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TodFitch

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Everything posted by TodFitch

  1. I see the smiley so maybe this is a joke. . . But assuming it isn’t, the TrippLite company made accessory driving lights back in the day. The high end lights, very much in demand nowadays, are the senior line of lights. Side story: Back in the 1990s I was researching some uninterruptible power supplies (UPS) for work and one of the potential models was made by TrippLite but I had a question I could not answer from their literature so I called the company. The one of the first questions I was asked was how I'd heard about their company/product. I said that I once had a set of TrippLites on my antique car. The sales person had never heard that the company once made those. For what it is worth, they are still in business making power equipment for computer centers.
  2. Gentle reminder: Any offer or request for parts should be done via PM or in the classified ad section.
  3. The Operators Manual (i.e. owner's manual) for my 1933 PD has a recipe for making brake fluid. They warn to only to use the home made stuff in an emergency and then get the system flushed and refilled with approved Chrysler brake fluid as soon as possible as there will be acids that will damage the brake system over time. Remember that back in 1933 most cars still had mechanical brakes and so the supply stores in smaller or rural locations might not stock brake fluid so if you were out in the middle of nowhere and needed brake fluid you could make some from things available from the local pharmacy. I don't know about modern automotive paint that uses hardeners, but for old fashioned nitrocellulose, nitrocellulose, alkyd, and acrylic paints DOT 3 brake fluid is a very quick and effective paint remover.
  4. Silicon brake fluid can easily get bubbles in it if not handled properly. Simply being rough when pouring can get small bubbles into it. Once in, they are very hard to get out. That might be an issue for you. Another that can result in very poor braking is if the shoes haven’t been arced to fit the drums. This will result in only a small portion of each shoe making contact with the drum so you will have little braking regardless of the pedal pressure. Any way, if you are going to change type of brake fluid, you will need to get all the old out. To do that you will need to disassemble everything. Some recommend using alcohol to flush the system but I have read that the alcohol can damage things. In my case I also replaced all the hoses and tubing. You may get by with blowing them out with compressed air. If I were you, I would verify that the shoes are arced properly and get a pressure bleeding tool and rebleed using DOT5 being very careful to avoid getting tiny air bubbles in the fluid.
  5. Regarding the dash, not sure about 1939 but in the early 1930s wood grained was on the deluxe models while the standard or business models had paint. In 1933 the standard (PCXX) the paint was black. It is my understanding that the convertibles always had paint.
  6. It is my understanding in that era they painted the whole power plant assembly (engine, bell housing, flywheel cover & transmission) as a single assembly so they should all be the same color.
  7. I assume you are looking for the “Brake Flexible Hose Gasket”, part type code 5-62-07. Which for your truck is likely to be Chrysler part 1123332 which should be available in your local auto supply store. Follow the links to get part numbers they can cross to their system. Thinking about it, there is a reasonable chance that a brake and friction supply that was able to reline your shoes will also carry that type of part.
  8. For the Plymouths old enough to have used Delco-Remy, the Chrysler part number is 41928. Apparently the later P15s also used that number. Other than the really late P15 listing, later AutoLite distributors used Chrysler part 640715. I don't have a cross for the 1261004 or 640715 numbers but that early 41928 part number is in the lookup at Vintage Power Wagons and they are selling an O-ring (rather than cork gasket): https://www.vintagepowerwagons.com/products/new-distributor-to-engine-block-rubber-gasket-o-ring-cc41928-n
  9. Until the early 1930s it was common practice for the instruments to be in the center of the dashboard. 1934 was the first year that Plymouth had the gauges in front of the driver. That doesn’t explain why they reverted in 1938. But there was a pretty big export market for Plymouth with lots going to the UK or Commonwealth countries and having the instruments centered might have been a cost saving measure as one less thing that needed to be swapped for right hand drive.
  10. I’ve always just had my old shoes relined. But then again, even when I got my car in the 1970s new or remanufactured brake shoes were not available for it. Find a good, preferably local to you, "brake and friction" company. If there isn’t one then there have been several recommendations in the past on this forum. The next question would be to get them riveted or bonded. I’ve gone with bonded most of the time. Mostly because that is what the shops are used to doing nowadays.
  11. Have you verified that the unit is getting power? If it has power, does it sound like the motor is turning but not moving he wiper arms?
  12. These L-6 engines are dirt simple and much more forgiving than modern engines so it surprises me that you can't find someone willing to work on it. Heck, when young and ignorant with only simple hand tools I was able to do a ring and valve job on my '33 over the space of a couple of weekends. And I did it without removing the engine from the car. It held together just fine for another 20K to 30K miles before I decided to get it rebuilt professionally when I took the car all the way apart for restoration. Ring and valve jobs were pretty standard fare back in the day and well within the skill level of an amateur mechanic. If the diagnosis is correct that it is simply the rings then you might be able to do the same depending on how worn the cylinders are. If on tear down and inspection you find things are not that simple, then you'll find lots of members here have done professional level rebuilds and can give you advise and direct you to resources.
  13. A shorter link to that same listing: https://www.ebay.com/itm/181623623812
  14. The factory service manual says they can be adjusted, if not too far off, by bending the linkage that connects the Bourdon tube (the coiled up flat tube) with the needle.
  15. I don't know how similar it is, but on my '33 there is are saddle shaped pieces that screw onto the top of the firewall and the radiator shell. The hood hinge sits in the saddles then a cover screws down over that to hold it in place. I am out of town but I can take photos when I get home if that would help.
  16. Details like pinstripe location are not as well documented for Plymouth as it is for cars like the Mode A Ford. I barely know where the pinstriping should be on my '33 and enough to know that it depends on body type. While I have seen a '37 that was done, I think, correctly I don't recall the details at all. And the '36 could be different. The best bet would be to contact the Plymouth Owners Club's technical adviser for the model year.
  17. See https://www.ply33.com/Models/P2/#paintcodes Unfortunately I don't have IM codes for the pinstripes, only the color names.
  18. They are not grommets that fit into a groove in the floor with the shaft sliding on them. They are pads that ride up and down with the pedal and when the pedal is up close off the hole on the floor board. As such you have them installed upside down if I am seeing the photo properly.
  19. For the front seat only. Outboard used a body/frame mount bolt. Inboard used large washers under the floor. Not ideal and there are arguments against using the frame but I figured if the accident is bad enough to shear the body off it is all over anyway.
  20. Changed it from one weekend I will be out of town to another that I will also be out of town. Oh, well. I assume there will opportunities in the future for me to attend.
  21. Aside from the issue of cleaning up an old wire well enough that solder will flow on it there is the issue of metal fatigue. The wires in our old car have spent decades being vibrated and in many cases not ideally secured. The end result is that there will be work hardening on the copper strands which will eventually lead to wires failing. I am not against repairs in small areas to get a vehicle back in service. But I strongly suggest that a wholesale replacement of the wiring harness(es) in an antique vehicle is a good idea if you want it to be reliable.
  22. The bypass started in 1934 but was only on the DeLuxe models. Odd that a '35 pump had the square outlet. Maybe it was very early production but I thought all '35 cars had the wider block with the full length water jacket, water distribution tube and half-moon shaped outlet on the water pump.
  23. Way back in the 1970s a defense contractor I worked for used "solder sleeves" for splicing wires in some places. The link to those "waterproof solder wire connectors" look very much like the same thing and they will probably work well. Not doing high volume work and having a large supply of electrical solder and a soldering iron, I usually just make a hand soldered connection. Heat shrink to cover if I have the right diameter on hand otherwise electrical tape works pretty well too. Those do actually provide a soldered joint.
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