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38plymouth

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38plymouth last won the day on May 6 2013

38plymouth had the most liked content!

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About 38plymouth

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Merritt Island Florida
  • Interests
    Cars, fishing, bbq, homebrewing
  • My Project Cars
    1938 Plymouth P6

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Cars, fishing, bbq, homebrewing
  • Occupation
    Mostly retired

Converted

  • Location
    Merritt Island Fl
  • Interests
    Cars, fishing, brewing
  1. Ball and ball accerator pump

    I would say it runs ok but it does have a little hesitation on acceleration. When I rev it in neutral quickly it tries to stall. It didn't do this before the rebuild with the short accelerator pump so I'm still playing with it trying to get it right.
  2. Ball and ball accerator pump

    Everything on the carb looks stock to me except the accelerator pump. I have had the car over 20 years and it was an original unrestored car with 40,000 miles. It has some paint work done but everything else was stock and original.
  3. Ball and ball accerator pump

    My carb # is c6j1.
  4. Ball and ball accerator pump

    I have what I believe is the original carb on my 1938 Plymouth. I have rebuilt the carburetor several times over the years and always noticed that the accelerator pump that came in the kit was too long so I reused my old shorter pump. I recently ordered a new kit from Mike's carburetor parts and everything was perfect in the kit except once again the accelerator pump is way too long. I inspected my pump closer and noticed that it looked like it was cut off and braised. I contacted Mike's carburetor parts and they couldn't figure it out but they thought they found a rebuild kit from another company with a shorter pump. I can't say enough good things about Mike's carburetor parts, they purchased that kit from a competitor and shipped it to me for free. Unfortunately that pump is also too long. The owner of the other company insists that the pump is the right one for my carburetor and I just need to install it and be done with it. I did try a longer pump but my spring is too short and the pump won't work correctly. I'm thinking I may install it again and stretch the spring and see if I can make that work. Right now my car seems to be running fine with the rebuild on the carburetor and with my old shorter pump. I'm just concerned that the accelerator pump is at least 20 years old that I know of. If the new longer one will work with my stretched spring I'm willing to give it a try. I'm just curious if anyone has ever seen a shorter accelerator pump in one of their old ball and ball carburetors? I will try to attach a picture showing my old pump compared to the new one. Also if mine was shortened why on earth would somebody do that?
  5. Carb number help

    A friend suggested that I try lowering the float to clean up the rough idle. I had it set to 5/64 like the kit said but lowered it anyways and now it idles and runs great. Can someone explain why a high float would cause a rough idle? I stared into the carb awhile and just don't see why it would happen.
  6. Carb number help

    So pissed off right now I had it running great took it out for a test drive and got a quarter mile from my house and it died. Had to get my wife and neighbor to help me tow it back home I pulled the top off the carburetor and there's no fuel. When I crank it there's no fuel pumping into the carburetor now. I suspected my crappy fuel that ate the fuel lines ate the diaphragm in the fuel pump. So I pulled the fuel pump off disassembled it and I don't find anything wrong with it. I also blew back through the fuel line into the tank and could hear it bubbling. Hopefully someone has some ideas cuz I'm at a loss right now. ***It turned out to be a very dirty screen in the pump, I thought I took that out years ago. It pumps great now and started right up. Of course now the smooth idle on my freshly rebuilt carb is gone and it's idling very rough. I suspect the plugs, they are black from choking it to death trying to get it started while I was stranded. This thing is really testing my patience. I'm quiting for the day and am headed to the moose club to discuss it with all the old car guys. I think I need a beer.
  7. Carb number help

    I rebuilt my carb this morning, changed the rubber lines, cleaned the fuel bowl and siphoned as much fuel out of the tank as I could. I put 5 gallons of fresh gas in and tried to start it. It cranked forever and never got fuel in the fuel bowl. I pulled the top of the carburetor off and filled the carb fuel bowl with fuel and managed to get the engine to fire but I still had to pour fuel from a Bottle Into the carburetor to keep it running. I'm still not getting enough fuel in the fuel pump glass bowl to pump it up to the carburetor. After all that it's maybe half full. I had to take a break from it because I ran the battery down is there an easy way for me to speed up this fuel pump process? I hope something didn't go wrong inside the fuel pump I'm not sure how that could have happened since it was working fine before. I really wish I had one of those 6 volt electric pumps right now. Dang, it took awhile but it finally got fuel....
  8. Carb number help

    The electric pump is a great idea, but I won't have time to order one and have it installed before Saturday mornings car show. I have replaced the line from the fuel pump to the carburetor in the past but pulled off the line from the fuel pump to the metal line on the frame the other day and it literally crumbled in my hands. I just wanted to make sure there was no other line under the car that was as bad as that one. It's also kind of strange, I drained about 4 gallons of fuel out of the tank and it doesn't look that bad or smell that bad. The stuff I found in the carburetor was very murky and smelly.
  9. Carb number help

    I don't have access to my car right now to look, but I'm wondering if anyone knows if there is any rubber fuel line in the system on a 38 Plymouth? I have to drain my tank to get rid of my old fuel and I want to try to replace any rubber line I find in the system. I know there is a small piece from the metal line that goes into the fuel pump but I don't recall what is at the rear of the car. I was hoping to grab whatever I need for it today from the store before I get home tonight to work on the car.
  10. Carb number help

    I just ordered one from mikes carburetor, should be here in 2 days.
  11. Carb number help

    I made a few calls and neither of those numbers are right. I finally found the right number using a flashlight, camera and zoom. Wow that writing is hard to see. The right number is C6J1 and it's the correct carb for a 1938. I'm really hoping Napa can get a kit for me quickly.
  12. Carb number help

    My car ran great a week ago although I hadn't driven it in about 10 months, I took it for a 5-mile drive and everything was fine. I started it up Saturday morning to go to a car show and it would idle but it would not accelerate it would stumble like crazy and die. I found some bad spark plug wires and replace them but it still stumbled and died. I noticed the gas smelled kind of bad even though I had treated it and also put in 5 gallons of fresh fuel so I pulled the top off of the carburetor and everything is gunked up seals are ruined and there's black chunks in the carburetor bore. Unfortunately it has ethanol fuel in it, so looks like I'll be draining the fuel tank replacing the lines and rebuilding the carburetor. I could use some help with the carburetor number, the car is at 38 Plymouth with a 201 the only numbers I can find on the carburetor are B8LA15 and 0-348. I have another car show to go to Saturday so I need to get moving on this quick. I'm not sure which number I need to use to order and I'm curious to know what year car the carburetors off of, the last time I rebuilt the carburetor most of the gaskets were not correct and I ordered them for a 1938 Plymouth.
  13. Sparkplug wire questions

    Well it looks like they do just crimp on and you don't have to strip any of the wire back. They seem to work just like they are.
  14. Sparkplug wire questions

    There are 2 little points, are they supposed to pierce all the way to the center core WIRE? There is no way that the points are long enough to do that they will probably just go past the black outer skin. I got these wires because I have to have one end off of them in order to fit them through the metal wire loom on the engine. I don't want to go with the set of pre-made wires because that I won't be able to use that anymore.
  15. Sparkplug wire questions

    I'm not sure how it happened but my spark plug wires that are only a few years old are falling apart inside where they Snap-on to the spark plug. The little clips that lock in place are breaking and falling out. I just picked up a new set from Tractor Supply and they are the universal type so I have to put on the end that goes into the distributor. The directions just say I need to lock the brass end onto the bare wire. I don't see how on earth that's going to make a contact with the wire in side, the only time I ever built wires before I was supposed to strip back the insulation to get to the bare wire and fold it over and then crimp on the end. Am I missing something with these wires or should I do it that way again?
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