud. If they are newer wheels this may not be necessary. On the rear you will probably have to add spacers and do a bit of light grinding on the calipers to get them to fit. I had some 3/8" spacers made up and pressed in larger studs. Most of the front disc kits are 4.5 x 5 wheel pattern so you will need to get some adapters. I found some 1" thick ones and had them bored out for larger press in studs. Hope this helps, Jeff
  23. I have some questions inline with this topic. I have been working on getting my truck down to bare metal and need to get it primed soon. Can epoxy primer be tinted? I want to go with a light tan color and one of the non epoxy systems I have been looking at offers tinted primers. Also what is the minimum set up required to spray epoxy? I have a pair of oil type 2 cylinder compressors that I can hook up in tandem to get about 10-12 CFM with 80 gallon reserve. I don't want to spend more than is necessary on a gun that is only going to be used for this one project. Also what respirator etc....do you recommend for this? Thanks for your input. Jeff
  24. If Chris' 52 is the same as mine...... the stock Pilothouse rear U-joint is a perfect fit to the Jeep yoke....just have to use the Jeep mounting hardware. No muss...no fuss Jeff
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