3dodgedoobie

Ok. I gotcha know. I miss read it.

Plymouthy adams. Both cars are US built. So do you mean that the rear fenders will interchange between the dodge and plymouth?

I have some questions on parts interchange. Will rear fenders from a 46 to 48 4door plymouth interchange with 46 to 48 4 door dodge? Same with rocker trim?

Ok I have a 47 Plymouth 4dr. I bought this car with locked up motor. Got it freed and would backfire threw carb. Stuck valves and 1 broke one. Ran block numbers and it was out of truck.. No biggy as it was Just a driver. Well couldn't get broke valve out. So I done So be work on another couple cars and had good deal on a later model motor and tranny. Which ran numbers and it's out of a 53 plymouth car. Know here is my issue. I took the motor out of car with tranny attached. It will be the dirty rusty pictures. Set it beside the good motor and noticed the transmission is differant. The installed combo: 1)has longer tailshaft. 2) has these numbers on passenger side 1139152-13. And on side with selector is PF 853835-76 best I could tell. The uninstalled combo: 1)shorter tail shaft. 2) 1139152-4. With a large H under the 4 and on other side at selector is PF 853855-773 best I could tell. Could I swap out tailshaft with the 2? Also could I change brake hardware out. The one that is the fresh motor has new brake parts on it. Along with new clutch pressure plate etc in it also. The whole motor was rebuilt. I have pictures but the a lot bigger than aloud on here to upload. Thanks for any and all help

Will do flatie46. I know exactly where the little town is. Use to go threw there every week with where I work. Still with same company just promoted or demoted however u want to look at it. Went from driving a route truck to babysitting adults. Lol

Knuckleharley and the dr's in. I plan on checking and replacing all brakes on the car. Along with any rubber hoses. What I meant for the master cylinder still had fluid in it is that no major leaks, and no wet spots on frame. After I get it running I plan on doing brakes. If it won't run then I have a newer charger with hemi in it. That might need to find new home in this car. Bought the car for the motor. tree hand landed on top of car. 76,000 miles. Runs and drives. But that last resort. I won't let her drive something that I wouldn't deem safe.

Thanks and the building is a 24 x 36. The dodge is over in other corner patiently waiting. When we bought our house it had 1 car garage under house. That's where my dakota stays. Bagged and bodied. Had enough room to build garage so I did. Who needs much of a yard to mow. Lol. No we have a acre lot so we have plenty of yard. Wife said as long as toys fit in garage u can have however many u want. So I went with biggest I could on the space I could. Lol

Took out plugs, took belt off front of engine, had to remove radiator to get down there. Bought a 1 11/16 3/4 drive socket and breaker bar. Had to trim some of the socket off to make it fit between motor and brace. Filled cylinders full of marvel mystery oil. Let it soak for a day. Tried it no movement. Sprayed some pb blaster with the straw attachment heavily in all cylinders. Waited couple hrs doing other things. Then went and gave it a try and it moved. So I kept going back and forth soaking the piston with mystery oil. Finally got it all the way loose. Turned motor by hand several times. Then hit the switch and let the starter turn it over.

Yes it is very solid car. Previous owner from what I can tell bought it new or in early 50s. Had paperwork from 50s in it. He had front glass replaced in 1990. The door glass on 3 doors need replaced they are cracked. Floor pans are solid, trunk pan at the spare tire pan is rotted. And they attempted to fix with fiberglass. Needs headliner and one price of trim. The hard to find cowl piece that on driver side. The master cylinder still has fluid in it. And didn't see any wets spots around any lines. It will be a good driver for wife to get use to the big body no power steering. Etc etc. The 48 we redoing is hers. Hopefully have it up and running and moving on its own this summer. (Been gathering parts). But for the price of 1800.00 bucks I think I did ok.

More pics.

I recently purchased 47 plymouth sedan, non running, last tagged in 90s, been sitting ever since. Motor was frozen. Key word was. Got her broke free, need some brake work(goes to flr and stays) haven't tried making it run yet. Been under the weather. Also restoring our 48 dodge sedan when time allows. Got the 47 to drive while the dodge is under the knife. few questions: 1) clips for the hubcaps that attach to wheels. Any sources on those? 2) the door rubbers around doors I know they suppose to be glue on type. But anyone ever put the push on type on? 3) the door window rubbers. Is Clemons, steele, and Roberts still up and going? she will hopefully be running this week.

Ok. I have a 48 dodge 4dr sedan. Missing front seat. Have no measurements on what is factory. I have access to a 47 plymouth sedan. How close are they to be correct. If someone or couple. Could measure a plymouth seat and a dodge seat. That would be great. The seat is 1hr away. Plan on going Saturday if it will fit.

Ok. Don thanks for the quick reply. Ggdad thanks for the info. Know I just need to find all the parts. I did luck up and the motor is 12volt. Took it to work ran some numbers and found it was 12v. Also confirmed that the heater box has been updated. Now to find the splitter for defrost. If nothing else I can maybe make it with some fabing. also all that rare fresh air stuff which im in no hurry for but if cone across it be great too. the vents I can understand the function. Also the water splitter out in engine bay which I will probably need when I do find all the fresh air stuff. Does it just stop the flow or actually acts as a bypass?

ok I lucked up and bought this great shape model 65 heater. core has no leaks. case is a green color with stainless trim around middle. has 3 openings. 2 of which is screened covered from inside. if you have the mopar model 65 logo where you can read it without standing on your head on bottom there is a door that opens. then on left side the whole side of case is open with screen. on the right side you have 1 open with screen about half of side. then below that looks like the defrost square hole. now I have some questions. 1 question? for the defrost vents to hook up I know you have to go from 2 round ?inch pipes to 1 square. probably even had a cable controlled flap on inside. I need one of these so where can I find one? 2 question? I read on the forums after doing some searching that someone used a ford pinto motor to convert 12v. had to drill out the fan center I think. anyone have year of said pinto (or other donor car) or a part number? I need it to be 12volt. 3 question? the core is open to firewall side im assuming for the rare fresh air function. which I would like to add in the future. 4 question? the opened vents with screens what are those for? 5 question? the doored vent on bottom whats the purpose? thanks for everyones answers/advice. as im trying to keep the vintage mopars alive in this ford and chevy country.

Kewl. Are the anyone who remakes our bumpers for 48 dodge

Thanks guys. He priced it all as a bundle. Bumpers doors etc etc. For one price. But if no good on dodge and our doors are fine. Then dont need any more bumpers laying around

Ok question. I have 1948 dodge d24 4 door im restoring for wife. We need bumpers. I found some for a 46-48 plymouth. Are they the same? Also the rear doors? they look the same. And last but not least side chrome that goes down the doors and body? Are they all the same?

Correct. You lock from outside with no modification to door mechanism. All keys and locks do in first place is keep honest man honest. If a crook wants something bad enough they going to get it.

Yes you can lock both doors with these handles. The handles there self lock. From what I can tell they lock to the part that bolts up to door internally. Might be one of those things if u not a dodge guy probably never notice it.

Went with the whole I can lock my doors and function. Afterall mine not stock by no means.

I need to get tapered screws for the handle these was just couple I had laying around that threaded into door.

Working on that. Im on smartphone so. We see how this works. In one of the pics you can see where the old handle was originally at with the point. These have matching keys that keep the handle turning from the base.

Ok I solved my problem of outside door handles and locks. They may not look excactly like factory but they serve there purpose for me. Bought a set of mack truck handles part number 25-125 on bag they in. They bolt right up to door perfect. Now the only thing I had to do is take a old one that was rusted apart but the shaft still good and square. Cut 3/4 to 1 inch off end and weld it to the end of the mack one.

They look good. But the problem is slop. The s.s is loose on the handle. Took one apart and spring is rusted in 2 etc etc. May try something on it. Next raining day

Ok I did a search and found alot of car threads. My door handles on the outside is rusty and seen better days. They work still but need fixed or replaced. Any info who has them? I can find inside handles everywhere. Or if say ones off chevy would or might work.( I know I know but going to super chevy this weekend and might get some cheap. ) also inside door arm rests? Are they all the same for chevy ford dodge of those yrs? If not no biggie I can order those. But the handles I cant seem to find