Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by TodFitch

  1. TodFitch

    Amtrak questions

    A nice read about crossing the country on Amtrak: https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2019/03/20/magazine/train-across-america-amtrak.html
  2. TodFitch

    Dash Cam

    About 5 years ago I was in a collision with a vehicle that ran a red light. Fortunately I gathered enough information at the scene to prove the other driver was at fault and their insurance covered the repairs to my car. But I realized how close I came to a “he said, she said” situation so I bought a dash cam for my daily driver. As time as marched on, I began to realize that I feel unprotected if I am driving a vehicle without a dash cam so I finally decided to install one in my ’33 Plymouth. I’d already mounted a 6v positive ground to 12v negative ground inverter under the dash to run a cell phone charger and it has a lot more capacity than needed to run a dash camera too. And I had a “hard wire kit” for installing a dash cam taken out of our old car. All I needed was a compatible GPS mount for the dash cam I have in the daily driver. Today I installed that. The first test has the camera aimed a bit low. And YouTube seems to have cropped in an greatly reduced the resolution, but you can see my test at https://youtu.be/RnQhnx1WqpM The original is 1080p and is a lot clearer than the YouTube one.
  3. TodFitch

    Dash Cam

    Might not help if they don't know how little is it worth, but. . . The dash cam I have has a mount that is semi-permanently attached to the windshield with really strong double side foam tape. The GPS version of the mount is a massive $12 if bought separately. The original box for the dash cam had two separate non-GPS mounts, so the cost of those is close to $0. And the way I've got the wires run under the interior trim in both cars that's not visible. The dash cam itself slides off the mount and could easily be brought into the house. The setup takes enough windshield space on the '33 Plymouth that it is noticeable. But on the new car most people don't even notice I have one even if riding in the car as a passenger. Basically the whole system is pretty discrete and the expensive part (a massive $80 to $100 depending on where you buy it) is easily brought into the house.
  4. TodFitch

    Gas Pedal Install - 1947 Dodge

    Don't know about WD40 as petroleum products and old natural rubber are often not a good combination. But I agree that warming it up in warm or hot water and using some soap as a lubricant should work.
  5. TodFitch

    overdrive options question

    Friendly reminder: Offer of items for sale should be either by PM or placed in the classified ads area.
  6. TodFitch

    Stolen business coupe recovered after 20 years

    That is an amazing story. Do you have the drivetrain for it?
  7. TodFitch

    Just Discovered Dyke’s Auto Encyclopedia

    I've had a 1943 copyright version of Dyke's for quite some time. Based on the one I have it seems that Mr. Dyke was not into removing old and outdated information and was a bit slow with adding the newest technology. Most things in my 1940's copy were long out of date for even my '33 vintage car. Quite a lot of information about how cars worked in the early 1900s and into the early 1920s though which can be interesting.
  8. TodFitch

    1947 Vin Number location.

    When I purchased my '33 Plymouth the number on the NY State paperwork was the engine number. Bingo. Post the number on the paperwork, or at least the first few characters/digits. From that we can help tell if the number was an engine number, serial number or something else. One issue that sometimes comes up is it was fairly common for an engine to be replaced without changing the paperwork to show the new engine number.
  9. TodFitch


    '32 (and earlier) Plymouths had an I beam front axle. '33 Plymouths had a tubular front axle '34 PE and PF and independent front suspension, 34 PG had I beam front axle '35-38 All models had I beam front axles '39 and up had independent front suspension
  10. TodFitch


    I'm pretty sure your steering box is different from the one on that thread. I suspect that this will be more useful for you: https://www.ply33.com/Repair/steering
  11. TodFitch


    +1 on this. If you observe the steering parts while someone moves the steering wheel back and forth you should be able to see areas where there are slop. Since the box has been rebuilt and new "ball joints" (I assume tie rod ends) have been fitted I assume the wear must be elsewhere. King pins can be a big contributor to this. Also, the '33 had a pretty thin walled drag link and the key shaped area were the pitman arm from the steering box goes in is often very worn and will definitely cause this issue. Rare Parts has a replacement drag link made of a bit heavier weight material than the original which I highly recommend. For '33 the box is directly bolted to the frame, no rubber isolators to get squished. However, it occurs to me that the rebuilt box may not have been adjusted, so you may want to check that too.
  12. TodFitch

    Fuel Milage

    For any given level of technology you can trade off fuel economy and performance. And on the performance side you can trade off acceleration and vehicle weight. It is my observation that US manufacturers were happy with building cars that delivered between 12 and 20 MPG from about 1925 until the 1970s fuel crisis. So the average driver in the average car got 14 to 16 or so. A performance oriented driver, especially in a bigger heavier car got closer to 12. And an driver with a bent toward economy in a smaller car might touch 20 but would more likely be around 18. Didn't seem to matter the make, model or manufacturer, those number seemed to be industry wide. I think that all the improvements in engine design were used to increase performance and/or passenger comfort rather than increase the efficiency (MPG) of the cars built.
  13. TodFitch

    title issues

    More likely that the state registered with the year when it first sold.
  14. TodFitch

    Dissecting Vin #

    Concur with Plymouthy's reply. You may want to look at my serial number/VIN web page. The "calculator" on the top right will show the plant your car was assembled in and about how far through the production run it was.
  15. TodFitch

    1954 Plymouth Suburban Project

    Parts offered must be via PM or in the classifieds.
  16. TodFitch

    Scammed today

    Because I'm frugal and fairly technically adept, I moved our "land line" to Voice Over IP (VoIP) many years ago. Our house phone bill averages about $6/mo which is cheaper than the $20/mo AT&T were getting from from us ten years ago before we switched. One of the benefits of the VoIP provider I use is that they have "call treatments" I can setup. It would make it trivial to arrange things so only people in my address book can actually call the number. I don't actually go that far, but if you are not in my address book you will get what my provider calls a "telemarketer block": You get a voice prompt to dial a number to continue. Turns out the automated dialers don't (yet) know how to listen to and follow instructions so they don't get through.
  17. Reminder: Offers for sale need to be in the classified area or if directed to a particular person via PM.
  18. 1-5-3-6-2-4 Should be in the reference section of this website and in any shop manual.
  19. TodFitch

    Interesting photos I have run across.

    Sometimes the moderator doesn't recognize things right away. . .
  20. TodFitch

    online parts manual?

    The one Chet had on his website was the 1936-48 Plymouth Master Parts book published by Chrysler. Each section was a separate PDF. I don't know if I didn't bother downloading or if Chet did not have it on the site, but the front cover and intro pages on my copy are missing and that is where any copyright information would have been located. So I can't tell you what the copyright status is.
  21. TodFitch

    online parts manual?

    Makes me glad that I printed and bound a copy of all those PDFs a number of years ago. Alas, I did not keep copies of the PDF files themselves so I can't make them available to you. Chet is, or at least was until very recently, relatively active on posting progress on the restoration of his four cylinder Plymouth with posts on the (almost morbid) forum at https://www.plymouthowners.club/talk/index.php so you might be able to contact him for access to the files. In the meantime I assume you are asking about part type code 23-06-10 "Glove Box DOOR Ass'y". Looks like the P14 used part 998979. The P15 (except Conv. Cpe.) used 1152459, the P15 Conv. Cpe. used part 1152325. I suspect that you are wondering if the parts are interchangeable. I don't think the parts book will tell you that as any difference in trim or finish will result in a different part number even if the physical size, shape, hinge, latch mechanism, etc. are all the same. For that information you will probably have to rely on information from people who've looked closely at both.
  22. TodFitch

    1950 Plymouth Suburban - Jay Leno's Garage

    Stating that a 1950 Plymouth Suburban was the first all steel station wagon is, according to you, a "factiod". As a point of fact/factlet/point of trivia it is apparently wrong. A factoid is a false statement presented as a fact, it was coined by Norman Mailer to describe things that people treat as facts but are actually false. The "oid" ending gives it away (asteroid is like a star (appears in the night sky like a star) but not a star, humaniod is like a human but not a human, etc.).
  23. TodFitch

    Dodge 230 6 cyl valve order

    "Ironhead"? First I recall hearing that term. Intake are siamesed (one port for two cylinders), each exhaust has its own port (for better cooling).
  24. TodFitch

    fluid drive downshifts

    I probably ought to simply delete this post and the others that reference it: Parts dealing should be in the classified ad area or by PM.
  25. Hate to admit it, but "been there, done that" on an early drive after I got the '33 all back together. I don't recall any noise leading up to the event though. Fortunately for me, it happened at very low speed and there was no body damage done.

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use