TodFitch

Seems like some cars were fitted with disposable canisters and other fitted with containers that take a disposable element. A picture of a early 1930s version of the disposable canister type can be seen at http://www.ply33.com/Backmatter/EngineColor The later ones were different color and had a MoPar label. The disposable canister type is no longer manufactured but you can still get them from eBay and at some swap meets. For various manufacturer part number to look for see: http://www.ply33.com/Parts/group10#861028 There were a number of different oil filter housings that take disposable elements. Those elements are still available at your local auto supply but you should probably take an old one to match up. Seems like lots of people find theirs need a NAPA 1080.

Deep questions Don. When you find out you can post the results. Assuming that I don't have you on my ignore list. Actually, I did use the ignore list once when I found that posts from one individual got my blood pressure too high and tempted me into immediate and ill thought out response posts. After a month or two when the irritation wore off I cleared the list.

1928-33 Master parts book shows 11 short studs and 2 long studs for the PC and PD. 1934 parts book shows 2 long studs also. And the 1936-48 parts book show long and short studs and no bolts but the count on those don't add up to 13 so I don't know what the story is there. I don't see any photos with this in the 1936-42 service manual, but in the 1948-54 service manual on page 146 (figure 22) it appears to show a long stud.

I am a little surprised we are talking about bolts here. I guess I have to look at the parts book for your "new" 1940s engines. On my "old" 1930s engine the manifolds are attached to the block with studs and brass nuts. If it is done that way then anti-seize compound is not needed as the brass nuts will come off no matter what (might be scrap when they come off but they do come off).

Sounds like you have see the semi-mythical "day star" that those of use who work in Silicon Valley "start ups" have heard rumor of. There were a variety of oil filter housings that take different inserts, so the best bet would be to take your old insert to your favorite local "better auto supply store" and match it up. If your car was equipped with the throw-away canister, then you should look into getting a housing type with replaceable inserts. They stopped making those disposable canisters about 5 years ago, so eBay, swap meets or antique auto specialty houses are your choice for those. What I know about oil filters for old Plymouths is summarized at: http://www.ply33.com/Parts/group10#10-C

Or a video version at http://www.archive.org/details/GreatNew1952

"Middle grade" in your Plymouth? Have you hopped it up with a shaved head and racing cam? Seems like 87 octane regular unleaded ought to be more than good enough.

Mildly interesting that the sum of the digits for all multiples of 9 in the range 09, 18, 27,...,81,90 is 9. Had not noticed that before.

What he wrote. Also: http://www.ply33.com/Repair/torque

My 1933 uses Chrysler part 391462 versus the Chrysler part 679023 used on the P15. So if I could remember the details I could tell you about FelPro F5360C but that won't tell you what you wanted to know about the FelPro 60860 or 12-1162 gaskets.

My notes show that 60146 is an old FelPro number and that the newer number for that same gasket is FelPro 12-1162. Here are my notes: http://www.ply33.com/Parts/group11#11-06-08 Please let me know if I am wrong so I can correct the information. Thanks!

Neat link, but why is your link for "auto shows" source from Life when "auto" brings up some other fascinating pictures. http://images.google.com/hosted/life/f?q=auto+source:life&imgurl=c5df8c61eb7379fe http://images.google.com/hosted/life/l?imgurl=c491e44f760b965c&q=auto+source:life&usg=__5_V5j3TdbPDTxz8UJREaiHqnf1A=&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dauto%2Bsource:life%26start%3D80%26ndsp%3D20%26hl%3Den%26safe%3Dactive%26sa%3DN

I've heard that over 100 years ago the more common phrase was "Happy Christmas and Merry New Year". An item the might support that is the ending of "The Night Before Christmas": http://www.christmas-tree.com/stories/nightbeforechristmas.html And it makes sense: Christmas not supposed to be a wild and merry party time while the New Year, especially New Year's Eve, is. So did it change from "happy Christmas" to "merry Christmas"? And if so, why?

Sorry I did not get to measuring the spacer. I found when I went out to measure that the last person that borrowed it has not returned it yet. Time for a phone call or two...

I vaguely recollect 1/8" pipe thread. But please don't get too mad if I am wrong...

Don't worry about the head (display unit) on the replacement gauge. What is important is the ether in the sensing bulb. I can't say that I ever paid attention to the purported range of temperatures on the donor gauge as all I was after was the bulb and capillary tubing.

If no one gets to it first, I will get out to the garage and measure mine this evening for you.

In the early 1930s for cars, and I think into the 40s for trucks, it was pretty common to have only one door with a key lock. And it was usually the passenger side. I know a fellow with a late 40s Chevy truck and it is setup the same way with a single key lock on the passenger side. However all the doors should have inside locks. On MoPar for years locking from the inside is accomplished by moving the door lever in the opposite direction needed to open the door. At least it works that way in my 1933 Plymouth and it worked that way in the 1963 Dodge D200 I once had so I assume it was the same for most of the years in between. (The 63 Plymouth wagon we had when I learned to drive had push buttons for the inside locks, so cars may have changed at some time earlier than trucks.) Anyway, I think having only one key lock was to save money. And I think they used safety as the reason to put it on the passenger side (to encourage you to get in and out of the car from the curb side instead of the traffic side). If you watch the old Bogart detective movies you will often seen him sliding across the front seat to get out of the car on the passenger side...

Nice car. I hope it has a good home now. However there were some liberties with the story. The first that caught my eye was: Television was commercially introduced in 1939 and they have found graffiti in the ruins of Pompeii and the word graffiti is from the mid-1800s. So both those words had meaning in 1940.

DOT3 would be the equivalent of the original. There are lots of opinions on whether that is the best choice nowadays for a car that is driven like most 50+ year old collectible cars. But, barring a total overhaul of the brake system (including new tubing and hoses), I think the consensus is to go with DOT3.

I understand that driving during winter thing you guys are complaining about can be easily dealt with by putting some extra weight on the front wheels:

http://www.ply33.com/Repair/tempgauge

http://www.freep.com/article/20081205/COL14/812050400/?imw=Y

I am using a Goodyear Hi-Miler 22494 on my 1933 (which I believe uses the same belt as yours). See: http://www.ply33.com/Parts/group7#600793 If you take the old one in to a decent hardware store, they should be able to match you up. Of course good hardware stores are being put out of business by the big box "home centers", so you might have a bit of a search for a decent store.