austinsailor

Well, my options just opened up. Made a 700 mile round trip yesterday when the seller called and said I could come pick up the parts truck I'd found on Craigslist. Running motor, rebuilt carb, good running gear. And what appears to be a good gas tank, and new plug wires (that I needed badly). Someone has put on new rear springs, or at least what appears to be not original. Only 3 leaves, a very soft feel to it. I might try them in place of my tall stack with overloads and see if it'll ride real nice. I'll post some more pictures when it gets light out.

I had to make a tool to fit the drain in the differential, since it was bigger than a 1/4" and smaller than 3/8". Got it made, took out the plug and looked at it. Nothing. Seems to have no oil at all. Not good. Pulled the backing plates and axles, am having a devil of a time getting the darned Cleveland U joints apart. Had to quit tonight, but if all is not well, I will see if the third member from the 40 Dodge will fit. Then there is that parts truck I'm chasing. One thing is for sure - there are enough of these around to find the parts to put it back together.

If I end up going through this motor, I'd just as soon spice it up just a bit. ARe higher compression pistons available? What about a better cam? Anyone know sources? Thanks.

The strainers come from NAPA, I'll post the part numbers in a bit. I'll have to dig them out. They come as two pieces, the strainer and the rubber ring. I hadn't looked close at the oil lines, there was a lot of crud there. I assumed they were rubber like my cars. But I just got in there and they are steel, so I don't have a worry of a rotten line taking out my motor. No new lines needed. I oiled up the cam and lobes, put the pan back on, new Rotella 30 weight (old formula with lots of zinc) and cranked her over. Or tired. Starter was shot, the bendex was rusted up. So, I dug all the crap off my 40 Dodge 4 door sedan in the corner, pulled the starter, and we're back in business. Ran compression checks, got readings all over the place. 30 to 105. Might need rings. But, I've got a parts truck located with a running motor, might be good. The 40 Dodge is also a possibility. Or my 42 Plymouth. No shortage of choices. Might even tear down and re-ring the original motor. Shouldn't take long. I plan to take all the brake lines off this week and make new ones. That should be fun. The rest of the brake parts will be in in a day or two, so I can keep cruising.

About 5'. Just right for something like this. Not deep enough for Corvette, too deep for a big truck.

Here she is, getting ready to go together

Not yet. Wanted to clean it all out before pumping old crud into the passages and bearings. Pan is off, new gasket will be here today, so probably spin it tonight. I could use new oil filter lines. Are they available from Bernbaum or Roberts or? I'm hoping they are all the same. filters were add ons, so I'm not sure. found a parts truck with a running engine and most likely a good gas tank. Might make life a lot easier for me. Maybe 16" wheels as well. I'll know later today.

I got the gas tank off, now it needs to go somewhere and get boiled out and see what is left. I pulled the oil pan, as It seemed there was some gunk in the bottom. True, there was, although not as bad as I expected. All rods are tight, all cam lobes are intact. No unexplained material in the bottom of the pan at first glance. I'll sift it tomorrow to look for shavings, etc. Now comes the big question - Why did this truck get parked? I've found no reason yet for that to happen. Motor seems tight, front end is tight, all systems look like they were working. My guess is, the owner just got old, it was put in the barn, he lingered and it stayed. For 30 years or so? Time will tell. All the new parts are here or on the way for next week. All brake cylinders, shoes, seals, hoses, fuel pump, carb kit, belt, battery - it'll be a new truck! I'll probably start replacing brake lines tomorrow, too. I'm gonna drive this thing! Oh, I started posting pictures at: http://www.geocities.com/rainbow_chaser.geo/48_dodge/48dodge.html

I once had an f-100 back in the 70's. Put some tall 7-50, I think by 15 LT tires on it and it geared it considerably. Stood several inches taller than stock. Guess I need to go to the tire store and see what they make today. I'm guessing this thing would pull stumps with the stock tires. I can only imagine how it's going to be with smaller tires.

I'm a bit nervous about a sawsall. They make sparks, and the gas is in the area. I'm not sure you could light it with a match, as bad as it is, but I don't want to chance it.

They are 15" and I would guess they've been that way since day one. At least for the last 40 years. All 5, with what appear to be stock hubcaps. Is this to be expected?

Well, the gas tank is drained, it's the worst gas I ever took out of anything. Transmission is drained. Well, it drained after I took off the pto cover and squished out all the thick sludge. Insides look fine, but with an inch of sediment, it sure needed some cleaning. I suspect the pan needs cleaned out, too, so it'll come off. The two front tank mounting bolts had the nuts break loose from the crossmember, so this is going to be fun. No torch, no grinding, no sparks, but cut bolts. Hmmm.... I'm going to have to study this a bit. But, I got new hoses, belt, wheel cylinders,seals, shoes, master cylinder, fuel line, fuel pump, carb kit, strainers for the sediment bowls ... I think that is close. Drums are in the shop for turning, Sure wish the gas tank was on the ground. Question - what size tires are you guys running on these? 15" wheels, it has 775 15, but not sure what is right for it.

I started into the '48 b1b today, got the brakes stripped, hoses, belts, all that and heading for town for all new, along with a carb kit and fuel pump rebuild kit. I drained the gas tank, but the drain plug is strange. It takes a 1/2" socket drive and began to loosen, but seems to just turn and won't tighten or loosen farther. I'm assuming the plug goes into a fitting attached to the tank on the inside, and that fitting has pulled loose? Later today I'll drop the tank, but I'm curious what I'm dealing with. It would seem I'll end up opening the tank to repair this. Any thoughts? Some good news and some bad. It's obvious I'll need all new brake lines, both rubber and steel. But, the engine still had antifreeze in it, as did the heater. The oil came out clean with nothing else in it. Front end parts are all tight. steering box feels new. Thanks, Gene G. Central Mo.

At one time I had the contact information on an insurance company, I believe located in Florida, that specialized in antique and classics trucks. Their rates were good and they'd cover you even if you were pulling a trailer, unlike Hagerty. My hard drive died some time ago and I lost the contact information for them. I'd bet several on this group use them. Would anyone be able to get me in touch with them? And, if there are other good choices to insure our trucks that allow pulling trailers, etc, please let me know. Thanks

I think on my '47 they were the same, but on this '48 I can't find a leading 8 on the frame. Is the normal?

I got all the numbers off my "new" 48 truck. body 82079537 frame 2079537 1948, they match Engine t142-50456 consistant with 1948, most likely original Now to aquire a title! Gene G.

No question, I'll take the floor. Nothing under the seat is rusted through, but the floor in front of the seat and the two (I think there are two) bolt in pieces are pretty bad. I'll take as many of those pieces as you are willing to part with. You can email me at austin.sailor at yahoo.com. I figured I'd be fabricating the main floor and spending a lot of epay time looking for the others. I had to fix the floor on my 47, here is that fun: http://www.geocities.com/rainbow_chaser.geo/47_dodge/page8.html Thanks very much.

I got a few minutes to go out and look at it just now, after dark. Odometer shows 65,XXX miles, looks to be original. Lined up perfectly, doesn't appear to be messed with. All front end parts are tight as new. Gas tank looks to be fine from first glance, but it'll take a closer inspection to know for sure. I'll most likely pull it off and clean it out. The attached picture is interesting. In Missouri it used to be required that all trucks, any size, had the owners name, town and weight it was licensed for marked on both sides. They haven't enforced this in years, and I haven't heard of a 10,000 license since I started driving and owning trucks in the mid 60's. But - it's been even longer since I saw a telephone number like the one on this truck. Most trucks like this would have had farm or local tags and written on the side. Farm were cheaper and allowed you to use it for agricultural things, usually they'd make sure there was a bale of hay or something from the farm in it in case they were stopped. Local, which would also have to be written on the side, was cheaper than beyond local, but only let you go 25 miles from your location. They did enforce these things. This one had BL, which stands for beyond local, which means it could go anywhere, but cost quite a bit more than the other two. Enough Missouri history lessons. I expect I'll just clean up the old markings and leave them as is for effect. None of this matters today. I'm hoping to get it in the shop next week and start going through the brakes and fuel system. First, I have to put my wife's 75 Vette back together. I guess I now have motivation.

That is a wonderful offer. I guess what goes around does come around. Just Monday I mailed a fuel tank filler pipe for a 39-47 Dodge truck to a guy in California for the cost of the postage. I'll send you a pm with more info. Again, thanks for the offer As to the tube on the breather, it's just as someone said - it goes under the floor and is just open there. I'd noticed I had the fresh air duct to the heater - minus the tube, of course. First one I'd seen on one of these old vehicles. I wonder how common they were? Gene G. Central Mo.

and a couple more pictures

Well, the serial number comes up as a '48 B 1 B, on the data plate, there is only B1, then 108 as someone said. Hd to spend a little time to get a good reading of those numbers. Here are more pictures.

Somewhere I read a post that mentioned reference material to figure out the year of these trucks. I can't find it. Can someone direct me to it? My model number is B1. On the tag, after a space in the model box it follows with B10. In other words, the model box says "B1 B10" I haven't been able to read the SN yet, but in the next day or two I'll get it. Anyone know the year? Or how to find the reference material here? I'd like to get the info right when I apply for a title. Thanks for any help.

My plan is to make it run and show up just as it is. I lived for a time in a small upscale town in Texas where they harassed you over everything. I had a stack of warnings and summonses for lots of things, like leaving your garbage can out overnight, putting a for sale sign in the window of a truck, not leaving my porch light on, leaving a boat in my drive overnight when I washed it - it goes on and on. Very high and mighty. I think I'll haul it down and visit a friend and we'll spend a lot of time time touring the town. I think I'll visit city hall a number of times and slowly check out the mayor's house. (He was very happy when we moved) I can see lots of fun with this truck!

Finally bought a Pilothouse last night. Contrary to first impression, no serious dents, doors fit, open and close very nice, front end is like new, no rust through. After going through the brakes and fuel system, it should run as is. 5 window with a 4 speed in it. Gene G. Central Mo.

I have '42 2 door sedan I'll start on soon. low miles, under 30,000. No dents, only rust is floorboards. One thing I was surprised to find out about was buying parts. I figured that since they only built about 1/4 as many '42's as other years, there wouldn't be many parts. In reality, if you find a part on Ebay, you'll probably be the only bidder. And a surprising number of parts show up. I've aquired all new gauges, a new speedo in the original box and most of the little chrome bits and parts at reasonable prices. Usually I was the only bidder. Plans are to put in a new 5.7 hemi and make it a long distance driver.