austinsailor

48 and about half of 49 B1B half ton and maybe 3/4 and 1 ton, use a Cleveland U joint. This is the one with the plates on the outer part holding the cups in. They have been nearly impossible to find until recently when one of our preferred suppliers started supplying them. Great for them, I'm glad they tried, but they have problems. In general, these ujoints are hard to remove and install. The specific problem with these new ones is that the grease fitting is directly in the middle of the joint, pointing straight in the direction of the driveshaft. The 45 degree fitting that comes with it will screw in, but won't clear the shaft. Even if it fit, it's the wrong angle. I tried to fit a right angle fitting, but the tapered 1/8" pipe thread isn't tapped deep enough to thread in a normal fitting. The metal is so hard, you can't tap it deeper, which might have helped. at a cost of$100 each, if you buy 2 you are most of the way to buying a new driveshaft. $300 or so will buy a new custom one where I am. Find a yoke from a later transmission and differential, add a new driveshaft and you have an easy to work on, easy to find parts for solution. i got mine together, but can't grease it. I have a parts truck I'll pull yokes off of later, make a new driveshaft when I have time and replace this mess. Just an idea that might help someone.

Had my phone ready as I started it the first time. Notice, when I get the choke adjusted, how sweet it sounds. Here it is: https://youtu.be/VdkFXg0A_FU

Just did it. I found I had to remove the steering box from the frame to get clearance to get the brake pedal off. I suspect you could lower the back of the motor first, the slide it off, do the reverse when re installing. Being able to adjust the angle of the motor as you remove it will help as well. They make bars that go between the motor and hoist the can adjust this. Front needs to come up, back down as you pull it, then the reverse as it goes back.

How many quarts did it take to coat your truck? I'm going to order some tonight. I think this will be great for my B1B. Any thoughts on preparation? I'm trying to avoid the shiny, fake looking surface. I'd prefer it to look just as it does now, just not rust anymore, but I suspect no mater what I do it'll be somewhere in the middle. I like this idea much better than clear coating, because: 1. I'm allergic to these modern paints, they make me sick as a dog. 2. They have a fake, shiny look. 3. At least in some I've seen, they continue to rust underneath, raising bubbles of clear coat.

Never heard of Ovatrol. A quick read of their website sounds like you can either mix it with paint or apply it alone. my truck has a rough, rusted look which I'd like to keep. Can you add any information on this? thanks much.

Got to spend about half the day on it. Stripped both motors, ran parts through the engine washer (damn, I love that thing!) got the oil pickups and pan changed and swapped the pulleys. (Truck was wide, new motor was narrow.) All 4 bolts holding the manifolds together are broken. Pondered a bit over how to best fix that and it struck me - I have a parts truck that may have good set. I'll pull them tomorrow. Considered just putting on a set of cast Fenton headers I have, but then I'd be off building a new dual exhaust. It can get out of control if you let it. This was supposed to be a simple motor swap. Motor mount is shot - found a good one on a motor on the shelf. I knew there was a reason I've collected all this stuff! A friend with a machine shop gave me the gaskets I need. Thought I might have to wait on UPS. this 2 day project is already 2 days, probably take 2 more to finish.

It'll go as fast as I'd care to go! 50 is about it now, I'm sure 70 will be easily attainable, but 60 is probably my comfort level.

Looked at the 52 dodge 230 that came out of a truck. It has the truck linkage, so it most likely did live in a truck last. But - it still has the front sump si I don't know how it worked. Bottom line decision, is, I'll use the new 218. I'll save the 265 for my 40 dodge car, most likely. Any of them have to have the pan pulled and pickup and pan changed. If the 52 dodge 230 had not needed that I might have gone with the somewhat unkown motor. I do have an NOS set of 3.56 ring and pinion gears I'll probably put in so It'll cruise a little easier. That will be a seperate project later. I'll have to say, removing everything took maybe 3-4 times as long as I expected. Everything was much more difficult to remove than I expected. Even things like the pin in the brake linkage was a bear. Had to get the torch out to get it out. Of course, I had to fix the torch hose end, everything was difficult. The darned Cleveland ujoint, which I've had before, was also a bear. Just a darned pain in the butt all around. Couldn't get the brake pedal out wihtout removing the steering column. It just goes on.

I have a 49 3/4 ton frame out back. I should check it. Hadn't thought about that. Thanks.

Well, thought I would get farther tonight, but rusty bolts removing the front slowed me down. It also occurred to me that whatever choice I make I'll have to switch pans and oil pickup going from car to truck. Maybe not the one that came out of the 57 dodge panel, though. It's in my loft and I haven't checked it yet. I also found that the bracket that holds the radiator frame, therefore the whole front end, is broken and nearly falling off! Since riviting it back isn't an option, I think I'll weld it to the frame in it's correct position.

I need to make a motor decision about my 48 B1B. I'll bet you guys have some thoughts. Bought this thing maybe 5 years ago, at that time the engine had 35 lbs of compression. I soaked things, finally got it started and drove it occassionally until about 18 months ago. A bit finicky to start, but did ok and was pretty reliable. I've thought about changing motors before, but today I tried to start it again after it sitting for these 18 months. Started by pulling it, but haven't gotten it to start yet with the starter. Fresh gas and a good tuneup would probably get it going again, but it's time. Did a compression check shortly after shutting it off. 5 at 45 lbs, 1 at 35 lbs. It's time. I'm going out and pulling the motor tonight, but I haven't decided what to put in. I have 4 choices, give me thoughts. 51 Plymouth 218 motor, fresh overhaul, never started. Basically a new long block. 52 Dodge car 230 motor. Came out of a 57 Dodge panel truck, they were driving it, wanted a v8. They tried to tell me it was the original motor, but they had no idea. Supposed to be running fine when removed. 265 Chrysler. Taken out of a hot rod when the shop was going to put in a big v8. Was running and driving fine when removed. Now, a question on this one. It appears I can move the radiator forward easily. I know on the cars you must cut a chunk out of the frame for the pulleys, but I don't see a problem in the b1b. It looks like moving the radiator, and welding tabs on the motor mounts might get it. Not sure about putting the truck front mount on the block yet, I need to get it down and study it. 4th motor is still an unknown I'm still trying to remember where it came from. Car motor with tranny still attached, but it baffles me where I got it. Any thoughts would be appreciated. For now, I'm off to the shop to yank the old one out.

I guess straight. Was installed in a 48 pickup, looked factory. Should fit mine when I remove the delete plate.

Just left a great visit at Brian's junknyard, American Canyon, California. Hundreds of 40's and 50's cars and trucks. Some 60's. Spent about 5 hours with him and his wife. Absolutely delightful. And - I finally found spare wheels for my 1924 Dodge Brothers roadster. He has quite a few Dodge trucks from 40 into the 50's.

Looking at a motor that doesn't show up in the charts. t786, what is that?

Well, I just bought it. Factory radio?

That was probably a 413 V8, which was common in junky motor homes.

I was hoping to find a 413, didn't yet. Just for what it's worth, Brian has 2 - 377 ci flatheads, wants $1500 each. I have 2 - 331 engines, so I'll pass.

Will be in the area tomorrow night (Wednesday) and probably see him Thursday or friday. i'm bringing a Crosley farm-o-road to a guy in Sacramento, then bum around a bit on the way back to Missouri. probably go south to I-10 and visit a friend or two in West texas, then head north. Any interesting things to see?

Well, I know trucks. But yes, I believe that is him. thanks a lot. i should post pictures after I visit!

I'm replying to my own post only because I forgot to click the "notify me of replies" button.

there is a junkyard about 60 miles from Sacramento that has a lot of old Mopar's, including a truck he still uses with a 413 flat head motor. I talked to him recently and am on the way to California, planning to visit. Now i can't find my contact info! Can someone help me with the name or phone #? I know it's been mentioned here before. thanks!

He used components from other cars, i would guess salvaged cars. It would be hard to set up a factory using junk cars as your art shop source. And that Is if the big guys didn't sue you!

Almost back to Missouri. What a pleasant visit! Plymothy has quite a collection from classics to bordering antique. It's obvious from his projects he's quite a craftsman. And, although he didn't say as much, it appears he enjoys the building more than the driving. I hope to be invited for another tour. I think the best way would be to trailer something like my 24 Dodge Brothers roadster to somewhere in the area and wheel into his drive in it. Thanks for the hospitality, Tim. If you get to central Missouri on a car chase please drop in.

No insurance, except liability. Cost, even if you can get it, is outrageous.

I've been asked by several people if the devastation was as bad as portrayed in the news. it's much worse. There is no way they can show how bad it was. Block after block, just torn to hell. 1000 boats sunk or beat to hell like mine. And that is from insurance reports. Many, like mine, had no insurance.