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austinsailor

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Everything posted by austinsailor

  1. I thought the parts truck I brought home was a B1B, but when I went to remove a wheel tonight, I found out I was wrong. Bolt pattern is about 5", studs instead of bolts, 11" brakes on front instead of 10". Tried to get serial number from the frame, but 2 digits were illegible. 8XX17565. The two X's look like the bottom of a 6, 8 or 0. Using all combinations of those in the decoder shows only 8001765 as valid, but it would be a '52 M37, which this clearly is not. Guess I won't find what it is after all. Motor number is t142, which the chart says is '48 or '49 B1B. Guess it really doesn't matter, what works for parts works, what doesn't, doesn't no matter what it is.
  2. A friend loaned me his brake adjustment tool set. He's never used it and neither of us have any literature. Are there directions or pictures on the web? I'm not even sure it's all there.
  3. In all my years I neve heard of these. I was planning to put my yoke back on tonight but, with a big groove where the seal goes mayby I should look into this. Where would I get one, napa or? Will the original seal still fit?
  4. What I do is take light monofiliment fishing line, then tie the gasket to the pan, 3 spots on each side. Go through the hole of both, and on the outside of the pan and gasket. Use something like 6 lb test and it'll not affect anything, the gasket will just stay where you put it.
  5. your guy in by found 2 - only 2, but I only needed one. He called about a dozen sources he knew of before finding the right one. He can get one more if anyone needs one. Thanks, Gene
  6. I've located a Chrysler 265 ci 6 that I plan to eventually put in my b1b. Can anyone point me to a source of parts, like higher compression pistons and a hotter cam, or a better place to ask?
  7. Those are my u-joints, the Cleveland type. Is there a source for new ones?
  8. Yours will have a different type of u-joint which won't be hard to get apart. And, I've never had a yoke so hard to remove. My 40 dodge car was a simple project. You can probably get your parts off the shelf as well. They are probably still in the parts house books.
  9. This whole exercise was to replace the pinion seal. Getting the u-joint out required a lot of heat and hammering. That was nothing compared to getting the yoke off. I had to make a puller, then heat the base of the yoke glowing red, then still it was all I could do to slowly pull it off. Getting the old seal out was also as bad. Heck, I think I should have just taken my chances and added oil as needed! Oh, I heard back from the guy with the u-joint on Ebay, item #300349373879. It's only the cross - just what you see in the picture. No end caps, no rollers, and $45? Good news, though, I have all the new hoses on, antifreeze in, and let it run for a spell. Sounds very good. No leaks from the motor, radiator or heater, it just purrs. Still smokes a bit, but it hadn't been started in 30 or so years. Ran out of gas after about 20 minutes, got more and will run it for an hour or two tomorrow. When I started my big WKA after 35 years, it smoked for a bit, maybe an hour. Then it slowly got clean, and doesn't smoke at all now. I think the new high detergent oil slowly gets a lot of gunk out and as it cleans it out, the smoking gets to be less. At least that is my theory, and I'm hoping for the same results again. If not, I'll just swap motors from the parts truck, since it doesn't smoke now.
  10. Well, my u-joint was good, but I pretty well messed it up getting things apart to put a new seal in the pinion. As many of these trucks as are still around, I would have never guessed you couldn't just go to the local auto parts store and get one. I will most certainly spend more time trying to figure out how to get it apart next time. I do have the parts truck sitting there, and it is all good. So, I'll just spend more time figuring out how to get it apart and use one - or maybe the whole drive shaft - from it. I know now to watch for them. It took me a year to find the u-joints for my WKA-67, which is a rare truck, so surely I'll locate a couple spares as time goes on.
  11. Napa looked it up, 1-5900 shows to be a neapco Inc u- joint, cup dia 1.063. Mine measures about 1.145. Am I missing something.
  12. That might be the right one, but it won't help at the parts store. Anyone bought a new one at a parts house lately?
  13. I'm now at napa and they have no listing. Does anyone have a current part number? This is a Cleveland u- joint with the plates across the ends. Thanks for any help
  14. I pay about $100 for my 40 Dodge sedan with Hagrety. No trailer coverage, as we've mentioned, must be stored inside, only to shows, etc. Gulfway has no restrictions on trailers, except - she mentioned no travel trailers - the cost for them for my Dodge goes to $295 a year. Not worth it to me at this point, so I'm still watching for another way.
  15. The 25" Chrysler motor pretty much fills it, the 377 is 5" more yet, or 7" over the original. That would be quite a chore to fit. I have the 331 ci in my 47 3 ton, it is a lot bigger motor. If you do it, though, take lots of pictures!
  16. That is a great installation. Exactly what I was hoping to see. Does the bell housing from the smaller 23" truck motor just bolt to the Chrysler block? Do you recall if one or the other flywheel must be used? I would suspect you could use the flywheel and pressure plate from the Chrysler and the clutch plate from the truck if there was a difference, but I'm also guessing either would work. I have a 6 located for $200 that will probably need rebuilding. Should be a good start. Oh, I notice the sump is in the back on the Chrysler I have my eye on, and on the front of the B1B and your motor. Are there parts around to change that, or a kit, or am I going to be fabricating?
  17. I doubt I could ever find the parts to build a motor like Elmer's, but that would be the cat's meow, wouldn't it? Looks like a 52-54 Chrysler 265 six would be the goal. I'm watching for one.
  18. I'd like to eventually put a Chrysler engine in my B1B. I understand it's longer, but what about bolting to the bellhousing and the flywheel? I've spent a bit of time searching the archives and have been unable to locate anything. Has there been a thread on this subject? Anyone tried it? I would be shocked if the answer is no. In the future I'll rebuild something for this truck, and if I'm going to that expense, it might as well be a bigger Chrysler (or Desoto) six and get the boost in performance. A quick search of Ebay and Craigslist has turned up several reasonably prices candidates, so finding a motor should not be a challenge. Thanks for any thoughts.
  19. Read it all closely and make sure it works for what you are going to do. I'd had Hagerty for 4 or 5 years on my 1940 Dodge sedan when I wanted to pull an antique boat occasionally. In a call about something unrelated, the trailer was mentioned. She said my insurance would be void. I told her I'd read the policy and it wasn't mentioned there, how could they do that? She said in the original application, it asked if you were going to pull a trailer. If you'd answered yes, they wouldn't have written it. If you answered no and later did, it was a false statement on the application and the policy would be void from day 1. You don't want to find these things out when it becomes important.
  20. It was Gulfway I was thinking of. I just got my insurance card with them. Pretty painless and reasonable to deal with. Unlike Hagerty, there are few limitations with what you can do with your vehicle, except no commercial use. I can pull a trailer (I'd like to pull one of my antique boats to meets and cruise ins) and no mileage limitations. Cost me $195 a year. Now my paperwork is off for the title.
  21. He was chuckling as he said it, I think he just enjoys being old time, just like his parts.
  22. Well, I started out by finding the last of my wheel cylinders came in. Went and picked up the newly turned brake drums. Got home to find the floorboards Jeff (JJ's 1948) sent me - Thank you very much - that was extremely generous of you. Looked in the garage and found the box the postman left from Andy Bernbaum. New brake shoes and a fuel pump. Oh, I almost forgot - the machine shop I got the drums turned at is an old time place, the guy lives old car stuff. I mentioned I guessed I should try to find one of the adjusting tools for the Dodges. He said "Have I got a deal for you!" He walked back and pulled a box with the whole set of tools off the shelf where it had probably sat for 40 years. "Can I buy it" I asked. He thought a minute and said, no just use it as long as you need to. ""I guess I need to figure out how it works" Said I. He said he'd never used one, I'd have to figure it out. So, tonight, or soon, I'll have to be reading my manuals and may have more questions. But, I'm on a roll now! Another funny - may be an old story to some. When I ordered the brake shoes and fuel pump from Andy, he asked for my address. I told him I should be in his system, I'd bought from him many times before. "We don't have any system, give me your address" he said. Just the way it was when the trucks were built.
  23. I fires it up. Sounds good, no smoke, no strange noises. What a deal! He cut off the steering column to get the cab off, but the parts are there and I can weld it back together if I need another. Here are a couple more pictures. Anyone know what these springs might have come off of? Think these small 3 leaf springs would work, giving a good ride, but with no load?
  24. It's all there except cab, bed and hood. Runs, seems in good shape. He took the cab and hood with plans to put it on an s-10 chassis, bed was a junk flatbed. For $150, it was a heck of a deal.
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