austinsailor

There is someone else on the board who will ship his to you with a deposit. I'll let him jump in or PM you if he's inclined.

Idle screw has no effect, in or out. Vacuum leak it would idle fast with some adjustment, in my case, when it's slow enough to go on the idle circuit it just dies. Seems pretty certain no gas is being delivered through the idle circuit, not so simple as to why. if you could still buy a decent carb cleaner that might get it solved. But I won't go down that political rabbit hole! i can, and do, still drive it. I just have to pull the choke enough to run the rpms up when I stop.

When I was a teenager these were common at auctions and had no use, therefore kids could buy them cheap. 25 cents to a dollar or two. We'd run the heck out of them for no particular purpose. Put a 3-4 foot straight pipe on them, let them cackle. i wonder what happened to all of them?

Got my B1B running and driving well, except it won't idle. Have to keep it revved up a bit. I know the idle circuit in the carb is the problem, but I've had it apart a couple times and can find no problems. Pulled 4 other carbs off of other vehicles and all have set so long they'll all need a major rebuild before they do anyone any good. Not looking for help, just bitching! Oh, well, I'll eventually figure it out. In the meantime I'm getting in it and heading to the cafe for lunch.

A word of caution. If these are riveted shoes you can probably tell their shape. If bonded, I've found many that have set for years the lining will come loose from the metal. Rust between them, aging of the glue or whatever. also, you might think of adding your state to your profile. If you are anywhere near you could borrow my brake adjusting tools. I have no idea where you are, though. Right now you'd have to wait till a guy in Kansas City is finished, though.

Curious - how does it start if the pump doesn't run until there is oil pressure? Crank until you build some up?

Haven't had anything fixed in a shop lately, have you? They'll charge you for all of it. Been there, done that.

If the shoes were holding it, especially if it turns, it would have already given a big "bang" and be at least a little bit wobbly on the axle. When this happens, and it does for various reasons, you'll be pulling on the springs that mount the shoes. It'll pull out just a bit and then spring back, but at least be slightly loose on the axle shaft. ok, I'm on the side now and will just listen.

If the drum turns, as he mentions several posts back, shoes are not the issue.

In Lakeway, Texas a license plate light, or, rather, the lack of one, is used to extract $110 from each and every driver without one.

But it doesn't cost any more to make a battery cover or gasket the right size. If you are going to make it, why not make it the right size???

Only NOS parts won't save you! I just installed the new, NOS, still in the box headlight switch in my B1B. The circuit breaker on it was open, didn't work. Ended up taking the rusty one off the trash original switch to get going. The difference here was that the seller wouldn't know it was bad. The seller of that batter box cover, however, could easily see it was crap. Which of these breakers would you expect to be good?

Dale, I've changed from motor to body # before. State trooper came to me, verified the numbers, signed the form and it was done. No hassle. As to the 5 vs 6, with him signing the form you'll be changing to the body # and leaving that mess behind. I have no doubt, with him standing there looking at it, he'll see the problem and fix it. His signature on the form is the gold stamp to fix it. i would not take it to the HP inspection station. I've done that route with several things and although I always accomplished what I wanted, it was always a bit of a hassle. I think the lowest IQ troopers are stationed there. technically, it can be done by any police officer, city, state or county, but I was never able to get a local one to do it.

I'm going to bitch for a bit. It seems like at least half the parts I buy are crap. Either substandard, don't fit or other problems. Some can be used with mods, some either tossed as they come out of the box, or fail in shot order. New battery box cover for my B1B. Seems simple enough. What I got was a flat piece of sheet metal with 2 ribs rolled in it. No lip around it, no springs to hold it in place, isn't even trimmed to fit the opening. I have a bead roller, I could have done better. vent seal. "2 shorter than the vent. Why?? New gas pedal. - so poorly made, step down once and it bends. It just goes on, I could add dozens more. I'm sure everyone has similar problems. in fairness, my wiring harness from Rhode Island Wiring was exactly right in every aspect and well documented. The gas tank from Tanks, inc. worked well, although I wonder why they can't have a fill tube that requires no mods to the truck, since it is just a screw on fitting. ok, I'll calm down now.

Until about 71 there was no standard "VIN". Just various serial numbers. The serial numbers were the motor numbers in many places. A little searching on the web will undoubtedly turn up some history on this. I find it hard to believe they can't figure this out - do they think it's just a co incidence that the motor # matches the title? i've changed a couple from motor to body serial # as I registered them. I also still have 2 that are still under the motor #. good luck.

That was standard at that time. You are lucky - many changed the motor but not the paperwork. It was common to change the motor, then update the title. There is still a simple procedure in Mo. to do this, it was a form and $2 fee last time I checked. there is a chance the motor was changed and paperwork updated, so your motor may not match other numbers. I'm having trouble figuring out why you'd have a problem - maybe a young inspector who knows nothing? tell us what sort of problem it's causing you and there's a good chance one of us has already been through it.

I just bought dash light bulbs at NAPA an hour ago for my B1B.

Headlight? Taillight? Dash?

New glasses??

A friend of mine who used to own a garage and some wreckers frequently moved boxes like this when mechanics changed jobs. $80 or so on the back of a wrecker, old job to new job.

My 24 Dodge Brothers 100% stock.

I have a harbor freight 1/2" air impact, lasted a month. Got a sears electric 1/2" in 1974, still use it regularly.

You'll probably need some bedsides soon, too!

I understand that - I've sold a few things, and in most cases i've regretted it in the end.