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garbagestate 44

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About garbagestate 44

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    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    new jersey
  • My Project Cars
    Chrysler,Ford

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  • Location
    N.J.
  • Interests
    Paying bills

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  1. I put a chain through head bolts at opposite ends with several flat washers to keep the chain link from putting pressure on the casting when it was time to lift. There may be a better method but this worked for me.
  2. That solenoid shouldn't be too hard to replace. Lots of similar solenoids on ebay. It's the Autolite solenoids for 46-48 Chryslers that cost you your firstborn or your soul when ypu can find them.
  3. Just to muddy up the waters even more, If you find a 49 solenoid, don't buy it. It looks identical to the 46-48 but the bellhousing offset is different. The bracket orientation is an easy to miss detail.
  4. Here's a crappy shot of my ind32's data plate and another shot of its pristine color coded intake and exhaust valve springs.
  5. You could be pulling in air through the throttle plate shaft hole. They do wear out. Last time I rebuilt one I had to pick through several junkers before I found one that didn't leak.
  6. If the numbers go up it may be the rings. Last time I did a wet test I got one of those baby medicine syringes to put the oil in with since the valve train is over the plug holes. Shove a piece of plastic tubing onto the end of it and feed it in so that all the oil makes it into the bore where you want it.
  7. I have to say that that looks damn good. Did you have to sand most of it by hand? I know that I'd be the hit of my neighborhood if I were to try traditional chrome plating here in Northern New Jersey where most people don't even know how to change a tire and everybody is packed in like sardines.
  8. If it were me, I'd be more inclined to rebuild it or have someone else rebuild it if your not comfortable doing it yourself. A lot of the new replacements available out there are not great quality wise. Also, make sure the problem isn't the flexable line running from the frame to the pump itself. If it's as old as the car,it could easily be leaking and making it look like the pump is the source of the leak.
  9. You can try the damper doctor. I don't know how good they are but they have been around for years.https://www.damperdoctor.com/
  10. If it's a 49 with the original trans, It's probably an m-6,
  11. A lawyer. For somebody who supposedly passed the bar, he couldn't spell worth a tinkers damn.
  12. I don't think you have to removing the steering knuckle. Turn the steering wheel all the way over till the knuckle is out of the way. Can't remember if its all the way right or left but one of them will do it.
  13. I never did one but if I were going to,I'd probably use one of those modern brake light switches that are near the pedal arm. Pushing the pedal closes the contact and brake lights come on. You could probably adapt one of those for your e brake arm and it would be practically invisible. The best part is that they are available at any junkyard.
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