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joecoozie last won the day on June 3

joecoozie had the most liked content!

About joecoozie

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    1949 Plymouth Woodue


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  1. Have the person in the car pump the brakes several times and then hold the pedal down. Open the bleeder and have the person slowly push the pedal to the floor and hold it there. Close the bleeder and repeat the process until there is no air in the line(s). Also, make sure the master cylinder is refilled each time so as not to introduce more air into the lines. Hope this helps and if I have stated anything you already knew I apologize.
  2. What trim pieces do you need?
  3. It is just pried off. I believe there are "slots" along the edge where you can stick a screwdriver in and pry it off.
  4. You do not have to do anything to the parking brake. The threaded bolts stay in palace when the nuts are removed. Try Bernbaums or Kanters for the u-joints. There are probably others that have them, too.
  5. The only way to make 100% sure they will fit is to go by the part number(s) on the tail light bezels and check them in a parts manual. I do not have a parts manual for your car but maybe someone here can help.
  6. I have one of these and I used it for a short time. I have one of those dome tents (Rhino-Shelter) and I put the car bubble inside the tent and drove the car onto the bubble. Zipped it closed and plugged in the fan. It kept the car high and dry and prevented mice, dirt, etc from getting to the car. I used it in the winter, summer...didn't matter. The good thing about these is that there is a constant flow of fresh air that doesn't allow moisture to linger inside the bubble. I still have mine but I am no longer using it right now. My brother has one, too, and he isn't using his either. I liked it for its intended purpose. They do sell one for outdoor storage, too
  7. Is it still 6 volts or 12 volts? You can probably get a new 6 volt coil at NAPA - I saw them listed. I would also replace the points and condenser because if the points were closed at that time they are more than likely burnt. Replace the condenser, too, to be on the safe side.
  8. Here are a few more pics Joe
  9. As stated before, one end of the light (typically the end that has the alligator clip) gets attached to a good ground. i.e. battery ground (which, if your car has the original 6 volt system would be the positive post on the battery) or any clean metal on the car. The other end of the light then gets "touched" to whatever you are trying to check for current flow. For a quick test,connect the clip end to the grounded post of the battery (follow the battery cable and it should be connected to the engine block to verify that is the ground post) and then touch the other battery post with the probe end of the test light. It should light up. If you have the test light clip end attached to the "hot" side of the battery then no matter where you touch the probe end to metal it will light up. All that is doing is completing the circuit for the battery.
  10. Looks good. How long have you been restoring your car? Mine needs some metal work - rockers, floor pan(s) and some other repairs underneath but I am not going to concern myself with those issues right now. Did you need to do any rust repair on yours and if so where did you get the parts, such as floor pans, rockers, etc?
  11. Josh, I checked under the hood of my car. There is a black undercoating sprayed on it I suppose to deaden the noise levels. This looks to be factory applied. I did notice that towards the front section of the hood there was no undercoating and the color of the hood was NOT painted the color of the car. Instead it was the blue/gray color of all of the metal parts before they were painted. If you have seen NOS fenders you will know what color I am talking about
  12. Josh, I have attached a few pictures of my 49 Woody. I won it in an online auction and had it delivered to me on May 1st. It needs some work but I like it (and so does everyone else) the way it is. I am located in Northeast Penna. Hard to say about the seat frame color. I have looked at pictures and I have seen the dark brown and the tan like mine. It appears to me that the darker color(s) had the dark seat frame color. Also, the 49 Woody was only offered in 3 colors. I know for certain 2 of them but not sure of the 3rd. There is an article somewhere that I read it. #1 - Malibu Brown #2 - Plymouth Cream #3 - I believe Trinidad Brown.
  13. Hi, I just purchased a 1949 Plymouth Woody that is mostly original. I would have to look under the hood to see what color it is painted. My car is the tan color and the seat frames are painted tan and are original - scratches and all. I don't know if the frames of the seats were painted to match the color of the exterior or not from the factory. I only have my car to go by. Joe
  14. Andydodge is correct in his statement about Woodies being built initially for commercial use. Then the Model A wagons came about and that changed everything. They became increasingly more expensive to build because of the use of wood and the amount of manual labor that was involved in the fit/finish/assembly of the body to the chassis. Essentially, a woodie was a hand-built car and what really became the main problem to buyers/owners was the semi-annual upkeep of the wood. Most owners did not keep up with sanding/varnishing because it was a tedious and annoying aspect of Woodie ownership. So, when Plymouth introduced the 1949 All-steel Suburban wagon that was the final nail in the coffin of Woodies. Also, if any of the wood was damaged (accident, rot, etc) it was much more labor intensive to repair the wood (and more expensive) than if it were sheetmetal. Also, Woodies were usually the most expensive car at the dealership(s) when new.
  15. Thanks. So you were the competition, eh? Just kidding. Were you able to buy any of the other cars? I got the 49 Plymouth delivered to me on Tuesday morning , and as I bought it sight unseen (I was 1100 miles away from where the car was), I was more than happy with it as we unloaded it from the trailer. I will continue to update as I get the time.
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