rumble48

I am thinking of going down that path..... trimming the gasket on the inside would make it fit into the groove of the canister top... not much of a steady hand these days...thanks

ok I give.... Since I purchased my plymouth several years ago, I have been changing the oil each year, using the napa 1080 filter, this filter fit fine, but the gasket has always seemed to be thicker/wider than the groove in the top allows. So under the heading of 'don't fix it if it ain't broke', I just put the top back on and called it done. This year after the oil change I noticed some oil pooling in the top of the filter, after researching here on the website I found my problem was most likely the fiber washer in the top... so I changed it out for a copper one.... problem solved. Almost, now that I'm paying more attention, the gasket for the top (that I never change) is allowing some oil to leak down the side of the canister.... I looked at a napa 1010, and while the filter looks similar, the gasket diameter is much smaller and not workable. Back to the 1080, the gasket does fit in the top, but seems too wide to fit into the groove for good sealing. Any suggestions/comments would be appreciated.

Tac... I was fortunate that my vent bound in the closed position... as part of car painting prep I worked in this area and found that the pivot pins that allow open/close were bound. after several rounds of various lubes.. I used a small cut-off tool to cut the pins. I replaced with new hardware and a vent seal: problem solved. I think the most difficult part was getting to it... ie. radio/bracket/etc. removal and that wasn't all that bad..... ps... ditto advice from robertkb....

Plymouthy.... no. I used an AAJ provided chevy master and AAJ bracketry, residuals, & adjustable proportioning valve without any other mods other than the disc. front. As I said, it all functions and stops fine, but with the window down I feel/hear some dragging from the front which seems to dissipate quickly. Also not a brake expert, but from discussion and reading, isn't the issue (need for residual) whether the master is above or below the calibers? So I have wondered if this wouldn't be affected by the stance of the car? ie. lowered some degree.... which mine is.... but not dumped. as you might have already have determined.... I might be telling you more than I know....

I have wondered about the check valve requirement, I have done the rusty /scarebird mods to my 48 coupe, and am very pleased, but I can feel some drag from the the front after applying and letting off the brakes, and have wondered a time or two about removing the residual from the front.... I read in the past regarding similar comments from other folks..... comments?

I have tried the Napa 1080 as well as an ac version, they both seemed to fit with only one problem, the gasket would not fit into the upper cover.... I have been lucky that the old gasket has been reusable with no leaks so far. I will be changing the oil and filter in the spring and probably take another stab at it, any guidance would be appreciated.

Completed the Scarebird front Disc conversion and the AAJ dual master conversion August. I noticed the gap you are referring to, but in driving it since, it seems to drive and brake fine... no grease loose anywhere... craig

In my searches I did run across the ebay guy..... If you look close you just make out the gold threads on the u bolt.... lol

wondered if this post was stretching the bounds of propriety..... thanks for allowing some responses..... I realize U bolts are a dime a dozen, but I was hoping to find some (flat on the closed end) stock ones. I thought I had seen reference to a vendor selling nos new & used parts out of Texas, but no luck finding this am. Also while I have heard other folks recommend replacement every time, inspecting them for defects, cleaning the threads, and replacing those that are clearly at end of life, has worked for me. If I can't find them, I will order some aftermarket and replace them all in order to have them all the same style. craig

In the midst of swopping in a different axle into my 48 Plymouth and noticed one of the U bolts is stripped, I have checked several mopar sites and no luck finding a replacement. can anyone point me in the right direction? A used one in good condition, preferred. thanks... craig

I think you would be smart to check the points gap even if they said preset..... it's not any harder than setting a spark plug gap..... as for the where that's a good question. craig

Just based on research, both the D35 and the mopar 8.25 used in 90+ Cherokee's are 60" width, same as the 46-8 p18. The spring pads would need to aligned with the p18 springs, and properly angled before re-welding. D35's used in wranglers are less than popular, because they are apt to fail when abused in conjunction with larger tires... which isn't usually a problem in p18's etc.... craig

I have been thinking about a similar swap, and debating 3.55 or 3.73 gears. On the driveshaft you will need to have your shaft modified to match the D 35 yoke...... guestimate 2-300.00. interested to hear how you like it after the change.....

Enjoyed the photos, wish I were close enough to participate.....

Thanks for sharing a smile, and Merry Christmas to all........

Also available at Fastenal... stainless in several different lengths..... craig

very cool car, great work putting together the pic's

Jim, if I read your note correctly, no machine work is to be done, and no piston replacement, and you said you see no evidence of odd wear, I would think you would want the pistons/rod to go back in the same holes they came out of...... just an opinion, craig

The early Cherokee/wranglers (mid 80's to late 90's) axle was a Dana 35. this axle is not well thought of in the jeeping world, as it has a reputation of failing under hard use with larger tires. This should not be a problem in our world, but later Cherokee's came with a mopar 8.25 which if you can find one might be a better choice than the dana. Both 60" wide, and came in 3.55 & 3.73 with our bolt pattern. The Ranger/exploder 8.8 diff is slightly offset to the Passenger side & the axle is slightly narrower than the Jeep if memory serves, but this was never a problem on the wrangler. So lots of choices out there.

Good pic's, keep them coming, my 48 is a candidate for the same.... craig

not an expert, but is it possible that the larger center is actually part of the old filter, and should also be removed?? you should be able to look at the old filter and see if the center section is missing.....

I've heard that the signal lites flash much faster if you get chrome

Thomba48: did see your post, and looked up Signal Stat, which looked exactly like the cheapy (paid $35-40) that broke. Young Ed: I will give another look at the 900. thanks to both for the responses..... craig

A couple of years ago I added turn signals to my 48 Ply. I used a 7 wire unit that I got through my local auto parts house. When I began installing it I noticed the "chrome" housing of the unit was actually plastic, I went ahead and installed it, and it seemed to work ok. fast forward to now.... while driving the other day I put the signal on and felt a crunch in the signal housing and the unit basically self destructed. So i'm looking for a new unit 'not' made of plastic, (chrome not required). I have seen some discussion of 'signal stat' units, and looked them up, but they looked basically the same as the plastic unit I have (had). can somebody recommend a good non-plastic unit, or confirm some model of signal stat that is not plastic??

x3 not equal.....