texas275

I found this diagram when I was researching mine, plus an answer or two from the guys here. It's pretty straight forward. The resistor for the coil is available in any auto parts store. The ones for the guages are 3.00 on ebay. They are called a "runtz".

My truck had no usable wiring at all. Since I was redoing all of the electrical, I decided to go with a 12v system. Super easy to convert if you are replacing everything. I did the GM alt, with a resistor at the coil. Havent hooked up any of the original guages yet, but a runtz for the fuel guage is 3 bucks on ebay. Now I can install all modern electronics with no issues. I have istalled an elecrtic fuel pump and fan. The purests say stay with the 6v, I'm a fan of the 12v. I think it just boils down to a personal choice, and what you are comfortable with. Either way you wont be wrong.

I did a search for a source on grill bars and found a thread where someone was looking and having some fabbed. Did that ever happen? Are there any aftermarket out there? I have the set that came off of mine, but they are too beat up to fix. Tom

Deal!!! Whats your brand?

I cant tell from the other picture where the little spring goes, Is it a big deal to get one? Let me know how much u want for it and shipping.

I bought one of these took it apart and put it on the top of my old one. I added a ground wire. Works fine fo 35.00. http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=276/mode=prod/prd276.htm

Does anyone else have a choke bracket they can part with? I havent heard from Reg, and I'm still needing the part. Thanks, Tom

Congrats, and looking good. I got to drive mine up and down the driveway for the first time last weekend. It's a great feeling, thats for sure. Once you get the carb tuned it's even better!!!!

I got it running smooth now. I disconnected the vacuum line from the advance and it made no difference. I checked the advance with a vacuum pump, and it moved as it should. I had the vacuum advance hooked up to the port coming off of the back of the manifold, not the carb. So I changed it over to the one coming off of the carb, and capped off the one on the manifold, re-set my points, re-set the timing and started it again. It idles great, and the acceleration is smooth as well. So it could have been not enough vacuum from the manifold, or my points/timing being off, but I am leaning toward the vacuum. Either way I’m good to go now.

I'll check that today and see what happens.

Found the problem!!! It was the two ports associated with the mixture screw. Before I took it apart agian I tried adjusting the mixture screw again. I took the screw all the way out and it did not change the way it ran. That was a clue! So i pulled it down again. When I rebuilt it the first time there was a bad spot where the two carb pieces bolt together. I had to use some sealer to make up for the defect in the mounting surfaces. Some of the sealant had gotten over the holes and fallen into the ports thus stopping them up. Thats why the mixture screw had no effect on how it ran. Cleaned it out again, and now it idles. Runs a little rough at higher RPMs. I'm sure it dont have it adjusted quite right. Any Ideas on rough running at higher RPM?

I watched those videos today. I will pull it apart one more time and compair it to the video, just to make sure I did not miss something.

I did pull the plugs. I pulled it apart today and cleaned it again. Exactly the same symptoms. I may try to pick up another carb like JBNiel said. It won't hurt to try another and I would have a spare. I did drive up and down the drive way for the first time today. That was pretty cool.

No wipers hooked up yet, and all vac lines secure. I did the rebuild with a kit from NAPA. It was running better, but has gotten worse. I had the screw adjusted out but, it ran better as I turned it in. Now it's bottomed out. I guess I'll pull it off and take it apart again.

I have tried searching but to no avail. I rebuilt the Carter carb on my 53 B4B with the 218 out of a 51 Plymouth. It sounds and acts like it is sucking too much air and I cannot figure it out. The mixture screw is all the way in, it will only run smooth with the choke at 1/2 to 3/4 closed. If I open the choke all the way it idles real rough for a few seconds until it dies. If I give it gas while idling with open choke it dies. I have sprayed the outside of the carb and manifold with starting fluid and it does not change the way it runs at all. Timing is set at tdc, it does have some ticking in the valves, but but not bad. Any ideas? Tom

Reg, your box is full. Heres my info. Not like its hard to find. Tom Hunt 16070 University Dr Forney, Tx. 75126 Thanks again, Tom

That would be great Reg. Let me know what I owe you for the part and shipping to 75126. I'll send you a PM with all my info. Thanks, Tom

My truck did not come with a bracket to hold the choke cable near the carb. Is there supposed to be one or does the clamp in the firewall hold it in place. It looks to me like I am missing some pieces. If some one could send a picture of their carb with the linkages and brackets that would be greatly appreciated. Tom

That fixed it. Moved the wire going to the coil to the ign post on the switch and works like it's supposed to. I knew I was missing something, Thanks guys for your help.

The main wire comes off of the back of the alt to the battery/starter, the number one wire from the side goes back to the ignition, and the number 2 wire from the side connects to the one on the back of the alternator. I assumed the ign side of the switch was only for a solenoid, and only had power while turning to the far right. I will move the coil wire to the ign side of the switch when I get home. I’ll let yall know if that does it.

I have the number 1 wire off of the alt going to the key switch and the coil wire running from the same post on switch. So I guess it is like wiring it straight to the alternator. So do I need to move my coil wire to the ign post?

It has the main wire that goes to the starter then two more wires that come off of the side of the alternator. Would that be a 3 wire? Tried two different diodes but same result The key switch is the Chinese model, with Batt, ign, and acc. I don’t have anything on the ign post as I was assuming that was for a solenoid type starter. So I need to wire my ignition (coil wire) to the ign post and leave the others on the acc post?

Ok, new question. I wired it up and it starts and runs but it won’t shut off with the key. I read that it needed a diode on the number 1 wire from the alternator. I put one in and it still won’t shut off. I have the wire from the starter/battery going to the battery side of the switch, and the rest of the wires got to the accessory side. I know the alternator is keeping it running, and I know I have something hooked up wrong, but I don’t know what it is. Any ideas? Tom

53 truck, with a grafted 50 front end, and a 51 motor. With all the mixed years Frankenstein seemed appropriate.

I dont know if its a direct swap, but I was looking in that year model too when I was searching for one. A good one is very hard to find. I looked for months before I decided on aftermarket. For me it all came down to money.