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Jeff Balazs

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Jeff Balazs last won the day on January 30

Jeff Balazs had the most liked content!

About Jeff Balazs

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    Guru, have been a long time contributor
  • Birthday 02/26/1955

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  • Website URL
    http://www.heartofoakworkshop.com
  • Occupation
    Woodworker

Profile Information

  • My Project Cars
    52 B3C daily driver

Converted

  • Location
    Coto de Caza, Ca.
  • Interests
    Fishing & vintage Brit Bikes

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  1. Jocko; I know I used Permatex........think it was brown. It has worked just fine on my truck. As far as pressure testing goes I borrowed a pressure tester from a mechanic buddy of mine and pumped it up to 12#. As I recall it held for 2 or 3 hours.....and I figured that was good enough. I did this with a freshly re-cored radiator and all new hoses, etc. It probably doesn't need to be tested that high.....I would think any leaks like you have had would show at 5#or 6#. Hth, Jeff
  2. Mark; I would think whoever repaired would have pressure tested the repair. Should have? When I had my original radiator re-cored the fellow that owned the shop said it was tested at 12# and that I could run it with a 12# cap if I wanted. After I put it all back together I borrowed a tester and pumped it up to to 12# for an hour and it held. If you have a original honeycomb core then I would not go that high. I would think 4# or so would be fine. Fwiw I don't think I would be comfortable using it if it won't hold a bit of pressure......even if it is at zero most of the time. Jeff
  3. If you have the stock fuel pump then you need a heat shield. You can either make one or buy one. They are essential when using these modern fuels. It is hot here in Socal. I ended up removing the stock pump and running a full time electric pump. I also made a shield that fits between the carby and the manifolds. Pretty much solved fuel issues I was having. With these newer fuel formulas and the way the manifolds are on these engines you may have to deviate a bit from the stock installation to solve this. Jeff
  4. It should work Mark; I pressure tested mine and ran a 4# cap for a while. Without some pressure on the system Bars leak has little chance of sealing anything. Jeff
  5. Mark; Think about this for a moment. The system needs to be pressurized for any of these products to work well. They need to flow into the crack in order to seal it. Doesn't need to 15#....4# would make it work. But in a 0 psi system there isn't much chance it is going to be forced through the crack. Jeff
  6. Pretty sure Bars just works on small leaks in radiators. There is "better" stuff that is supposed to work well in fine cracks in steel and cast iron. It is a liquid that has some sort of ultrafine ceramic particles in it along with a heat activated bonding agent. Be damned if I can remember the name of it. Next time I see one of my mechanic buddies I will ask him. I know that he has had some positive results using it. Jeff
  7. If it were my truck I think I would try a sealer mixed in the coolant first. Run it for a while and monitor it closely. A crack like this is likely to stop up with the sealer. The sealer will not work if the leak is stopped by external epoxy. The block sealer needs to flow into the crack when the engine is up to temperature in order to form a bond. Once this has taken place then you can do a external cosmetic repair. Jeff
  8. I think there is a likelihood it will leak if it is not at least functionally repaired. You can get a FD type repair kit from Mikes that has a new plunger assembly. Jeff
  9. Jocko; When the Felpro gasket on my truck let go I can assure you that I had white smoke in the exhaust and coolant in my oil. I was fortunate that it happened as I was leaving my house one morning. I just pulled it into the garage and drained everything immediately. I never bothered with trying to trace the path the coolant took to get into the oil. Instead I focused on the cause of the failure and a plan on preventing it from happening again. Because this truck is my primary transportation I keep a fairly comprehensive collection of spares. Including a complete new set of engine gaskets by Best. After removing the head I took it and the gasket to some mechanic and machinist buddies of mine where they showed me where and why it had failed. The consensus conclusion was an inferior gasket. I was back on the road later that day and have not had any further problems with it. That was a couple of years ago. Btw I took the precaution of running fresh oil in it for around an hour. Then I did another full oil change to be certain that there was no more coolant in the oil. Because of the design of this engine there are a few spots on the head gasket that have a very narrow sealing surface. My guess is that these areas are where 95% of all the L6 head gasket failures occur. Hth, Jeff
  10. Jocko; I am going to say here what you probably already know. Got to be real careful with parts selection and fit for these old engines. There is a lot of rubbish out there and while a lot of it looks correct it just doesn't hold up. For head gaskets you really want Best brand. And you should probably plan on applying copper coat spray on treatment as well. I started off with a gasket set made by Felpro....a well known brand .....but their head gasket did not hold up. And believe me it was properly torqued down and re torqued a few times after a few heat cycles. When I pulled the head I a a few of my buddies who are full time mechanics look things over and their conclusion was the install was fine but the product was not. They run into this kind of problem all the time with inferior spares etc. The point I am trying to make is that it is not uncommon to find out the hard way that some of the stuff you end up using can be a real problem. Unlike most of the fellas on this site I use my truck daily and it is my primary transportation. My approach to keeping my truck on the road has been to use the very best quality stuff I can lay my hands on. When I had problems with the Felpro head gasket a couple of the guys on this site suggested the Best gasket as a better solution. It has performed perfectly now for several thousand miles. When I finally get around to rebuilding my engine another Best brand gasket will be part of it. I had to find this out the hard way but that is just part of putting one of these great old trucks into use again. We are all going to make some mistakes on stuff like this and that is part of the whole experience. Jeff
  11. What brand head gasket did you use? They are in this particular case not all created equally. "Best" is only one I will ever use on one of these engines. Had issues with Felpro....... Jeff
  12. Great story Tim! You know the thing is he beat you far and square. He probably just psyched you and your engine out. That happens some times when you least expect it. Makes things interesting for those of us that are big John Henry fans. You know what the best part is? That old flat 6 is probably still runnin Jeff
  13. Don't know about the regulator thing or polarity of the generator. I run a single wire 6V alternator . 4 years of daily use and it has been totally carefree. If it was me I would be looking hard for either a loose wiring connection or a bad switch. What I do know is when it is a 6 volt system everything must be in very good shape or there will be problems. One of the main reasons that 6V was abandoned in favor of 12V was the frequency of electrical issues. The fact that the gauge jumps around when you tap it might be an indicator of some sort of failure there....... Jeff
  14. Mark; Could be something moisture related. Maybe a bit of water got somewhere it shouldn't? It is a bear to get the leaks at the windshield stopped. I had a problem with these leaks getting to my headlight switch this winter. Went out early one rainy morning and about half the lights were not working. Gauges read funny as well. I ended up pulling the headlight switch and it was wet and was beginning to show signs of corroding. I took it apart and gave everything a good cleaning and low and behold all the problems were fixed. 15 minute job. Your problem might be something similar. . Jeff
  15. Thanks T 120. It has worked just fine. I do think the addition of the pressure regulator is a must when using a pump like the one I am using. I have never had a situation when I could not get it to start. And it does get very hot here. These new fuel formulas are a problem for a lot of older vehicles. I have a buddy who is a true master mechanic. He see's it with all of his customers who have older vehicles. And especially with the ones that do not get driven on a daily basis. This week it was a very nice 240Z that sits for a week or two at a time. Then it is about impossible to get it started without wearing the battery down. The fuel just evaporates out of the carbs in that amount of time. That didn't used to happen. And it even happens with newer vehicles. Let um set and find out. To help prevent some of this I keep my fuel well dosed with MMO. This seems to work and is cheap insurance. Jeff
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