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TodFitch

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Everything posted by TodFitch

  1. Concur 100% The original design has the wire mesh inside the oil filler cap as an air filter for air into the crankcase. Vacuum to pull air in provided by the road draft tube on the opposite side rear of the engine. And the Chrysler solution for positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) as used on military trucks in the 1940s was to run replace the road draft tube with a line to the intake manifold with a PCV valve in the line. You can still get that setup from places that cater to the military power wagon crowd. Or you can roll your own using a modern PCV valve for an engine with similar displacement and some fitting created from parts purchased at your local hardware store.
  2. Best option is to have your current water pump rebuilt. I have used Arthur Gould a couple of times but there are other vendors. The internals of the 1933/34 pump are the same as the later 1930s pumps and vintage rebuild kits are still fairly available so if you have the right tools and skills you can rebuild it yourself. At a minimum you will need a press but having a lathe or appropriate reamers may also be required. The shape of the water pump body is different between 1933/34 and later pumps so if you put a 33 backing plate on a later pump you will have some large gaps. But you can make a new custom backing plate to adapt a later water pump to the 33/34 block. The good news is the bolt pattern is the same so with a custom backing plate the newer pump will mount correctly. edit: My solution is to have two water pumps. A rebuilt one on the shelf and the one on the car. If/when the pump fails, I swap in the one on the shelf then get the failed one rebuilt and put that on the shelf.
  3. Ahh. I can believe that a 1935 and up transmissions that have synchronizers could probably use that. The 1933 & 34 transmissions have sliding dog clutches with no synchronization so you have to double clutch them and it is way easier to do that if the gear lubricant provides a bit more drag.
  4. I assume the recommendations for your '33 Dodge with freewheeling is the same as for my '33 Plymouth with freewheeling. The lubrication chart says the capacity of the transmission is 2 3/4 pints or 1.3 liters. For summer the 1933 Plymouth Deluxe 6 Instruction Book calls for “Free wheeling lubricant No. 110”. For winter it calls for “Free wheeling lubricant No 90”. I have never found a description of what made “free wheeling lubricant” different from other gear lubricants but the numbers seem to match that of other gear lubricants. Since there are no synchronizers or other yellow metal parts in the transmission (or rear end), pretty much any gear lubricant is compatible with the materials. The question is what weight to use. From personal experience, running SAE 90 will result in shifting issues, at least when driving in spring, summer and fall conditions. The gears just keep spinning too much making it difficult to shift without grinding. And I have not been able to find SAE 110 gear lubricant. But my local hardware and automotive stores usually have some heavier gear lubricants. I have been running StaLube SAE 140 multipurpose gear lubricant in my rear end and transmission for years with no issues. I am pretty sure the last batch I bought was from a hardware store rather than an auto supply store. I am curious where you saw a recommendation for MT90 fluid for the transmission. That appears to be a 75W90 weight which I think will be way to light.
  5. The bolt and nut part numbers look to be special for the application. But the lock washer part number 120383 is just a standard lock washer. See: https://www.ply33.com/Parts/group18#120383
  6. I don’t have an extra and my car came with Delco-Remy electrical rather than AutoLite so it might be different, but when I get home I can take a photo of the fitting on my car. Basically a hollow brass piece encased in Bakelite, threaded at the bottom. There is a bit at the tip that is tapered a bit. It should be possible to make a suitable replacement from a brass screw. If you wanted to get fancy you could probably make a mold and use epoxy to make it fancy and look more like an original. If I don’t post a photo by late next week please remind me.
  7. I am away from my reference material so I can’t refresh my memory, but I think the parts book for my vintage Plymouth calls it a dust seal. So I am going to go with @Sniper and say it is to keep road crud out.
  8. Gentle reminder: Do not request or offer parts in the general forum.
  9. No expert here, but the part numbers for the crank bearings, both main and rod, changed between the 201 and the later Plymouth 218. So I agree with @Plymouthy Adams, check the crank journal sizes carefully. But back in the 201 era for Plymouth the equivalent Dodge engine was a 217/218. It may be easier to upgrade the 201 Plymouth engine to the era equivalent 217 Dodge.
  10. I don't know about the 1941 era cars, but the earlier Plymouths had nickel plated interior brightwork while the exterior was chrome. That seems to be fairly standard for a lot of manufacturers in that era.
  11. I am not sure about the 1950 cars but the earlier ones have ball studs on the floorboard and the gas pedal just presses on. Replacement gas pedals are available from the usual old Mopar parts suppliers.
  12. My 1974 vintage Pictorial History of Chrysler Corporation Cars shows: 1950 models as S14-1 (DeSoto Deluxe) or S14-2 (DeSoto Custom). 1951 models as either S15-1 (DeSoto Deluxe) or S15-2 (DeSoto Custom). 1952 models as S15-1 (DeSoto Deluxe), S15-2 (DeSoto Custom) or S17 (DeSoto Firedome Eight). 1953 models as S18 (DeSoto Powermaster) or S16 (DeSoto Firedome).
  13. They used different schemes at different times. Ignoring export versions: Q is 1928 U is 1929 30-U is 1930 PA is 1931 PB is 1932 PC & PD are 1933 PE, PF & PG are 1934 PJ is 1935 P1 & P2 are 1936 P3 & P4 are 1937 P5 & P6 are 1938 . . .
  14. Chrysler was engineering driven and I think the branding was done at the end of the cycle. In the meantime they needed a way to describe and document the project being developed. So all the drawings and thus the later parts books all used the engineering codes for the cars rather than the marketing name. And they kept it up in some respects until at least the 1980s as I recall that the service manual used engineering codes for the various cars lines. Heck, I noticed that in the service manual for the 1992 Jeep I once had too. That probably wasn't to out of line with general industry standards. Boeing used fancy names for their commercial aircraft, things like "Stratocruiser". But they hadn't come up with a name they liked when they started flying the prototype for design/project 707 so they just turned that into the marketing name.
  15. There was a phase over to that scheme that took a year or two. In 1931 Plymouth switched to using a “P” for the first letter but used ascending letters instead of numbers (PA, PB, PC, etc.). They switched to using ascending numbers in 1936 and often used more than one number per model year. For example, in 1936 the P1 was the low trim car while P2 was the Deluxe.
  16. They are the engineering codes for the cars. First letter indicates the make as @maok pointed out.
  17. I am going to side with motoMark with calling that bolt on seal a rope seal. At least that is what I have called it and what the people I spoke with called it back in the 1970s when I first replaced mine. And to get the upper seal replaced back then I had to remove the flywheel. Even then it was not easy to get it on tight enough while lying on my back in the driveway. They really should be installed on the block and then properly rolled into place with some round stock before the crank is set in. Basically, a field repair with the engine in the car is unlikely to result in a good job compared to installing it when the engine is being properly rebuilt off the car. But I will have to point out to motoMark that the 4164 seal in Sniper's first photo is supposed to be a direct replacement for the old rope seal. Even if you are not going to replace the upper half I suspect using that more modern seal would be more likely to slow the leak. And if you decide to remove the flywheel to replace the upper half it will be a lot easier to get it relatively leak free using the neoprene seal than the old rope one.
  18. Got the original Chrysler part number for the rear main seal parts or service kit? The kept a lot of designs for a lot of years. If your seal is the same as the 1930s engines then there might be a retrofit neoprene that would work.
  19. I believe that Best Gaskets supplies a neoprene seal designed to replace the rope seals on the motors that only ever had rope seals. If I ever need to dig into that on my car again I will investigate that possibility.
  20. I suspect that they were die cut. The fellow that had a shop behind the one my Mom owned did lots of screen printing and die cutting. If I recall correctly, he used a plywood board that he somehow embedded thin strips of metal to make shaped blades. Those were put into a press that looked a lot like an older letterpress printing machine. Drop a piece of cardboard into the holders on the machine, cycle it so the blade(s) on the plywood tool were pressed into the cardboard and Bob’s your uncle, the whole piece was cut into the final shape in one operation.
  21. Yes. I just assumed the 51 Plymouth in his profile but it would be nice to have that confirmed.
  22. Last I check, which I admit was quite some time ago, Best Gaskets was making fully rebuild kits for our engines and, I am pretty sure, they also made the rear main seal available separately. At that time they would not sell to the retail but it isn't too hard to find an auto supplier that carries Best Gasket products. Fuel pump gasket is easy (there aren’t that many different mounting flanges). But that one is also trivial to make from some gasket stock from your local auto supply. See my parts cross reference at https://www.ply33.com/Parts/group9#9-11-01 and the Best Gasket website still shows that their 4162 rope seal kit is in their system. Their engine rebuild set for your era also shows a fuel pump gasket with a part number of 3043 but I don't know if you can get that separately. Their fancy pop up results don't give me a link to the specific items so you will have to look them up for yourself. They have a list of vendors on a page on their website too.
  23. There are some “smart” chargers that won’t start to charge if the battery voltage is too low. I don’t know if the Battery Tender brand is in that category or not.
  24. When they were making the rules Coker Tire successfully lobbied to have an exception on the date code rule for collector car tires. So some collector car tires have a date code but not all do. I didn’t believe that when I first heard it so I went searching on the government website for the actual rules and found the exception. Then I went looking for the explanation of how the rules were determined and found that Coker was the one behind it. Been a while so I don’t have the links but that information is probably still someplace on a government website.
  25. That 6-52-11 number looks like a "part type code" rather than a part number. I am away from my reference materials and, for that matter, don’t have a Dodge parts book to look up the part number. If you have the parts book, and if it is like the Plymouth equivalent, you will see some parts illustrations along the top then the "part type code" as in the heading for each column. You look down the column to your vehicle and that is where you will find the part number. For lots of miscellaneous small parts I have had good luck using the original Chrysler part number in places like Rock Auto and Napa Online to find the modern equivalent.
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